Incidents of a whaling voyage : to which are added observations on the scenery, manners and customs, and missionary stations of the Sandwich and Society Islands

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INCIDENTS

OF A.

WHALING VOYAGE.

TO WHICH ARE ADDED OBSERVATIONS ON THE

SCENERY, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, AND MIS-
SIONARY STATIONS,

OF THE

Sattfctofcfi anto Socfctg Xslantos,

ACCOMPANIED BY NUMEROUS LITHOGRAPHIC PRINTS.

BY FRANCIS ALLYN OLMSTED.

NEW-YORK:

PUBLISHED BY D. APPLETON AND CO.

1841.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, iti the year 18-1], by

FRANCIS ALLYN OLMSTED,

In the Clerk's Oiliee of the District Court of Connecticut.

PREFACE.

During the latter part of my collegiate course, my
health became very much impaired by a chronic
debility of the nervous system, and soon after grad-
uating, the cold air of Autumn admonished me to
seek a milder clime for spending the winter. While
deliberating upon what would be most desirable in
accomplishing the purposes I had in view, a favora-
ble opportunity was offered me to go out as pas-
senger in the whale-ship "North America," which
was fitting out at New-London for a voyage to
the Pacific. From an erroneous prejudice against
whalers, it was with great reluctance that I deter-
mined upon embarking on this voyage, and many
of my friends made sage predictions of the wretch-
ed life to which I was consigning myself. A strong
inclination for the sea, however, which had made

IV PREFACE.

ships and the ocean my admiration from boyhood,
and a love of the adventurous, inclined me to a
voyage in preference to any other plan for the re-
covery of my health ; and its successful results have
left me no reason to repent of my choice.

With the exception of the interesting work by
Beale, entitled " The Sperm Whale Fishery," I am
not aware that any representations of whaling life
have been exhibited proportionate to its adventurous
character and importance. Entertaining sketches of
the capture of the whale, have been written at dif-
ferent times ; but they are generally the productions
of those who were not spectators of the scenes they
attempt to delineate, and must, of course, be want-
ing in accuracy. I have endeavored to represent
sea-life as it is; and should the reader, impatient to
enter in medias res, think me tedious in getting under
way, I have only to plead that the facts were so; and
similar delays and vexations are believed to consti-
tute a very ordinary part of sea-life. It has also
been my constant endeavor throughout the narrative,
to make a candid representation of occurrences, al-
though I do not aspire to infallibility.

Some parts of my narrative may appear to be
wanting in exciting incident. My object has indeed
been, to represent life in a somewhat novel aspect,
but not by a sacrifice of truth or by an exaggerated
picture. The common incidents of life, in their or-

PREFACE. V

dinary course, rarely exhibit much of the marvellous,
and it is from the reality of their occurrence, in a
great measure, that they excite permanent pleasure.
A Marryatt, by weaving together the events of sev-
eral voyages, and coloring the tissue with all the
vividness of a lively imagination, gives to his sea
sketches a brilliancy which a strict adherence to the
common course of events would have denied him.

The pictorial illustrations are selections from fifty
or sixty sketches representing objects of natural his-
tory, and scenes that interested me, taken originally
in the sketch book I always carried with me, and
finished off afterwards, as soon as possible. The
great expense of these illustrations, forbids the intro-
duction of a larger number into the work ; for the
size of a work gives it a determinate price, from
which even the most expensive illustrations will not
admit of very great deviation, although embellish-
ments of this kind are often as essential in forming
a correct idea of a scene, as the printed page itself.
Frequently indeed, they are of greater importance ;
for a single glance at a correct picture gives a far
more vivid idea of a scene, than the most elaborate
description.

Some of the statistics of the Whale Fishery, were
gathered after my return, and have reference to a
date subsequent to that of the journal where they
are introduced. This arrangement, although censu-

VI PREFACE.

rable as an anachronism, is not deemed inconsistent
with the nature of the work, and is thought prefera-
ble to multiplied notes.

In conclusion, I have endeavored to represent the
sailor in a favorable light, and to excite the kindness
and sympathy of the benevolent in his behalf. If
my efforts have been successful, and shall contribute
to secure to the whaling business, that share of re-
spectability which has been withheld from it through
ignorance and prejudice, I shall esteem myself happy.
New-Haven, August, 1841.

One so young, and so little known to the public as the author,
may, it is hoped, be permitted to annex the following certificate
from Messrs. Havens & Smith, Hon. Thomas W. Williams, M. C,
and Francis Allyn, Esq., Mayor of the city of New-London, to
whom he had submitted his manuscript. Captain Smith is an
experienced whaler, and has often visited the regions described
in this work.

New-London, Mat 5th, 1841.
Mr. F. A. Olmsted having submitted to our examination parts
of his manuscript journal of a voyage in our ship " North Ameri-
ca," in 1839 and '40, we take pleasure in testifying to the correct-
ness of his descriptions of the Sperm Whale Fishery and the ac-
companying plates, and we think he has the materials for an
interesting work.

HAVENS & SMITH.

We concur in the above opinion.

TH. W. WILLIAMS.
FRANCIS ALLYN.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

Voyage to the Azores. — Embarkation — Man overboard — Super-
stition of Seamen in respect to sailing on Friday — Discourage-
ment at the commencement of the voyage — Description of a
whale-boat and its appurtenances — Larboard and starboard
watches — First aspect of the ocean — Gulf stream — A gale — Suf-
ferings of an invalid on shipboard — Rainbows. - - Page 11

CHAPTER II.
Fayal. — Arrival at Fayal — Appearance of the island — Situation of
the town — Fortifications — Burdens carried by porters - Streets and
buildings —Costumes of the different classes — Ladies of Fayal —
Consul's gardens -Manufacture and exportation of wine —Casual-
ties incident to the life of a whaler — Dinner at the Consul's —
Supplies laid in at Fayal —Departure —Lunar bow. - 27

CHAPTER III.
Ship and Shipmates. — Ship North America — Government aboard
ship— Method of ascertaining the Latitude and Longitude — Ec-
centricities of the cook — Amusementsof the fore-castle - Etiquette
on board ship — Employments of the crew — Description of the
several parts of the ship, and peculiarities in the construction of a
whaler— Order and contentment of the crew — Library — Flying
fish. 41

CHAPTER IV.
Whaling Scenes. — Attack and capture of whales — General appear-
ance of the sperm whale— Great size of the respiratory organs
and vascular system —Sympathy of cetaceous animals for each
other — Inaccurate representations of the whale — Nature of blub-
ber— " Cutting in " — Perils attending the process — Spermaceti —
"Trying out." 56

CHAPTER V.
Crossing the Line. — Disagreeable and cruel tricks formerly prac-
tised on the "Green Horn"- Ceremonies of initiation into the
mysteries of Neptune — Novel and interesting aspect of the starry
heavens in another hemisphere -Delightful weather — Phospho-
rescence of the sea. ....... 69

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.
Cruise in the South Atlantic— Fall in with the " Messenger" of
New-Bedford— Sickness on board this ship — Medical practice of
sea-captains— Fall in with the "William and Eliza"— Social
habits of whalers— Whaling Scenes — Versatility of talent requi-
site for an accomplished seaman— Dress and manners of the crew
— Mr. Freeman's soirees— Annoyances on ship-board — Christmas
— Mechanical employments of the men. - - - -74

CHAPTER VII.
Approach to Cape Horn.— Gale of wind — Game of these seas — The
porpoise— Turtle— Pilot fish— Squally weather— Preparations for
doubling Cape Horn — Novel aspect of the diurnal revolutions, and
of the celestial bodies in these high latitudes — Capture of Al-
batrosses—Preparations for the Cape. 90

CHAPTER VIII.
Cape Horn. — Terra del Fuego — Pa tagonians— Straits of Magellan
— Geographical position of Cape Horn — Dangers and difficulties
of doubling the Cape — Capricious state of the elements — Huge
Sperm Whale— The carrier albatross— Perils of Whaling— Sail-
or's songs. 106

CHAPTER IX.
Hunting and fishing scenes. — Ambrose Island— Immense flocks of
birds — Great fishing— Capture of a fur seal— Sea birds — Capture
of a black fish — Boat carried down by a whale. - - - 117

CHAPTER X.
The whale fishery. — Early history of the whale fishery — Original
method of attacking whales — Modem improvements in whaling
— Implements— Enterprise of our ancestors in this line— Intrepid-
ity of whalers — Discoveries in distant regions — Benefits conferred
by them on the Polynesian colonies and missionary establish-
ments— Character of whalers, officers and crew. - - - 121

CHAPTER XI.
Varieties of the whale. — The Sperm Whale— Spermaceti — Am-
bergris—Right Whale — Size— Food — Fin-back Whale— Difficul-
ty of capture— Hump-back Whale — Conflicts of Whales with
one another— Loss of the Whaler "Essex." - 134

CHAPTER XII.
Amusements and mode of life on shd?board. — Fishing — Mechani-
cal employments — Bill of fare. 146

CHAPTER XIII.
Cruise in the Pacific — Perilous incidents of a whaler's life — Black-
fish, capture, description, and habits — Squid or cuttle fish — Large
schools of sperm whales — Terrific approach to the ship— Laws
of whaling among the craft — Turtles — Brilliant phosphorescence.

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER XIV.

Visit to Tacames. — Situation of Tacames— Interesting appearance

of the vegetable kingdom — Tropical fruits — Landing in the surf—

Density of the forests— An incident— Phosphorescence of fish after

death— Carousals on shore. »161

CHAPTER XV.
Voyage to the Sandwich Islands. — The Gallapagos Islands —
Narrow escape from shipwreck— Steer for the Society Islands —
Capture of a large whale— Mother Carey's chickens — Peaked-
nose shark — Leaky condition of the ship— Steer for the Sand-
wich Islands— Trade winds— Arrival at Oahu. - - 175

CHAPTER XVI.

Sandwich Islands. — Seamen's chapel — Honolulu harbor — Fruits
and vegetables — Appearance of the natives — Native dwellings —
Police regulations — Fort — Governor Kekuanoa— Capt. Brown —
Foreign residents — Horses and vehicles. * 189

CHAPTER XVII.
Sandwich Islands. — Valley of Nuanu— Taro Poi — Natives at work
— Aquatic feats — An affecting incident— Native canoes — Com-
merce of the Hawaiian Islands — Moving a house — Treatment of
a lunatic— Native salutation — Chinese — Annoyances — Scorpions
—Centipedes. 202

CHAPTER XVIII.
Excursion to Hawaii. — Brig " Clementine" — Romish priests —
Accommodations on board — Kailua — Governor Adams — Style
of his house — Cavern — Natives playing in the surf— Native
church — Manufactory — lodgings — Escape from shipwreck —
Shark catchers— To waihae — Walk to Waimea — Spanish bullock
hunters — Mr. Lyons, missionary— Bullock hunting — Fate of Mr.
Douglas—Spanish saddle— Return to Honolulu. - - 216

CHAPTER XIX.
Sandwich Islands. — Farewell to the North America — Whaleship
Catharine — Objects of a consulate — Kauikeaouli, the king —
Mission families at Honolulu. ----- 237

CHAPTER XX.
Sandwich Islands. — Geography — Fertility — Climate— Ancient Ta-
bu system — Idolatry— Oppression of the chiefs— Arrival of mis-
sionaries—Discouragements— Success — Churches at Honolulu —
Schools— Hawaiian Institute — Supremacy of law — Depopula-
tion. - - - 245

CHAPTER XXI.
Voyage to Tahiti. — Embarkation — Passengers— An incident —
Calm latitudes— Poisonous fish. 264

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXII.
Tahiti.— Arrival at Tahiti— Papeete Bay— British Consulate-
American whale ships — Natives— Capt. Upham — United States-
Consul— Disaster at Tongatabu. 271

CHAPTER XXIII.
Tahiti. — Difference of time— Natives— Tongatabu — Queen Pomare
— Pomare-tane — Tahitian soldiers— Display —Church — Palace
— Seamen's chapel. - - - - - - - 280

CHAPTER XXIV.
Tahiti. — Police — Coral — Fishing by Torchlight — Diseases — An-
noyances -Moonlight at Papeete - Shaving the head — Native
costume — Novel engineering - Climbing the cocoa-nut tree. 291

CHAPTER XXV.
Tahiti. — Fruits — Cocoa-nut oil— Sugar — Guava — Bread-fruit —
Tide. 303

CHAPTER XXVI.
The South Pacific — Retrospect of Tahiti — Additional passengers
— Accident — Snow — Iceberg — Religion of sailors — Bird-catch-
ing. • 312

CHAPTER XXVII.
The South Atlantic. — A merchant ship — Long-boat — Crew —
Gale — Porpoise — Pampero — Dolphin — Waterspout — Protract-
ed head-winds — Ominous character of the Flora — Employment
of time. 324

CHAPTER XXVIII.
The South Atlantic — Stores of the Flora — Pernambuco —
Harbor. 338

CHAPTER XXIX.
Pernambuco. — Katamarans - Churches — Splendor — Appearance
of the population Architecture — Fireworks — Supplies purchas-
ed— Cross the equator. 344

CHAPTER XXX.
Home. — Bathing — Sailor's fare— Cape Hatteras — "Land ho!" —
Anchor at Sandy Hook. 356

INCIDENTS OF A WHALING VOYAGE,

CHAPTER I.

VOYAGE TO THE AZORES.

Embarkation— Man overboard — Superstition of seamen in
pect to sailing on friday — discouragements at the commence-
ment of the voyage — description of a whale-boat and its
appurtenances — larboard and starroard watches — flrst as-
pect of the ocean — gulf stream — a gale — sufferings of an
invalid on shipboard — rainbows.

Friday, Oct. 11, 1839.— Early this morning, the rat-
tling of blocks and riggringf, and the animating cries of
the seamen, announced that the North America was get-
ting under way ; and soon the barque with her swel-
ling sails distended by a gentle breeze, swung from her
moorings. The wind was fair, and as we glided out of
the beautiful harbor of New-London, the clear air of the
morning, the favoring breeze, and the bright sun mir-
rored in a thousand tiny waves, soon dispelled the gloom
of parting from those 1 loved, and even inspired me with
renovated spirits. The band of the Revenue Cutter
was going through its morning exercises, and I listened
to the national "airs it was performing, until growing
fainter and fainter, they were lost in the distance. A
new feeling of patriotism was awakened within me ;
and these simple strains, that on ordinary occasions,
would scarcely have been heeded, were now associated
with many endearing recollections, and invested with a
melody and sentiment I had never before discerned in

•

12 VOYAGE TO THE AZORES.

them. Month after month will perhaps have rolled over
me, ere I shall again hear the inspiring strains of "Hail
Columbia, happy land," in my own favored country to
which I am now bidding adieu — it may be forever. But
from these painful suggestions that now and then strug-
gled to obtain possession of my mind, I turned with in-
terest to the scenes as they opened before me in my new
habitation, the first aspect of which was not the most fa-
vorable.

The North America is a Temperance ship; that is,
no ardent spirits are served out to the men on any occa-
sion. This, however, does not preclude them from be-
coming intoxicated whenever an opportunity presents
itself, which two or three of them, judging from appear-
ances, would not be very reluctant to embrace. The
prospect of a voyage of three or four years in length is
an incentive to greater excess, while intoxicating liquors
can be purchased to drown the unpleasant anticipations
incident to so long a separation from country and kin-
dred.

Inebriety is by no means as prevalent among sea-far-
ing people as was formerly the case, since the abandon-
ment of the idea that intoxicating drinks were indispen-
sable to the sailor. It has been within a few years only
that the plan of sailing ships upon temperance principles,
has come into extensive use ; before this, if a master of a
ship, in visiting another, declined a glass of spirits, his
refusal was regarded as an insult. Soon after the com-
mencement of the temperance reform, Major Williams,
of New-London, determined to lend the weight of his
extensive influence in promoting temperance aboard the
whale-ships sailing out of this port, in which he was
interested. His exertions, although meeting with great
opposition at first, were successful — other influential men

MAN OVERBOARD. 13

followed his example — and now, out of the thirty or
forty whaling vessels belonging to the port of New-Lon-
don, almost all are navigated upon temperance princi-
ples. To the credit of the American Whale Fishery, it
ought to be added, that the proportion of vessels of this
character, is much greater in this service than in any
other department of our marine.

This afternoon, as I was standing at the starboard
gangway, watching the progress of the ship through the
water, a sailor passed by me, and letting himself down
the side of the ship by the chains, very deliberately threw
himself overboard, and commenced swimming towards
land, then distant three or four miles.

" Man overboard ! — man overboard !" resounded from
every part of the ship — a boat was lowered, manned,
and put oif to rescue him from a certain death. He
swam very well, however, although encumbered with
heavy woolen clothes, but was soon overtaken, hauled
into the boat, and held down as he endeavored to
plunge into the sea again. After a change of clothes,
he was put into his berth, with some one to watch him,
lest he should make another attempt to leave the ship.
This man is a boat-steerer, (a grade of petty officers
aboard a whaler, about whom I shall speak more partic-
ularly by-and-by) and a first-rate seaman, who had
been to sea all his life-time, and had seen all kinds of
service. For a week or two before the sailing of the
North America, he was constantly intoxicated, and this
insane attempt to leave the ship, was owing to the mad-
dening and stupefying effects of constant inebriety.*

* He afterwards became a very good friend of mine, and gave me a variety
of information about ships, and "spun me many a yarn" of his adven-
tures at sea.

ill

14 VOYAGE TO THE AZORES. ^ .

The wind, which during the day, hardly moved
the ship through the water, as evening came on, veer-
ed ahead. A head tide also, opposed our progress, and
as the sky towards the south-east looked lowering,
with some indications of a gale, it was thought advisa-
ble to return. The ship's head was soon pointing to-
wards New-London, distant about twelve miles, and we
came to anchor two or three miles from the shore, where
we lay during the night. Early on Saturday morning,
as the wind continued to increase from the south-east,
we hauled in opposite the light-house.

Sunday, Oct. 13. Soon after the ship was moored,
yesterday, I went ashore with Captain Richards and the
pilot, where we remained until this morning, when at an
early hour we were summoned on board ship, as the
weather seemed favorable for going to sea. But our ex-
pectations are disappointed, and here we lie without
breeze enough to carry us out, while a damp atmosphere
and cloudy sky, render our situation extremely dismal.
It is the Sabbath too, and while the solemn tones of the
distant church-bell should awaken emotions befitting the
day, our own unpleasant situation engrosses all our at-
tention ; and instead of occupying our minds with the
solemn duties of the Sabbath, we are watching the clouds
for indications of fair weather.

Monday, Oct. 14. " Boat-ahoy," hailed the officer of
the deck, as a boat was seen coming down to us, rowed
by two boys, carrying a large bag in the bow of their tiny
craft, intended for the ship. We were endeavoring to
divine the contents of it, which were supposed to be of a
highiy valuable character, from the important air exhib-
ited by the boys. The bag was hoisted upon deck and
opened, when out jumped an old cat and her numerous
progeny, that ran squalling around the deck to our sur-

tm

UPERSTITION OF SEAMEN. 15

prise and diversion. Cats are consequential personages
on board, as they protect us from the depredations of
huge cock-roaches that swarm in every direction. I
found one of these erratic black-legs the other day, up in
the main-top, wandering about very much at his leisure.
Capt. R., a few days ago, in speaking of the good quali-
ties of the North America, said that " she was built en-
tirely of live oak," which subsequent observations have
fully verified !

Last evening, the clouds for a short time dispersed,
and the stars and the moon beaming forth, seemed to
promise a favorable change in the weather. Not long
after, however, the sky was again overcast, and before
morning, an easterly storm came pattering down upon
deck, with the gloomy prospect of another dismal day.
If I had not started with a good resolution to be discon-
certed by nothing that might happen, I should by this
time have been tempted to give up an enterprise so in-
auspiciously begun. " So much for sailing on Friday,"
an old salt would say. There has been a singular super-
stition prevalent among seamen about sailing on Friday;
and in former times, to sail on this day, would have been
regarded as a violation of the mysterious character of the
day, which would be visited with disaster upon the of-
fender. Even now it is not entirely abandoned ; and if
a voyage, commenced on Friday, happens to be unfortu-
nate, all the ill-luck of the voyage is ascribed to having
sailed on this day. An intelligent ship-master told me,
that although he had no faith in this superstition, yet so
firmly were sailors formerly impressed with superstitious
notions, respecting this day, that until within a few years,
he should never have ventured to sail on Friday, for the
men would be appalled by dangers which they would
think, lightly of on common occasions, and their efforts

16 VOYAGE TO THE AZORES,

would be paralyzed by their imaginary fears of being
under a mysterious and malignant influence. I have
been told, that several years ago, a ship was built and
sent to sea, to test this superstition, and convince the craft
of its folly. The keel of the ship was laid on Friday ;
on Friday her masts were set ; she was completed on
Friday, and launched on this day. Her name was
" Friday," and she was sent to sea on Friday ; but un-
fortunately for the success of the experiment, was never
heard of more.

i As knowledge advances, all opinions not consonant
with reason must be abandoned, and this superstition is
fast losing its hold on the minds of sea-faring men, espe-
cially since the establishment of the packet lines, and the
frequent necessity of sailing on Friday. It had its ori-
gin, I am told, in the ancient custom of executing crimi-
nals upon this day, which imparted to it an unlucky
character. I have also heard it ascribed to a connection
with some of the observances of the Roman Catholic
Church, which entertains some peculiar notions with re-
gard to this day.

Tuesday r, Oct. 15. Rain — rain — rain — with a raw
wind from the north-east — cold and cheerless on deck —
damp and dismal in the cabin. For our encouragement,
the barometer, which for the last three days has been
continually falling, is now rising, indicative of fair wea-
ther.

This morning, hearing an unusual noise upon deck,
I ran up the companion-way, and, at the distance of
thirty or forty yards from the ship, saw one of the men
making desperate efforts to reach the shore by swim-
ming. One of the boats had just been lowered — pursuit
was instantly made, and the man with but little resis-
tance, was secured and brought on board, crest-fallen

DISCOURAGEMENTS. 17

enough, in his dripping clothes, with his shoes tied
around his neck. " Come here," said the commanding
officer, (the second mate) in an authoritative tone.
" Well, you were going to leave us in the lurch, were

you?" "Why sir, Mr. L (the first mate, who was

on shore) told me I might go ashore with him, and he
went off without me." "And so you thought you'd
work to windward of us in this way, eh ?" " Why sir,
1 thought he didn't do what was right." " You thought ?
Well, I'll tell you what / think, and I'll inform you in
the most delicate manner, that if you show any more of
such fandangos here, you'll be clapped down into the
lower hold, sir, with some irons around your wrists, that
don't look quite so pretty as ladies' bracelets neither —
bear that in mind, and be off, sir."

The crew, though very quiet in general, are begin-
ning to show signs of impatience, and if there are no in-
dications of fair weather at sunset, an attempt will un-
doubtedly be made to desert during the night. With
the few exceptions I mentioned before, they are very
temperate, and 1 have heard but little bad language or
profanity on board, both of which are prohibited by the
Captain.

Capt. R. left us last Sunday evening, and has not
yet returned. I should have accompanied him up to
town, were it not that I had already bidden my friends
" good-bye" three times, and did not like to impair the
virtue of the " Farewell " by repetition.

Wednesday ; Oct. 16. Yesterday afternoon the clouds
began to break away, and the sun shone forth to glad-
den us after a long absence of his cheering beams. The
moon, too, favored us last evening with her kindly ra-
diance, and long I paced the deck, musing on the real-
ity of the enterprise in which I had* embarked. When

18 VOYAGE TO THE AZORES.

we are preparing for a long voyage, we talk of separation
from home, kindred, and country with a kind of vague-
ness as if it would never be realized ; but when we have
actually embarked, and there is no return, then the reality
comes vividly to mind, and impresses us with the mag-
nitude of the enterprise ; while the uncertainties of the
future forbid our anticipating its termination. The
future to me is more than ordinarily uncertain. To
picture to myself my various wanderings over the mighty
ocean, in accommodating myself to the erratic life I have
now chosen, and after leaving my present shipmates to
trace out my circuitous course back to my native land, is
beyond the reach of mortal ken and were a vain attempt.
And there are solemn musings too. Ere I return, the
irrevocable hand of death may invade the home of my
youth and the circle of kindred friends, and consign
one or more to the grave ! Ah ! these are the saddest
thoughts, that press like an incubus upon the spirits of
the voyager as he leaves his native shores.

Early this morning, the Captain came on board, and
soon we " hove short" — the sails were loosed — the top-
sails sheeted home — the anchor weighed and catted, and
we were standing out of our anchorage. It was a
lovely morning. The sun just emerging behind the
long line of hills that bound the eastern side of New
London harbor, was fringed with the light fog that floated
down the river, tinged with his golden rays. With the
light wind that fanned our sails, we glided slowly along
over the smooth waters of the sound, and by noon, having
passed through "the Race,"* were directing our course
towards Montauk Point.

* That part of Long Island Sound between Fisher's Island and Gall Island,
is called " the race," on account of the velocity of the tides between these
islands.

WHALE-BOAT. 19

Thursday, Oct* 17. The wind has been light and
baffling since yesterday. This noon there was a perfect
calm, and upon the eighth day from the date of our first
setting sail from New London, we find ourselves at
anchor off' Montauk point, to prevent being drifted ashore,
instead of tossing about upon the Atlantic one third of
the way across*

All bands have been engaged in various duties about
the ship, such as overhauling the spare canvass, and
stowing away articles more compactly. The boats too,
have been put in complete order, to be in readiness for
the first opportunity that presents itself for using them,
and although it may be a deviation from the plan I have
adopted, I cannot do better, perhaps, than to describe
the whaleboat and its various appurtenances.

The whaleboat is a narrow, light built boat of about
twenty-five feet in length, sharp at both ends, with its
sides gracefully curved and running up to a point fore
and aft, and from its construction, is expressly adapted
to great velocity of motion and safety among the swelling
billows of the ocean. Unlike most ship's boats, it is
clinker built, as this peculiar mode of construction is
called, i. e. the thin boards that cover the ribs overlap
one another, thus giving strength to the boat and ena-
bling it to be made much lighter. Each boat is fitted
with six oars of various lengths. The steering oar,
usually from twenty to twenty two feet long, is confined
to the boat by a strap passing around it and attached to
the stern post. This gives the helmsman great power
over the movement of the boat far superior to the steer-
ing with a rudder.

The thole pins, between which the oars are plied, are
covered with matting, so as to prevent any noise in the

20 VOYAGE TO THE AZORES.

motion of the oars. Of the offensive weapons, the har-
poon is the most important.

t="

SPADE,

<a i -Q^tiv^-^-

HARPOON,

The harpoon is an iron instrument, about four feet in
length, terminated at one end, in a sharp barbed head,
and at the other, in a socket for receiving the "iron
pole," a heavy wooden handle of about equal length,
which gives to the instrument great momentum. A
strap with a turn around the socket of the iron secures
it upon the pole. To the strap is attached the line, a
strong rope about two hundred fathoms long, which is
carefully coiled up in a tub placed in the afterpart of the
boat ; and going around the " loggerhead," a strong post
projecting above the stern, passes through a "chock" or
grove in the bow of the boat, and is " bent on " to the
harpoon. Each boat usually carries four or five har-
poons, two of which are always ready for immediate use
when the boat is in pursuit of whales. Their barbed
heads lie across the bow of the boat, with their shafts
resting upon two * crotches," or spurs, standing out from
a stick rising from the side of the boat. This position
gives steadiness to the weapon, and it is close at hand
whenever opportunity offers for using it.

MODE OP ATTACK. 21

The lance is two or three feet longer than the har-
poon. Its head is of an oval shape, pointed with steel,
and its shaft is long and slender, with the "warp" a
small line about eight fathoms long, attached to the ex-
tremity of it.

The spade is a short instrument, with a thin, wide
blade set upon a light shaft of five or six feet in length.

These instruments are ground to a very keen edge,
and kept constantly bright. Their sharp heads are en-
closed in sheaths, to defend them from injury, as also to
prevent their doing any mischief. A hatchet,' a couple
of knives, a water-keg, a lantern, and a boat compass,
together with one or more buckets, complete the equip-
ment of a boat.

Six men constitute a boat's complement. Of these,
the captain or one of his mates is one, who directs the
attack upon the whale. There is also a subordinate of-
ficer called boat-stecrer, who performs the duties of a
cockswain, taking care of the boat with its appurtenan-
ces. To each man is assigned an oar and a station in
the boat, to avoid any confusion when starting in pur-
suit of a whale.

In attacking the whale, the captain or one of his offi-
cers takes the steering oar, and directs the boat in the
onset. The boatsteerer pulls the short oar in the bow
of the boat, and at a signal or command from the officer,
draws in his oar, and taking his stand firmly in the bow,
when the word is given, darts the harpoon with all his
strength into the whale. Sometimes he is so successful
as to fix both irons, which generally ensures the capture
of the struggling monster. He now exchanges places
with the officer, and takes the steering oar, while the
latter comes forward to thrust the lance into the vitals
of the whale whenever he comes up to blow, a feat re-

22 VOYAGE TOT HE AZORES.

quiring no ordinary dexterity. The moment the whale
begins to slacken the line to which he is « fast," it is
hauled in, and coiled up carefully in the tub, while the
boat is drawn towards the whale, as he comes on top
of water, when he receives several thrusts of the lance
in succession, which often enters to the depth of several
feet. When the animal is very violent in his move-
ments, a few strokes of the spade across the sinews of
his flukes, disable these his most powerful weapon of
defence and motion. The line is confined to the grove
in the bow of the boat by a wooden peg, which breaks
in case the line becomes entangled, thus averting the ex-
treme danger of being instantly carried down.

Thus much for the description of the whale-boat at
present, which in grace and velocity of motion, is not
excelled by any ship's boat.

On board of all vessels, the men are separated into
two divisions, called the larboard and starboard watches.
The first and third mates command the larboard watch,
and the second mate commands the starboard watch.
This morning, the crew were all summoned upon the
quarter deck, and the first and second mate selected alter-
nately, the members of their respective watches. The
Captain and each of the officers, in a similar manner, in
the order of rank, then made choice of the required
number for the boat he commanded.

Friday, Oct. 18. Last evening the ship was again
under way, and at sunrise this morning, land was no
where visible. There was scarcely breeze enough to
steady the ship, while as far as the eye could reach, not
an object presented itself to break the monotony of the
ocean with its ceaseless undulations, or to impair the
emotions of sublimity with which vastness of extent im-
pressed me, as I scanned with eager eye, the uninter-

ASaUALL. 23

rupted curve of the horizon. The open ocean is rarely
calrcij such as we see in the waters of our lakes and riv-
ers. Even in its stillest moments, when not a breath of
air agitates it, its surface is perpetually heaving as if
with some internal commotion. For the fathomless wa-
ters of the ocean acquire such a momentum when the
storm comes over their depths, that even when the winds
are hushed, they do not soon subside.

Tuesday, Nov. 5. In resuming the thread of my nar-
rative, which has been interrupted for more than two
weeks, I cannot do better perhaps than to commence
from my last date, and endeavor to give a slight sketch
of what has befallen me in the meantime.

On Saturday, Oct. 19, towards evening, the rain began
to fall in frequent showers from the South. About 11
o'clock that night, I was roused from my slumbers by
the rolling of boxes in the cabin, and the crash of the
steward's crockery in the pantry, the howling of the
wind and the loud tone of command from the officer on
deck. " Tumble aft — tumble aft here every one of you.
Let go your top-gallant halliards fore and aft — clew up
— mind your helm — keep her off before it — main-tack
and sheet let go — clew him up, clew him up — jump, for
your lives, men — top-sail halliards let go— one of you
give 'em a call there in the forecastle and steerage."
"All hands a-hoy," just heard above the roar of the
winds, summoned the larboard watch on deck, as we
sprang up the companion-way to ascertain the cause of
the sudden alarm. We had been moving along under
easy sail, when upon nearing the gulf stream, a heavy
squall struck us from the west. The top-gallant sails
and top-sails had been settled down, while the main
course was flapping about with a noise like thunder.

In a short time, however, all the sails were snugly

24 VOYAGE TO THE AZORES.

furled, with the exception of a close-reefed main-top-sail
and fore-sail, under which we drove before the gale that
pursued us across the gulf stream. The next day (Sun-
day) a sea struck our larboard quarter boat, and dashed
her to pieces, — a bad omen for the commencement of
the voyage. We have since had another boat stove by
the violence of the sea, which dashes in very frequently
across the waist of the ship.

I had brought a thermometer with me for the particu-
lar purpose of ascertaining the temperature of the water
in the gulf stream ; but the violence of the sea put an
end to all philosophical speculations. I was informed,
however, by those that were drenched by the spray, that
the water was very warm.*

The air, too, was mild, unlike the storms we have at
home in the month of October, in this respect. Indeed,
the temperature of the ocean air off soundings, is always
much higher than that of the land in the same latitudes,
out of the tropics in the cool season of the year. For
the three weeks, during which we have been at sea, we
have had no weather cold enough for an overcoat, ex-
cept at night, although at home, I presume, anthracite
fires are glowing to repel the first approaches of winter.

In a day or two we had crossed the gulf stream, and
were promising ourselves a delightful run to the Azores,
when the wind came around ahead from the eastward,
where it continued for eleven days without alteration.
At one time we ran down as far as the Bermudas, and
were admonished to alter our course by the frequent
squalls that assailed us.

During the stormy weather in the gulf stream, I con-
fined myself to my berth, as the most comfortable place

* Its known temperature in this latitude is about 72 deg.

THE INVALID AT SEA. 25

I could find, and with bundles on each side of me, en-
deavored to keep myself from rolling about. The mo-
tion of the vessel, and the intolerable smell of bilge wa-
ter which came steaming up from the hold through the
crevices in my state room, brought on a disease, that
for more than two weeks, completely disabled me. It
was not sea-sickness under which I labored, but an
extreme debility accompanied with fever. There can
be no mistaking the former, and I considered myself
well versed in it from an intimate acquaintance during
several coasting voyages. A determination to rise supe-
rior to my physical weakness, was the only thing that
enabled me to counteract the extreme depression that as-
sailed me ; and I have never been more convinced of
the truth of a saying which has almost become a pro-
verb— " that a resolute spirit has greater efficacy in com-
batting our bodily ills, than medical prescriptions." No
disrespect to the profession, however.

When we are sick on shore, we obtain good medical
advice, kind attention, quiet rest, and a well ventilated
room. The invalid at sea, can command but very few
of these alleviations to his sufferings. The attentions
he receives, have none of that soothing influence, which
woman's tender sympathy alone can impart. Undisturb-
ed repose is out of the question, where every thing is in
motion and the bulkheads are dismally creaking. The
air of the cabin of a ship is always close and uncomfort-
able in bad weather. Let a man be sick any where else
but on shipboard.

For the last three or four days, the wind has hauled
around to the west and north-west, with frequent squalls.
Hardly a day passes, but the wind comes whistling down
upon us, and lashing us awhile in its fury, leaves us, to
be soon succeeded by another, when the same scenes of

3

26 VOYAGE TO THE AZORES.

"letting go the halliards — clewing up and clewing
down — " are enacted over and over again. During the
intervals, the ship rolls heavily in the sea, and the deck
is washed by the sea breaking in across her waist.
Buckets, pieces of wood, and other loose articles run
around the deck in wild disorder, to the serious annoy-
ance and hazard of one's nether limbs. Shower baths
provided gratis for those who are not on the look-out for
themselves. We have seen no whales as yet, and even
if we had, the sea has been too high for a boat to ven-
ture out in pursuit.

During the frequent squalls of the few days past, I
have been delighted with the beautiful rainbows that
formed at all hours of the day — now spanning the hea-
vens in a regular arch, then rising above the sea like
two pillars of resplendent colors, and again but just ting-
ing the clouds with their brilliant hues.

We are now about eighteen hundred miles from the
United States, and expect to reach the Western Islands
in six or eight days.

CHAPTER II.

FAYAL.

Arrival at Fayal — Appearance of the island — Situation of
the town — Fortifications — Burdens carried by porters —
Streets and buildings — Costumes of the different classes —
Ladies of Fayal — Consul's gardens — Manufacture and ex-
portation of wine — Casualties incident to the life of a wha-
ler— Dinner at the Consul 's — Supplees laid in at Fayal —
Departure — Lunar bow.

Tuesday, Nov. 12. This morning at seven bells (7±
o'clock) " Land-ho !" was sounded from mast-head, and
soon the high hills of Fayal, one of the Western Islands,
were dimly seen through the mist that shrouded their
summits.

The Azores, or Western Islands, as this group is usu-
ally called, lie within the parallels of north latitude 39°
44', and 36° 59', and the meridians 31° T and 25° 10' west.
They are nine in number, spreading over a considerable
extent of ocean, and distant from the United States about
two thousand seven hundred miles. Their names are
Corvo, Flores, Fayal, Pico, St. Jorge, Graciosa, Terceira,
St. Miguel, and Santa Maria.

To me the sight of land was very acceptable, after the
report I had heard of the tropical fruits growing upon
these islands ; and it was with great pleasure that I saw
the beautifully verdant hills of Fayal rising rapidly be-
fore us, as we neared them before a fair and fresh breeze
from the westward.

Fayal presents a somewhat picturesque appearance ;
its surface is very undulating, and high hills crowned

28 FAYAL.

with the richest verdure, complete its outline. We
coasted along the south side of the island, where the
shore is very bold, rising abruptly from the ocean, while
the surf breaks incessantly in foam and spray upon the
rocks that line the coast.

Each hill- side was covered with innumerable patches
of the richest green, which, I believe, were fields of
grain. On this part of the island, there are but few
trees of any magnitude. Around the sparsely scattered
houses, that we saw through the spy-glass, we observed,
however, small clusters of shrubbery.

To the eastward of Fayal, separated by a narrow
channel about five miles wide, is the island Pico, with
its mountainous summit, called the Peak of Pico, tower-
ing into the region of the clouds. Its height, I am told,
is 7,016 feet or 1-J- miles above the level of the sea ; and
for the greater part of the time, it is entirely obscured
by the mists that rest upon its summit.

As we approached Fayal, just abreast of the ship rose
up abruptly from the water's edge, a dark rock, which
at a distance, looks like a yawning cavern in the side of
the island. A little to the right is seen a cluster of
buildings and a church, which with their white plastered
walls, have a very pretty effect, contrasted with the ver-
dure of the fields. Far to the right is seen the island of
Pico, with its lofty conical summit. Between this and
Fayal, as I have before said, is a narrow channel, on the
left hand side of which, just after rounding the high
bluff on the south-eastern side of the latter, the town of
Fayal opens before you, built upon the sides of several
hills that incline towards the sea. Upon this bluff is a
small fortification, garrisoned by Portuguese soldiers ;
and there is also another fort facing the harbor, which
mounts nine or ten guns, of no very formidable charac-

TOWN OF FAYAL. 29

ter, as I should judge. The harbor of Fayal, the only
one among these islands that offers any anchorage to
ships, is but a mere indentation in the land, and is safe
only with a westerly or northerly wind. These islands
are subject to frequent and violent gales of wind, and
during a storm from the south, the ocean comes rolling
into the harbor in all its fury, oftentimes carrying away
the stone wall that defends the town on the side of the
harbor, constructed expressly to resist the violence of
the sea. The harbor is very deep, and the ordinary
chains of ships are insufficient to hold them in a gale of
wind from the southward.

There were one or two small, rakish looking vessels
lying at anchor near the shore, and a fine large ship,
standing off and on, with the American ensign flying at
her mizzen peak. She proved to be a whaler, from Wil-
mington, Delaware, and soon came to anchor to repair
her rudder, the head of which had been twisted off in a
gale of wind.

When about a mile from the landing place, we round-
ed to, and a boat was lowered to put the Captain and
myself ashore. The wind was fresh and flawy, and by
the time we reached the shore, we were all well sprink-
led with salt-water.

Fayal, like many other places, presents the best ap-
pearance at a considerable distance off. As you draw
nearer and nearer, the beautiful white walls of the
houses become more and more dingy, while the dark
muddy looking wall rising up from the water's edge,
gives to the town a peculiarly unprepossessing aspect.
There are no docks, and but two or three landing places
for boats. Articles of merchandize are transported to
and from the shipping in lighters, which are small craft
of ten or fifteen ton's burden.
a*

30 FAYAL.

We pulled for the stone quay, which was crowded
with a ragged, noisy multitude, all vociferating in a for-
eign language, which sounded to me like another " con-
fusion of tongues." It has a strange effect upon the
mind, when we hear for the first time a language we
cannot comprehend, while our own becomes a novelty.
Then we feel that we are indeed in the land of stran-
gers.

We were interrogated by the health officer, before we
were permitted to land, as to " Where we were from V
"How many days out?" &c. The answers were satis-
factory and we were allowed to pass. Our men in the
boat, however, underwent a more strictly personal exam-
ination ; for immediately after the health officer signified
his satisfaction of the health of the ship, one or two
men jumped into the boat, and commenced searching
the pockets of the crew, to see if they had secreted
any contraband articles, such as tobacco and soap. Not
much of the latter article was found, as sailors on duty,
do not often manifest an intimate acquaintance with this
article, and the appearance of the men might readily
have testified to the contrary. Of the other interdicted
commodity, many a choice bit was reluctantly surren-
dered, although in each case a consolatory quid was cut
off and given to the owner, for immediate use.

On landing, we were received by the brother of the
American consul, Mr. Dabney, who invited us to walk
up to his office, which is but a short distance from the
landing place, and overlooks the harbor. After a short
conversation with several American gentlemen about
the news from the United States, Captain Richards and
myself took a walk around the town.

Near the consul's office is the fortification, facing
the harbor, and in the rear of it runs the principal street

BURDENS CARRIED BY PORTERS. 31

of the city. Before the gateway stood several soldiers
of the garrison, and we saw several of them in our ram-
ble ; they are tall, martial looking men, and their dark
whiskers and moustaches have a very dashing appear-
ance. Their uniform is blue, resembling that of many
of our military companies at home. They wear upon
their heads little blue caps, trimmed with red, and in
shape resembling a truncated haystack. The entire
number of soldiers upon the island, Mr. Dabney inform-
ed me, does not exceed seventy.

Wherever we went, we were escorted before and be-
hind by a troop of ragged boys of very questionable ap-
pearance. The streets of Fayal are extremely narrow.
They are paved with large, flat stones, and are kept
as clean as could be expected, considering the appear-
ance of the population. The sidewalks are so narrow,
that two persons cannot walk side by side, without dan-
ger of tripping one another.

I was astonished at the immense burdens the porters
carried upon their shoulders. They occupied the mid-
dle of the street, moving along under large casks or
boxes, that seemed heavy enough to crush them. It
took two men on board our ship to transport readily, a
box of oranges, such as I saw individuals of them carry-
ing upon their heads and shoulders.

The heaviest work is performed by the labor of oxen,
yoked to short carts with strong wheels ; they are di-
rected with a stout pole pointed with iron, which the
driver, who walks just before them, thrusts against their
ribs every few minutes, not appearing, however, to ex-
ceed in cruelty, the teamsters of our own country, whose
wanton application of the lash to the poor patient ox,
has often roused my indignation.

We passed through one of the principal streets. The

32 FAYAL.

houses upon each side would be called three story build-
ings, although their actual height was about that of our
two story houses. Before each of the upper windows
are latticed balconies, painted green, in the front of
which are small doors ; some of these were opened a
little, disclosing at one time, a fair female face, at ano-
ther, the dirty phiz of some curious urchin. All the
houses of Fayal are built of stone, and are whitewash-
ed, which gives the city a very pretty appearance at a
distance, as I before observed. The population is about
five thousand, while that of the entire island is about
twenty-eight thousand, as I was informed by Mr. Dab-
ney. Our walk extended to the hospital, a large white
building, fancifully ornamented with slate colored fig-
ures of every variety of curve. It is a three story edi-
fice flanked by two wings, one on each side, extending
as far as any regard to symmetry would permit. This
large structure, the finest by far in the city, and well
located upon a gentle hill, was formerly a convent ; but
during a popular insurrection a few years since, the
priests were expelled, and the building appropriated as a
hospital, and as barracks for soldiers. On that occasion,
the numerous bells of the convent were all melted up
for coin, with the exception of one which is suspended
in one of the windows of the third story of the main
building. I could hardly account for this singular taste,
especially as the cupola of the convent stands close by,
which one would suppose to be the most natural loca-
tion for a bell. At the foot of the hill is a fountain, the
waters of which rise into a cistern about four feet in
height, supported by pilasters. The area of the cistern
is about ten feet by four, I should judge ; it is built of
red sandstone, and must have supplied the inhabitants
with water for some time, as it bears the date of 1680>

LADIES OF FAYAL. 33

sculptured upon one of the sides. Near the fountain
reposing upon the stones of the street in undisturbed
quiet, lay a meditative donkey, a sine qua non in all
Spanish and Portuguese places.

Many of the inhabitants were wrapped up in their
cloaks, although the thermometer stood at 60°. The
women almost universally, were seen dressed in large
cloaks, some of them having capacious hoods attached.
These cloaks were invariably of blue color, but of vari-
ous materials, according to the rank of the owners ; the
"ton" of the city, sported their broadcloth cloaks of very
ample folds.

These garments, which with us usually indicate cold
weather, are, I am told, worn also in the middle of sum-
mer. But what struck me as particularly ludicrous,
was the huge bell-topped hat, that the fashionable ladies
had adopted, which had at least the merit of being more
easily adjusted to the person than the head-dresses worn
by my fair countrywomen. A large white handkerchief
is first arranged upon the head, and upon this these
heavy hats tower up to a height endangering the neck
of the fair owner. She, however, seems sensible of this,
and is careful to keep the hat nicely balanced upon her
head, while her handkerchief waving to the breeze, com-
pletes the costume of a Fayal lady. The motions of
the ladies did not appear to me very graceful ; they
came swinging along half way between a trot and a
walk, reminding me of the daughters of Erin, I used to
see in New-Haven going to church. There are said to
be some very pretty ladies in Fayal ; but they did not, I
am certain, make their appearance in the streets on the
12th of November.

The lower class of men wore upon their heads little
blue conical caps of cloth, or straw hats of portly, bell-

34 PAYAL.

topped dimensions and shape. Those in a better condi-
tion in life, were dressed similarly with people in the
United States.

When we returned to the consul's office, an English
gentleman connected with the office, politely invited us
to visit the consul's gardens, a proposal we were glad to
accept. We were admitted to the premises by a private
entrance, which led to the front of the house through a
passage way between two parallel walls of twelve or fif-
teen feet in height, which were covered profusely with
grapevines. It was in vain that I looked for the grapes
I had been delighting my imagination with during our
voyage ; since the grape season had passed, and the
withered leaves were all that remained upon the vines.
We were shown one or two rooms of the house, that in-
dicated the style of affluence in which the consul is
accustomed to live. Then passing into the gardens,
beautiful flowers met our eyes in every direction, and
those that had faded before we left the United States,
were here exhibited in full bloom. Roses and Arteme-
sias of various kinds, I recognized as old acquaintances ;
while many varieties of flowers, that were quite new to
me, perfumed the air. Many plants I noticed, were here
growing in neglected luxuriance, that with us require
the most careful treatment. Geraniums towered up-
ward to the height of tall shrubs, while the hydrangea
was scattered over the garden as one of the most com-
mon flowers. The hydrangea, as well as several other
flowers, which with us are of a pink color, when trans-
planted to these islands, turns blue, and vice versa.

The method of rearing the orange tree from the slip,
was exhibited to us. An enclosure of tali reeds woven
together surrounds the tender orange slip to protect it
from the violent winds that frequently sweep over these

CONSUL'S GARDENS. 35

islands. In a year or two the young tree is enabled to
resist the ordinary blasts that assail it.

From this garden, itself of very ample dimensions, we
were led through a tunnel under a street, into another
of equal extent, rilled with many varieties of tropical
fruits. Orange trees, bending under the weight of their
rich yellow burdens, citron and lemon trees, grew up
thickly together like the trees of our forests : while the
ear was charmed with the warbling of birds. The grape
vines are trained upon arbors formed of the tops of par-
allel rows of young poplars entwined together. As I
looked down the long arches, wreathed with prolific
grape vines, and seeming to meet in the distance, and
rambled on through shady arbors, with the coffee tree
and the banana springing up around me, I could hardly
believe myself sixteen degrees north of the tropic, in
an inclement season of the year, and but about two
hundred miles to the southward of New-England.

The bananas were growing in an excavated hollow, a
necessary protection against the violent winds. The stalk
which bears the fruit is three or four inches in diameter
and rises to the height of ten or twelve feet. Immense
leaves of a rich, apple green color put out from the stalk,
which, near the top, give place to the fruit, a single bunch
numbering from twelve to twenty bananas. The banana
when ripe, is of a golden yellow color and in size and
shape, it very closely resembles the pod of the plant
with us commonly called milkweed (asclepias syriaca).
The rind is pulled off very readily, and discloses a lus-
cious and mealy pulp of a slightly acidulous and astrin-
gent taste, with a few small seeds set thickly along in a
longitudinal core.

These gardens are situated upon an inclined plane
above the level of the town, and command a delightful

36 FAYAL.

view of the ocean, and of the neighboring island of Pico.
They are surrounded by a high stone wall neatly white-
washed, upon which vines of various kinds are trained.

Returning towards the house, we were conducted into
the flower garden, where were flowers of every variety, and
rare shrubs evincing the taste of the proprietor, under whose
personal superintendance all these gardens were laid out.
On our way to the consul's office, we passed through a
quadrangular yard in the rear of the office, surrounded
upon three sides by large storehouses for wine, and ship
stores of various kinds. Under the hands of the cooper
were several huge casks made of Brazil wood, whose
great size is said to be important to the preservation of
this wine. Very little if any wine is made in Fayal ;
that consumed on the island, and exported to foreign
countries is imported from Pico, upon the south side of
which the grape vine is extremely prolific. It is called
"Pico Madeira," and is very similar to that which with
us bears the name of Madeira wine.

At the consul's office, we met the master of the whalei
that lay at anchor in the harbor. He was from Wilming-
ton, Delaware, and had been out only about as long as
ourselves, but had already met with a sad accident. In
an attack upon a whale, the line as it shot out of the
boat, became entangled around one of the men, and
instantly carried him down, and the poor man could not
be rescued until life was extinct. This is one of the
dreadful casualties to which the adventurous life of the
whaler is exposed. Were I inclined to make a digres-
sion, many a hair breath escape from death or mutila-
tion might be related, of which I have heard from the
mouth of those who have been active in these hazardous
adventures.

In the afternoon we were invited by Mr. Dabney to

- APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND. 37

dine with him at his mother's residence in the upper part
of the town. The family of Dabney is the most promi-
nent for wealth and respectability of any on the island ;
and upon each side as we passed, hats and caps were
raised in token of respect. As far as my observation
extended, the people appeared to be very polite and
respectful in their manners. Gentlemen in meeting or
passing one another, raise their hats from their heads,
and with a graceful wave restore them to their places. I
was told by Mr. Dabney, that there is a prodigious wear
of hats and caps among all classes, in the way of saluta-
tion. Whether this remark is to be taken in jest or in
earnest, I thought that my fellow countrymen, with all
their notions of economy, might advantageously adopt
the custom.

The elder Mr. D. is a graduate of Harvard University.
It was delightful to meet with a man of his intelligence,
especially one who had visited many places in America,
with which I was familiar. Those that never move
beyond the boundaries of their own country, do not know
how welcome is the face of a countryman in a foreign
land.

We ascended the hill upon which the Hospital stands,
and beyond it at some distance above, entered a gate
leading to the house, through an alley overshadowed by
the Sycamore tree, a great rarity at these islands. The
house faces the eastward, and commands a magnificent
prospect. Directly before us, the towering Peak of Pico,
then veiled in clouds, limits our view in that direction ;
while between the two islands, the deep blue ocean is
seen heaving its foam-capped billows, and extending to
the horizon on the right. The grounds about the house
are extensive, and still more beautiful than those of the
consul. From the piazza, which reaches entirely across

4

38 FAYAL.

the- front of the house, the garden with its orange and
lemon trees, whose fruits were lying neglected upon the
ground, and its verdant shrubbery, is spread out before
you.

We were soon ushered in to dinner, where we were
introduced to Mrs. Dabney, mother of the consul, and to
several other ladies, with whom we spent the hour very
pleasantly. The dinner was excellent, and served up
in good style, and it was peculiarly acceptable to me after
my experience of sea fare during the past month. Im-
mediately after dinner, we bade adieu to our very agree-
able hosts, and hurried aboard the North America.

During our absence, the various articles ordered by
the captain and myself, were sent on board in the con-
sul's lighter. Potatoes, oranges, apples, wine, fowls,
eggs &c, can be purchased here at a much cheaper rate
than at home. Of potatoes, one hundred bushels were
added to about an equal quantity we had on board.
More than two thousand oranges were purchased at the
rate of $3,00 per thousand, for the use of the ship. The
Fayal oranges are small, and rather sour, while the
apples are sweet and insipid.

I have been thus particular in enumerating our
supplies, to exhibit the liberality with which whalers
recruit wherever they stop for this purpose.

Late in the afternoon we left Fayal, and endeavored
to beat out to sea, but failing in this attempt, as there was
a strong current setting in between Fayal and Pico from
the southward, we fell off before the wind, with the
intention of circumnavigating the island. At sunset, we
were driving along under a close reefed maintopsail and
foresail, before a heavy squall off the land. The wind
was fresh all night, but the next day, (Wednesday,) we
were out of sight of land, very much to our satisfaction,

DEPARTURE. 39

lying to in a gale of wind, with the head of the ship
pointing to the westward.

On Thursday, (Nov. 14,) with a fine breeze from the
west, we altered our course for the south, and before
night, we bade adieu to the hills of Fayal and the Peak
of Pico, in sight of which we coasted during the day.

On Friday and Saturday, with the wind astern, we
made rapid progress southward, enjoying the fruits and
"fresh grub" we procured at the islands. On Sunday
and to-day, (Monday,) the wind has continued to blow
steadily from the N. E., and we are feeling the first
impulses of the trade winds, regular breezes within the
tropics, which blow generally from N. E. to S. W. on
the north side of the Equator and from S. E. to N. W.
on the south side.

This is the season of the year for the unusual display
of shooting stars, which for several years past, since the
grand exhibition of 1833, has excited so much attention
among astronomers. Last Wednesday was the anniver-
sary of this interesting event, and I had been looking
forward to its recurrence with no ordinary feelings of
interest, particularly as it had been enjoined upon me
to make a careful record of what facts I might collect
with reference to this phenomenon.

For several days previous, the officers of the watch
told me that they had seen an unusual number of very
brilliant meteors. It was not until Wednesday, that I
felt myself well enough to look out for meteors, and at
an early hour I was upon deck, in eager expectation.
How great was my disappointment on finding the ship
lying to in a gale of wind, and the sky overcast with
heavy clouds.

On Thursday morning, I again made the attempt. It
was a beautiful morning with a fine clear air ; but the

40 LUNAR BOW.

clouds that rose in quick succession and sailed across
the sky, precluded all astronomical observation.*

Although an exhibition of this wonderful phenomenon
has been denied me, I have often pictured to myself the
scientific excitement that has undoubtedly occurred at
New Haven ; and it has been to me a pleasing thought
that though far away from home and friends, our minds
are united in the same grand contemplations, and inter-
ested in the recurrence of the same phenomenon.

Tuesday, Nov. 19. We are making rapid progress
southward, and have arrived on the borders of the
tropics. A fine, fresh breeze is impelling us forward
tempered with the softness of a milder clime. Last
evening, just after sunset, I saw a phenomenon of an
entirely novel character to me. A bank of heavy clouds
rested on the western horizon, and on its front a beauti-
ful rainbow was set like a diadem. The moon was
shining serenely in the eastern sky, which gave origin
to this phenomenon. Captain Richards told me that he
had very frequently seen these lunar rainbows, though
not so often as the solar, but sometimes as brilliant even
as the latter.

* The Meteoric Showers of November, are supposed by my father to have
ceased after 1833. (" Letters on Astronomy," p. 350.)

CHAPTER III.

SHIP AND SHIPMATES.

Ship North America — Government aboard ship — Method of
ascertaining the latitude and longitude — eccentricities of
the cook — Amusements of the fore-castle — Etiquette on
board ship — Employments of the crew — Description of the
several parts of the ship, and peculiarities in the con-
struction OF A WHALER — ORDER AND CONTENTMENT OF THE

crew — Library — Flying fish.

Before proceeding farther in my narrative, I will
introduce the reader more particularly than I have yet
done, to my ship and shipmates. It may be well also to
explain the common maneuvres of a ship, and to de-
scribe its several parts at once, rather than to interrupt
the chain of my narrative by being obliged to stop fre-
quently to render myself intelligible to the uninitiated.

The North America, was built by Stephen Girard,
Esq., and was originally intended for a letter of marque
during the last war with Great Britain. The war
terminating before she was completed, she was applied
to the merchant service and sent to the East Indies.
About eight years since, she was purchased by her
present owners, and converted into a whaler. She is
an exceedingly strong vessel, with timbers of great size,
and disposed rather more closely together than is custom-
ary in most ships of her tonnage. Her frame work is
entirely of live oak, the best material for shipbuilding in
the world. She is a very fast sailer, particularly " on
the wind," and in working to windward has always had
the reputation of being surpassed by no square-rigged

42 SHIP AND SHIPMATES.

vessel. Since leaving the United States, we have beaten
every thing, although we have been under easy sail all
the time.

Whalers are navigated by more than the usual number,
of men for vessels of their tonnage. The North America
measures 386 tons, and fifteen or sixteen men " all told,"
would be considered adequate for working her in the
merchant service, whereas we carry thirty one men for
our complement. Each boat has a crew of four men,
besides the boatsteerer and the officer who commands her.
As we carry four boats in service, the remainder of the
crew work the ship, when the boats are in pursuit of
whales. Some whale ships carry five boats in service,
with a complement of forty men, and some but three,
with a proportionate number.

The management of the ship rests with the captain
and his officers. The supreme power is vested in the
captain, and it is absolute, extending not only to the
sailing of the ship and her internal economy, but also to
the conduct of every one on board. He exacts the most
scrupulous respect and deference from his officers and
men, and quickly reprimands or punishes any infraction
of the etiquette, which long usage has established. He
has the power of turning an officer before the mast, and
substituting one of the men in his place, if he is dissatis-
fied with his conduct. The comfort of the men depends
almost entirely upon the will of the captain. If he treats
them with kindness, their lot is comparatively happy ;
if he is tyrannical and abusive, the ship becomes a
miniature purgatory. In case of mutiny, the captain
would be justified at law, in shooting down any of the
mutineers, or in using any coercive measures to compel
them to return to their duty.

The captain and his officers take observations daily, if

SHIP NORTH AMERICA. 43

the weather permits, to ascertain the position of the ship,
and it is the duty of the former to mark down her daily-
progress upon the chart, a large scroll, upon which the
shores of continents, islands, rocks, shoals &c, are accu-
rately laid down in latitude and longitude. A ship's
position on the globe, is known when her latitude and
longitude are known. These are calculated by two
methods, — by dead reckoning, which proceeds upon
trigonometrical principles, and by observation of the
heavenly bodies ; the latter is preferable, as it is the most
exact in its calculations. Finding a ship's latitude by
observation is a very simple problem. The Sun's alti-
tude at noon is taken, and by a few calculations you
have the latitude.

The longitude is obtained by taking an altitude of the
Sun before noon or after noon, from which the exact
time of day is ascertained, and then by comparing this
time with the time at Greenwich, you have the longitude.
That time is known from the chronometer, an extremely
accurate timepiece adjusted to correspond to it, and
carefully wound up so as to preserve the true Green-
wich time. The necessity of extreme accuracy in the
movement of these instruments will be readily seen,
when it is recollected that an inaccuracy of four seconds
will make an error of a mile in the supposed position of
the ship. Hence it becomes very unsafe to rely upon a
chronometer entirely, and the prudent navigator takes
other observations every little while to rectify his chro-
nometer j for if he can only ascertain its rate of going or
amount of error, he can depend upon it without hazard.
In this case, he resorts to the more careful and delicate
observation of measuring the distance between the moon
and the sun by the sextant, while his officers are taking
altitudes of the Sun and Moon at the same instant, and

44 SHIP AND SHIPMATES.

some one is noting the time by the chronometer. From
these observations, the position of the ship is ascertained
by two independent methods, and the correctness of the
chronometer tested. The astronomical instruments
made use of are the quadrant and sextant, the former
used on common occasions for determining the latitude,
and the latter when great delicacy of observation is
requisite.

The captain stands no watch, but exercises a super-
vision over all, to see that they do their duty. Several
times during the night, the officers make report to him
of the progress of the ship, the appearance of the weather,
and any unusual occurrence. The captain also presides
at table, and gives orders to the steward about every
thing that comes upon the table, as well as about the
distribution of provisions among the ship's company. He
seldom has any conversation with the men ; all his
commands are issued to them through his officers.

The most arduous duties aboard the ship, devolve
upon the first mate. It is his duty to attend to the
reception of all the stores that are put aboard the ship,
and he also keeps the log-book, a kind of Journal ir> which
are registered the progress of the ship every hour, her
position in latitude and longitude, remarks on the
weather, &c. When all hands are called, he takes his
station with his watch upon the forecastle, and manages
the head sails, lets go the anchor, and sees that every
thing "alow and aloft," is "shipshape." The second
mate with the starboard watch, is stationed in the waist
of the ship to work the main and after sails, while the
third mate belongs on the forecastle. The second mate
of a merchantman is not usually respected very highly ;
but the second and third mates of a whaler, having
another grade of rank intervening between themselves

SHIP NORTH AMERICA. 45

and the foremost hands, are treated with much greater
deference.

The next in rank are the boatsteerers, of whom one is
attached to each boat, whose duty it is to keep the boat
and all her appurtenances in complete order. They are
also frequently sent off in charge of their boats to execute
some command for the captain or officers, and are very
ambitious to make a good appearance before the other
men, or else they will not be respected. All whaleships
carry a cooper, a carpenter, and a blacksmith, whose
respective duties will be understood without my descend-
ing to particulars.

Our crew is composed of representatives from a variety
of nations. Besides the Americans, there are three Indians,
one Englishman, six Portuguese, and several colored
gentry, that claim to be Americans. One of the Indians
bears the renowned name of John Uncas, and is a lineal
descendent of the celebrated Sachem of the Mohegans.
He is a very active intelligent boy, and will become a
first rate seaman.

Our cook and steward belong to the ebony race ; the
former, « Mr. Freeman," as he is often designated, is the
most comical character I ever met with, and I cannot
refrain from adding a tribute to his memory, as he is the
fountain of all the fun and good humor aboard the ship.
In this respect, he sustains a relation to the ship similar
to that of the jester in a feudal establishment ; and although
the captain and officers would consider it impairing
their dignity to descend to any familiarity with the men,
yet "Spot," is regarded as the privileged character on
board, and the discipline is not relaxed by any amuse-
ment at his expence, which the captain and officers
choose to indulge in. He receives a serio-comic punish-
ment from the captain and officers every day, when his

46 SHIP AND SHIPMATES.

grimaces and exclamations are so ludicrous that I am
sometimes almost faint with laughing. We call him
down into the cabin now and then, and give him presents,
to amuse ourselves with his elegant bows and expressive
exclamations of satisfaction. He possesses all the negro
accomplishments in full perfection, embellishing his
conversation by the use of language in all the variations
of which it is susceptible. He can sing a song, play
upon the "fiddle," dance various jigs "on the light
phantastic toe," and roll up the white of his eye — all in
the genuine negro style. I have witnessed the exhibi-
tions of many extravaganza performers, but I think they
were surpassed by our cook with his various appella-
tions of " Spot," " Jumbo," « Congo," « Skillet," " Kidney
foot," &c. Among his other good qualities, he is extreme-
ly polite, and bids me "good morning," with a very
graceful bow ; and if I consult him about the weather,
when the clouds indicate a favorable change, he takes a
very wise look around in every direction, and predicts,
that " we are going to have some very plausible weather,
so far as the aspection of the sky would seem to elucidate"
He is frequently summoned into the cabin, and soon
makes his appearance on deck, with his capacious mouth
distended to its utmost limits, with oranges, apples, and
other things, which have been thrust into it.

The steward takes care of the ship's small stores, and
distributes the provisions according to a bill of fare given
to him by the captain. His appearance also partakes of
the comical, especially when he waits upon table in the
cabin, when his lank, ebony visage, and long limbs,
remind me of the India Rubber men I have seen in shoe-
maker's shops at home. He is a very important person-
age among the men, however, especially with those who
are looking anxiously for a stray bit from the cabin table.

SHIP NORTH AMERICA. 47

The cook with his " fiddle," and the steward with his
tambourine, hold musical soirees on the forecastle every
evening in pleasant weather. Whatever may be thought
of the performances of these sable musicians, they are
sufficient to excite the activity of all that are disposed to
dance. There is a mysterious connection between the
vibration of a fiddle string and the vibrations of the
heels. For as soon as the sound of the violin is heard,
then commences a general patter upon deck of all the
excited. The dancing of sailors does not require a
knowledge of the fashionable figures ; all that is neces-
sary, is to keep time with the feet, and to beat the deck
with a suitable degree of vehemence. Simple as this
sport may appear, it serves happily to diversify a sea
life, and I frequently go forward to amuse myself with
the curious maneuvres exhibited, and the good humor
that prevails. At eight bells, (eight o'clock,) all " sky-
larking," or amusement instantly ceases, and all hands
disperse, some to their berths, and others to their duties
upon deck.

The men as I have before said, are divided into two
watches, the larboard and the starboard, who keep watch
upon deck alternately for four hours at a time. The
watches are regulated by the bell, which is struck four
times at every half watch, when the wheel is relieved
as well as the look-outs at the mast-heads ; and eight
times when the watch is out, and the other half of the
crew come upon deck. In most ships I believe it is
customary to strike the bell every half hour. There are
certain forms of respect that are never deviated from
aboard all vessels where discipline is observed. The
foremost hands never come aft, unless they have busi-
ness which calls them there, and then they always take
the lee side of the ship, and any " sky-larking" upon the

48 SHIPAND SHIPMATES.

quarter deck, would be severely punished. If a sailor
has occasion to go into the cabin upon any duty, he is
careful to leave his hat upon deck.

It is an important object to keep the men always
employed during their watch upon deck, and their
duties are performed with regularity from day to day.
At daylight, commences the scrubbing of decks and
washing down fore and aft. This is done by the watch
upon deck, who with their heavy " scrub brooms," and
common brooms, wash and scrub the decks until they
are perfectly clean. Sometimes soap and sand are used,
as often as once every day or two. When this duty is
completed, the mastheads are manned, and at half past
seven o'clock, breakfast is served up, immediately after
which, the carpenter, blacksmith and cooper, are engaged
in their respective avocations, while the watch is em-
ployed upon an old sail, picking oakum, making spun
yarn, (fee. No one is allowed to be idle, and every thing
proceeds with a regularity, which people in general, from
a misconceived antipathy, are not willing to credit in a
whaleman.

As was originally proposed, we will now describe the
different parts of the ship, and the peculiar construction
of a whaleship. In the accompanying diagram is a repre-
sentation of the North America, on the wind, with her
larboard tacks aboard,* and the reader is requested to
compare the following description with the picture.
From the bow of the vessel, projects the bowsprit, from
the extremity of which extends the gibboom and flying

* The reason assigned by Jack, for giving the pronoun relating to a ship,
the feminine gender, is rather amusing, and somewhat discourteous to the
fairer portion of creation. Says Jack, " the reason why we call a ship a she,
is because her rigging costs more than her hull ;" an opinion, to the truth
of which, I hope I shall not be considered as certifying.

SHIP NORTH AMERICA. 49

gibboom in one stick. The foremast rises upon the bow,
the mainmast in the middle, and the mizzenmast in
the aftermost part of the vessel. The supports of the
masts upon each side, are denominated swifters and
shrouds, and unite in the tops, semicircular landing
places, about nine feet wide, at right angles to the fore
and mainmasts. That which corresponds to them on
the mizzenmast is called the mizzen cross trees. The
next upper divisions of the mast are called topmasts, as
the foretopmast, &c. They are supported like the lower
masts by headstays, shrouds and backstays. The next
upper divisions are the top gallant masts, and the next
the royal masts, terminating in a ball called the royal
truck. The landing places above the tops are denomi-
nated cross trees, and are named from the divisions of the
mast to which they belong, as the foretopmast-crosstrees,
the maintop -gallant crosstrees. The men sent aloft to look
out for whales, are stationed in the top gallant- crosstrees.
Upon the extremity of the flying gibboom rises the
flying gib ; next to this, and nearer the vessel is the
gib, and next comes the foretopmast- stay sail, a small
triangular sail, used principally when the ship is " lying
to" in a gale of wind. Upon the foremast are the foresail
or forecourse, foretopsail, for etop gallant- sail, and some
ships carry a foreroyal. Upon the mainmast, are the
mainsail or maincourse, &c. Ships sometimes carry a
sail above the royal, called the skysail, and sometimes,
though rarely, a sail above this called a moonsail. These
"light kites," however, are of but little use, and it would
be much better to enlarge the royals and dispense with
them altogether. Vessels, in going with the wind free,
frequently carry temporary sails upon one or both sides
of their topsails, topgallant-sails, and royals, called

50 SHIP AND SHIPMATES.

studding sails. The largest sail upon the mizzenmast
is the spanker ; above which is the gaft-topsail ; between
the mizzenmast and mainmast, are seen two trian-
gular sails, the lower one of which is named the mizzen
staysail, and the upper the mizzen topmast-staysail.
There are several other sails that ships sometimes spread,
though rarely, which I will just enumerate, as, the gib
of gibs ', gib topsail^ fore and main spenser, ringtail and
water sail.

The yards, are the spars upon which the square rigging
is distended, and receive their names from the sails " bent"
upon them ; they are brought to any required angle with
the length of the ship by means of the braces attached to
the yard arm, and worked upon deck. The halliards,
runners and ties, elevate the yards upon the upper masts.
The sheets are those chains or ropes that draw down the
ends of the sails to their proper places. The reef points
are short ropes about two feet long, arranged in rows
upon each side of the larger sails, and are used to dimin-
ish their size. There are in the topsails three rows of
reef points, and a ship is said to be under single, double
or close reefed topsails, according as one or two or three
reefs are taken in these sails. A sail is clewed up, when
the extremities of its foot or lower edge are drawn up to
the middle of the yard. There are many ropes used in
working the sails, such as clewlines, buntlines, bowlines,
and reef tackles, which it would be tedious to explain. A
ship is said to be Hin stays," when the wind is ahead, in
a line with the masts, when after receiving the wind on
one side, she is. endeavoring to come around on the other.
The wind is " abeam," when at right angles with the
length of the vessel ; " upon the quarter," when it comes
aft, but not in a line with the length of the ship.

SHIP NORTH AMERICA. 51

We will now come down from aloft upon deck.*
Between the mainmast and foremast are the tryworks,
large furnaces built of bricks, and containing two
immense iron pots, for trying out the oil from the blub-
ber. The flames and smoke escape through several
openings in the top of the works. Between the main-
mast and mizzenmast is the " galley," a little kennel large
enough for the cook and his stove, but a mystery to all
ambitious housekeepers with capacious kitchens, how so
much, and such a variety can be cooked in so small a
compass. There sits Jumbo, in sooty dignity, superin-
tending the steaming coppers, and reflecting upon the
responsibility of his station, while the hot liquids are
scattered around, and perchance fly upon his unshod
extremities, as the ship rolls heavily in a cross sea. In
some ships, the galley is set forward of the foremast.
Above the galley is a framework of spars, called " bearers,"
upon which the spare boats are turned bottom upwards.

In the aftermost part of the ship, are the ivheel and
the binnacle, containing two compasses, by which the
course of the ship is regulated.

Abaft the mizzenmast is the companion way leading
into the cabin, appropriated exclusively for the captain
and his officers. The cabin contains six staterooms, a
storeroom and a pantry. A state-room aboard a ship,
places a man in rather contracted quarters. One very
soon becomes used to it, and I feel as contented in my
little bandbox, measuring not more than six feet one way
and four feet the other, and receiving light through
thick ground glass set in the deck, as I should in a
palace ; and I can sleep as comfortably in my berth with

* Looking towards the head of the ship, the right hand side is called the
starboard, and the left hand the larboard.

52 SHIP AND SHIPMATES.

its coffin-like dimensions, as upon the finest bed : much
better too, for I am now prevented from rolling about in
the pitching and tossing of the ship. Just forward of the
mizzenmast is the steerage, covered over with a box
having a slide upon it, called the " booby-hatch" a pecu-
liar designation not applicable to those who live in the
steerage, as they strenuously contend ; for here are loca-
ted the boatsteerers, carpenter, cooper and blacksmith.

In some ships, all the steerage men take their meals
in the cabin after the captain and officers have had
theirs, but it is not the case with us.

Forward of the foremast, is the forecastle, a receptacle
for sailors, where twenty- one men are stowed away, in
a manner mysterious to those who have never visited
this part of the ship. The forecastle of the North Amer-
ica t aiUCh larger than those cf most ships of her ton-
nage, and is scrubbed out regularly every morning.
There is a table and a lamp, so that the men have con-
veniences for reading and writing if they choose to avail
themselves of them ; and many of them are practising
writing every day or learning how to write. Their sta-
tionery they purchase out of the ship's stores, and then
come to one of the officers or myself for copies, or to
have their pens mended. When not otherwise occupied,
they draw books from the library in the cabin, and read;
or if they do not know how, get some one to teach them.
We have a good library on board, consisting of about
two hundred volumes, and a good proportion of sperm
whalers are also provided with them. Sailors, as a gen-
eral thing, are ready to avail themselves of any opportu-
nities for mental improvement ; and I have no doubt the
efforts of the benevolent in supplying ships with good
books and tracts, will be attended with great success.
Notwithstanding the immorality that is to be so much

THE SLOP CHEST. 53

deplored among seamen, they have generally a respect
for religion and its observances. It is very gratifying to
take a look at the forecastle upon the Sabbath in pleasant
weather. Perfect stillness prevails aboard the ship ; no
loud talking is allowed, while the " people," after wash-
ing and dressing themselves neatly, are seated around
the forecastle, or upon the windlass, poring over the Bi-
ble or some tract.*

We have a good medicine chest on board, which I
believe to be the case with a majority of whale ships.
To provide for wear and tear of clothes during the long
voyage, a large assortment of garments of every kind is
put on board, to be sold to the men as they may need, at
a slight advance upon the original cost, after the expira-
tion of one year from the time of sailing. These are
denominated " slop chest " clothes. Were perfectly fair
dealing observed in all cases towards the men in the
management of the "slop chest," one of the most prolific
sources of discontent aboard whale ships, would be en-
tirely removed. The men as they ship for the voyage,
are told that they need not trouble themselves about any
preparations, as every thing they may require, can be
purchased out of the "slop chest" after they get to sea.
Upon applying for necessary clothing after they are sep-
arated hundreds of miles from home, they find that eve-
ry article they ask for, is indeed in the slop chest — but
to have it, they are to be charged a most exorbitant profit
on the first cost, so that all their hard earned wages are

* My situation as passenger, enables me to extend to the crew many acts
of kindness which the stern discipline of the ship would hardly permit in an
officer, and their gratitude is manifested by their avidity to oblige me when-
ever any occasion presents itself, and to exhibit other marks of regard.
Whenever in my rambles about the ship, I go forward, their looks indicate
that I am no unwelcome visiter.

5*

m

54 SHIP AND SHIPMATES.

to be swallowed up to enrich those that have practised
so pitiful a plan of fraud and oppression. Let me res-
pectfully suggest to all those interested in fitting out
whale ships, that upright dealing in the disposal of slop
chest-goods, will ensure a far greater profit in the legit-
imate results of the voyage, than any exorbitant gains
which may be realized in taking advantage of the neces-
sities of the sailor.

The boats are hoisted up by means of davits, (" da-
vies ") curved timbers upon which the boat tackles are
worked, and are supported by cranes swinging under-
neath them. The ivindlass is a powerful apparatus in
the forward part of a ship for hoisting the anchors or
for any other purpose requiring the exertion of great
power; it revolves horizontally, worked by long levers
called handspikes, and is movable in one direction, but
immovable in the other.

Thursday, Nov. 28. We are now within five degrees
of the equator, a latitude all over the ocean visited with
heavy squalls of deluging rain, with baffling winds, and
oppressive heat. This region, known to the sailor, by
the name of uthe doldrums" extends from five to eight
degrees north latitude, the interval between the trade
winds, and ships are sometimes detained here for twelve
or fourteen days in the most disagreeable position imagi-
nable. For a week past the weather has been most de-
lightful with a fine fresh breeze from the eastward.

Flying fish are found upon the deck of the ship almost
every morning, having flown aboard during the night.
The flying fish is a beautiful silvery fish, having delicate,
gauze-like wings, that appear like enlarged fins, with
which he rises from the sea and skims along with a kind
of tremulous vibration, to a distance of thirty or forty
yards frequently, when his wings beginning to grow dry,

FLYING FISH. 55

compel him to fall into the ocean again. Flying fish in
their flight near a ship, are often taken in a current of
air, and drawn aboard, when they fall upon her deck,
particularly during the night, and this is a more frequent
occurrence in rough than in calm weather. They vary
very much in size, from those which are not larger than
insects, and hardly discernible, to those that measure
twelve or fifteen inches in length. The larger kind are
furnished with an additional pair of wings, located just
above the ventral fin, but smaller than those towards the
head.

For a long time flying fish were considered as fabu-
lous animals by those who had not been over the blue
waters, and there are some living " remote from cities,"
that are still incredulous about their existence.

CHAPTER IV.

WHALING SCENES.

Attack and capture of whales — General appearance of the

sperm whale great size of the respiratory organs and

vascular system — sympathy of cetaceous animals for each
other — Inaccurate representations of the whale — Nature
of blubber — " cutting in " — perils attending the process—
Spermaceti — " Trying out."

Monday, Dec. 2. Yesterday was a great day aboard
the North America, as it was our first initiation into the
appropriate business of the voyage. With the excep-
tion of a whale we saw a few days before reaching
Fayalj which proved to be the Jin-back, a species very
rarely taken by the whaler, we have not seen the spout
of a whale since leaving the United States, a period of a
month and a half. For the greater part of this time the
look-outs have not been stationed at mast-head, owing to
the rough weather we have constantly encountered.

About eight o'clock yesterday morning, the ship was
thrown into confusion by the welcome cry " There she
blo-o-o-ws," sounded several times from mast-head.
" Where away?" was asked by the captain on deck.
" Right ahead — a school of sperm whales." And indeed,
about a mile off, a frequent succession of mist-like puffs,
rising above the sea, to the height of five or six feet, indi-
cated our proximity to a school of sperm whales. Every
one hurried upon deck at the first sound, and every thing
was in a state of commotion. " Come down from aloft —
haul up the mainsail and spanker — helm down — back

'

ATTACK AND CAPTURE OF WHALES. 57

the maintopsail — clear away your boats — lower away
starboard and larboard !" shouted the captain in a breath ;
and in an instant the ship was lying motionless upon
the sea. A rattling of boat-tackle-falls, several plunges
in quick succession, and the fleet boats glided swiftly over
the billows, with their long oars flashing in the morning
sun. In a few moments, after surrounding the spot
where the whales were last seen, they "hove up," to
await their re-appearance, while those of us on board
were watching with breathless interest for the whales to
"come up." In fifteen or twenty minutes, "there she
blows," " there she blows !" was quickly repeated by half
a dozen eager spectators. Their re-appearance was soon
perceived by the boats, and pursuit was instantly given
by one or two of them in the most cautious manner, lest
the whales becoming " gallied" or alarmed, should take
to flight.

" Captain's boat's after them— there he stands ready to
give it to him — don't miss, Tom, (the name of a boat-steer-
er,) don't for gracious sake — oh dear, he's hove up — there
goes flukes — white waters — Mr. Babcock's boat goes on
to them — there he gives it to him, hurrah !" — Such were
some of the exclamations from the forecastle. "One
boat's fast !" shouted the ship-keeper who had gone aloft.
As I watched the boats through the spyglass, I saw one
of them running swiftly through the water with its oars
" peaked," i. e., with their blades elevated high up upon
each side — now darting in one direction, then in another
— then stationary; until in a few minutes the poor
animal exhausted with pain, and the violence "of his
efforts, comes up to breathe, when he receives another
harpoon, and several strokes of the lance, and goes down
again, lashing the sea furiously in his agony. " Another
boat's fast !" shouted the lookout from mast head, and

58 WHALING SCENES.

the welcome news was received with a shout of enthu-
siasm by all on deck. "There he carts him!" as the
boat was hurried over the waves with a long line of
foam after her — "spade his flukes — touch him in the
tender spot !"

Meanwhile, the whale that had been first struck,
exhausted with pain and the loss of blood, which tinged
the sea of a crimson hue in his wake, begins to exhibit
signs of giving up the contest. He runs wildly around,
lashing the sea with his flukes, and throwing himself
out of water, while a crimson spray is blown into the
air, telling that he is " in his flurry," or in the agonies
of death. The boat to which he was fast, drew off to a
respectful distance to await the fearful struggle, which
terminated in a few minutes, and the huge animal
" turned up" or rolled over on his side, now harmless,
the spoil of his daring captors.

When there are other whales in sight, the captured
whale is "waifed," i. e., a rod of four or five feet in
length, bearing a little flag, is inserted into his carcass,
which is now abandoned, and pursuit is given in another
direction. As the whale is a dark object, and rises but
little above the surface of the sea, he is not readily
discerned without this precautionary measure.

In the course of half an hour, the second whale ft turned
up," and the boats abandoning the chase after the others,
returned to the ship, towing the captured whales.

The general appearance of the whale, is that of a
huge flabby mass, rising but little above the surface of
the sea, and bending in conformity with the undulations
of the waves. The head and the back of the sperm
whale are nearly in a line as far as the hump, a thick
prominence, rising above the ridge of the back. The
head, in bulk, is nearly one third of the entire animal,

i

i w "•"•i;

DESCRIPTION OF THE WHALE. 59

and is very angular in its outline with a small receding
under jaw, set with firm short teeth, forty two in number,
slightly curved inwards, at an interval of two or three
inches apart, while there are no teeth in the upper jaw.
At the upper angle of his head, is a cleft, closed at will,
from which the confined air of the lungs is blown out
whenever the animal comes upon top of water, con-
densed in a white mist, that vanishes in an instant.
From the hump, the ridge of the back descends in
irregular curves frequently, until it reaches the flukes^
or tail. The flukes are the most formidable weapon
of the whale. Unlike those of fish, which are set verti-
cally, the flukes of all whales are horizontal: at their
union with the main body of the animal, the juncture
is very small, and whenever a whale is violent in his
movements, a few strokes of the spade across the ten-
dons of the flukes, passing along here, will very soon
reduce him to submission. The outline of the lower
part of the animal is slightly undulatory, terminating in
the jaw, which runs to a point. There are two side fins
or "swimming paws," short and thick, at a distance
from the extremity of the head, of about one third the
length of the animal. They are supposed by some to
assist the animal in balancing himself, as they are too
small to be of very material service in moving forwards;
in many other species of the whale, the side fins are
much longer than in the cachalot or sperm. The eye is
exceedingly small, not larger than that of an ox, and is
located in a prominence in the back part of the head.
The ear* is a funnel shaped cavity situated between
the eye and the lower jaw, of so minute a size, as hardly
to admit one's little finger.

* Dr. Good in his " Book of Nature," gravely asserts that the whale has
no external ear, but that sounds are conveyed to him through his mouth.

60 WHALING SCENES.

Between the eye and the hump, the body swells out
to its largest dimensions, and is often deeply wrinkled.

The color of the sperm whale is usually of ash grey,
with occasional dashes of whitish streaks, laid on irregu-
larly over his exterior.

The Cetacea are warmblooded animals, and are
provided with an internal organization, like that of land
animals, which obliges them to come up to the surface
of the water to breathe. The length of time elapsing
before they require a fresh supply of air, differs with the
size of the animal. A large sperm whale will sometimes
stay down over an hour and a half; when he returns to
the surface again, however, he sometimes remains up for
more than half an hour, moving sluggishly about and
blowing off every few moments.

When we contemplate the immense proportions exhi-
bited by some varieties of Cetacea in their organization —
the lungs expanding with the vast volume of air inhaled
— and the heart impelling at each pulsation from ten to
fifteen gallons of blood through an aorta, a foot in diam-
eter, into the vascular system— the idea of their magni-
tude must fill the mind with astonishment. "The
diameter of the aorta, of a sperm whale that was
thrown upon the coast of Yorkshire was 12£ inches ;
thickness of the coat of the artery * inch. Length of
the heart from the apex to the valves of the aorta, 3 feet
10 inches. On the left ventricle being laid open, its capa-
city was guessed to contain from eight to ten gallons.-"
(Camb. Phil. Trans.)

Since the order Cetacea does not derive oxygen by a
separation of the atmosphere from the element in which
they live, as is the case with all kinds offish, which are
provided with a peculiar apparatus for this purpose, the
length of time during which respiration is suspended in

SPERM WHALE. 61

many varieties of this order is most worfderful. " Respi-
ration is in a great degree subservient to the circulation
of the blood ; the stimulus to inspiration is the accumu-
lation of this fluid in the lungs, which when purified,
proceeds to the heart whence it is propelled through the
frame for the purpose of secretion, &c; after which, it is
again received into the veins, when it assumes its venous
aspect, and is deprived of its arterial character. The
circle thus described in man and the mammalia generally
is, so to speak, continuous and simple. In the cetacea,
however, it is not so ; for in them, the arterial portion,
instead of being a simple and direct course to the venous,
is complicated by the addition of a structure, which we
believe is peculiar to this order, and which is nothing
less than a grand reservoir for the reception of a great
quantity of arterial blood, which as occasion requires, is
emptied into the general circulation, and thus for a time
supersedes the necessity of respiration." (Naturalist's
Library, vol. vi. p. 50.)

Whales are also viviparous, and of course, the cow
whale is provided with udders for suckling her young,
in common with all mammalia.

In an attack upon a school of whales, it is very com-
mon with whalers to strike a calf whale, for its dam will
not readily desert her offspring, and in her extreme
solicitude for her young, is a frequent victim. The taking
of one of a school, almost always ensures the capture of
another, for his comrades do not immediately abandon
the victim, but swim around him, and appear to sympa-
thise with him in his sufferings.

The appearance of the whale as represented in most
works of natural history, is extremely inaccurate, and no
one would suspect for what it was designed, unless it were
labelled.

6

62

WHALING SCENES.

All cetaceous animals are enveloped in a thick cover-
ing of fat called blubber, varying in thickness from four
to fourteen inches, and very different in animals of the
same size. It is a firm, hard substance of a fibrous tex-
ture, infiltrated with oil, and surrounded upon the exte-
rior with a strong skin, generally having a thick scurf
adhering to it. There is also a thin semi-transparent
skin adhering loosely to the surface of the animal, and
not unfrequently hanging in tatters over his carcase.

After the whale has been secured alongside by a rope
or chain passing around his flukes, and carried to the
bowsprit bitts in the forward part of the ship, then comes
the most laborious part of the whaling business. The
cutting gear is rove, consisting of two very large and
strong ropes passing through powerful blocks, hanging
a few feet below the main-top, and through others upon
deck, strapped with large thimbles, into which a bar of
wood may be introduced, three or four inches in diame-
ter, and about two feet in length. Two immense iron
hooks, about two feet and a half in height, and provided
with a shackle and toggle so as to " ship and unship,"
complete the cutting gear.

The implements used in " cutting in " the whale, are
cutting spades with long " poles " or handles ; boarding
knives, two edged knives, about two feet and a half
long, sharp pointed, and fixed upon a handle about three
feet long — pikes, bars of iron pointed with steel and
fixed upon the ends of short poles — and gaff hooks,
iron hooks pointed with steel, also fixed upon poles in
a similar manner.

Having thus described the implements of a cutting in"
the whale, I will now attempt to describe the process.

Upon each side of the gangway, a staging is let down,
upon which those that wield the cutting spades, take

CUTTING IN. 63

their stand. A deep incision is made into the neck
of the whale, through which the blood flows in a deluge,
discoloring the sea, and almost hiding the animal from
view. The ship with her foretopsail " hove a-back," moves
slowly out of the " bloody water," and soon a large hole
is cut in the blubber into which the blubber hook is in-
serted, connected with the windlass by the powerful
purchase which I have before described. To point the
hook into the orifice made for it, one of the boatsteerers,
having upon his feet a pair of woollen stockings to pre-
vent his slipping, jumps overboard, guarded by a rope
passing under his arms, and tended by one of the men
upon deck. It is no very easy matter to introduce the
hook into the proper place, while the sea is dashing the
whale against the ship and the waves are breaking over
him ; so that a man runs the risk of being strangled, or
of being bruised by the concussion of the animal with
the vessel. The danger of being horribly mutilated by
the sharks that assemble in great numbers during the
" cutting in," attracted by the scent of blood, is by no
means inconsiderable. They are so voracious, that not-
withstanding the deep gashes they receive from the cut-
ting spades, they rush upon the whale, and tear off large
masses of blubber with their formidable jaws. Several
times I trembled for the safety of the man who was en-
deavoring to fix the blubber hook into the proper place,
as a large shark came up within a few inches of his leg,
and once I thrilled with horror as one of those ravenous
monsters turned over in the attitude of seizing one of his
limbs m his terrible teeth ; but at this moment a pull
upon the rope extricated the man from his perilous situ-
ation. Sharks of this species (the blue, peaked nose va-
riety) rarely bite any one ; yet in the bloody water
around the whale, they snap at whatever they can lay

64 WHALING SCENES.

hold of, and the adventurous seaman is sometimes man-
gled in the most horrible manner by their jaws, which are
powerful enough to sever a limb instantly. — At one time
the man had thrust the hook into the hole when
his leg had struck, when he jumped upon the whale,
and his limb would have been crushed, had not the
hook slipped from the blubber at that instant.

After the hook has been properly adjusted in the ori-
fice cut for its reception, a gash is cut obliquely upon
each side ; a turn or two is given at the windlass, and
the blubber, yielding to the tremendous strain, becomes
detached, and is unwound, while the whale rolls over
and over, until the entire exterior coat, about a yard in
breadth is torn off down to the flukes. When the strip
of blubber has been elevated to some distance above the
deck, the second set of cutting gear is brought into ser-
vice ; and the strap and thimble are thrust through an
opening cut into the blubber, and secured by the wooden
bar fixed into it, while the blubber above it is severed
and dropped into the blubber room, a space appropriated
for the reception of it under the main hatch. Both the
blubber hooks are dispensed with for the present, and the
thimbles succeed one another alternately, until the body
of the whale has been disposed of. While this process has
been going forward, the head has been cut off just behind
the eyes, and secured to the main channels or by a rope
passing on board and fastened to the maintopsail sheet
bitts. The under jaw is then severed and hoisted in
upon deck, and the remainder of the head after being
divided into two triangular portions, is also taken aboard.
The head of the sperm whale is the most valuable part
of the animal, containing by far the richest proportion
of spermaceti, although the oil made from any part of the
animal yields a certain proportion. Hence, it is always

SPERM OIL

65

desirable to raise the head upon deck, if practicable ; if
otherwise the " case," a cavity in the upper part of the
head, is opened and bailed out, while the latter is firmly
secured alongside the ship. The case is surrounded by
a thick wall of a white, gristly substance, termed by the
whalers u white horse ;" the cavity is lined with a yel-
lowish fat, and is filled with oil of a very superior qual-
ity, which, when warm, is perfectly limpid, but concretes
in beautiful white masses, if allowed to become cold, or
as it drips upon the water.

Above is a representation of the outline of the sperm
whale, with the sections into which his exterior coat is
divided. The position of the cavity of the case is indi-
cated by the letter a ; b, the junk ; c, bunch of the neck ;
d, hump ; e, flukes ; /, /, blanket pieces, — spiral bands
in which the blubber is unwound from the carcase ; g9
orifice in the blubber for the reception of the blubber
hook, attached to the cutting falls, h.

It is to be remarked, that fresh oil has but very lit-
tle or none of that nauseous, disagreeable odor that
belongs to it when it is put into our lamps at home
after two or three years have elapsed since it was ob-
tained, and it is a common thing aboard whale ships
to treat their crews with a quantity of dough nuts fried
in the oil dipped from the case. 1 have no doubt
they have a fine relish, and I should be very glad to try

6*

66 WHALING SCENES.

some of them myself, although some time will probably
elapse first, as the rule aboard the North America is not
to have any dough nuts fried in head oil until there are
a thousand barrels of oil on board.

The larger of the two whales we took this morning,
must have measured about forty feet, and the smaller
about twenty-five feet. The length of the head was not
far from twelve feet in the larger, and contained a cavity
large enough to hold two or three men after the oil (sev-
enty or eighty gallons) had been dipped out.

Sperm whales have been captured of a length exceed-
ing eighty feet, and a good estimate may be formed of
the magnitude of the case, when it is known that over
ten barrels of oil are frequently dipped from this cavity.

The head oil and fat are immediately committed to the
try-pots, while the blubber in the blubber room is cut up
into angular pieces of two feet in length perhaps, by one
foot in breadth. Meanwhile a fire has been kindled in
the furnace, which is kept up night and day, until the
oil is tried out and put up in casks. The tubs for hold-
ing the blubber, of various sizes, are also brought up from
" between decks," as well as the mincing- horses, and
mincing knives, sharp knives with a handle at each end,
and used for cutting up the junks of blubber into small
pieces. Some of the men are down among the blubber,
others are engaged in sliding the tubs to the main hatch
for the reception of blubber, and in pushing them back
to the mincing horse upon the larboard side near the
tryworks — others still, are employed about the mincing
horse, while the officer of the watch with one or two
boatsteerers, or the best men in his watch, superintend the
tryworks. The fire is commenced with pieces of dry
wood, and is afterwards supported with great intensity
by the " scraps " or refuse pieces of blubber from which

SPERM OIL. 67

the oil has been tried out. The oil must be boiled in
order to expel every thing of a watery nature. that might
have been mingled with it in its natural state, otherwise
it cannot be preserved from corruption. As the boiling
point of oil is far above that of water, the heat required
is of a very high temperature, as is strikingly illustrated
by the melting of solder off from any tin vessel intro-
duced into the fluid.

Great care is required in trying out, to prevent the oil
from being burnt, and also to guard against the danger
of water getting into the boiling cauldrons, which would
immediately dash up in steam, and throw their contents
around in every direction. Hence this process is very
hazardous in boisterous weather, and appears to be
dangerous enough at any time. When the oil has been
boiled sufficiently, it will crepitate sharply if a little
water is sprinkled upon it. The scraps are now taken
out, and thrown into a tub with a perforated bottom to
allow the oil to drain from them. They then look like
pieces of fried pork, and taste very much like it, as I can
testify from experience. Fresh pieces of blubber are now
introduced into the pots, and the oil is bailed out into
the cooler, a large rectangular, copper vessel, capable of
holding from six to ten barrels, provided with a stopcock
fixed into the side with a perforated plate before it to
prevent the escape of fine scraps that may happen to be
floating about. The oil is drawn off from the cooler
into the deck pot, a large, spare iron pot, from which,
while warm, it is poured into the casks, which shrink as
the oil grows cold, thus allowing the hoops to be forced
on farther than they could otherwise be driven.

In trying out a whale, the respective watches are
upon duty six hours instead of four, and of course, have
a watch below of six hours. The fatigues of this part of

68 WHALING SCENES. •

whaling are so great, that the ordinary rest of four hours
duration, is insufficient to revive the men.

Tuesday, December 3. The process of trying out
continued without cessation, until yesterday afternoon,
when after this laborious business was completed, the
tubs, knives &c, were removed below, and the ship
received a thorough scouring fore and aft, with strong
alkali and sand applied with the scrub brooms. And
indeed she required it, for the muddy scurf from the
exterior of the whale uniting with the oil, does not
improve the appearance of anything with which it comes
in contact. The " trying out," was not however, so
disgusting an operation as I had anticipated, as the
cutting up of blubber and handling it, is confined to the
waist and forward parts of the ship.

The day after trying out is usually given to the crew
of whalers, for the purpose of washing their clothes and
cleaning themselves, and also as a period of rest after the
fatigues they have just passed through. With the
exception of manning the wheel and the mastheads
therefore, no duty is required of the men.

CHAPTER V.

CROSSING THE LINE.

Disagreeable and cruel tricks formerly practised on the
"Green Horn" — Ceremonies of initiation into the myste-
ries of Neptune — Novel and interesting aspect of the
starry heavens in another hemisphere — Delightful weather
— Phosphorescence of the sea.

Wednesday, December 4. We crossed the Equator
sometime this forenoon, in about thirty degrees West
Longitude. We were expecting to do this, last Sunday,
but the delay occasioned by the taking of whales &c.,
carried us so far from our course, that we have ever
since been occupied in making the sixty or eighty miles
that intervened before reaching the line.

The crossing of the line, is considered an important
event in a " greenhorn's" life. It was formerly customary
to compel him to pass through many disagreeable cere-
monies in order to initiate him into the mysteries of
Neptune, and to propitiate the favor of his godship
upon his future career over the ocean. In some ships it
is still allowable to play all manner of tricks upon the
novice, whatever may be his station aboard the vessel.
If he happens to be of a very susceptible character, his
imagination is stimulated by vivid descriptions of Nep-
tune, and his awful appearance to the uninitiated, while
crossing the line. Marvellous tales are also told him of
the wrath of the deity which has always been displayed
towards those, who upon this occasion refused to do

70 CROSSING THE LINE.

homage to his resistless sovereignty over the ocean. If
the aspirant is particularly ignorant and credulous, he is
induced to go aloft and remain there all day to look out
for the line, which he expects to find accurately drawn
upon the face of the waters, by the hand of old father
Neptune. The night before crossing, in particular, he
is told to be on the watch for Neptune's light, which is
always displayed near the Equator: and sure enough,
during the evening, he discerns a bright light dancing
upon the billows, not far from the ship, looking to his
excited imagination like the lamp of some weird spirit.

This is but the commencement of the ceremonies.
After undergoing a plentiful ablution in the briny ele-
ment, administered by bucketsfull, he is blindfolded to
await the awful presence of the king and queen of the
ocean. Seated upon a board placed across the top of a
large tub filled with salt water, he is presented with a
huge tin trumpet, which he raises to his mouth and
thunders forth, " Neptune a-hoy !" when a bucket of
salt water is dashed into the mouth of the trumpet,
accompanied by a push over backwards, which plunges
him into the water underneath, headfirst, and he scram-
bles out of the tub, almost strangled to death, with a
most natural horror of the arcana of Neptune. As he
recovers, his majesty makes his appearance over the
side of the ship, arrayed in a fanciful costume,
with long streamers of seaweed entwined in his hair,
and bearing on high his mystic trident. He is accom-
panied by Mrs. Neptime in the attire of the Queen
of the Mermaids, and her presence is hailed with enthu-
siastic devotion by all the genuine salts who have passed
through the ordeal of initiation.

After their majesties have mounted upon their thrones,
(the tryworks for instance,) the novice is brought before

INITIATION CEREMONIES. 71

them and compelled to answer a great variety of ques-
tions, (for his majesty is extremely inquisitive,) and
should he persist in keeping his mouth shut, his tacitur-
nity is broken by a thump under the chin. If he opens
his mouth and becomes communicative to too great a
degree, a stopper is introduced by one of his majesty's
attendants, consisting of the most disgusting materials
that can be collected together. The candidate is also
often subjected to the process of being shorn by the mis-
chievous attendants of the irresistible sea god. A piece
of an iron hoop is produced, together with a bucket of
" slush " and tar, which is plentifully daubed over the
face of the novice, and scraped off with the iron hoop !
He is now instructed in a few wholesome rules, such as
not to smoke his pipe upon the quarter deck — when he
goes aft to take the lee side of the deck, &c, each article of
the code being pounded into his comprehension and re-
membrance by a tremendous thump on the back. — As
the grand finale which gives him an indisputable claim
to the title of seaman, he is u keel-hauled ," i. e. a rope
is « bent " around his body, and he is thrown overboard to
be drawn under the ship and hauled up on the other
side ! He is now considered as regularly inducted into
the mysteries of Neptune, after having sworn " by the
pumps, the chains, the channels, and all abaft the miz-
zen rigging " to observe all the requisitions of the sea
god.

These disagreeable and cruel ceremonies, which were
formerly observed very generally, have for the most part
become disused. On board the North America, nothing
of the kind was tolerated. With the exception of Nep-
tune's light, which was discovered upon the waters last
Saturday night, as the handiwork of Mr. Freeman, no
attempt was made to play tricks upon the green horns.

72 CROSSING THE LINE.

Thus we have crossed the line, and at this moment
are fifteen or twenty leagues southward of it. I have
just been upon deck to take a look at the stars. The
north star, that has been slowly descending in the sky,
evening after evening, has sunk below the horizon,
and with it the remembrance of home brought so vividly
to mind in the evening sky, and the fond associations
the silent stars are calculated to inspire, have seemed to
set.

Saturday ^ Dec. 7. We are now about seven degrees
to the southward of the equator, and the mild air of the
trade wind is impelling us forward over a smooth sea.
The days are lengthening rapidly, and the temperature
of the atmosphere is most delightful, the thermometer
ranging at seventy-six or eighty degrees in the shade.
It is most refreshing to sit in the shadow of the sails, and
inhale the exhilarating breeze, and to view the ocean
breaking into bright waves with snowy crests, and to
trace the serene sky shading off into mellow light until
it meets the deep blue waters, where it is reflected in
their heaving undulations.

I have often at night, leaned over the ship's side and
for a long time watched the phosphorescent spangles
that seemed to dance upon the sea, as it has been agita-
ted by our progress over the depths. Even in our lati-
tude at home, sea water phosphoresces beautifully when
agitated ; but this exhibition is faint in comparison with
what we have in these tropical regions. Around the
bow, along the side, and in the wake of the ship, the sea
seems to be on fire. Countless spangles emerge from
the troubled waters, while brilliant phosphorescent
flashes and globes of light of great size, illuminate the
ship's path. Occasionally a wave breaks at a distance
from the vessel, and from its crest issues a ball of light

PHOSPHORESCENCE. 73

that seems to play upon the dark waters like the flicker-
ing rays of the ignis fatuus. The porpoises and other
animals that sport around the ship, leave a luminous
train after them, winding frequently in serpentine curves.
There is also in these latitudes a gelatinous substance, a
species of the medusa?, called by the seamen the "sea
cucumber" from a resemblance to the garden cucumber
in size and shape. It exists in vast quantities within the
tropics, and when disturbed by the ship, emits a brilliant
phosphorescence. In rough weather it is often thrown
upon deck, and rolls down to leeward like a fire-ball.

CHAPTER VI.

CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

Fall in with the " Messenger " of New-Bedford — Sickness on
board this ship — medical practice of sea-captains — fall in
with the " William and Eliza" — Social habits of whalers —
Whaling Scenes — Versatility of talent requisite for an
accomplished seaman — Dress and manners of the crew — Mr.
Freeman's soirees — Annoyances on ship-board — Christmas —
Mechanical employments of the men.

Tuesday, Dec. 10. Upon going on deck this morn-
ing after breakfast, we saw a ship upon our weather
quarter standing towards us, and from her taking in sail,
concluded she was desirous of speaking us ; accordingly,
we hauled our maintopsail aback, awaiting the approach
of the stranger. She came down beautifully before the
wind, and passing close astern, clewed up her main
course, and backed her maintopsail within a short dis-
tance to leeward. She proved to be the " Messenger of
New-Bedford," and as she passed us, we were hailed by
her captain, who requested Captain K. to come on board
his ship and prescribe for the mate who was lying dan-
gerously sick.

A boat was soon in readiness, and by Capt. Richards's
invitation, I accompanied him on board the " Messen-
ger." The neat exterior of this little ship (her tonnage
is less than three hundred) corresponded with what we
saw on board of her. The deck was white and clean,
and every thing was in good order and nicely painted.
We descended into a handsome, light, and airy cabin,
with ranges of state rooms upon each side. The pantry

SICKMAN. 75

door stood open, displaying the culinary furniture taste-
fully arranged upon the shelves.

In one of the state rooms lay the sick man. He had
been laboring under a violent fever for a long time,
which had affected his mind, so that it was with some
difficulty we were able to ascertain his exact state of
feeling. The fever appeared to have abated, owing to
his having taken an emetic which reduced the febrile
symptoms.

Capt. Kendrick, of the Messenger, said that he knew
nothing of the treatment necessary, and requested Capt.
R. to prescribe whatever he thought proper. It is a
wonder indeed, that sailors escape the effects of disease
as often as they do, since they are out of the reach of
medical advice for so long a time. Every master of a
vessel is the physician and surgeon aboard his ship ; his
medicines are all numbered corresponding to certain
numbers in a little pamphlet of directions accompanying
them, and whenever necessary, he makes a selection ac-
cording to the best of his judgment.

After prescribing what we thought his case required,
and directing the invalid to be kept cool, we went down
the ship's side into our boat, after agreeing with the
master of the Messenger to sail in company with him
for a few days. Soon after we regained the North
America, the Messenger stood off until her hull sank
below the horizon ; then hauling her wind, she contin-
ued on the same course parallel with us all day.

Towards evening, she gradually drew up within a
couple of miles of us, and hung out her signal lantern
which was answered from the North America.

It is a very pleasant thing to sail in company in this
way. A long voyage is relieved of its tedious monotony,
and you feel that you are not alone upon the wide

76 CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

waters, but that there are those near you who welcome
you with an interest that nothing but a long seclusion
from society can inspire. By the way, I have said
nothing about my medical pursuits, since leaving the
United States. Having always had a penchant for
medical studies, I brought among my books for the
voyage, several works upon medicine, which have been
studied with great interest. In several cases of sickness
that we have had, Capt. R., has had confidence enough
in me to consult me, and very fortunately, in every
instance my suggestions have proved successful ; so that
I have become a sort of doctor on board ; and having a
medicine chest of my own, containing some medicines
not found in the ship's chest, I have had no small run
of practice for a tyro.

Wednesday, Dec. 11. Our consort preserved her
distance from us until about one o'clock this afternoon,
when she luffed up towards us, for the purpose of speak-
ing us. Upon nearing us, she hovp. to, and we went
astern of her, communicating with Capt. Kendrick, who
requested us to come on board his ship again, and take
a look at his mate. Capt. Richards requested me to go
ofT to the Messenger with the second mate. Just as we
were leaving the North America, another ship, which
had been in sight all the morning, astern of us, now
came up and rounded to under our lee. The sea was
very " rugged," and we mounted upon the ridges of the
rolling billows, and descended again, while the huge
waves threatened to engulf us, until we reached the
Messenger. Mounting in a boat upon the surges of the
open ocean, is a very different matter from gliding along
on the smooth waters of our bays or sounds.

We found the invalid somewhat better, although
having never been sick before, he was inclined to be

SHIP WILLIAM AND ELIZA. 77

despairing of recovery and faithless in the efficacy of
medicines ; a moderate supply of faith would render his
case altogether more encouraging, as a confident reliance*
upon the efficacy of medicine is often, I have no doubt,
of more avail than the medicine itself.

Returning to the North America, Capt. Richards
invited me to accompany him on board the other ship,
the " William and Eliza," of New Bedford ; her captain
had some time previously broken his leg, and requested
Capt. R., to give his advice respecting it. We boarded
the stranger, and found the master sitting upon deck,
looking much better than we had expected to see him.
Both bones of the lower part of the leg near the ankle,
had been fractured, but the fracture was healing in a
very favorable manner. We were conducted into a very
handsome cabin, where we had some conversation about
the news from home. The captain of this ship had been
out from thirty to thirty five days, but had taken no oil.
The news he gave us, that all the banks were upon the
eve of suspending specie payments, was of no very
agreeable character, as may be easily imagined.

We were obliged to decline the very pressing invita-
tion of the captain to take supper with him, as Capt. R.,
was unwilling to remain away from his ship in rough
weather. We did so much against our will, as the
promise of " fresh grub," was exceedingly tempting, after
the liberal exercise we have had upon « salt junk " for
some time before. A large pig was hanging up ready for
cooking, while an abundance of goats, ducks &c, ren-
dered it the more trying to resist the Captain's earnest
solicitations to take supper with him.

Every thing looked neat and in excellent order aboard
the « William and Eliza," and I left her with very favor-
able impressions of the New Bedford whalers.

78 CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

It is customary for the masters and officers of whalers,
while cruising upon the same "grounds," to make
frequent interchanges of visits. Towards evening the
ships draw near to one another, to allow their officers an
opportunity of having a "gam," which continues some-
times to a late hour, when all their various whaling
adventures are narrated over a good supper, got up in
the best style the ship can exhibit.

With regard to my newly acquired title of " doctor,"
which was given me aboard these ships, I must say that
I have been enabled to bear the honor with all becoming
humility. It was, however, with some difficulty that
I kept my countenance, when they invited the "doctor"
down into the cabin to see the invalids. On board the
" William and Eliza," the mate came up to me and said,
"Well, doctor, what do you think of the mate of the
Messenger ? Do you think there is any probability of
his recovery?" Upon which, assuming a professional
air, that would have been creditable to an old practitioner,
I answered without hesitation — " Yes, certainly, he will
be well enough before long, if nothing happens unfavor-
ably ;" an opinion not far from the truth, and generally
applicable in all cases of sickness.

Aboard the "William and Eliza," I was asked several
questions about the Captain's leg, which would have
puzzled me, were it not that I had picked up a little
anatomy from the college lectures, and was master of a
few facts and terms which passed, at such a distance from
the faculty, for a profound knowledge of the healing art.

Thus much in vindication of my title of " doctor." In
the enjoyment of this dignity, I am not alone, however,
on board. Mr. Freeman, among his cognomens of
"Spot," "Jumbo," "Congo," and "Skillet," receives the
title of " Doctor," by virtue of his office, not from his

SOCIAL HABITS OF WHALERS. 79

medical abilities, but from his talent for uniting together
marvellous ingredients in the compounds he prepares.

Friday, Dec. 13. Yesterday, about noon, a large
school of Sperm Whales was seen directly ahead about
four miles off, moving very rapidly to windward, having
been "gallied"or alarmed by the " Messenger," which
ran in among them before they were perceived. We
set our maincourse, flying gib and spanker, and braced
up sharp upon the wind, with the hope of having an
opportunity of "going on to them." It was a very
animating scene on board ; the men sprang to their
stations with great alacrity, and "there she blows,"
" there she breeches," " there goes flukes," was echoed
from thirty deeply interested spectators.

Early in the afternoon, a large whale was seen imme-
diately under our lee beam, about half a mile off. The
boats were soon in chase, but after an unsuccessful
pursuit of an hour and a half, they returned, having
rested upon their oars for nearly half an hour, while
the whale was " down." He was a large animal, and
would have made probably, sixty or severity barrels
of oil.

This morning, our consort was observed to have
backed her maintop-sail, an indication that something
was seen, and accordingly we bore down for her. As
we neared her, we saw that her boats had not been
lowered, and seeing no whales, we luffed up into the
wind and stood off in another direction. Just then,
"There she blows," was sounded and repeated from
the masthead; and within a couple of miles off our
lee bow, a large school of sperm whales was seen
blowing in frequent jets d'eau, and moving rapidly
away from the ship. The boats were soon lowered,
and came up with them just as they went down,

80 CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

when they " hove up" to await their reappearance. In
a short time a large whale is seen heading to windward
of the school. The boats are shooting after him with
bending oars — one of them takes the lead and by a
desperate effort, ranges up alongside the whale — the
boatsteerer darts his harpoon, but the weapon glances
harmlessly across the back of the monster, which disap-
pears in a long line of white foam.

After this failure, the whales were too shy to allow
the boats to come near them, and they were recalled.
The general disappointment in the prospect of capturing
a whale that would make seventy barrels of oil, may be
easily imagined. This is the second opportunity this
boatsteerer has misimproved in a similar manner ; and if
another failure like this should happen, he will incur
the risk of being turned before the mast, and one of the
foremost hands substituted in his place. A failure like
this is a serious loss, since a sperm whale large enough
to make seventy barrels of oil, is worth not far from
two thousand three hundred dollars.

It is every man's interest to exert himself to the utmost ;
for in the whaling business it is almost universally the
custom to ship men upon shares. Each man, from
Captain to green hand, ships for a certain " lay" or share
in the profits of the voyage, which is calculated when
the ship returns home. The Captain for instance,
receives an eighteenth perhaps ; the mate a forty fifth,
down to the green hand, who gets only a hundred and
sixty fifth of all the oil obtained during the voyage.
This stimulates all to do their best, and enables them
to sustain the great fatigues they are called upon to
encounter, without murmuring.

Monday, Dec. 16. — This morning, judging by the
maneuvres of the " Messenger," that whales were in

WHALING SCENES. 81

sight, we bore down for her, and when about half a mile
off, we saw several spouts, not a great distance from the
ship. Immediately the ship was rounded to, and three
of the boats were lowered. Upon reaching the place
where the whales had made their appearance, the boats
" hove up" to await their coming up to blow. In the
mean time, the " Messenger's" boats passed by us and
followed our boats in the chase. They had nearly
reached the latter, when Capt. R., and myself, (who
had stationed ourselves upon the foretopsail yard)
discovered whales blowing about a mile off on our lee
beam. A signal was instantly made to the boats, by the
man at the main-top-gallant mast head, and they were
springing at the oar, while Capt. R., put off in his boat.
A man is stationed at the main-top-gallant mast head,
with a " waif," a balloon about eighteen inches in diam-
eter, fastened upon the end of a rod, with which he
points in the direction of the whales.

The whales were not seen after this, and all the boats
returned to their respective ships, to console themselves
for their disappointments by hopes of future success.

As we came up from dinner, we found all the crew
gathered upon the forecastle, and merrily singing out,
" There she blows, There she blows," in a very musical
chorus.

Again the boats were lowered, and in pursuit, with
every prospect of success, as the whale or whales, were
but a short distance off. But after a fruitless chace of
two or three hours, they returned, the men almost
exhausted from the severe labors of the day.

The Captain has determined to cruise for some time
in this region. Upon three days out of five, we have
seen schools of sperm whales, although we have taken
nothing, a fair specimen of the alternate hopes and

S2 CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

disappointments attendant on a whaler's life. Whales
are rarely seen oftener than once a week, even in the
best "cruising grounds" of the Pacific, and sometimes
month after month intervenes, without discovering a
single whale.

I have been thus minute in transcribing daily occur-
rences, to exhibit the excitement and animation that
pervade a whaleship, whenever whales are seen, and also
to represent the toilsome duties connected with the whal-
ing business. There is no mode of life, it appears to me,
requiring so great a variety of talent, as the seafaring busi-
ness. Every sailor must be a "jack of all trades ;" he must
have mechanical talent sufficient for making all repairs
upon the sails, rigging, iron and woodwork of the ship ;
and as he is absent from port for months together, he
must have a talent for shoemaking and tailoring. With
regard to the mending of old clothes, the crew are
indefatigable. Coats and pantaloons which a tailor in
any christian country would pronounce to be » unsea-
worthy," they work upon, and cover over with patches
of various colors, until not a vestige of the original is
left. Flannels are variegated in a wonderfully fanciful
manner by the many gay colors with which they are
darned. The performances of the men with their
needles, are however by no means contemptible.

A genuine son of the ocean, can almost always be
recognized by his costume and balancing gait. He
disdains the confinement of a pair of suspenders which
would impede the action of his arms in pulling and
working about the rigging ; but his pantaloons of very
ample dimensions, fit tight to the waist, and are secured
by a leathern belt, buckled around him, attached to
which is his inseparable companion, a " sheath-knife"
with a blade about six inches long. This he constantly

HABITS OF SAILORS. 83

uses in his employment about the ship, and when his
dinner is ready, it carves his meat.

The dialect on board would be very amusing to a
landsman. For "ladling out soup from the turreen,"
they would say, "bailing out soup from the keeler."
The sounding lead is called the "blue pigeon," and the
signal flag for a pilot, displayed at the foremast head,
goes by the name of "Blue Peter." A quadrant re-
ceives the very undignified and unphilosophical name
of a " hog-yoke." There are also numerous phrases ta-
ken from the maneuvres of a ship, and nautical similes
are introduced into conversation, some of which are ex-
tremely forcible, if well understood. Living upon an
element, every aspect of which is an object of solicitude
to him, the sailor becomes a close observer of what takes
place around him ; and accustomed to face danger in
some of its most terrific forms, he acquires a hardihood
of character, and an independence of mind, which the cir-
cumstances in which he is placed are so well fitted to
produce.

Sailors almost universally make use of tobacco in the
forms of smoking or chewing. Their delicious junk is
carried in their pockets along with a clasp knife, sundry
bits of rope yarn, and a variety of other things. From
the moment they " turn out," a large quid is introduced,
to be renewed as often as occasion requires, until they
" turn in " again. Some of the men have laid in from
fifty to seventy pounds of tobacco as their solace for the
voyage, and will probably have to obtain a fresh supply
from the captain before they return home. It is em-
phatically the sailor's solace in the watches of the stormy
night. In the evening the sailor takes his pipe, and
seated upon the windlass forgets the hardships he

84 CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

constantly experiences in the exhilarating fumes of the
narcotic.

There are over two thousand pounds of tobacco on
board belonging to the ship's stores, all of which will be
applied to the use of the crew, or bartered away with
the natives of the places we happen to visit, in the Pa-
cific, who are said to be exceedingly fond of it.

Thursday, Dec. 19. I have just been upon deck
amusing myself with the performances of Mr. Freeman
upon the violin, accompanied by his sable fellow-min-
strel, the steward. It is a beautiful evening, although
the " struggling moonbeams' misty light " is but dimly
reflected from the waters.

The men were for the most part assembled between
the tryworks and the mainmast, where some sand was
sprinkled upon the deck for the convenience of the dan-
cers. Mr. Freeman was perched upon an inverted
bucket placed in the frame work of the blacksmith's
forge — an apparatus looking very much like those portly
old fashioned arm chairs, that have long since gone out
of date. When every thing was ready, Mr. Freeman
rose up, and with many bows, requested " the gentlemen
to digest themselves into readiness to make a few moles-
tions on the floor." Accompanying this invitation with
sundry flourishes of his fiddle bow, he commenced saw-
ing away in the most enthusiastic manner, but perceiv-
ing that his exertions did not meet with corresponding
effort, he suddenly stopped in the middle of one of his
most brilliant strains, and indignantly enquired "What
ails you there Tom and Dave ; why don't you dance ?
A'nt you going to exasperate (exhibit) a little of the
light fantastic?" This eloquent appeal was irresistible,
and the dance proceeded to our great amusement until
eight bells (eight o'clock) when the fiddle became silent,

ANNOYANCES ON BOARD. 85

and all hands dispersed, with the exception of those on
duty. *

Monday, Dec. 23. For some time past the weather
has been squally and unpleasant. The wind usually
moderates towards night, but in the morning increases
again, and blows fresh about the middle of the day. It
comes from the eastward, and its regular increase and
decrease is owing to the action of the sun's rays, which
in the morning pouring down upon the continent of
South America, rarities the air to such a degree that the
sea air flows in with considerable force, extending two
or three hundred miles beyond the coast ; and towards
night the wind goes down as the sun recedes.

The air is cool and pleasant during the day, but at
night to sleep in my hot and confined state-room, is al-
most impossible. Add to this the annoying presence of
the black-legged gentry about an inch and a quarter
long, that we have taken some slight cognizance of be-
fore. These rascals with their long antennae extending
out upon each side of their eyes, and their wings folded
up, have a truly formidable appearance. They are not
peculiar to ships, however, but are well known, though
unwelcome visiters, in many a kitchen, racing about in
every direction, to the great annoyance of frugal house-
wives. In warm weather they swarm about in prodi-
gious numbers, and at their " gatherings " make a noise
like a flock of quails among the dry leaves of the forest.
They are extremely voracious, and destroy almost every
thing they can find ; their teeth are so sharp, the sailors
say, that they will eat off the edge of a razor.

Thursday, Dec. 26. Yesterday was Christmas, the
commencement of the holidays, celebrated with such
hearty good will by all our dear friends in America.

Early in the morning, Mr. Freeman made his appear-

8

86 CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

ance in the cabin, wishing us all round " Merry Christ-
mas, and that all subsequious occasions might be felici-
tating."

Our dinner was very palatable, although limited to
salt pork and mush, a truly temperate feast for Christ-
mas. Nor were we wreathed with gay festoons of ever-
greens, but around us the deep blue sea breaking in ma-
ny a foaming crest, and sparkling at night with myriads
of golden spangles, was our only drapery.

Owing to the squally weather we had a few days
since, we left our cruising ground in latitude 17° south,
and drove on in a south-westerly course before the wind.
Although we are impelled by a powerful breeze, yet the
heat, particularly at night, is very oppressive in the
cabin. I have been so much incommoded by it for sev-
eral nights past, that I determined to try sleeping upon
deck. Accordingly, with a boat sail, I made a kind of
tent near the stern of the ship, and with my cloak wrap-
ped around me, stretched myself out upon deck to sleep.
I have often before heard of the virtues of a hard bed,
but have never tested them so fully before.

The deck of our ship usually presents a very busy
scene. The blacksmith is plying his bellows and the
cooper and the carpenter have each enough to do in their
respective mechanical employments. No one is allow-
ed to be idle, with one exception, and he often " lends a
hand " whenever he may be of use ; and in studies or
mechanical contrivances, leads a diligent life and makes
the time pass away very pleasantly.
» There is nothing I would urge upon the invalid go-
ing to sea for his health, of so much importance as a va-
riety of regular occupations which shall employ all his
time, and avert the first approaches of ennui. It is the

EMPLOYMENTS OF THE MEN. 87

only way to relieve the otherwise insupportable monot-
ony of a long voyage.

There is always a plenty of work to be done aboard
a ship3 to employ the men in the watch upon deck.
When there is nothing else to do, they pick to pieces
old ropes, and splice together the separate yarns, which
are then twisted together and form spu?i yarn. The
apparatus made use of consists of a heavy wheel of about
eighteen inches in diameter, giving momentum to an
axle about three feet in length upon the end of which
farthest from the wheel, is the spindle, to which motion
is communicated by means of a rope wound around the
axle two or three times, drawn tight, and relaxed alter-
nately, until the required velocity is produced. The
machine is set upon one of the windlass-bitts, and the
yarns lead along the deck as far back as the mizzen
mast. As the spindle revolves, the man who makes the
spun yarn, commencing close to the spindle, moves back-
wards from it, rubbing the yarns vigorously witri^a piece
of cloth dipped in oil, so as to render the spun yarn fine
and smooth. In this way, thousands of yards of spun
yarn are made every voyage, an indispensable article
aboard ship. Three yarns are also often spun together
by means of three spindles to which motion is commu-
nicated by large tooth wheels acting upon three smaller
ones.

All the shrouds and stays of a ship are carefully
protected from the friction of the running rigging, by
being " served" or wound around with spun yarn.
Some of them are covered with mats of spun yarn
woven very neatly together. These are usually home-
made, and the process of manufacture is as follows.

A number of spun yarns corresponding to the required
breadth of the mat, are stretched parallel to one another

88 CRUISE IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

across the deck, passing through a frame work of paral-
lel bars, which retains every other one and allows the
remainder to move freely between them. The person
who works the frame, carries it down, and consequently,
the spun yarns retained by the bars, are thrown down
below the level of the other ; the weaver stands ready
with two balls of twine, which he passes across the
yarns between the separate ranks, and the work is
rendered compact by means of the sioord, a long, thin
piece of hard wood, playing between the ranks of spun
yarn. The frame is now raised, and the same steps are
repeated, until the mat is finished. To prevent the
charing of the rigging and spars, there are other kinds of
mats made use of, as well as " Scotchmen," of various
descriptions. Upon different occasions during the voyage,
the entire rigging is " set up" or tightened, and every few
days some new rope is to be substituted for one which
has become stranded. In the repairing of the sails, the
sewing of rigging, knotting and splicing ropes in every
variety of form, and the care of the boats, the officers find
employment enough for the men while upon duty.
Every Saturday afternoon, the masts are "slushed
down" by the men in their turn, commencing with the
royal masts and descending to the caps of the lower
masts.

During the hours of work, no trifling of any kind is
allowed, and any one seen indulging in " skylarking,"
subjects himself to the danger of being sent aloft, or
stationed at the wheel for many tedious hours, besides
going without his usual allowance.
,: After supper, however, from six to eight o'clock, is the
season for amusements of every variety. The officers
are conversing together in the after part of the ship,
while the men assembled around the windlass, are

EMPLOYMENTS OF THE MEN. 89

smoking their pipes, " spinning yarns," or listening to a
song from Mr. Freeman, or dancing to the sound of his
violin. It is sometimes supposed that but very little
discipline is observed at sea, except aboard a man of
war ; a wrong impression however, for although our
ship makes no higher pretensions than that of a whaler,
yet obedience is as well understood here, as on the decks
of a line of battle ship. It is necessary that such should
be the case ; for in all stations of command over others,
the forms of respect must be rigidly adhered to, or all
authority ceases.

8*

CHAPTER VII.

APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

Gale of wind — Game of these seas — The porpoise — Turtle
— Pilot fish — Squally weather — Preparations for doubling
Cape Horn — Novel aspect of the dhjrnal revolutions, and
of the celestial bodies in these high latitudes — Capture
of an Albatross — Preparations for the cape.

Monday, Dec. 30. — Yesterday morning after a rainy,
uncomfortable night, the wind began to veer around to
the southward, increasing until it blew up into a gale.
The ship was "laid to" under a close reefed maintopsail,
mizzen staysail, and foretopmast staysail with every
prospect of a stormy night. A ship is said to " lay to" in
a gale of wind, when all the sails are carefully furled
with the exception of those that are necessary to enable
her to present her head to the sea, in which case she
surmounts the surges instead of being swept by them.
It is always advisable to carry as much sail as prudence
allows to prevent the ship from rolling to windward, a
situation of particular exposure to the fury of the sea.

About midnight, the wind began to abate, and this
morning we are enjoying a clear and cool atmosphere,
reminding me of a lovely morning in September, at
home, with the white clouds sailing along the pure
depths of the sky.

Soon after breakfast, a school of porpoises was an-
nounced as playing around the bows of the ship. I
watched them for some time indulging in their playful

SEA-GAME. 91

gambols, now springing several feet out of water, then
darting across the ship's path, and returning again with
great velocity. Their sport was not long undisturbed.
One of the boatsteerers stationed himself with a harpoon,
upon the martingale guy under the bowsprit. The
deadly weapon is poised and suddenly darted at two or
three of them in quick succession, as they shoot across
the bow of the ship. At the third plunge of the harpoon,
the poor animal is pierced through the neck, and the
barbed iron is bent completely around and caught upon
the shaft, so that there is no chance for escape. In his
agony he springs out of water, and throws himself
wildly in every direction, while the blood is streaming
out from the deep gashes in his neck. The moment he
is struck, a dozen hands are hold of the line, and the
poor animal is drawn upon deck respiring heavily from
the open wound.

The porpoise belongs to the class cetacea, and of
course is enveloped in blubber, usually about half an
inch in thickness. He is also obliged to rise to the
surface of the sea to breathe, a distinguishing character-
istic of the cetaceous family.

The porpoise is a well known visitant of our harbors
and bays, but this species is somewhat different from
those we meet at sea, of which there are also several
varieties. The specimen we took to-day was of the
most common species. He was about five feet in length,
with strong pectoral fins, thick dorsal fin, and with
broad flukes, moving horizontally like those of the whale.

The Porpoise rarely descends to any great depth, and
is said to manifest a strong aversion to the contentions
of the angry waters in a gale of wind, which he avoids
by an instinctive prescience of its approach. I have heard
that when great numbers of them are seen moving

92 APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

swiftly on a given course, a gale may be expected to
blow up from the quarter from which they came.

" These fleetest coursers of the finny race
When threatening clouds th' etherial vault deface,
Their route to leeward still sagacious form,
To shun the fury of th' approaching storm.

Falconer's Shipwreck.

The blubber was very soon stripped off, and the car-
cass suspended near the cook's galley, to the great de-
light of those that have not tasted any fresh meat since
we left America. Porpoise meat is of a dark color, re-
sembling the liver of land animals, and is as tender as
the tenderest beef steak. The lower jaw of the por-
poise contains a quantity of very fine oil lodged in the
cavities where it unites with the skull bone. It is used
by watchmakers and others for lubricating delicate ma-
chinery. The oil extracted from the blubber is also of
very superior quality, but a single porpoise rarely yields
over a gallon and a half.

The flesh of the whale immediately investing the car-
case, is of a dark purple color, with coarse fibres having
numerous white tendons traversing the mass, and is
hardly considered edible, although his tongue is esteem-
ed a delicacy by those that have seen nothing but "salt
junk" for a long time.

Specimens of the porpoise have been served up at ta-
ble, a dish by no means contemptible. This evening
we partook of rather a novel dish — " flippers " flavored
with porpoise's brains ! I made a very hearty supper,
but was ignorant of the nature of my repast, until it
was afterwards explained to me. Some persons doubt-
less, would be disgusted at the idea of making porpoise
meat an article of food ; but there are many things we con-
ceive a disrelish for from mere prejudice. One part of

SEA GAME. 93

t

the world abhors swine's flesh, while the rest esteem it a
particular delicacy. The natives of some of the Pacific
Islands consider baked dog a great luxury, and a trick
served upon the officers of a certain man-of-war at one of
those islands, shows how far prejudice operates in produ-
cing a preference for certain articles of food, and an an-
tipathy to others. At dinner some of the officers were
exclaiming against the fondness for baked dog exhibited
by the natives at one of their grand leasts, while the
por/c they were feasting upon, they pronounced to be the
best flavored they had ever tasted. Unconsciously to
them, however, a baked dog had been brought upon
the table with a pig's head sewed on in place of his
own ; a deception they did not discover until they had
participated largely in the reprobated dish. Their dis-
gust may be easily imagined.

Tuesday, Dec. 31. The wind this morning died
away, and a calm succeeded with a smooth sea, the first
we have had since we left America. The blue sky was
serene, giving to the wide spreading waters its own
beautiful tint. The air too was delightfully mild, in-
stead of the chilly temperature of yesterday ; and we
were silent and alone upon the mighty waters, save a
distant sail upon our starboard quarter.

To diversify the occasion a turtle made his appearance
on our starboard beam. A boat was lowered and was
darting in pursuit, while I ran up into the mizzen rig-
ging to get a sight of the animal — a glimpse of which I
could just catch as the sunbeams glistened from his
head. He was swimming indolently upon the surface
of the water about half a mile off, and did not appear to
be alarmed at the approach of the boat, until receiving a
thrust of the lance through both shells, he was hauled
on board the boat after some ineffectual struggles to escape.

94 APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

This variety is called the " Logger Head " turtle by
those on board, and I adopt the name from ignorance of
his proper one. He was from eighteen to twenty inches
in length, having a shell much arched, and soft, unfit
therefore, for any use, although it resembled in color
that used by the combmakers at home. He was very
fat, and made a delicious soup for supper. The meat
was white and very delicate like that of the breast of a
fowl. We are living upon the fat of the ocean ! por-
poise steaks, cutlets and fricassee, with turtle soup intro-
duced very appropos by way of variety.

January 1, 1840. The weather has been calm like
that of yesterday, and several other turtles have been
seen basking upon the surface of the sea. A boat was
lowered for one this afternoon, but he went down just as
he was about to receive his death wound. Another
came very near being run over by the ship this evening,
as he lay motionless and apparently asleep upon the
water.

This morning hearing from some one that a pilot fish
had stationed himself under the bow of the ship, I made
ready a fish line, and placed myself under the bowsprit
to try my luck upon him. After many unsuccessful ef-
forts, and when my patience was nearly exhausted, I
had the pleasure of seeing him fairly hooked.

The pilot fish varies in length from eight to fifteen
inches which was the length of the specimen I captur-
ed. His dorsal and ventral fins are extended backwards
to his tail, near which projects a narrow fin, set horizon-
tally upon each side of his body. His lateral and pecto-
ral fins are large, and the former, together with the ex-
tremities of his tail, are beautifully tipped with white.
The color upon his back is of a deep indigo blue, sha-
ded off into a lighter tint in the lower part of his body,

SEA GAME. 95

having three or four broad bands of a deeper shade, ex-
tending three-fourths of the way around. The pilot
fish is almost always seen in company with the shark
swimming along, side by side with his ferocious mate.
He frequently accompanies ships also, for many hours,
and sometimes, days together, hovering about the bow or
stern, and every little while darting off upon his prey.

Thursday, Jan. 2. The wind has been increasing
since morning, and now blows rather fresh. Towards
the latter part of the afternoon, the welcome cry " There
she bre-e-ches," brought every one upon deck — the ship
was braced up sharp on the wind, and we were dashing
forward to make out what kind of animal it was that
was seen. We stood on for half an hour, and then gave
up the chase, as the alarm was occasioned by a school
of "killers," that were throwing themselves out of water.
They are a species of cetacea considerably larger than
the porpoise, and are so called by the whalers from their
attacking the young of the sperm whale and eating them
up by piece-meal. All marine animals that are not
known to whalers by a particular name, receive the gen-
eral appellation of " spirits."

Monday, Jan. 6. On Saturday last, rain fell at inter-
vals all day. When I arose in the morning, I perceived
an unusual color in the ocean ; it was of a greenish tint,
unlike the deep blue over which we have been travers-
ing, and I attributed it at first to the clouds which tint
the sea with many a varied hue. Capt. R., however, in-
formed me that the change in the color of the sea was
owing to the comparative shallowness of the water, al-
though we were still off soundings. Nearer in shore are
extensive banks like the Newfoundland banks, which are
frequented by right whales at certain seasons of the
year to feed upon shrimp, blood-red animalculae that

96 APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

sometimes spread for acres upon the surface of the
sea.

Towards night, the wind hauled around to the south
south west, and came in strong puffs, increasing into
a gale before morning. The pitching and rolling of
the ship, made my sleep very irregular, and as I held
myself in my berth, the progress of the gale could
be easily traced not only by the roar of the wind
growing louder and louder, but also by the orders
for taking in sail after sail. I was not fully aware of
the violence of the gale however, until the command
from the officer of the watch, " Take in the foresail,"
indicated that the wind was rising into a heavy blow,
that began to savor of Cape Horn.

Between sleeping and waking however, the night
passed away, and at an early hour I went upon deck.
The sea was lashed into foam, and breaking in broad
white crests, from which the spray was blown like sleet
in winter on shore. There was a heavy swell also which
occasionally threw the ship over on her side so far, that
the sea came pouring in over the lee rail and dashing
across the deck, when she righted again. The boats had
all been raised up so as to touch the davits from which
they are suspended, and then " turned down," with the
keel outwards, which protects them from the sea in a
storm. The watch upon deck were all collected together
aft, as all the forward part of the ship was repeatedly
flooded with the seas that broke over her. We were
" lying to" under the mizzen staysail, close reefed main-
topsail and fbretopmast staysail. About ten o'clock,
wore ship around on the other tack with her head
pointing towards the continent. The gale was at its
height about noon, when it blew much harder than it
has done since we left the United States. Towards

PREPARATIONS FOR THE CAPE. 97

evening, it moderated down, and to-day (Monday,) there
has been a perfect calm, with not wind enough to steady
the ship, and she has floated like a log upon the water,
tossed about by the swell that still continues high.

The temperature of the atmosphere yesterday, was
cold, and judging from my feelings, 1 presume the ther-
mometer would have stood in the neighborhood of thirty
two degrees, or the freezing point. The wind was very
piercing, the more so from our sudden transition from a
warm atmosphere. To day, however, the air has been
mild, and this evening as the sun was setting behind the
heaving ocean, in golden splendor, a light breeze sprang
up from the north-east and wafted us on our course.

For several days past, many birds of various kinds,
have followed in the wake of the ship, and during the
gale of yesterday, a large flock hovered around us. They
are about the size of wild ducks, and skim beautifully
over the bursting wave, or rise swiftly upon the rushing
storm. Often they alight and ride over the billows as if
the ocean were their native realm. To-day, a couple of
Albatrosses, a large bird, peculiar to the south seas, took
a circuit around us, then sailed slowly away, until we
lost sight of them in the distance.

A large school of porpoises passed us this afternoon,
numbering forty or fifty, I should think. They ran
under the ship, then darted off, frequently springing out
of the water to the distance of fifteen or twenty feet, and
exhibiting a dozen or more in the air at a time.

Tuesday, Jan. 7. Latitude at noon 40° 08'. It has
been blowing hard from the north all day, with some
indications of another gale, and we are now making
active preparations for the weather we expect to contend
with off Cape Horn. This morning the royal masts were
sent down, the anchors brought in upon deck and

98 APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

secured, and the spars and rigging were fully examined,
and if defective, repaired. The waist and bow boats
were also taken aboard and turned keel upwards upon
the tryworks.

There are many ships, particularly merchantmen,
that do not send down their lofty spars to insure them
against the risk of being carried away off Cape Horn.
But to the sperm whaler, who is to be absent for several
years from home, and whose wanderings often lead him
out of the reach of assistance, these precautionary mea-
sures are the part of wisdom.

Wednesday, Jan. 8. Latitude at noon, 43° 39',
exhibiting a difference of latitude of 3° 31' during the
last twenty-four hours ; as our course has been oblique to
a meridian, the distance sailed over since yesterday noon
is somewhat greater than this.

Large flocks of birds are following in our wake, and seve-
ral schools of porpoises have been sporting in merry gam-
bols around our bow ; one of the latter was struck this morn-
ing, but he made his escape, as the iron " drew" or tore
out of the wound in his violent struggles. In such
cases, it is said the wounded animal is immediately
pursued and devoured by his voracious comrades. In
allusion to this unnatural propensity of the porpoise, one
of the officers in conversation with me, made use of a
very striking simile ; " if a man's reputation is impaired,"
he observed, "the whole world turn upon him, like
porpoises that instantly attack and devour a wounded
mate."

Monday, Jan. 30. Cold and stormy weather. On
Saturday morning last we were struck by a heavy
squall from the south west which cam* upon us rather
unexpectedly. All hands were called. " Let go the hal-
liards— clew up the topgallant sails — run down the fly-

SUFFERINGS FROM THE COLD. 99

ing gib— brail up the spanker — maintack and sheet let
go and clew up, haul out the reeftackles,— jump up there,
jump up, put two reefs in the topsails, and furl every-
thing snug." Such were the hurried orders that were
issued j in a few moments, however, the squall passed
over and a calm succeeded for a few hours, when the
wind hauled more to the southward, and continued to
increase, until a heavy gale brought us to under short
sail. I have never seen such a sea as there was yester-
day. In every direction, "Like mountains the billows
tremendously swell," and as they came rolling on
in accumulated masses careering with their surg-
ing crests, it was an exhibition of sublimity that
could not fail of impressing the beholder with awe
of the mighty power of the contending elements.
The good ship trembled in every timber at the shock
of the surges that broke in foam from her weather
side, and in one instance, dashed the spray high upon
the main-topsail, a distance of fifty feet. Towards
night, (last night,) wore ship, and headed in for
the continent. In executing this maneuvre, the fore-
topmast staysail sheet became unhooked, and in an
instant the sail split in two with a loud report.

The damp air of the sea is exceedingly penetrating, f
and one feels much colder with the thermometer indica-
ting a given temperature, than he would on shore with
the mercury ranging much lower upon the scale, the hu-
midity impairing the non-conducting powers of his cloth-
ing. Our latitude is about 49° south not far from one
hundred miles to the northward of the Falkland Islands.
The days are very long, and lengthening rapidly ; the
sun now sets after eight o'clock, P. M., and twilight
lingers until long after ten o'clock, when after an inter-
val of a couple of hours, the first indications of dawn are

100 APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

perceptible in the east. It seems very strange to see the
sun rising in the south-east, and, reaching but a low alti-
tude in the north at noon, descend into the sea to the
south-west of us. The moon, too, has the appearance
of having lost her place in the sky, to wander in the
northern regions. The long shadows she casts, and her
dismal light, give to every thing a peculiarly gloomy as-
pect. The Magellan clouds which we saw soon after
crossing the equator, have rapidly risen towards the ze-
nith in our progress southward, and they are now nearly
over head. They are two luminous nebulae, situated
not very far from the southern pole, about 15° apart.
The larger of the two is apparently about five feet, and
the smaller about three feet square.

The nearer we approach Cape Hom, the more nume-
rous are the sea birds that accompany the ship. Yester-
day a speckled haglet or " Cape pigeon," as he is some-
times called, continued near us for a long time, occasion-
ally coming close up to the ship as she " lay to," and
alighting upon the waves, or skimming along over the
boisterous sea with his little web feet.

This morning, I had the good fortune to capture two
albatrosses during the calm that succeeded yesterday's
gale. A long cod line with a corresponding fish hook
is procured, and a float attached to it about two feet from
the end to prevent its sinking. To the hook is secured
a piece of salt pork about the size of one's fist, which is
well " slushed " or greased, to make it the more attractive,
and then dropped astern. If the ship is moving too fast,
the albatross feels a little suspicious of the appearance
of things, and will not alight ; but if the bait just trails
along upon the surface of the sea, after flying around it
two or three times and looking at it carefully, with his
large web feet spread out before him, he dashes down

ALBATROSS. 101

into the water and commences a furious attack upon the
pork. A jerk is given upon the line, and the hook be-
comes fixed in the extremity of his bill ; and then with a
steady and careful pull he is hauled aboard ship. Con-
siderable skill is requisite in order to succeed, for even
after the hook fixes itself into the bill, it is easily detach-
ed, unless a constant strain is kept upon the line.

The albatross, or " gony," as he is called by whale-
men, is an immense bird, and if I mistake not, is found
no where else except in the southern regions.* He is
apparently about twice as large as a common goose, but
this is owing to the dense coat of feathers and down with
which he is invested, which, if taken off, disclose a body
by no means as large as one would suppose from his ex-
ternal appearance. His head and neck are very strong,
and he is armed with a sharp, formidable bill, which he
uses with great power ; sufficient, I have no doubt, to
cut off a man's finger at a single bite. His wings are
very large, and owing to their great extent cannot be
folded up at the side of the bird with much compactness.
His tail is very short and concealed by his immense
wings when they are closed.

The largest specimen captured, measured ten and a
half feet from tip to tip of his expanded wings. His
legs are short, terminating in broad web feet, with
which he moves gracefully about upon the waves. Like
all the anser tribe, his walk is very awkward, and when
aboard ship he is unable to rise from the deck. In ta-
king flight from the surface of the sea, he runs clumsily
along, spattering the water with his broad feet, exhibit-
ing the most awkward efforts to rise. But when, with

* Some accounts I have read of the albatross (Diomedia Exulans) assert
that vast flocks of these birds are to be seen upon the coast of Kamschatka.
(See Encyclopedia Perthensis.)

9*

102 APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

his wide pinions extended to the breeze he seems to sail
along without any apparent exertion, or skims over the
heaving" billows, the motions of the albatross are pecu-
liarly graceful. If kept on board ship for a short time,
the albatross becomes sea-sick, and displays his state
of feeling upon deck, a rather singular circumstance,
as he rides the waves so beautifully in a gale of
wind.

Tuesday, Jan. 14. This morning we were all thrown
into excitement by the welcome cry "There she
blo-o-ws !?' several times repeated from masthead. The
alarm was occasioned by two right whales, being in
sight, three miles or more distant. Though at this dis-
tance, yet the species to which they belong was readily
made out by several characteristics known to the expe-
rienced whaler, which will be noticed upon some future
occasion.

Two of the boats were soon lowered, and the other
two soon afterwards were launched from the try-works
and sprang forward in the pursuit, while the ship was
slowly drawing up towards the scene of action. At one
time the whales came up within a short distance of one
of the boats, which was " hove up " awaiting their* re-
appearance upon top of water. The boat immediately
wheeled around, and running up between them, ranged
along side the larger. The harpoon was raised, but
with the quickness of thought, the whale whirled around
and instantly disappeared.

After continuing the chase for an hour or more to no
purpose, the boat returned. At one time the whales ap-
proached within a stone's throw of the ship : they float-
ed sluggishly upon the water, blowing the spray several
feet into the air, with a heavy respiration, while the
waves of the sea dashed over them in foam.

FIN BACK WHALES. 103

The failure in capturing these whales is a serious dis-
appointment. For although right whale oil is only one
third as valuable as sperm, yet the capture of a right
whale that would make one hundred barrels of oil,
would furnish us with the means of supplying the ship
abundantly with fruits and vegetables in exchange for
it, at those places we expect to visit. What aggravates
the disappointment is the calm and delightful weather
we have had all day, which, though rather cool, is unu-
sually serene for this latitude, and would be very favor-
able for disposing of a " fare " of oil.

The ship has been receiving her Cape Horn sails ;
new sails have been substituted for those that are old
and weak. A main staysail has also been made ready
for the stormy weather we must soon expect. It is a
triangular sail extending from the main top down to the
lower part of the foremast, and is very useful to steady
the ship in a gale of wind with a heavy sea running,
and in some degree supplies the place of the maintopsail
in case it should give way.

Wednesday, Jan. 15. At an early hour this morn-
ing, I was roused from my slumbers by the bustle upon
deck, and by the cries from aloft " There she blo-o-ws
— there she blo-o-ws !" My toilet was soon completed,
and I hurried upon deck, when to my chagrin and dis-
appointment I learned that the alarm was occasioned by
a large number of fin back whales making their appear-
ance three or four miles off, which as I have before men-
tioned are very rarely attacked by the whaler, partly
from the great difficulty of the capture, and partly from
the inferior quality and quantity of the oil obtained from
them. This evening, a whale of this species was seen
within a quarter of a mile of the ship, but was passed
by without farther notice.

104 APPROACH TO CAPE HORN.

Our Cape Horn preparations are completed ; every
thing has been brought up from the hold, that we shall
require during our passage around the Cape, and the
hatches barred down and caulked. We are all clad in
our warmest dresses, for without any fire on board
except what the cook keeps up in the galley, one re-
quires a plentiful supply of warm clothing. The over-
coats worn by sailors, are known by rather whimsical
names. There are two kinds, the baboon jacket, a short
coat without any skirts, and the monkey jacket, differ-
ing from the other in having a kind of ruffle around the
lower edge answering to skirts.

Friday, Jan. 17. In conversing with one of the men
to-day, he informed me that he had been upon the Flo-
rida Coast, in a brig chartered by the United States
Government, for the purpose of carrying military stores
to the army. Among other things, he told me that the
brig was sent with a strong force to search for the bodies
of a detachment of men supposed to have been cut off by
the Indians. The detachment consisted of seventeen
men ; they were bivouacked it seems, upon the bank of
a small river, and were attacked during the night by a
large body of Indians who killed them all to a man.
Instead of scalping their victims, as is customary with
North American Indians, they dug out their eyes, and
abandoned them thus horridly mutilated !

Saturday, Jan. 18. Latitude at noon 51° 52'. Our
progress for a day or two past has been very slow,
owing to the prevalence of light baffling winds from the
south- west, and south south-west. The air is very keen, and
we have no fire on board to mitigate its severity. The
only serious inconvenience I experience, is that my feet are
constantly cold, a sensation I have seldom experienced,
even in the coldest weather of a New England winter.

SUFFERINGS FROM COLD. 105

My fingers too are swollen with that annoying complaint
the "chilblains," so common an occurrence at home,
although usually confined to another part of the system.
We should have had a stove set up in the cabin before
this, were we not deterred by the fear of being overrun by
the black legged gentry that have retreated to the lower
hold during the cold weather.

CHAPTER VIII.

CAPE HORN.

Terra del Fuego — Patagonians— Straits of Magellan — Geo-
graphical position of Cape Horn — Dangers and difficulties
of doubling the Cape — Capricious state of the elements —
Huge Sperm Whale — The carreer albatross — Perils of
Whaling — Sailor's songs.

Monday ', Jan. 20. Land ho ! This morning, as the
mists began to clear away, the bleak cliffs and highlands
of Terra del Fuego and Staten Land, lay before us, not
more than ten or twelve miles distant. Staten Land is
separated from the " land of fire," by the straits De La
Maire, about fifteen miles in width, which are often
passed through by ships outward bound around Cape
Horn. Although it is here the season corresponding to
midsummer, yet the heights are crowned with tracts of
snow, contrasted beautifully with the gloomy aspect of
the cliffs as seen through the waving mists. Upon our
right extended the outline of Terra del Fuego, until it
vanished in the dense fog that rested upon the waters,
while beyond the coast rose a tall, conical mountain,
whose steep sides converged in a narrow, isolated peak.

Upon each side of the Straits of Magellan, live the far
famed race of Patagonians, whose gigantic proportions,
(if we are to believe the accounts of early navigators,)
might rival the Goliahs of antiquity. The visits of recent
voyagers, have stripped them of the marvelous, and they
are now found to be no larger than other people. One

PAT AGO N I AN S. 107

of our boatsteerers was in a ship which passed through
the straits several years since. I had a long conversa-
tion with him about their appearance and manners, and
he confirms the observations I have just made. What
should have induced former voyagers to give such exag-
gerated accounts of the Patagonians, I cannot imagine,
unless it be to gratify the preference of human nature
for the marvelous rather than for what bears the impress
of truth.

This is the first land we have seen since leaving
Fayal, a period of nine weeks. The sight, I need hardly
say, was very acceptable to me at least. Those whose
horizon the vast ocean has bounded week after week, are
apt to feel that these restless waters are their only home.

There is a strong current setting into these straits,
and there is also a tide about these islands ; but with
a fair wind, (an occurrence however somewhat rare,)
the passage may be made without any difficulty.
Terra del Fuego is separated from the main land
by the Straits of Magellan, through which ships occa-
sionally make their way into the Pacific, although
the attempt has been hitherto regarded as rather hazard-
ous from the intricacy of the channel, as well as the
inaccuracy of the surveys.*

We have been endeavoring all day long to pass
through the Straits De La Maire, but have been becalm-
ed until sunset, when the attempt at night was thought
inadvisable, and we are now doubling Cape St. John, the
eastern extremity of Staten Land.

Thursday^ Jan. 23. Light winds and a heavy head

* The United States Exploring Expedition, have made very careful surveys
of the Straits of Magellan and the adjacent islands, which will probably
facilitate the navigation through them, and induce most ships to adopt this
route, instead of the circuitous and hazardous passage around Cape Horn.

108 CAPE HORN.

swell, have kept Terra del Fuego and Staten Land in
sight until this morning, when they slowly disappeared
behind the mists that enveloped them, and Cape Horn with
its isolated Peak and neighboring islands, rose into view.
We have been becalmed all day. a very different recep-
tion from what we might expect from the boisterous
character of the Cape. The clouds have a lowering
aspect, however, and we may yet experience the fury of
old Eolus in this his favorite region. We are unusually
near the Cape, and have a fine view of it, which even
those who have doubled it many times, cannot always
boast of. Capt. R., told me that he had never before
seen Cape Horn, although he had passed around it six or
eight times.

Cape Horn is located upon Hermit Island, a small
island two or three miles in length, rising up into a
cone at the southernmost end, with a line of rocks
extending behind it towards the north. Between this
island and Terra del Fuego, several long and narrow
islands are situated, upon which we observed large fields
of snow, although at the distance of twenty miles.

The passage around Cape Horn, into the Pacific, is
generally very trying and hazardous, owing to the
violent westerly gales and sudden squalls that pre-
vail in those regions. Ships are sometimes detained
here for two or three weeks and even longer, con-
tending against the fury of the elements. To the
howling storm and the raging sea, the iceberg, a
common exhibition, adds new terrors, which the most
careful vigilance cannot always elude. Many a ship
has been crushed between these moving mountains, or
been dashed to pieces upon fields of floating ice, and
every soul perished in these forlorn regions.

Hermit island is not the southernmost land upon the

SINGULAR ROC K — A SQUALL. 109

South American coast ; but the Diego Ramirez Islands,
a cluster of islets, lie a little farther south, as will be
seen by consulting the chart. Latitude of Cape Horn
55° 58' south, longitude 67° 21'. Latitude of the Diego
Ramirez Islands 56° 32' south, longitude 68° 36'.

Friday, Jan. 24. To-day with a light breeze, we
drew up within six miles of the cape, so near that the
breakers dashing against its rocky sides were distinctly
visible. Within a few miles of the cape, in a bay set-
ting into one of the adjacent islands, stands a very sin-
gular rock, which appeared so similar to a steamboat
at anchor, that the resemblance struck every one on
board, and through the glass the likeness was rendered
still more apparent. Upon each side of the rock, a pro-
jection represented the paddle boxes, while a tall, nar-
row rock standing out in bold relief; would pass very
well for the smoke-pipe and upright machinery, thus
completing the fantastic appearance of this little island.
Hermit island, and also the neighboring islands, appear
to belong to the same variety of rock. Through the
glass, they seem like huge masses of trap rock, traversed
by numerous reddish veins.

This evening we had a sharp squall, which we antici-
pated by taking in sail before it struck us. You see a
light mist rising rapidly to windward of you, a signal to
draw in your light sails, or in a few moments the blast
will be down upon you, screaming wildly through the
rigging, while your light spars will be seen flying to lee-
ward, or a topsail be blown with the sound of thunder
from its bolt-rope.

Saturday, Jan. 25. Becalmed all day, and drifting

to the eastward in the current setting around the Cape

from the Pacific. The rain has been falling all day

10

110 CA PE HORN.

with scarcely any intermission, and the cold damp air
which prevails above and below, renders our situation
extremely cheerless. Such a constant succession of
calms in high latitudes, is usually the precursor of a
storm, and we may be many weeks in gaining the few
miles of westing that must be made, before we begin to
point the ship's head to the north.

Sunday, Jan. 6. Saw a large school of sperm whales
early this morning, within a mile or two of the ship ;
there was too much wind and sea, however, to admit of
sending the boats to attack them. Soon afterwards a
sail was seen on our weather bow, coming down before
the wind with fore-topmast and main-top -gallant stud-
ding sails set on both sides, a most enviable sight to us
who were opposed by the wind that was bearing her
gallantly on her course.

Latitude at noon 57° 25' south, longitude 67° 35' west.
The sky was clear this morning, but this afternoon the
weather became thick and rainy, with some prospects of
a gale.

Monday, Jan. 27. Calm weather with scarcely any
wind, accompanied with a heavy swell and frequent
showers of rain. Since yesterday, we have made sixty
seven miles westing from noon till noon.

Tuesday, Jan. 28. Calm weather with showers of
rain occasonally. Longitude 70° 37' west, indicating
twelve miles westing from yesterday noon till to-day
noon.

Wednesday, Jan. 29. Calm and beautiful day, with
occasional " catpaws " or puffs of wind sweeping over
the ocean in every direction. Average of the thermom-
eter 60°. Observed the water teeming with innumera-
ble sparkling flakes, from a size so minute as to be almost
imperceptible to a size as large as a twenty five cent i

PASSAGE AROUND CAPE HORN. Ill

piece. This is a very common phenomenon in a long
succession of calm weather, but is more particularly ob-
servable in tropical regions.

A young albatross was captured this morning which
made an excellent "sea pie," or fricassee for supper, re-
sembling veal in taste, although one or two of the offi-
cers refused to partake of the dish, inasmuch as this bird
lias no gizzard. The less fastidious fared much better,
and made a good supper.

Thursday, Jan. 30. Mild and beautiful day, with a
fine, fresh breeze from the north-east, which has impell-
ed us from sixty to eighty miles on our course in a
north-westerly direction.

Saturday, Feb. 1. For the last forty-eight hours,
strong and favorable breezes, with occasional calms.
The rain has been falling almost all day, and we have
been pursued by a gale of wind from the eastward under
double reefed topsails. We are now twenty or thirty
miles to the northward of Cape Horn, with a favorable
prospect of soon emerging into warmer latitudes. Our
progress westward has been most remarkable, and there
is not a man on board, who has ever seen so favorable a
time in passing around Cape Horn into the Pacific.

Monday, Feb. 3. For the last forty-eight hours, have
had strong breezes from the south-east and south and
south-west, which yesterday afternoon blew up into a
gale, before which we ran under all the sail we dared to
carry, with a heavy sea rolling after us.

The weather has been more moderate to-day, although
squally. Latitude at noon to-day 51° 50', making about
two hundred miles northing for the preceding twenty-
four hours. Our course was in a northwesterly direc-
tion, and the entire distance traversed during that time,
| exceeded two hundred and fifty miles. #

112 CAPE HORN.

We may now consider ourselves fairly around this
much dreaded cape, and launched into the vast Pacific
ocean, with its mighty expanse of waters extending
thousands and thousands of miles to the westward of us,
and set with numerous islands that rise like gems from
its profound depths.

It was regarded as an enterprise of great magnitude to
double Cape Horn, in the times of Captain Cook and the
adventurers that succeeded him. But the great number
of ships, both whalemen and merchantmen, that annu-
ally pass around in safety, have divested it of many of
its terrors, and made it appear much less formidable
than in days of yore. It is still, however, a fearful
place.

During our passage around Cipp. Horn, T haw been
constantly on the look-out for any unusual astronomical
phenomenon, particularly with reference to the doubtful
occurrence of an aurora australis. Nothing remarkable,
however, has been seen, and no aurora has illumined
the sky to the southward of us. The captain and offi-
cers concur in saying that they have never noticed any
thing ofnhe kind while in these regions.

Wednesday, Feb. 5. Latitude at noon 47° 51'. We
were dashing along this afternoon with a fine breeze,
when a large sperm whale was suddenly seen "close
aboard of us," less than a quarter of a mile off. A do-
zen men were instantly hold of the main-clew-garnets—
the main course clewed up and the after sails laid aback,
in a less time than I have been writing about it. Three
boats were then lowered, but soon after seven o'clock,
returned to the ship, as the gathering gloom of the eve-
ning precluded all hope of success.

This whale was of extraordinary size, and displayed

PERILS OF WHALING. 113

the large hump upon his back repeatedly, and several
times threw his broad flukes high out of water.

Friday ', Feb. 7. Latitude at noon 45°. This morn-
ing, I amused myself for a long time in catching alba-
trosses, and was so successful as to capture three^
making seven in all, that we have taken. The
whalers that double Cape Horn, frequently amuse
themselves by catching a number of these birds, and
then letting them go, with an inscription upon a piece
of leather tied around their necks. The inscription is
an exaggerated account of their success in whaling.
For instance, if we were desirous of imitating this vera-
cious practice, we might send off one or two of the alba-
trosses we took to-day with the label " North America,
New London, at sea. Feb. 7, 1840, four months out —
350 bbls. Sp. Oil," whereas if the ship were to be search-
ed, not more than fifty bbls. of oil could be found, of any
kind.

Great numbers of these birds flock around a whale ship,
when " cutting in " the whale, alighting upon the sea, and
swimming around to pick up scraps of blubber that are
floating loosely about. A favorite amusement of the crew
at these times, is to tie a piece of blubber upon each end
of a string, and then to throw it overboard. Each piece
finds a voracious devourer, and then a ludicrous struggle
ensues between them, which terminates in the weaker
party being compelled to disgorge what he had swallowed.

Saturday, Feb. 8. Those whose home is upon " the
trackless main," must of necessity, experience the many
dangers of the capricious element upon which they are
floating. But besides the ordinary dangers of the sea,
the whaler is exposed to peculiar risks of life and limb
in the various duties of his hazardous profession. The
utmost caution is requisite in the attack upon a whale, to

10*

114 CAPE HORN.

guard against danger, and every man must be on the
alert, or success is not only hopeless, but disastrous con-
sequences are very likely to ensue. The line some-
times becomes entangled as it darts from the boat, and
must be instantly severed, or the boat will be carried
down, if the " chock pin " is too strong to break. When
the boats are among a school of whales, they are often
stove by these huge animals; as the boats cannot be
seen when in a line with them, they are frequently
shattered by the powerful head of the whale, before he is
aware of their proximity. The whale in coming up to
blow after being down for some time, shoots up head-
first with great velocity, and instant destruction awaits
that unlucky boat that happens to be immediately over
him. (See frontispiece.) In coming alongside in the
boats, there is no inconsiderable danger, if there is a
heavy swell running at the time ; when these frail
structures are liable to be dashed to pieces against the
ship's side, and their crews are often seriously injured
by being caught between the boat and ship. In " cutting
in" the whale too, lamentable casualties often occur.
Large masses of blubber slide from side to side as the
ship rolls heavily in the sea in rough weather. The
heads of the sperm whales, which are always hoisted
upon deck when practicable, sometimes get loose and
cause great destruction before they are secured again.
The numerous sharp instruments used in every depart-
ment of whaling, are a source of considerable danger,
and many persons annually, receive terrible wounds,
either through their own carelessness or that of others.
One of the officers told me that upon a certain occasion,
while "cutting in" a whale, he was thrown from the
staging, and fell upon the whale, while but a narrow
strip of blubber prevented his sliding off upon the keen,

SONGS. 115

barbed head of a harpoon sticking into the side of the
whale and pointing directly towards him. These are
some of the dangers which the whaler encounters, and
if there are any men worthy of commendation for their
enterprise and intrepidity, he certainly deserves a promi-
nent place among them.

Monday, Feb. 10. Saw this noon, a large school of
black fish, a cetaceous animal resembling the Sperm
Whale somewhat in shape, and varying in length from
five or six feet to twenty two or three feet. Three boats
were sent in among them, but were unsuccessful in cap-
turing any. Latitude at noon, 41° 39'. Temperature
of the air by the thermometer 60°.

Tuesday, Feb. 11. I have often been very much
amused by the cries and songs of the men, when engaged
in hauling away upon the rigging of the ship. The
usual cry is " Ho ! Ho ! Hoi !" or " Ho ! Ho ! Heavo !"
which is sung by some one of them, while the rest keep
time. It has a rather dolorous cadence, and a wildness
that sounds like a note of distress when rising above the
roar of the gale at dead of night.

But there are many songs in common use among
seamen, of a very lively character, which though bereft
of all sentiment and sense in many instances, are per-
formed with very good eifect when there is a long line
of men hauling together. Mr. Freeman usually officiates
as chorister, and with numerous demisemiquavers,
strikes up the song, while all the rest join in the chorus.
Sometimes they all sing together as I have endeavored
to represent, although it must appear very tame without
the attendant circumstances. One of the songs is as
follows : —

116

CAPE HORN

S

*9

fc£££^

■0-m

*t±

Ho ! Ho ! and up she ris • es. Ho ! Ho ! and up she ris - es.

P=ft^£

i

*=f:

^— *-

«

f^4

#-*

Ho! Ho! and up she ris - es, Ear-ly in the morn-iug.

And another song, accompanied with the chorus,
which vies with the song of the troubadours in poetic
sentiment.

Chorus

Nan - cy Fan - an - a, she mar - ried a bar - ber, Heave her a • way, and

?:£

M:

•*— #:

heave her a - way ! Hur • rah ! Hur - rah ! for Nan - cy Fa-

Chomi

£

S

na • na. Heave her a - way ! and Heave her a - way !

There are many other songs that might be very easily
mentioned, which, however, like a good proportion of
our parlor songs are rather insipid without the music.
The songs of sailors, when sung with spirit and to the
full extent of their fine sonorous voices, add new vigor
to their exertions, as the heavy yards and sails are
mounting upwards.

CHAPTER IX.

HUNTING AND FISHING SCENES,

Ambrose Island — Immense flocks of birds — Great fishing —
Capture of a fur seal — Sea birds — Capture of a black
fish — Boat carried down by a whale.

Wednesday, Feb. 19. Last evening the dim outline of
Ambrose Island, was just discernible at sunset. During
thp night nnrW easy sail, with a light wind, we drew
up slowly towards the island, and were becalmed almost
all the forenoon.

After dinner, Capt. R., invited me to accompany him
on a fishing and hunting excursion. Accordingly, with
our guns and fishing tackle, we jumped into his boat
and pulled for the Island, then about six miles distant.

Ambrose Island belongs to the St. Felix group, situa-
ted in latitude 26° 20' S., and is about 600 miles from
the coast of Chili. It is a desolate rock with scarcely a
sign of vegetation, rising abruptly with precipitous and
craggy sides, to a height of five hundred feet or more,
while the heaving billows of the ocean are continually
roaring at its base. From the main body are detached
several large rocks, forming fanciful arches, among
which the surf was boiling and dashing the spray high
up into the air. The incessant action of the sea, had
worn deep cavities into the solid rocks and labarynthine
passages, from which the mists spray puffed out in many
beautiful jets d'eau. These solitary islands of the ocean

113 HUNTING AND FISHING SCENES.

are favorite places of resort to innumerable sea birds
that rear their young upon the recesses of the projecting
cliffs, and derive their food from the sea.

Great numbers of birds about the size of our pigeons
came off to meet us, and hovered over us so near to the
boat, that I knocked several of them down with a short
stick I had in my hand. The most numerous variety
was the "Booby," as he is called by the sailors, a bird
about the size of a goose. We shot several of them ;
there are two varieties, the white and the grey Booby,
differing in color only. The grey Booby has an elonga-
ted body, grey back, white breast, strong and sharp bill
of a greenish yellow color. He measures from tip to
tip of his expanded wings about five and a half feet,
and from the extremity of his bill to the end of bis tail
about two feet and a half. The Booby is a very sleepy
bird, and frequently alights upon the yards and booms
of a ship, when he becomes an easy captive. He is a
very active fisher, however, darting from a great height
with astonishing velocity into the water, and even diving
for some distance beneath the surface to seize the fish
upon which he preys.

We coasted along the shore of the island, stopping fre-
quently to catch fish, which were very abundant, and
some kinds were tinged with beautiful hues. The birds
also, were very active, diving down into the water a few
yards from us, and coming up with a fish in their mouths
about the size and hue of the gold fish we have in our
glass globes at home. As we were moving along the
shore, we came to a deep grotto overhung with frown-
ing rocks. Upon entering it, our attention was arrested
by a large animal lying asleep upon the rocks close by us,
which Capt. R. instantly recognized as a fur seal. The
head of the boat was run up to the rock, while the old

BLACK Flsn. 110

seal and her cub began to exhibit signs of life by dis-
playing their teeth and setting up a furious growl.
With a blow upon the nose from the boat-hook, the dam
was laid senseless upon the rock, while the cub took to
the water and made off with himself, swimming farther
into the grotto, but after considerable difficulty, we suc-
ceeded in capturing him also. The old seal measured
over five feet in length, and the cub about two feet and
a half. The fur of seals taken in these latitudes is
shorter than that of colder climates. These skins, how-
ever, would be valued at eight or nine dollars at home.

We returned to the ship, shooting several birds on our
passage, highly gratified with the varied amusements of
the afternoon, and at supper feasted ourselves upon the
fine fish we had taken, and the flesh of the young seal,
which was tender and delicate like that of a pig.

Friday, Feb. 21. This afternoon the boats ran into
a school of large black fish, and succeeded in " fasten-
ing " to two of them. One of these made his escape, as
the harpoon " drew " from the wound in his violent ef-
forts to get loose, although he must have died subse-
quently. The other after "sounding" for some time
rose upon the surface of the water, apparently dead, at a
short distance from the boat, which immediately ranged
along side to use the lance. At that moment he com-
menced his " flurry," and knocking the oars from the
starboard side, he thrust his unwieldy head across the
gunner of the boat, filling her half full of water, to
the terror of the men, some of whom jumped overboard.
In his agony and furious convulsions, the boat bucket
was stove, and the boat somewhat injured ; but before
she had become full of water, he darted off" in another
direction, while the men and oars were picked up by one
of the other boats. The black fish soon " turned up," and

120 HUNTING AND FISHING SCENES.

was secured by a rope fastened around his flukes. Unfortu-
nately, however, the bowline slipped, and to the mortifi-
cation of the boatsteerer, the animal was lost, as his spe-
cific gravity is greater than that of the water. Several
days since we lost a large black fish by the " drawing of
the iron," the line passing too closely around the logger-
head of the boat, while the animal was in his "flurry."
Many whales are lost in this way, after being struck, and
there are some kinds of whales that almost always sink
after they are killed ; for instance, the hump back whale,
and not unfrequently, the right whale. These whales
are almost always found in comparatively shoal water,
particularly the former variety. They generally remain
beneath the surface for three days after they are killed,
when they become buoyant enough to rise and are
claimed by the ship that remains in the neighbor-
hood, anxiously awaiting their re-appearance. The
sperm whale, when captured, very rarely sinks, but
when he does, he is never recovered.

Several very melancholy instances have been told me
of the loss of boats with all their crews, by being taken
down suddenly with the whale, along side of which it
was lying during the night. The men perished misera-
bly by drowning, or being devoured by the voracious
sharks that gather in great numbers around the carcase
of a dead whale.

CHAPTER X.

THE WHALE FISHERY.

Early history of the whale fishery — Original method of at-
tacking whales — Modern improvements in whaling — Imple-
ments— Enterprise of our ancestors in this line — Intrepidity
of whalers — Discoveries in distant regions — Benefits confer-
red by them on the Polynesian colonies and missionary estab-
lishments— Character of whalers, officers and crew.

In the rise and progress of the whale fishery, a branch
of commercial pursuit now swollen to snch a magnitude,
we can remember with pride the activity and enterprise
of our ancestors, who at a very early period of our his-
tory were the first to traverse the mighty waters of the
North and South Atlantic, and grapple with and subdue
" the monster of the main " in his own realm. There
may have been many daring enterprises of this kind at-
tempted antecedently to this period ; but it was not until the
American colonies, during the early part of the last cen-
tury, in a spirit of adventure and of commercial enter-
prise, began to fit out their little vessels and sally forth to
gather spoils from the ocean, that we find any authentic ac-
counts of the prosecution of the whale fishery as a reg-
ular department of commercial industry. " But even
before these adventurers commenced their career of sper-
maceti hunting, we have it proved to us that the Indians
who inhabited the shores of America, used to voyage
out to sea and attack this animal from their canoes and
pierce him with their lances of wood or other instru-

11

122 WHALE FISHERY.

merits of the same material, which were barbed, and
which before they were plunged into his flesh, were
fastened by a short warp, or piece of rope to a large
block of light wood. This was thrown overboard the
moment the barbed instrument was thrust into his body,
which being repeated at every rising of the whale, or
when they were so fortunate as to get near enough to do
so — in a few instances by a sort of worrying to death
system, rewarded the enterprising savage with the lifeless
body of his victim, but which in most cases was that of
a very young one ; and even this, when towed to the
shore, it was impossible for them to turn over, so that
they were obliged to content themselves with flinching
the fat from one side of the body only. Few indeed
must these instances have been, when we consider the
means that were employed in the capture of so immense
an animal possessing such enormous strength by which
their barbed spears or lances of wood, must have been
frequently shivered to atoms or drawn from the flesh of
the whale by the resistance the blocks of wood to which
they were attached must have occasioned, when the
animal became frightened into its utmost speed, and
when we know at the present time that by their power-
ful actions and convulsive movements, the best tempered
iron of which our harpoons and lances are made, fre-
quently becomes twisted to pieces, while the boats which
are used in the chase are often thrown high into the air,
with the head, or broken into fragments, by one blow of
the tail of this enormous creature." (Beale, p. 138.)

The mode of attacking the Sperm Whale, now uni-
versally practised, by a harpoon attached to a long line,
was a great improvement upon the cautious movements
of former whalers. Previous to this period, the attack
was made with harpoons attached to large blocks of

MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. 123

wood in imitation of the aborigines; but the hardy-
whaler with a contempt of danger which has always
characterized him, adopted the more hazardous but
surer method of capturing the leviathan of the deep, and
with the smoking line darting out, flies like a phantom
over the billows, followed in his impetuous course
by a long line of foam.

The invention of the gun harpoon, was thought to
be a very great improvement upon the simple harpoons
in use, as the weapon is propelled somewhat farther and
consequently with more force, when thrown from a gun,
than in the ordinary way. But the great difficulties and
dangers attending it while the boat is plunging and
tossing about, together with the few advantages it pos-
sesses over the other, have effectually prevented its
coming into general use. It is almost entirely confined
to French whalemen, whose national penchant for the
application of science to the arts, would naturally give
them a preference for any mechanical contrivance.

The following is an extract from an admirable article
in the North American Review of Jan., 1834, entitled
" The Whale Fishery."

" Second only in maritime importance among nations,
our country has already outstripped all others in the
whale fishery. Our efforts first commenced in open
boats on the shores of Cape Cod and Nantucket, at an
early period of our history. As soon as a whale appear-
ed to the keen eyes of our fisherman, a boat was pushed
off in pursuit. This precarious business is not even now
forgotten, and the huge carcass of the leviathan is not
an unfrequent reward of the watchful inhabitants of the
Cape Cod towns. The boat was soon enlarged to the
sloop, whose cruise stretched gradually as far as the
Straits of Belle Isle and Labrador, and along our south-

124 WHALE FISHERY.

ern coasts to the West India seas. In time, the sloop
was metamorphosed into a brig or a ship, and the shores
of Africa were next frequented. The adventurers
crossed the equator to attack the monster on the rugged
coasts of Brazil and Patagonia. Soon the arduous
doubling of Cape Horn opened to our researches the vast
expanse of the Pacific. Our ships may now be seen
lingering for supplies in all the western ports of South
America, and one hundred of them annually recruit at
the Sandwich Islands. They have scoured every part
of the Pacific ; and the coasts of Japan are now the
scene of their most successful labors. Thence they
often return home around the Cape of Good Hope, thus
circumnavigating the globe in a three years voyage.

It appears from the early history of the colonies that
our bays were once plenteously stocked with whales.
For near a century, the business was carried on from
the Cape Cod Islands, particularly Provincetown, Truro,
and Wellfleet, in open boats. They subsequently
pursued the business in larger craft, and in some
instances their vessels were despatched to Labrador for
the double purpose of cod and whale fishing. Nan-
tucket was settled in 1759. The inhabitants were
instructed in the whale fishing by the Cape Cod people.
The whales were brought in by boats, and the oil was
extracted on the shore. In 1730, they employed as
many as twenty five sloops, and about this period they
began to erect works on deck, and put up the oil on
shipboard. The fleet gradually increased. In 1756,
eighty sloops sailed from the island, and on the breaking
out of the Revolutionary war, one hundred and forty
sloops, schooners and brigs were engaged upon the
coasts of Guinea, Brazil and the West Indies, annually.
Thirty thousand barrels of oil were the rich result of

ENTERPRISE OF OUR ANCESTORS. 125

their vigorous exertions. About the year 1766, the
inhabitants of Dartmouth, now New-Bedford, began the
business on the shore of the Acushnet river, gradually-
launched their vessels in the pursuit, and at the com-
mencement of the war employed forty or fifty sail. From
this place was fitted out the first whaling expedition to
the Falkland Islands in 1774, consisting of two vessels.
Thus the New England whale fishery previously to the
Revolution, already employed nearly two hundred
vessels. The extent of this business, and the indefati-
gable manner of its prosecution, is best illustrated by the
felicitous language of Burke.

'Look at the manner in which the people of New-
England have of late carried on the Whale Fishery.
Whilst we follow them among the tumbling mountains
of ice, and behold them penetrating into the deepest
frozen recesses of Hudson's Bay, and Davis's Straits,
whilst we are looking for them beneath the arctic circle,
we hear that they have pierced into the opposite region
of polar cold, that they are at the antipodes, and engaged
under the frozen serpent of the south. Falkland Islands
which seemed too remote and romantic an object for the
grasp of national ambition, is but a stage .and resting
place in the progress of their victorious industry. Nor
is the equinoctial heat more discouraging to them than
the accumulated winter of both the poles. We know
that while some of them draw the line and strike the
harpoon on the coast of Africa, others run the longitude,
and pursue their gigantic game along the coast of Brazil.
No sea but what is vexed by their fisheries, no climate
that is not witness to their toils. Neither the perseve-
rance of Holland, nor the activity of France, nor the
dexterous and firm sagacity of English enterprize, ever
carried this perilous mode of hardy industry to the

11*

126 WHALE FISHERY.

extent to which it has been pushed by this recent
people — a people who are still, as it were, but in the
gristle, and not yet hardened into the bone of manhood.' "

But if such encomiums could be pronounced upon the
enterprise and hardihood of our forefathers nearly two
thirds of a century ago, what panegyrics should be be-
stowed upon their descendants, who inheriting all the
fearless intrepidity of their sires, and emulous of their
daring, have traversed the most remote and dangerous
seas with that eager love of adventure which has left no
region of the mighty ocean unvisited. The doubling of
Cape Horn, whose reputed terrors were once deemed in-
surmountable, is now looked upon as a small affair by
the hundreds of whalers that annually make the pas-
sage. It is but commencing the voyage which lays open
the vast Pacific, extending more than nine thousand
miles from east to west, and in latitude from pole to
pole. Here for month after month, the whaler pursues
his "gigantic game," scrutinizing every sea where a pros-
pect of success invites, undaunted by the furious storms
that often assail him with the accumulated surges of this
ocean, where they roll unopposed, and gather strength
over so great an extent — or by the numerous low islands,
reefs and rocks, not laid down on the charts, occurring
so frequently in one region as to give it the name of " the
dangerous Archipelago !" — or by the treacherous savages
with whom he is often compelled to negotiate for sup-
plies, at whose hand he not unfrequently meets a cruel
fate, when wrecked, or when artfully decoyed within
their power.

While our discovery ships, once or twice during a cen-
tury, are sent out to explore these unknown regions, the
numerous whale ships that are scouring every ocean
and clime, fall in with many islands, reefs and shoals.

BENEFIT OF WHALEMEN. 127

unknown to the navigator, and carefully ascertaining
their position by observation, give intelligence of them,
thus furthering the safety of the voyager in those remote
and dangerous seas. Many of the beautiful islands that
gem the Pacific, lovely in every variety of natural scen-
ery, climate and production, were first discovered by
whale ships, " and on the latest maps and charts, we find
more than thirty of these islands and reefs bearing the
names of Nantucket captains and merchants." The vis-
its of our whalers to the western ports of South Ameri-
ca for supplies, have greatly facilitated our commerce by
removing the jealousy of the Spanish republics of South
America, and filling them with respect for a country
which can send year after year such an array of ship-
ping into their ports.

Many of the fertile islands of the Pacific would now
be untenanted, except by the indolent savage, and the
enterprising colonies established upon them must long
since have become extinct, were it not for the frequent
visits of whalemen in their erratic movements, that have
often rescued them from the last extremes of distress,
when utter extermination was staring them in the face.
And not only have facilities for communicating with
their native land been thus extended to the colonists, but
their persons and property have often been protected
from the ruthless and capricious dispositions of the na-
tives by the timely arrival of a whaler with his brave
crew inured to danger in its most formidable aspects.

The knowledge of the Polynesian islands dissemina-
ted by the whaler, has led to the establishment of the
missionaries of the cross among those rude islanders.
It is true that many masters of vessels with their crews
have conducted most shamefully in their intercourse
with the natives, and have placed every obstacle in their

128 WHALE FISHERY.

power in the way of the missionaries ; yet there are ma-
ny instances of these devoted men having received great
assistance and encouragement in their labors, seconded
by the good wishes and efforts of pious masters of whale
ships. And the facility of communication thus afforded
with their dear friends at home, which I have before ad-
verted to, softens their fate, separated forever, perhaps,
from home and their native land, a privilege which no
one can fully appreciate, unless he has long resided in a
region remote from all he holds dear.

With the name of fisherman we are apt to associate
ideas of rudeness and ignorance ; but as a general fact,
the crews of our whalemen are fully as intelligent as
the average of seamen. To leave home and country —
to be absent for several years with the expectation of fa-
cing danger in every aspect, some of which are pecu-
liarly formidable, evince some resolution. Besides,
most of the crew of whalemen are young men, with
whom the stirring scenes and dangers of the whaling
business have a romantic charm, which comports well
with their adventurous spirits. Their officers are many
of them scientific navigators, and the trust of property
to an amount sometimes exceeding one hundred thou-
sand dollars, placed at their discretion, proves them to
be men of responsibility and character. To keep in
subjection such numerous crews, often composed too, of
representatives from all nations, requires no moderate
ability and firmness. Mutinies very rarely occur, al-
though, I presume the discipline is not so high as in the
average of merchantmen ; a fact, which, considering the
long voyages into remote seas, where law has sunk behind
the wave, indicates that a respect for constituted authority
does not spring so much from fear, as that it orignates
in a firm conviction of its indispensable necessity.

WHALING PORTS. 129

As a situation for acquiring a knowledge of sea-faring
life, the whaling business bears an important relation to
the maritime affairs of our country. It would seem
strange indeed, if a good knowledge of duty aboard ship
were not gained during a three years' voyage. Coolness
and intrepidity in danger, those indispensable qualifica-
tions in the character of a seaman, are taught by expo-
sure to every variety of peril. " If the longest voyages
that are made over the ocean — if the navigation of every
sea on the globe, serene or boisterous — if the strictest
discipline and subordination of large crews constitute a
nursery for seamen, we have one which it should be our
pride and duty to protect." (North American Review.)

We will now endeavor to give a slight sketch of the
distinguishing characteristics of the sperm whale, which
shew clearly that he belongs to a variety of cetacea en-
tirely homogeneous.

Those who are desirous of arriving at a more definite
knowledge of the whale fishery in its various depart-
ments, can do so by consulting the following statistics.
For the table of the imports of sperm and right whale
oil into thd United States for the past year, I am indebt-
ed to the kindness of Mr. Henry Havens, of New-Lon-
don, who has been indefatigable in gathering accurate
information of the cargo of every whale ship upon her
arrival at the port of destination. It exhibits better than
mere assertion can do, the immense importance of the
whale fishery as a department of commercial industry.

Statement of the American Whale Fishery, exhibit-
ing the number of vessels employed, and the port
from which they are fitted out.

Nantucket . . . ,*$g3
New-Bedford ... 184

Holmes' Hole .... 4
Providence .... 3

130

WHALE F

H E R Y

Fair Haven .
Sag Harbor
New-London
Warren
Salem . .
Newport .
Stonington
Westport .
Edgar town
Hudson
Falmouth
Mattapoisett
Fall River
Mystic . .
Sippican .
Wilmington,
Poughkeepsie
Bristol . .
Greenport .

Del

47
31
36
19
11
10
9

10
11
6
7
8
6
7
7
4
6
8
5

Wareham 5

Dartmouth .... 3

Bridgeport 3

Lynn 2

Newburyport .... 2

Plymouth 6

Boston 6

Dorchester .... 2
Provincetown .... 4
Cold Spring .... 2
New-Suffolk .... 1

Jamesport 1

Newark 3

Wiscasset 1

Portsmouth 1

Portland 1

Somerset 1

Gloucester 1

Total,

567.

This large fleet embraces vessels of all classes ; the
greater proportion, however, are ships or barques vary-
ing from two hundred to five hundred tons' burden. For
the equipment of so large a number of ships, which is
done with a liberality not common in the merchant ser-
vice, an immense amount of capital is requisite. " The
outfits required for a whaling ship, constitute no incon-
siderable item of the expense, amounting in a vessel
which is fitted for a three years' voyage, to no less a
sum than $18,000. The hull not unfrequently costs
$20,000 more, while many are sailed whose total cost
does not vary far from $60,000. The principal kind of
provisions required for the crew upon their voyage, con-
sists of beef and pork, bread, molasses, peas, beans, corn,
potatoes, dried apples, coffee, tea, chocolate, butter, be-
sides from three to four thousands [?] of casks, made

ITATISTICS OF WHALING.

131

from white oak, and a quantity of spare duck, cordage,
and other articles which may be required in the course
of the voyage."

The quantity of oil imported into the United States
from March 1840 to March 1841, is indicated by the
following table giving the monthly amount in barrels.

March

April - - - -

May

June - - - -

July ... -

August - - -

September - - -
October - - -
November - -

December - - •

January - - -

February - - -

Total

ight Whale.

Sperm.

21,119

10,810

21,785

18,534

47,166

22, 358

20,274

29,620
11,595

14,833

14,575

9,535

14,160

12,225

12,923

15,200

2,000

4,100

2,600

7 250

2,712

1,895

12,043

11,948

197,997

143,269

In estimating the value of these imports we will
consider right whale oil worth about thirty five cents
per gallon, and sperm oil about ninety cents at the
lowest ; 197, 997 bbls., are equal to 6,236,905 gallons
the aggregate of right whale oil, the value of which is
not far from $2,182,817. The aggregate importation
of sperm oil, amounts to 143,269 bbls. or 4,512,973
gallons, which at 90 cents per gallon, is worth about
$4,061,675.

Thus in the space of one year, there has been drawn
from the depths of the sea, and imported into the United
States, property to the amount of six millions, two

132 WHALE FISHERY.

hundred and forty-four thousand four hundred and
ninety-tioo dollars.

In this calculation, I have not introduced the imports
of elephant and blackfish oil, not unimportant items.
The sea elephant is found in immense numbers upon
some of the lonely islands of the ocean, particularly in
the Indian Ocean. One of our boatsteerers returned just
before shipping aboard the North America, from a voy-
age to the island of Desolation in latitude 50° south,
longitude 70° east, and has given me many accounts of
the dangers and toils he encountered at that lonely
island, the name of which very appropriately indicates
its character. In these expeditions, the ship is provided
with a tender, a schooner of from seventy to ninety tons,
which runs around into every bay and close in along the
shore of the island, while her consort lies safely at
anchor in some harbor. Whenever a large number of
these elephants are seen drawn up in dense array upon
the beach, a body of men are sent ashore armed with
clubs, who commence laying about them on each
side until all are killed that have not been so fortunate
as to make their escape into the sea. The skins of the
slaughtered animals are then taken off, and the carcass
is abandoned after removing the blubber which imme-
diately envelopes it. This is hoisted aboard the schooner,
and the men after suffering from the cold and severe
fatigues, and drenched with salt water, return to their con-
sort, aboard which the blubber is received and tried out.
This oil is rather more valuable than right whale oil, and
the shortness of the voyage which rarely exceeds a year,
renders the expedition a highly profitable adventure.

The whalebone imported into the United States,
familiar to every one from the varied purposes to which
it is applied, is an important item in the calculation

COMPENDIUM. 133

which I have not yet considered. The quantity imported
in proportion to the amount of right whale oil, indi-
cated by the preceding table, cannot be far from 1,500,
000 barrels, which at twenty cents per pound gives us
as the result, $300,000. Adding this sum to the previous
calculations, the value of imports of the whale fishery
for one year is swollen to the amount of six millions
Jive hundred and forty four thousand four hundred and
ninety-two dollars.

IS

CHAPTER XI.

VARIETIES OF THE WHALE.,

The Sperm Whale— Spermaceti— Ambergris— Right Whale —
Size — Food — Fin-back Whale — Difficulty of capture —
Hump-back Whale — Conflicts of Whales with one another
— Loss of the Whaler "Essex."

We will now endeavor to give a slight sketch of the
distinguishing characteristics of the sperm whale, which
show clearly that he belongs to a variety of cetacea
entirely homogeneous. There are five different varieties
of whales, commonly known to whalers, pre-eminent
among which, is the cachalot or sperm whale, whose
value upon a fair comparison, is about treble that of any
other variety.

The sperm whale, (physeter macercephalus,) is a
deep sea whale, that is, he is rarely found in green
water, and in his migrations, he never wanders off into
the Frigid Zones, where innumerable herds of cetacea con-
gregate. His favorite haunts lie within the tropics, or not
far from their borders, where the " squid " (sepia octopus)
upon which he feeds, seem to be most abundant, and
grow to the largest size. The sperm whale, as I have
before remarked, upon a former page, is armed with
teeth in the lower jaw, slightly curved inwards for the
holding of his prey. His spiracle, or " spoutrhole,'1 is in
the upper angle of his head, and the air when ejected
from the lungs, is blown forwards, condensing in a large

SPERM WHALE. 135

white jet, resembling a puff of steam, instead of the thin
perpendicular jet thrown up by the other varieties of
whales. The regularity and number of his spouts are
distinguishing characteristics, and it is remarkable how
exact in point of time, are the intervals elapsing between
each spout. When he descends again to the depths of
the ocean, the time that, passes before his re-appearance,
is carefully noted by the whaler, which enables him to
calculate with accuracy his return to the surface, when-
ever he disappears. The other varieties of whales,
seldom or never remain beneath the surface of water
as long as the sperm whale. The habit of « breech-
ing," or throwing himself out of water, and of "turning
flukes," or vibrating his tail in the air as he descends,
are other peculiarities found more frequent in this
variety than in any other. From these characteristics,
as well as from others that might be mentioned, the
experienced whaler can readily distinguish the sperm
whale, even when at the distance of many miles, which
was astonishing to me when I could scarcely see
anything at all.

The sperm whale is a much more valuable prize to
his captors, than any other variety. All the oil tried out
from his blubber, contains a certain proportion of sperm-
aceti, while the « head matter" is almost pure sperma-
ceti. At the completion of the voyage, the oil is drawn
from the casks, and after a process of boiling and cooling,
it is put into vats, which detain the spermaceti mixed
with oil, a yellowish viscous substance. This is put
into strong canvass bags, and subjected to a screw press,
and afterwards to the tremendous pressure of the hy-
draulic engine, when the oily matter is expelled and
leaves the spermaceti in hard concrete masses, which
after boiling with potash and purifying, is moulded into

136 VARIETIES OF THE WHALE.

those beautiful candles, which vie with our gas lights in
brilliancy.

The origin of ambergris, once pronounced to be the
" occultum naturse," which for many years puzzled the
speculations of philosophers, was at length satisfactorily
determined by some Nantucket whalers, " who in cutting
up a spermaceti bull whale, found accidentally in him
about twenty pounds weight, more or less, of that drug,
after which, they and other such fishermen became very
curious in searching all such whales they killed." Am-
bergris is nothing more than the indurated feces of the
sperm whale, caused by disease in the organs of diges-
tion in which the substance takes its origin, enlarging
and hardening gradually, causing great distress to the
poor animal, whose sickly appearance indicates that this
valuable drug or perfume, is lodged in his intestines.
" The use of ambergris in Europe," says Brande, " is now
nearly confined to perfumery, though it was formerly
used in medicine by many eminent physicians. In Asia,
and part of Africa, ambergris is not only used as a
medicine and perfume, but considerable use is also made
of it in cooking, by adding it to several dishes as a spice.
A great quantity of it also is constantly bought by the
pilgrims who travel to Mecca, probably to offer it there
and make use of it in fumigations in the same manner
as frankincense is used in*Catholic countries."

Masses of ambergris are often thrown up by the
diseased sperm whale in his convulsive agonies, when
struck with the harpoon, and are found floating upon the
surface of the ocean. One of the sailors told me that he
once picked up a floating piece, which he sold for twenty
dollars, after reaching home. It is of a yellowish brown
color, with numerous dark spots in it, which are the bills
or beaks of the squid upon which the animal feeds;

RIGHT WHALE. 137

when heated, a fragrant odor is exhaled, which, like the
perfume of musk, is highly grateful to some persons, but
exceedingly disagreeable to others.

The right whale, (balaena mysticetus,) is found most
abundantly in the Arctic seas, upon the banks of Brazil
down as far as Cape Horn, and in that latitude all over
the world, particularly in the neighborhood of islands.
Though of such an enormous size as to yield in some
instances of individuals found in the Northern seas, over
two hundredbanels of oil, he feeds upon the most minute
animalculae, some varieties of which are almost micros-
copic. Adapted to this mode of procuring subsistence,
he has a peculiar construction of the mouth, which is an
immense cavity, containing a tongue yielding in many
instances, over six barrels of oil. The whalebone, such
as we see in the construction of umbrellas, and which
the ladies make use of for various purposes better known
to themselves than to me, is set in thick slabs upon the
upper jaw, having long and slender fibrous fringes upon
the edges, by means of which, when the jaws are closed,
the water engulfed by the animal while feeding, is
strained through, leaving the animalcules behind. All
whalers are agreed that if Jonah was swallowed by any
of the cetaceous family, the right whale, par excel-
lence, was selected for the honor of " receiving a Prophet."
To satisfy the wants of this immense animal, what
myriads upon myriads of animalculae must swarm in
those artic regions ! Captain Scoresby made some attempt
to estimate their numbers in a given space, but finding
the calculations burdensome from the size of the arith-
metical numbers, he indicates their inconceivable extent
by observing that " eighty thousand men would be em-
ployed during the period elapsed since the creation of
the world in counting two square miles of them." The

12*

138 VARIETIES OF THE WHALE.

right whales frequenting the coasts of Brazil, and the
Southern oceans, feed upon " shrimp" animalculas of a blood
red color, which sometimes make their appearance in such
vast numbers as to give to the waters a crimson hue.
The shape of the right whale, differs much from that
of the cachalot. He is larger round in proportion,
having no hump upon his back, but is provided with
longer and wider side fins. His spiracle is situated
some distance from the extremity of the snout upon
the top of his head, and his spout issues in a thin forked
stream to a greater height, and at less regular intervals,
than is the case with the cachalot.

Ships fitted out for a voyage after right whale oil, are
regarded as inferior to sperm whalers ; they return home
much sooner, however, full of oil, which is applied to
various purposes of the arts, but is a poor substitute for
sperm oil in our lamps.

The Fin back whale is found all over the ocean.
As his name implies, he has a large thin fin upon his
back ; he has also a long projecting snout, from the back
part of which his spout issues in a broad white jet, like
that of the sperm whale, a source often of considerable
perplexity to the sperm whaler. As a distinguishing
characteristic, however, he never " breaches " or throws
himself out of water, and by the attentive listener, when
this whale blows, a sound is heard, like a heavy sigh
succeeding it, called by whalers the "draw back/'
This variety yields but little oil, and this circumstance,
together with the extreme hazard of attacking him,
give him carte blanche to rove wherever he chooses.
An instance of an attack upon a fin back whale has
been narrated to me by an eye witness. The
moment the iron was hurled into the whale, he
darted off with the velocity of lightning, taking the line

HUMP BACK WHALE. 139

instantly out of the boat, which the men were afraid to
turn round the loggerhead to oppose his impetuous
course, and with the foaming waves parted on each side
of his furious track, he disappeared beyond the horizon
before two minutes had elapsed !

The Hump back whale resembles the Fin Back
variety, but in place of the fin upon his back, he has a
hump like that of the cachalot. His spout issues in two
perpendicular shafts like that of the right whale, and
with considerable regularity, which circumstances
together with his habit of " breaching " frequently, a la
cachalot, are sometimes perplexing to the sperm whaler.
The hump back is not so often hunted as the other
varieties, by the whaler. He has two long side fins
which he throws around with great fury as he rolls over
and over in his dying agonies. His favorite haunt
appears to be in the green water upon the western coast
of South America, where he feeds upon the animalculae
that crowd those seas, for which in common with the
fin back, he is provided with an apparatus like that of
the right whale : the slabs of baleen, (whale-bone,)
in the two varieties mentioned are said however to be
shorter than in the balaena mysticetus. " One evening
while we were on the coast of Peru," (said a friend
of mine as he was giving me the particulars of a voy-
age he had once taken,) "we lay becalmed in a fog
near sunset, when our little schooner was suddenly
surrounded by a large school of hump back whales,
that commenced "breaching" close along side of us,
rising as it seemed directly under our little craft, and
throwing their immense bodies out of the water, not
reflecting that what was sport to them might be death to
us. In a half an hour we lost sight of our unwelcome
visitors, during which time we were in a state of terror

140 VARIETIES OP THE WHALE.

and alarm, lest they should dash us to pieces in their
boisterous gambols."

There are many other varieties of cetacea which are
hunted for their oil, but a consideration of them would
be tedious, if what I have already advanced has not
proved to be so, and I pass by them in silence.

To form any definite idea of objects we have not seen,
whose dimensions are given, we must do so by compari-
son with the size of objects familiar to us. It appears, as
far as I have been able to gather from various sources,
that the sperm whale is unrivalled in magnitude in
animated nature, and that the dimensions of the antedi-
luvian monsters, ascertained with sufficient definiteness
from their organic remains, are transcended by the vast-
ness of their successors. The fin back sometimes
attains to an enormous size, but is usually inferior to the
other varieties in magnitude. The right whale holds
the second place ; " of three hundred and twenty-two
individuals of this species," (says Scoresby,) "the largest
we ever measured, was fifty eight feet in length." Right
whales are sometimes found of dimensions so vast as to
yield over two hundred barrels of oil. Accounts have
lately been received of their having made their appear-
ance in the north Pacific, north of latitude 40°, in great
numbers and of enormous dimensions, so that some
sperm whalers have given up the pursuit of their pecu-
liar game upon the "Japan cruising grounds," and have
commenced hunting the right whale. A few captures
of whales, each making two hundred barrels of oil, would
soon fill up a ship carrying twenty six hundred barrels,
the average capacity of whalers, and the successful
voyager would be making his way home before the year
has expired, instead of being doomed to cruise about all

CONFLICTS OF WHALES. 141

over the ocean for three or four years after a more valua-
ble, but less certain cargo.

But the sperm whale is the mightiest of the mon-
sters of the deep. Beale, in his highly interesting
account of the Sperm Whale Fishery, mentions an
instance of the capture of a male cachalot that meas-
ured about eighty-four feet in length. The dimen-
sions of the largest elephants seldom exceed six-
teen feet in length, fourteen feet in height, and eight
feet in diameter; what an enormous bulk must this
whale have, to be more than five times as large as
the Elephant, the " ingens bellua," with whose unexpec-
ted presence and vastness, Pyrrhus endeavored to terrify
the intrepid Fabricius ! *

Though ordinarily of a peaceful and sluggish dispo-
sition, yet the sperm whale may be roused to fury, and
the conflicts of two large bulls is described as terrific in
the extreme. They rush together with a tremendous
shock, lashing the sea into foam in the fury of the onset,
and grasp each his adversary in his formidable jaws,
while with their bodies thrown high out of water and
writhing with convulsive efforts, and their broad flukes
vibrating with rage, they present a sublime spectacle to
the beholder. The marks of their teeth upon the head
of their opponent are indelible, and have the appearance
of ulcerous sores.

The loss of the whaler Essex, of Nantucket, is
one of the most remarkable in the history of the
Sperm Whale Fishery. A narrative of that event
by Owen Chase, mate of the ship gives a vivid des-
cription of that terrific catastrophe. "I observed,"
(says he,) "a very large spermaceti whale, as well

* It is a singular fact, that the male Cachalot greatly exceeds the female
in magnitude, while in the right whale variety the case is reversed.

142 VARIETIES OF THE WHALE.

as I could judge, about eighty-five feet in length. He
broke water about twenty rods off our weather bow, and
was lying quietly with his head in a direction for the ship.
He spouted two or three times and then disappeared.
In less than three seconds, he came np again, about
the length of the ship off', and made directly for us, at
the rate of about three knots. The ship was then going
with about the same velocity. His appearance and atti-
tude gave us at first no alarm ; but while 1 stood watch-
ing his movements, and observing him but a ship's
length off, coming down for us with great celerity, I in-
voluntarily ordered the boy at the helm to put it hard
up, intending to sheer off and avoid him. The words
were scarcely out of my mouth before he came down
upon us at full speed, and struck the ship with his head
just forward of the forechains. He gave us such an ap-
palling and tremendous jar, as nearly threw us all on
our faces. The ship brought up as suddenly and vio-
lently as if she had struck a rock, and trembled for a
few minutes like a leaf.*" We looked at each other in
perfect amazement, deprived almost of the power of
speech. Many minutes elapsed before we were able to
realize the dreadful accident, during which time he
passed under the ship, grazing her keel as he went
along, came up alongside her to leeward, and lay
on the top of the water, apparently stunned with the
violence of the blow, for the space of a minute. He
then suddenly started off in a direction to leeward. Af-
ter a few moments' reflection, and recovering in some
measure from the consternation that had seized us, I of
course concluded that he had stove a hole in the ship,
and that it would be necessary to set the pumps a-going.
Accordingly, they were rigged, but had not been in ope-

LOSS OF THE WHALER "ESSEX." 143

ration more than one minute, before I perceived the
head of the ship to be gradually settling down in the
water. I then ordered the signal to be set for the other
boats— at that time in pursuit of whales — which I had
scarcely despatched, before I again discovered the whale
apparently in convulsions, on the top of the water,
about one hundred rods to leeward. He was enveloped
in the foam, that his continued and violent threshing
about in the water had created around him, and I could
distinctly see him smite his jaws together as if distracted
with rage and fury. He remained a short time in this
situation, and then started off with great velocity across
the bows of the ship to windward. By this time the
ship had settled down a considerable distance in the wa-
ter, and I gave her up as lost. I, however, ordered the
pumps to be kept constantly going, and endeavored to
collect my thoughts for the occasion. I turned to the
boats, two of which we then had with the ship, with an
intention of clearing them away and getting all things
ready to embark in them, if there should be no other re-
source left. While my attention was thus engaged for
a moment, I was roused by the cry of the man at the
hatchway, 'Here he is— he is making for us again !' I
turned round and saw the whale about one hundred rods
directly ahead of us, coming down with apparently
twice his ordinary speed, and to me it appeared with
ten-fold fury and vengeance in his aspect. The surf
flew in all directions, and his course towards us was
marked by a white foam of a rod in width, which he
made with a continual violent threshing of his tail.
His head was about half out of water, and in that way
he came upon, and again struck the ship. I was in
hopes, when I descried him making for us, that by put-
ting the ship away immediately, I should be able to

144 VARIETIES OF THE WHALE.

cross the line of his approach before he could get up to
us, and thus avoid, what I knew, if he should strike us
again, would be our inevitable destruction. I called out
to the helmsman ' hard up,' but she had not fallen off
more than a point before we took the second shock. I
should judge the speed of the ship at this time, to have
been about three knots, and that of the whale about six.
He struck her to windward, directly under the cat-head,
and completely stove in her bows. He passed under
the ship again, went off to leeward, and we saw no
more of him."

This dreadful disaster occurred near the equator, at
the distance of a thousand miles from land. With the
scanty provisions and equipments they could save from
the foundering wreck, twenty men embarked in three
slender whaleboats upon the mighty ocean to buffet its
surging billows, with the desperate chance of being
picked up by some cruiser before reaching land, which
lay at such a distance, as almost to forbid a rational
hope of success. One boat was never heard of after-
wards, and was probably lost ; with a fate scarcely more
enviable, the crews of the others, experiencing the ex-
tremest misery that human nature can endure, were
picked up at sea by different ships nearly two thousand
miles from the scene of the disaster. So horrible was
their situation, that they were forced to draw lots to de-
cide which of their number should be killed to appease
the corroding pangs of hunger.

" There have been other instances of shipwreck, caus-
ed by the shock of these leviathans. In 1807, the ship
{ Union,' of Nantucket, Captain Gardner, was totally lost
between Nantucket and the Azores, by a similar concus-
sion. But no other instance is known, in which the
mischief is supposed to have been malignantly designed

INSTANCES OF SHIPWRECK. 145

by the assailant, and the most experienced whalers be-
lieve that even in this case, the attack was not inten-
tional. Mr. Chase, however, could not be persuaded to
think so. He says that all he saw, produced on his
mind the impression of decided and calculating mischief
on the part of this maddened leviathan." (North Amer-
ican Review.)

13

CHAPTER XII.

Amusements and mode of life on shipboard — Fishing — Mechan-
ical EMPLOYMENTS BlLL OF FARE.

Among the various amusements which make the time
pass away pleasantly aboard ship, catching fish is one of
the most agreeable. Vast schools of fish frequently accom-
pany ships for several days in succession, and whalers
are often surrounded for month after month by countless
hosts of the finny tribe, as they float slowly along over
the ocean within the tropics. A meal of fresh fish
can be had at any time by trailing a fish hook overboard
for a few minutes, and it is not uncommon for whalers to
salt down several barrels of these fish for their own use,
and to barter them away with the natives of the Pacific
Islands. When a ship is seen to be surrounded by large
schools of fish, it is a trick sometimes practised by a
brother whaler to run down close to her, under pretence
of speaking her, when a part, if not the whole of the
school abandon their old friend and move orT with the
stranger, a piece of coquetry very similar to what
obtains sometimes in a higher order of animated nature.

There are several varieties of fish that accompany
ships, the most common of which, are the albacore and
botietta, or "skip jack," as he is called by the sailors.
Their favorite position is a few yards in advance of the

FISHING. 14

ship, and as she moves steadily forward, parting the foam
upon each side of the cutwater, they glide along grace-
fully from side to side of her track, now leaping in merry
gambols high out of the sea, then darting forward they
cut the water after the flying fish, with their eye fixed
upon their trembling victim, that quivers in the air,
doubling upon his pursuer, until he falls helpless into
his greedy jaws, or is seized while on the wing.
In catching these fish, advantage is taken of their vora-
cious and merciless disposition towards the poor flying
fish. A strong line is provided, having a white rag
attached to a large hook upon one end of it, which is
kept playing upon the surface of the water, under the
bowsprit, to imitate the movements of their prey. If
the fish are disposed to bite, they spring at the bait
with the utmost eagerness and are instantly hooked.
Albacore vary in size, from one foot to those that are
nearly four feet long, weighing about one hundred
pounds. They are a very powerful and active fish,
and the largest size give ample employment to two
or three men in securing them after their capture.
The Albacore is a remarkably beautiful fish ; his pec-
toral, ventral, and lateral fins, are tipped with a bright
yellow, while all along from his hindmost fins towards
his tail, is set, at regular intervals, a delicate fin like
ruffle also tinged with the same brilliant hue.

The Bonetta, or " skip jack," is by no means as beau-
tiful a fish as the albacore. He is usually about eight-
een inches long, very similar to the albacore in the shape
of his fins, but wanting those brilliant hues that charac-
terize the latter. His size renders him better adapted for
capturing with a hook and line than the albacore ; but
owing to the tenderness of his jaw, and his violent con-
vulsions when caught, the hook almost always tears out

47

148 AMUSEMENTS ON SHIPBOARD.

before he can be secured. If these fish are grasped with
the hand while dying, their tremulous motion is so
violent as to benumb the arm, as if it had been exposed
to a succession of galvanic shocks. One of the officers
to express this peculiar property of the bonetta, observed
that " they sometimes shake so hard as to shake their
own heads off."

To the invalid proposing to take a voyage, for the
recovery of his health, a whale ship, under some circum-
stances, offers many inducements over any other mode
of conveyance. The excitement of whaling operations ;
the preparation of the boats and their armaments ; the
eager enthusiasm displayed whenever any thing is seen
by the lookouts, the dropping of books, writing, tailoring,
and the hurrying upon deck ; the breathless anxiety
stimulated by hope ; the rattling of blocks, running
rigging and spars as the ship is " hove to" — the lowering
of the boats — the dash of the oars and the fearless attack,
all combine in a variety of highly interesting scenes,
such as cannot but be favorable to the health of the
invalid. I still recollect with pleasure the first time we
took whales, and the very favorable effect it had upon
my health ; my bodily ills were forgotten in the engross-
ing interest of the novel scenes then presented. There
are some persons, I know, who cannot accommodate
themselves to anything, unless it happens to coincide
with their accustomed mode of life, and habits of
thinking. It is something of a struggle, I own, to bid
farewell to home and country, it may be forever, to
voyage over the mighty deep for month after month, and
to submit to the privations and inconveniences of a long
voyage ; but the resolution that determines unshrinking-
ly upon the enterprise, has nerved its possessor to a forti-
tude that will enable him to surmount the petty obsta-

MECHANICAL EMPLOYMENTS. 149

cles he encounters, and fit him to enjoy the pure atmos-
phere of the ocean, with the novel scenes it presents.
Let me especially recommend to all who embark upon the
ocean for the recovery of their health, to take a warm and
active interest in every thing they see ; and particularly,
to exclude ennui, that incubus upon the spirits of
invalids, which are already wanting in their wonted
elasticity.

Aboard whale ships, there are a great variety of
mechanical employments, constantly going on in good
weather, which cannot fail of interesting one, particularly
if he has any taste for mechanics. In this case, the car-
penter's bench and chest of tools, and the turning lathe,
give him a fine opportunity for exercise. There are
found aboard a whaler, a great variety of small tools
expressly intended for "schrimshawing" or nice me-
chanical contrivances for fabricating various articles out
of the teeth and jaw bone of the sperm whale. It is
customary aboard whalers, whenever they happen to be
in the neighborhood of islands or rocks, to send off
a boat or two upon a hunting and fishing expedition,
which is not often the case with merchantmen whose
object is to press forward as rapidly as possible.

There are several very fine large ships engaged in the
whaling business, and as a general thing they are very
fast sailers, an important qualification often in securing
success. The Sperm Whale Fishery claims the finest
vessels, and many of them are commanded by very
gentlemanly men, In the fitting out of a whale ship, a
liberality on the part of the owners is observed, which is
almost profuse in providing every thing that can be
thought of for so long a voyage, A whale ship must be
a little world within itself, as she is to be an isolated

13*

150 LIVING ON SHIPBOARD.

wanderer upon the face of the deep for several years ;
and she must have on board every convenience that can
be thought of, from a paper of needles up to the sheet
anchor. When a whale ship goes into port to recruit,
supplies are purchased with no parsimonious hand, as
we shall probably have occasion to witness.

As far as safety is concerned, the preference most
unquestionably belongs to whale ships. In the American
merchant service a much less number of men are ship-
ped to navigate a given tonnage than is the case in the
whaling service. In a ship of four hundred tons for
instance, sixteen or seventeen men " all told " would be
considered her complement, giving to each watch seven
men perhaps, whose duty is alternately to take care of
the ship. A whaler of this tonnage, would carry over
thirty men, giving to each watch double the force of the
merchantmen. There are many occasions when it is
extremely necessary to shorten sail with rapidity, or
execute some maneuvre with great expedition — as for
instance, when the ship is " taken aback " in a gale of
wind or heavy squall, one of the most dangerous posi-
tions she can be placed in. In such critical emergencies
that demand instant action, there would be a sufficient
amount of force in the watch aboard a whaler to brace
around the yards, whereas the merchant ship is some-
times torn to pieces or carried down stern first, while
waiting for the watch below to come upon deck, from
an inability of those upon deck to work the ship.

The variety of climate which the whaler passes
through in his wanderings, is extremely favorable to the
recovery of one's health. From the cold and bracing air
of the high latitudes, he makes his way to the lovely
regions within the tropics, possessing a climate unrivalled

BILL OF FARE. 151

for mildness and serenity, and so equable, that a resident
in our capricious atmosphere, can have no adequate idea
of its loveliness.

The regularity of life aboard ship, is indicated by the
bill of fare ; and perhaps it may not be uninteresting to
know what one must subsist upon during a long voyage
like the one I am pursuing ; a consideration which may
not have entered into the reader's mind, who has his
market and grocery store close at hand, where every
article of luxury, for the table is displayed to the purcha-
ser. But here we are thousands of miles from our native
land, provisioned for a three years' cruise or more, with
the exception of occasional recruits of vegetables and
fruits. Of course therefore, salt meats and hard bread,
furnish by far the greater proportion of our food, and to
be kept upon this diet for month after month is not the
least privation of a seafaring life.

Hence in whale ships, bound on long cruises, that
dreadful disease, the scurvy makes its appearance more
frequently than in any other class of ships, owing to an
exclusion from vegetables which form so large a propor-
tion of the fare of landsmen, and not from any peculiarity
in the mode of life pursued by the whaler, as has been
insinuated by some travellers. To feel the full force of
these privations, one must deny himself potatoes and
every product of the kitchen garden, and confine himself
to salt beef and pork with hard bread or some preparation
of flour or meal. He must go without milk in his tea
and coifee, for it will be recollected that " the cow never
comes home" at sea. He must slake his thirst with
water of so high a temperature as to answer very well
as an emetic, and of so powerful an odor frequently,
when just pumped into the skuttle butt, as to make him
hold his breath for a long interval after drinking it. Let

152 LIVING ON SHIPBOARD.

no invalid therefore, come to sea unless he possesses the
happy faculty of accommodating himself to circum-
stances; and let no other inducement but that which
sent me to sea draw him forth from home with its
nameless comforts to encounter so many inevitable
privations.

Without further preamble, I will endeavor to give a
slight sketch of our bill of fare. "When we first came out,
we had a quantity of potatoes — a sine qua non upon all
occasions. At Fayal, we added a hundred bushels to our
stock of these delightful esculents, which were served out
to all hands, and lasted for more than two months. Our
fare has varied, of course, with our supplies ; but in the
cabin, the established order for dinner is as follows. On
Monday, corn and beans and pork, sans potatoes; on
Tuesday, codfish and potatoes ; on Wednesday mush
and beef; on Thursday, corn and beans and pork again ;
on Friday, rice and beef; on Saturday, codfish and
potatoes again ; and Sunday, beef and duff, a sort of
pudding known universally to sailors. A ship without
her duff on Sunday, would be considered by all sailors,
as certainly heterodox, as would the celebration of Christ-
mas appear to an Englishman without his plumb
pudding, or of thanksgiving in New England without
pumpkin pies. The receipt for duff, used by Mr. Free-
man our primum mobile in such things, is as follows :
■ To a quantity of flour, more or less, (more would be
preferable in Mr. F's opinion,) wet up with equal parts
of salt and fresh water and well stirred, add a quantity
of "slush" or lard, and yeast; the mixture to be boiled
in a bag, until it can be dropped from the top-gallant
cross-trees upon deck, without breaking, when it is
cooked."

This has been the bill of fare for all on board, and

BILL OF FARE. 153

such has been its regularity, that our calender is deter-
mined by it, and the days of the week are fancifully
named, "mush day," "duff day," corresponding to
Wednesday and Sunday old style. With the failure of
potatoes, our bill of fare has met with sundry important
changes, and we have had to adopt another mode of
reckoning time. Our breakfasts and suppers are some-
what similar to our dinners, with the addition in the cabin
and steerage of " flippers," or " slapjacks," for breakfast,
and occasionally for supper. All things considered, our
fare is good enough ; it is wholesome, which ought to
satisfy a reasonable man while at sea ; and besides, our
viands are discussed with a hearty good will, which
renders them much more palatable. Though our
simple meal is spread out upon a pine table, and
our dining service is not the most elegant, yet I
came to sea to recover my health and not in pursuit of
luxuries ; and while participating in our frugal meal
with the captain and his officers, whose open hearted
kindness has made me almost forget my wide separation
from home, I do not envy the luxurious epicure whose
companions may indeed be more polished, but possibly
less noble and disinterested.

CHAPTER XIII.

CRUISE IN THE PACIFIC.

Perilous incidents of a whaler's life — Blackfish, capture,
description, and habits — squid or cuttle fish — large schools
of sperm whales — terrific approach to the ship — laws
of whaling among the craft — turtles — brilliant phos-
phorescence. *

The hazardous profession of the experienced whaler,
is a chapter of personal adventures. Narrow escapes
from death, mark his career, and the ordinary dangers to
which he is exposed; the prospect of which often blanch-
es the cheek of the novice, have become familiar and are
forgotten in the ardor of his exciting pursuit. The tedious
hours of the dog watch in the evening have often been
beguiled by the officers with their tales of adventures
during former voyages, while we have been walking the
deck or lounging in the boats. Capt Richards has led
rather the most exciting life of any of us. Upon two
occasions, he has been knocked out of the boat by a
stroke from the flukes of a whale while he was leaning
over in the opposite direction and looking out for the
whale as he rose to the surface of the water. Upon
another occasion, he was thrown several feet into the
air by a whale coming up suddenly under the boat, and
as he fell struck upon the head of the whale, but fortu-
nately received no injury. At another time when among
a school of right whales, one of the boats close by him
was placed in a very critical position. A large whale
that had been struck, upon coming up to blow, shot up,

155

flukes first, which glancing along the side of the boat,
hung over the terrified crew, as if ready to annihilate
them in an instant. The men sprang out of the boat to
avert the impending fate, except the officer commanding
her, who retained his post undaunted, awaiting the fury
of the agonized monster, who in an instant, however,
withdrew his enormous flukes, and gliding them under
the boat, knocked the two men that were hanging to the
gunnel, into the boat ! I would not venture to state a
thing apparently so incredible, had I not been assured of
the fact upon such unquestionable authority.

Monday^ March 9. For some time past, great num-
bers of black fish (a smaller kind of whale,) have made
their appearance, sometimes coming close up to the ship,
and amusing us with their gambols. On Saturday last,
towards evening, a large school of them was announced
coming in the direction of the ship. Three boats were
lowered, and after a long chase, one of them was struck.
The "fast boat" was whirled round and round, but
exhausted by repeated strokes of the lance the black fish
" turned up" and was towed to the ship, accompanied by
all his companions spouting and foaming around the
boats like attendant tritons. So affectionate are these
poor fish, that when one of their number is struck by the
whaler, the school continues around the sufferer, appear-
ing to sympathize with him in his agonies. Even when
dead, they do not desert him, and it was not until a long
time after the victim had been hoisted upon deck, far
from their sight, that they abandoned him.

The captive was of unusual size, measuring twenty one
feet, one inch in length. The head of the blackfish is large
and clumsy like that of the sperm whale. His dorsal fin
is very large, and his side fins are long. His spiracle is
situated very nearly over the eye, throwing out a large

156 CRUISE IN THE PACIFIC.

white perpendicular jet. The black fish in common with
the sperm whale, feeds upon " squid," a specimen of which,
nearly entire, was found in the maw of the captive. The
squid (sepia octopus,) is a singular animal. His body is
nearly cylindrical, terminating in a broad tail which can
be expanded or folded up around the smaller part of his
body. His beak, which is shaped like that of a parrot, is
set abruptly upon the body, and from every side of it are
sent out numerous arms, which grasp his food and bring
it to his mouth. The entire animal consists of a flabby
mass of a white color, not unlike very stiff blanc mange,
and by the natives of many of the Pacific Islands is
regarded as a great delicacy. The length of this spe-
cimen was about three feet including the extended
brachia.

Tuesday, March 10. During the last night, we
crossed the Equator for the second time since leaving
the United States. Soon after breakfast, this morn-
ing, a large school of sperm whales was seen from
masthead, and all the boats darted off in pursuit of
them. In calm, still weather, such as was the case
at this time, the utmost caution is requisite in approach-
ing a school of whales, as any noise or unusual agita-
tion in the water is perceived by them at a great
distance. After the boats have been propelled with
oars for a suitable distance, the oars are drawn in, and
the paddles are resorted to, by which they are slowly
and carefully moved along, or whenever it is possible,
by the sail, which wafts them gently among the school
without alarming them.

The adventure was successful, and the captive was
hauled alongside amid shouts of applause, and the
process of " cutting in " was immediately commenced.
The blubber had just been taken aboard, when " there

SCHOOLS OF SPERM WHALES. 157

she blows," resounded throughout the ship, and the boats
were again lowered, and put off for the attack of a large
school of sperm whales, about four miles off, that were
"breeching" and "turning flukes" in the most phantastic
manner. After a most cautious approach, and much
maneuvreing, one of the number was .struck. The
whole school was instantly seized with panic, and with
such of us as recollected the fate of the Essex, the alarm
was by no means inconsiderable, as we saw this immense
throng of monsters, over a hundred in number, come
rushing in the direction of the ship, like some impetuous
torrent, foaming and tearing along, and blowing the spray
high into the air. When about a quarter of a mile from the
ship, as the ship-keeper was about to tack ship to avert
their onset, they altered their course, and shot across our
bow with a loud noise like the distant roar of the surf.

There are such numbers of whale ships scattered all
over the ocean, it is not wonderful that whales have
become shy. We keep four men at mast-head on the
lookout, during the day time, so that a whale cannot
come up to blow within the limits of our horizon with-
out being discovered and pursued, if of a valuable spe-
cies. Fin back whales display themselves in the most
insolent manner every day close by us, and are very
lawless in their movements, a well known characteristic
of worthless characters.

Friday, March 13. A large sperm whale was cap-
tured this morning before breakfast. The sperm whales
in this region are remarkable for " breeching," or show-
ing themselves out of water ; their huge bodies falling
into the sea again, dash the spray to the height of thirty
or forty feet, looking at a distance like some sudden
convulsion of the ocean, while "there she bre-e-ches," is
sounded from the lookouts aloft — re-echoed from deck —

14

158 CRUISE IN THE PACIPTC.

"square the yards !" shouts the captain, and we are bear-
ing down upon our game, who little think that their
merry gambols provoke the attack of their destroyer.
Though the organ of hearing in the sperm whale, is so
small, yet their sense of hearing is acute. When a large
school are feeding, they remain for some time upon the
surface of the sea spouting frequently, and " breeching,"
or " fan-tailing," i. e. displaying their flukes in the air.
With all the noise and commotion of the water caused
by their boisterous sport, they are not alarmed, but
continue near the same place, descending at their leisure,
one after another, with their flukes thrown high into the
air, and rising again to recover breath. Let one of the
school become alarmed at the approach of danger, and
with a flourish of his flukes, well understood, the alarm
is instantly communicated to the others, though scattered
for several miles over the ocean, and they betake them-
selves to precipitate flight. In rough weather, whales
are much more accessible, as the tumult of the waves
deadens the sound of the oars as thpy strike the water.

It happens, not unfrequently, that whales, though
mortally wounded, make their escape and are afterwards
fallen in with at sea by some other ship. To prevent
any broils, the consequences of which would be terrible,
as might be supposed from the formidable equipment of
the conflicting parties, the laws of whaling are very
definite and well understood. In cases like the one I
have mentioned, the whale becomes the property of the
captor, provided there is no harpoon or lance sticking in
the carcase, bearing the mark of the ship by which he
was killed. The law of whaling decides that "craft
claims the whale," that is, the whale belongs to those
who killed him, if they present themselves and lay claim
to him in consequence of the harpoon or lance found

LAWS OP WHALING. 159

sticking in the carcase. If however, the captor succeeds
in " cutting in " the whale before the other ship proves
her claim, he is entitled to all the blubber aboard his
ship. Should the other ship arrive during the progress
of this operation, and prove her claim, she would be per-
mitted to take all below the " planksheer," or the level
of the deck.

Tuesday, March 24. We have taken several fine
turtles within a few days, weighing from fifty to eighty
pounds each, which made a very pleasant interlude in
our accustomed fare. These turtles exhibited a most
remarkable tenacity of life. Some time after their heads
had been separated from their bodies, as the cook pro-
ceeded to cut them up, it was a very painful sight to
witness their contortions of agony ; and their heads, as
they lay upon deck, for more than half an hour after
being severed from their bodies, laid hold of whatever
touched them, with convulsive energy, while their eyes
glared wildly every few minutes. I was told by one
of the crew, that these heads would live nine days, an
observation as veracious probably as the fabled vitality
of the cat, with her nine lives.

We are now cruising in Panama bay, in latitude 3°
north, and with a broiling sun over our heads, and
scarcely a breath of wind to mitigate the intensity of his
rays, our situation is almost intolerable. At night, the
phosphorescence of the sea is magnificent ; every dash
of the sea throws out myriads of brilliant spangles, and
the fish darting by, leave a long line of fire after them.
This evening, in drawing up a large rope attached to a
shark hook, with which I had been amusing myself
during the day, my attention was arrested by the phos-
phorescence of the rope ; which looked like a robe of
glittering spangles. After repeated experiments, I found

160 CRUISE IN THE PACIFIC.

that the intensity of the light was greatly increased by
the friction of my hand, and when it gradually waned
so as to be almost imperceptible, by the same means, the
light was renewed. If these phosphorescent points of
light emanate from animalculse — the prevalent opinion
among naturalists — the variations of the light in intensity
seems to imply that when these animalculae are quies-
cent, the light they emit is faint, but when they are
roused by anything which agitates them, they exhibit
those brilliant phosphorescent spangles that gem the
dark wave at night.

Thursday, March 26. This afternoon, a large school
of black fish made their appearance within a short dis-
tance of the ship. Some of them were not much larger
than porpoises, and the school probably numbered over
a thousand. Longitude 83° 55'. We are now steering for
Tacames,, a small town upon the coast of Colombia, not
far from the equator.

CHAPTER XIV.

VISIT TO TACAMES

Situation of Tacames — Interesting appearance of the vege-
table kingdom — Tropical fruits — Landing in the surf —
Density of the forests — An incident — Phosphorescence of
fish after death — carousals on shore.

Sunday, March 29. About four bells, (10 o'clock)
this morning, " Land ho !" was proclaimed from aloft,
and by the latter part of the afternoon, we lay at anchor
off Tacames, a small town on the north-western coast of
South America, latitude 0° 58' north, longitude 79° 23/
west, in an open roadstead, about three miles from shore.
This is the first time we have anchored since leaving
America, a period of more than five months ; and the
prospect of setting foot once more upon terra firma, was
to all of us very pleasant. We landed this afternoon at
the mouth of a small river about two miles from Ta-
cames, where were two or three houses in an opening be-
tween the high clayey hills which bound the coast. Cap-
tain R., is well acquainted with the Spanish language of
the coast, which was acquired during his captivity
among the Spaniards, by whom he was taken prisoner
several years ago, while at the island of St. Marys, near
the coast of Chili, at the time of the revolutionary move-
ments in the western provinces of South America. Ail

14t*

162 VISIT TO TACAMES.

the ship's company were compelled to bear arms in the
ranks of one of the parties contending for the sovereignty
of the country, but after a long servitude, he made his
escape with his comrades in an open boat, and after
encountering many dangers and sufferings, arrived at
Valparaiso, where he easily obtained passage homeward.
The houses of the inhabitants are all constructed after
the same plan. They are elevated upon posts about
eight feet from the ground, which renders them cool and
airy, and protects the occupants from the sand flies. A
species of large reed, is the universal building material,
while the roof thatched with forest leaves, is the most
complicated part of the architecture.

I could not but admire the exuberant growth of every
thing belonging to the vegetable kingdom. The most
delicious pine apples spread out before us, while the
cocoanut tree, the plantain and the banana waved their
broad leaves gracefully in the breeze. Here were oran-
ges, limes and other fruits lying scattered around in
neglected profusion. The fig tree had also begun to put
forth, and the indigo plant grew spontaneously like the
most common weed. After obtaining the information
we desired, with regard to a suitable place to procure
water, we launched our boat through the surf and were
soon aboard the ship.

Friday. April 4. We are again under way, and
while the ship is dashing on over the billows, I hasten to
give a sketch of what took place while we lay at anchor
off Tacames.

On Monday morning, two boats were despatched with
a raft of casks, to be filled with water in the creek, about
a mile from shore. Large casks, holding from five to
seven barrels, are selected for such purposes, and are

AN INCIDENT. 163

thrown overboard with a rope upon each side passing
through a couple of " beckets " or loups confined by the
hoops of the casks.

Having arranged our raft, with two boats ahead, we
passed safely through the surf, and made our way up
the creek, inhaling the delightful fragrance that arose
from the woods. The trees along the margin of the
creek sent their long, slender branches into the earth
again, forming a thicket so dense, that hardly anything
but the scarlet land crab, of which we saw great num-
bers, could traverse it at all. We proceeded on, until
we were obliged to stop where the river was too shallow
to float the boats, and then commenced filling our casks,
while I went into a house near at hand, to make a call
upon some Spanish ladies who came down to the bank
of the stream to welcome us. Each of them was decked
off with all the finery she could display, and held a cigar
in her pretty mouth, from which wreaths of smoke were
sent forth, with all the grace of the most fastidious
proficient.

My visit was conducted almost entirely in pantomime,
as I was unacquainted with their language, and it was
very short, (which is not always the case with those that
have but little to say,) and I started in pursuit of game,
but found it impossible to proceed in any direction,
owing to the dense thickets that opposed my progress.
Becoming weary of fishing, to which I had recourse for
amusement,! endeavored to make my way along the
creek down to the sea shore, where I might exercise my
skill at pleasure upon the pelicans that were assembled
in great numbers upon the beach, picking up whatever
might be thrown up by the sea. After advancing a few
yards amid numberless difficulties, I was brought to a
stand, finding it impossible to proceed forward and nearly

164 VISIT TO T AC AMES.

so to return ; besides, I did not much fancy penetrating
into these thickets which are infested with serpents of
the most venomous character, as well as with scorpions
and centipedes of every variety. While waiting upon the
bank at a loss what to do, a boy came paddling along in
a little nutshell of a canoe, seated very composedly in
the stern of his craft. With the assistance of a real (12£
cts.,) he comprehended my desire of going down to the
beach, and ranged his canoe alongside the bank, for me
to embark. The moment I put my foot into the canoe,
she filled with water and turned me into the stream over
my head. Weighed down by several pounds of shot, and
having a gun in my hand, I found myself paddling
about at a very great disadvantage, especially as the
current was setting me down towards the beach in a style
I had not anticipated. Finding it impossible to do any-
thing while thus encumbered, I was forced to drop my
gun, and then without much difficulty I regained the
bank, where I stood reflecting upon the awkwardness of
the disaster, of which the fair ladies I had been visiting
were admiring spectators, a doubly aggravating circum-
stance, for one would deprecate appearing before the
ladies in such a predicament, unless in their behalf.

Several of the crew perceiving my misfortune, has-
tened to my assistance and immediately plunged in after
the gun, which was brought up after much exertion,
notwithstanding the disinterested advice of a Spaniard,
who stood looking on, not to attempt its recovery.
With the agreeable reflection that the boats could not
start for the ship in less than an hour and a half, I
adjourned to a neighboring house — not the one I visited
before — for my appearance was altogether too heroi-
comical for that.

We passed down the river in fine style, with three

AN INCIDENT. 165

boats followed by a long line of casks, making the dark
woods echo upon every side with our songs.

Towards evening, by invitation, I accompanied Capt.
R., in a hunting excursion up the creek we had ascend-
ed during the morning. On our way we shot several
pelicans, great numbers of which frequented this place,
assembling in flocks upon inaccessible trees, or stretch-
ing along the beach in pursuit of their prey. Upon
our return to the ship, during the night, happening to
awake from sleep, I was startled by the appearance of
two balls of fire, like the eyes of some malignant being
glaring horridly upon me in the darkness. With all my
philosophic disbelief in supernatural appearances, super-
stitious feelings were rapidly gaining the supremacy,
when it occurred to my mind that this apparition was
nothing more than the phosphorescence emitted by a fish
I had hung up in the state room during the evening, on
the body of which two spots were glowing with peculiar
brightness.

It is customary whenever a whale ship goes into
port to recruit, to allow the crew to go ashore by-
watches alternately, and ramble around for the benefit
of their health. On Tuesday morning therefore, per-
mission was given to the starboard watch to go ashore,
" on liberty," as this privilege is termed. An overhaul-
ing of " shore clothes," from the bottoms of chests suc-
ceeded, and in a few minutes — for Jack's toilet is soon
made — the second mate left the ship, with his entire
watch to have a holiday on terra firma. The latter
part of the forenoon, Capt. R., and myself landed at
Tacames, which is situated upon a river, at the mouth
of which, the surf breaks in all its fury over a long
sand beach. No one can have an adequate idea of
the difficulty of landing in the surf, unless he has derived

166 VISIT TO T AC AMES.

it from experience. As the mighty waters of the ocean
come bounding along, they acquire a tremendous mo-
mentum, and burst upon the shore with a violence that
makes the earth tremble with the shock. The whale
boat from its shape and the security of its steering oar, is
better adapted for ensuring safety in the surf, than the
common class of ship's boats. When among the break-
ers, upon looking behind, you see the swollen waters
gathering in dread array, and with increasing velocity
sweeping in a mighty mass, presaging destruction to
every opposing obstacle. The angry wave curls above
the stern, and bursting, is divided upon each side of the
boat, which is hurried forward with the speed of the
wind at each impulse of its wrathful pursuer.

Upon arriving at the village, we found that the
Alcalde, or head man, had gone off to the ship, and we
hastened to return therefore, as soon as possible. Here
we met the Alcalde, and an Englishman, who accompa-
nied him, to assist in making a bargain with the Cap-
tain for goods of various kinds.* This Englishman
had led a life full of adventures. He ran away
from an English ship to which he belonged, and lived
for a while among the natives of the Navigator Is-
lands, by whom he was regarded as a great warrior,
and acquired such an influence over them, that he
persuaded them to abandon many of their barbarous
customs and adopt some of the arts of civilized life. I
saw his wife at Tacames, a very pretty English woman,
but with the seal of death impressed upon her feeble form.

Towards sunset, the Alcalde and the Englishman
started for the shore in one of our boats. When we got

* Masters of whale ships usually carry out a quantity of merchandize, and
many of them realize a very handsome profit upon their dry goods and
nicknacks.

CAROUSALS ON SHORE. 167

into the surf, through negligence the stern of the boat
was not pointed towards the breakers — a heavy roller
came bounding after us — it was too late to avert its
attack, and we were whirled around broadside to the
combing wave, and were immediately full of water. At
that moment the men jumped out, and hurried the boat
upon the beach before another roller had time to over-
take us. The goods purchased by the Alcalde were now
displayed well saturated with salt water, amid his
varied exclamations and execrations in Spanish, the
peculiar force of which we were utterly unable to
appreciate, and received with a becoming nonchalance.

We now directed our steps towards the village, in
search for the starboard watch, whose loud shouts and
songs indicated very readily where they were. The
condition in which we found most of them, I shall pass
over in silence, as a scene I would gladly forget. In
a short time we returned to our boat to make the
attempt of going off to the ship ; but the tide was too low
for the boat to float in the river, and the surf combed
fearfully upon the beach not far from us. Deeming the
attempt too hazardous, we concluded to wait until day-
light, and returned to the village to spend the night as
well as we could. As we moved forward, we were
attracted by a light under one of the houses, and upon
coming up to it, I found it to be a house Captain R. and
myself had visited during the forenoon at the request of
the owner, to prescribe for his mother and sister that
were laboring under an attack of the fever and ague.
Every where we went, I was introduced as the " Phy-
sico," or physician of the ship, a title more agreeable
to the comprehensions of the inhabitants than that
of "passenger," and I had no objection to bearing
it pro tern, although my claims to it were slender.

168 VISIT TO TACAMES.

Upon going up to the house, we found the Spaniard
feeding his donkey, attended by his dutiful wife who
held the torch made of brown paper fed with spirits of
turpentine.

They requested us to walk up stairs and see the
invalids, and we were ushered into the bed room of the
ladies, where my comrades seated themselves with as
much independence and gravity, as if we constituted a
council of physicians. I gave the invalids each some
medicine, brought off from the ship which was taken
with many wry faces accompanied with " mucho malo,"
and other exclamations. After leaving some quinine
with them to be taken at regular intervals, we adjourned,
much to the relief of the ladies, into the adjoining room,
where some arrangements had been made for our accom-
modations during the night. My bed was the soft side
of a bench which extended around the room next to the
wall of the building, with a canopy of calico over me to
keep off the musquitoes. All their beds are furnished
with these appendages, without which, it would be
impossible to sleep, on account of the number and viru-
lence of these venomous insects. The third mate slept
in the hammock, a universal article of furniture in every
house, consisting: of a broad net work of reeds gathered
together at the two ends by cords with which it is sus-
pended to rafters overhead. In this, the Spanish ladies
are to be seen lolling for the greater part of the time,
vibrating backwards and forwards. Thus we passed the
night, roused from our slumbers every few minutes by
the sting of musquitoes, the howling of dogs, and the
braying of the donkey underneath us in reply to the sal-
utations of other donkeys. Qualis strepitus ! A combi-
nation of a squeal, a yell, and a grunt, thrown together
in one inharmonious concert.

up

THE ALCALDE. 169

At the first appearance of daylight, we were on the
move, and after hunting up the boat's crew, we hurried
down to the beach, stopping frequently to listen to the
savage cries of the wild beasts in the dense woods upon
the opposite side of the river. The equatorial regions
of South America are infested with many varieties of
beasts of prey, the most terrible of which is a species of
panther, called the "South American Lion," found
in great abundance in this neighborhood. We launch-
ed our boat into the surf after dragging her for thirty or
forty yards over the sand beach, and were soon along-
side the ship.

A few hours afterwards, I went ashore with the lar-
board watch to spend the day. Upon arriving at the
village we met the Alcalde, who invited me to visit his
"plantation," a mile or more from the landing place.
We wound our way through a thick wood, perfumed
with flowering shrubs and trees, and thronged with
lizards, halting every few minutes for the eloquence of
the Alcalde to expend itself in vain attempts to induce
me to sell a pair of pantaloons that graced my person, the
acquisition of which he had taken very much at heart
and had lavished an abundance of oratory upon me with
no better effect, on the preceding day. The boasted
" plantation" consisted of three or four acres of land, part
of which was under cultivation. On one side, a small
field of corn was pointed out to us, with great self com-
placency by his Honor, expecting Yankees who had
seen cornfields extending as far as the eye could reach,
to burst into ecstacies at this exhibition of his agricultu-
ral enterprise. Near the house was a sweet potato
patch, where sat a man, a la Turc, among the vines
digging with a stick the potatoes engaged for the ship.

Upon entering the house we were well received by

15

170 VISIT TO TACAMES.

the sister of the Alcalde and a fair eyed girl related to
them. Both of these were invalids ; the former was
in the last stages of the pulmonary consumption, a
disease which I thought confined to our own capri-
cious and inhospitable clime. With an "adios,"
(adieu,) we returned to Tacames, where in company
with one of the boatsteerers, I took a particular survey
of the settlement. Every house that had an invit-
ing appearance we entered, and made a short call upon
its inmates, when we were always well received. My
character of "Physico," brought me a constant prac-
tice whenever I went ashore. Every fair one ima-
gined herself sick, and presented her arm tor me to exa-
mine her pulse. The females all have beautiful arms and
hands ; the occasion too, was very favorable for exhibit-
ing them. In these cases, looking very profound, if they
seemed well enough, I answered confidently, " no infirmo
Signora." If however, the patient was really unwell, my
answer was given in an encouraging tone " poco infirmo,"
(slightly sick,) as if there was nothing to fear. My
assurances were received with implicit confidence
apparently, which doubtless was of no disadvantage to
them. It is a singular fact that in proportion to the
beauty of the fair applicant, a longer time was required
to count the pulsations of her arm; an opinion was
pronounced upon the old and ugly almost at sight. The
ladies were many of them very pretty, with an inimitable
grace of movement ; and I could easily imagine, that the
soft intonations of that noble language to one acquainted
with it, seconded by a glance from their dark flashing
eye, must prove irresistable.

In our rambles we visited the chapel, an oblong build-
ing standing in an open space. The thatched roof is
composed of two parts, as if, after its construction, it had

THE CHAPEL. 171

been divided longitudinally, upon each side of the ridge,
and the upper part elevated two or three feet above the
lower, an arrangement admirably adapted for coolness.
A matting of reeds covered the ground, and at the fur-
ther end was the altar, upon the top of which was a
representation of the Saviour on the cross. Down the
sides of the altar, the drippings of sperm candles used in
the service, had run like the stalactites of some subterra-
nean cavern. Adjoining the altar was the vestry room,
in which were stiff looking images intended no doubt, to
play pantomime on great occasions. One or two rickety
benches were all the seats provided for the accommoda-
tion of the audience.

We took dinner at the house where 1 had spent the
night. A soup was made for us out of an antiquated
fowl, which some supposed might have belonged to the
original stock introduced by Pizarro. The soup was,
however, very well, and with a due mixture of green
corn, sweet potatoes, and cassada, besides several
unknown accompaniments, there was sufficient for
six or eight of us. We were charged about two dollars,
partly for our dinner, and partly for the privilege we
assumed of laughing at our hosts and rallying them upon
the origin of the " pauvre galina."

Towards sunset, the third mate and I, accompanied by
three of the crew, launched the bow boat into the surf,
and some way or other we passed safely through the
combing breakers, which was more than we expected, as
one of the men was drunk and refused to pull, and
another one was so far under the influence of " aquar-
dente," as not to know which end of the boat to face. It
was a wonder we were not "swamped," and every one
lost. We had but just emerged from the breakers when

172 VISIT TO TACAMES.

the man who had refused to pull, suddenly " peaked" his
oar, and plunging into the sea, endeavored to reach the
shore, while we continued to pull ahead until we were
out of the reach of danger, when we lay to, watching his
movements. Although a powerful swimmer, he still
continued where we left him, struggling in vain among
the waves, for the " undertow" or reaction of a heavy
surf always throws the swimmer farther and farther from
the shore, unless he has been taughfby experience how
to manage. The fate of the man appeared to be inevita-
ble, as he was almost exhausted by vain efforts to reach
the shore, when the question was debated whether we
should turn about and endeavor to save the sufferer at
the risk of our own lives, or abandon him to his awful
fate. One of the men proposed to let him go, but the
mate declared that he could never see a man drown
before his eyes without an effort to save him ; and with
a vigorous stroke of the steering oar, the boat was in an
instant pointing towards the breakers, and at the immi-
nent hazard of being " swamped," we rescued the man.
who was now completely exhausted. We had but just
room enough to turn round without coming within the
reach of the breakers, and after a hard pull, we reached
the ship, where 1 met a padre, or priest from Tacames,
no ways remarkable, except for his plump cheeks, and
the huge masses of beef he devoured at supper.

Thursday was devoted to the reception of the fruits
and vegetables purchased for the ship, of which a most
abundant supply was obtained. When the bananas,
plantains, and other fruits were suspended upon deck and
from aloft, the ship looked as if she had been dressed off
with evergreens for some festive occasion, while the cabin
and state rooms were full of the finest oranges, limes, pine-

SUPPLY OF FRUITS. 173

apples and cocoanuts, according to the testimony of the
officers, of a quality superior to that of any tropical fruits
they had ever seen in any part of the world.

The plantain is very similar in appearance to the
banana, which I have described in another place. The
fruit when ripe, is a soft, sweetish, golden colored pulp,
from ten to twelve inches long, with a slender core set
thick with minute purple seeds. The pod containing
the fruit is readily stripped off, and the plantain when
sliced and fried, is one of the most delicious esculents I
ever tasted. The banana in taste, reminds me of the
richest orange pears we have at home. We have seve-
ral enormous bunches on board, containing from two to
three hundred bananas each, for which we paid but
twenty-five cents.

The Cocoa-nut tree rears a tall, slim, branchless trunk,
rising sometimes to the height of thirty or forty feet.
From the top of it, spring forth broad filamentous leaves
of a dark green hue, waving gracefully to every passing
breeze, among which, the nuts, often numbering twenty
or thirty, encased in thick husks, adhere closely to the
trunk of the tree. The cocoa-nuts we have on board
contain a pint or two of a delicious beverage, whose re-
freshing richness is unknown to us at home. The Pine
Apple grows in a sandy soil, immediately upon the
ground, surrounded by a circle of long grassy leaves,
tipped at their extremities with a delicate orange red.
The specimens of this fruit on board are very large, and
extremely delicious, with a fibre so tender as to admit of
their being eaten with a spoon.

We also procured a supply of limes at the rate of
twelve and a half cents per hundred. They are about
twice the size of ordinary limes and are so juicy that the

15*

174 VISIT TO TACAMES.

juice of but thirty-two of them, expressed without much
care, filled a large junk bottle.

We left our anchorage early on Friday morning, with
a strong land breeze ; the shores of South America ra-
pidly faded from our sight, and soon we were out to sea,
where the sky and the blue waters meet to form the circle
of the horizon.

CHAPTER XV.

VOYAGE TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Approach the Gallapagos Islands — Narrow escape from
shipwreck — Steer for the Society Islands — Capture of a

LARGE WHALE — MOTHER Cart's CHICKENS — PEAKED-NOSE SHARK

: — Dangerous situation of the ship — Steer for the Sandwich
Islands— Trade winds — Arrival at Oahu.

Saturday ', April 11. Yesterday afternoon, Chatham
Island, the most easterly of the Gallapagos group, began
to be dimly seen above the western horizon, and at even-
ing its outlines were distinctly marked out by the setting
sun, though still at a great distance. A beautiful even-
ing succeeded, and the still breeze that fanned us along
was highly refreshing after the heat of the day : for we
were but a few miles south of the Equator. With the
prospect of a fine day on the morrow, our guns and fish-
ing gear were made ready for a hunting and fishing ex-
cursion we had in contemplation, and I retired to my
berth full of the anticipated sport of the coming day.

The wind continued light, and we moved slowly up
towards the Island, which from the shadowy appearance
that distant land always presents, gradually assumed a
more real existence. The watches took care of the ship
alternately, as usual, and a bright look-out was kept as
we approached the dark mass lying directly before us.
Before midnight, the ship was heading one or two points

176 TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

off the land, but as she still neared the Island, the officer of
the watch came down a little before three o'clock, to re-
ceive instructions from the captain with regard to altering
her course. I happened to be awake at the time, form-
ing plans for our excursion, and heard the officer ascend
the companion way and walk forward a few steps, when
we were all thrown into alarm by the noise upon deck
and the loud voice of the officer, " Put your helm hard

down ! down with it ! Capt. Richards ! Capt. Rich "

Before the words were out of his mouth, the captain and
his officers bounded upon deck, and at that moment, the
ship, with a tremendous shock that shook every timber,
and reverberated through her frame with a heavy hollow
sound, struck upon a reef of rocks. All hands hurried
upon deck, some with low exclamations, and a few with
spare articles of clothing which were stowed away in the
boats.

" Let go your halliards, fore and aft," shouted the
captain. A shrill creaking of sheaves, as the ties, run-
ners and halliards ran over them, was heard from aloft,
and the lofty yards settled down upon their lifts — the
foresail clewed up, and the gib and staysails run down.
* Tumble aft — tumble aft there some of you and lower
down the starboard-quarter boat." The boat was lower-
ed, manned, and proceeded to sound in the neighborhood
of the ship. Close under the lee bow, the depth of
water was but nine feet, and a little ahead twelve feet,
an ill-omened position for a ship drawing eighteen feet
of water. The fate of the North America was appa-
rently sealed, and while the captain and officers were
awaiting with intense anxiety the reports of the sound-
ing line, I had an opportunity of taking a more deliberate
survey of our situation. On the larboard side, the high
outlines of Chatham Island rose up gloomily from the

ESCAPE FROM SHIPWRECK. 177

sea, not more than a quarter of a mile off, while on the
starboard side was a small rock, about a ship's length off,
forming part of the ledge upon which the ship thumped
heavily every few minutes. Upon this rock several seals
were collected together, whose dismal howls rendered
the scene the more terrible.

Meanwhile a small anchor attached to the "cutting
falls" had been carried out astern and dropped, and with
all hands hold of the line, the attempt was made to haul
the ship off the ledge stern-foremost, but in vain, and
the line was made fast to prevent the ship running
upon the rocks any farther. The loss of the ship
seemed inevitable — the alternate rise and fall of the
swell lifted her up to hurry her fate as she fell pow-
erless with a hollow groan upon the grating rocks below.
Small casks were filled with water, and some bread
was brought from the steerage to be put into the boats
upon abandoning the wreck, and the boats also were
made ready for instant service. To improve the little
time that might elapse before the ship should begin to go
down, I descended into the cabin, and with a sigh over
my books and other valuables, proceeded to select my
most durable suit of clothes and put them on as well as
I was able, while each shock of the ship almost threw
me from off my feet. While thus employed, Capt. K.
made his appearance, exclaiming in a sorrowful tone,
" This is the last we shall see of the North America—
we shall have to take to the boats before long, if she con-
tinues to thump in this way." This, indeed, was the
universal opinion, as each rude shock seemed to forbode
the certain destruction of the ship. Most providentially,
the wind was light, and the swell was not formidable in
the narrow channel where we were fixed upon the rocks.
On our starboard bow there was a passage into deeper

178 TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

water, and our only hope for the preservation of the ship,
appeared to be, in carrying one of onr heavy anchors in
this direction — dropping it — and then endeavoring to
warp her off the rocks.

The spare topmasts and other large spars were cast
loose from their lashings, and a raft commenced to
transport the anchor into the proper place, when at the
moment it was to be launched, the captain, who stood
upon the tafferei directing the movements of the men,
suddenly exclaimed, "the ship's afloat — cast off the stern
line !" This joyful intelligence thrilled through every
heart — the men sprang to execute the command, and the
ship glided slowly past the ledge of rocks into deeper
water ; and as sail after sail was hoisted and sheeted
home, in a few minutes we were out of all danger.
When the sun rose above the horizon, the scene of our
disaster was just visible far astern.

The Gallapagos Islands are an extensive group lying
under the equator in longitude 90° west. They are of
a volcanic nature, extremely rugged in their surface and
covered over with dwarf shrubbery and prickly pears.
Upon several of these islands are found great numbers
of terrapins, weighing frequently five or six hundred
pounds, and surpassed by nothing in the catalogue of
gastromanie. Springs of water are very rarely met
with, and these are indicated by the paths leading to them
made by the terrapin. Among the wild tracts which
cover these barren islands, individuals wandering from
the parties with whom they were hunting terrapin, have
miserably perished for want of water, and human skeletons
have been found at different times declaring the horrid
fate of the lost sufferers. It is no uncommon occurrence
for men that have strayed from their parties to be lost
for a day or two. Their only resource to alleviate their

AN INCIDENT. 179

thirst is to cut open a terrapin and drink the fluid in his
stomach, which I am told, like that of the camel, contains
a reservoir of water, sufficient for the animal for a long
time. One of our men told me, that when hunting
terrapin at one of these islands, some time ago, he was
separated from his party for nearly three days. Full of
horrible apprehension at the dreadful fate which awaited
him, he ran madly about over the sharp rocks in every
direction, in the hope of catching a glimpse of the ship,
while his brain seemed ready to burst from the burning
heat of the sun and the maddening agony of his awful
situation. On the third day, he came in sight of the
ship's boat, as she was pulling off for the last time, after
his shipmates had searched for him in vain, and deposit-
ing a quantity of water and provisions in a conspicuous
place for his use, had abandoned him to his dreadful
fate.

If the ship had been wrecked at Chatham Island, the
tranquil weather of this region would have enabled us
to land from the wreck, provisions and water, of which
we had a supply for more than two months, as well as
any thing that might be necessary. This is a favorite
" cruising ground" of whalers, who would doubtless have
afforded us assistance, or one of the boats would have
been sent to Charles's Island, distant more than a hundred
miles, the only inhabited Island of the group. If these
expedients failed, the wreck would have supplied us with
ample materials for building a small vessel in which to
run into the coast.

Our utmost desire is now to reach the Society Islands
as soon as possible, where the ship will be unladen and
"hove down," to repair damages. The distance to the
coast is about six hundred miles, but as there are but
few conveniences that we require, in any of the Spanish

180 TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

ports, it is deemed advisable to steer for the Society '
Islands, distant about three thousand six hundred miles,
a long distance to pass over — farther than a voyage
to England — in a leaky ship, whose opening seams may
send her to the bottom before half that distance has been
traversed. Upon investigating the causes of our late
disaster, it appears to be attributable to an error of
judgment rather than to carelessness. The wind was
fair during the night, and the order was given to haul
the ship on the wind if she neared the land. The ship
accordingly was steered one or two points off the land, but
as the wind was light and there was a strong current set-
ting towards the Island, she drifted much faster than her
progressive motion, and from the haziness resting upon
the land, the distance of which is always very deceptive
at night, she was close upon the rocks when she appeared
to be several miles from the island.

Wednesday, April 15. It is a glorious evening.
The sun went down with a purple and golden splendor,
such as we see at home in our autumnal sunsets, an
unusual scene in the tropics, where night follows too fast
upon the steps of day for protracted twilight to intervene.
The full orbed moon too is sporting with her silvery
beams upon the glassy ocean. Just after sunset, the
surface of the sea seemed to be alive with thousands of
minute animals that threw out a purple light in their
gambols upon the water, looking very much like the
light emitted from some varieties of fluor spar when
thrown upon a plate of heated iron. These animals
were doubtless small fish, as they frequently sprang out
of water when attacked by larger fish to which they
served as prey. This is a very unusual exhibition ;
and indeed, it is said to be never seen except in low lati-
tudes after a long succession of calm weather.

CAPTURE OP A WHALE. 181

Thursday, April 16. On Monday last, we took a
large sperm whale, which yielded over sixty barrels of
oil. His head was too large to be hoisted upon deck as
on former occasions; the lower and middle sections
were hoisted in upon deck, while the case — (the cavity
in the upper part filled with almost pure sperm,) was
firmly secured in an upright position along side of the
ship, and the spermaceti bailed out of it.

After the process of " trying out" was completed, the
oil was " run down," an important operation aboard a
whale ship, which has taken place with us once or twice
before. The hold of large vessels is usually divided
into two parts, by a deck parallel to the upper deck. In
the lower hold of a whale ship the casks are carefully
arranged in tiers, some of which are filled with salt
water for ballast, which is pumped off', and oil substitu-
ted. There is a long hose leading from a tub which
receives the oil through an opening in the deck, as the
oil casks are successively rolled over the orifice. By this
expeditious method, seventy or eighty barrels of oil may
be " run down," in a very short time.

The teeth of the sperm whale vary from four to five
inches in length, and are imbedded more than two-thirds
in the lower jaw. They are susceptible of a very high
polish, and are beginning to be valued as an article of
merchandize, which has induced sperm whalers to col-
lect all the teeth of their captured whales, as constituting
a part of the profits of the voyage. The extraction of
the teeth is the practice of dentistry on a grand scale.
The patient, i. e. the lower jaw, is bound down to ring
bolts in the deck. The dentist, a boatsteerer, with
several assistants, first makes a vigorous use of his gum
lancet, to wit, a cutting spade wielded in both hands. A
start is given to the teeth, while his assistants apply the

16

182 TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

instrument of extraction to one end of the row, consisting
of a powerful purchase of two fold pulleys, and at the
tune of #"0! hurrah my hearties O !" the teeth snap
from their sockets in quick succession. (See the cut.)

Great numbers of Petrels or " Mother Carey's chick-
ens," flocked around the ship while the whale was along-
side,, and I succeeded in capturing several of them, by
hanging a few threads over the stern attached to a float to
keep them distended, in which the petrels, in flying around
the stern, became entangled and were easily secured.
The petrel is a very pretty bird, about as large as the
sparrow, having a dark brown, glossy plumage, with a
fringe of white feathers upon his back near the tail. His
nostrils unite in a single tube upon the upper mandible of
the bill, and he is web- footed like all sea birds. " Mother
Carey's chickens," as the sailors call these birds, are
found in every latitude all over the globe. They almost
seem to have sprung out of the ocean ; for in the storm
or the calm alike, they are seen skimming over the
waves in quest of food many hundred miles from land.

The "Mother Carey's chicken," was formerly re-
garded with superstitious fancies by the mariner. The
appearance of these birds in great numbers, was supposed
to be indicative of the coming storm, and while their
presence was a bad omen and to be deprecated, the
warning was received with a becoming reverence. To
shoot one of them would doom the rash offender to dire
misfortune. The petrel, therefore, was held sacred
in the creed of the prudent voyager.

" Up and down ! Up and down !
From the base of the wave to the billow's crown,
And amidst the flashing and leathery foam
The Stormy Petrel finds a home, —

PEAKED-NOSE SHARK. 183

A home, if such a place may be

For her who lives on the wide wide sea,

On the craggy ice, in the frozen air,

And only seeketh her rocky lair

To warm her young, and teach them spring

At once o'er the waves on their stormy wing !

O'er the deep ! O'er the deep .'

Where the whale, and the shark, and the sword fish sleep,

Outflying the blast and the driving rain,

The Petrel telleth her tale in vain ;

For the mariner curseth the warning bird

Who bringeth him news of the storms unheard !

Ah ! thus does the prophet, of good or ill,

Meet hate from the creatures he serveth still :

Yet he ne'er falters : — So Petrel ! spring

Once more o'er the waves on thy stormy wing."

Barry Cornwall.

The whale captured the other day was hauled along-
side at so late an hour, that the " cutting in " was defer-
red until the next day, and we were obliged to " lay by n
him all night. Great numbers of sharks were attracted
to the carcass, and on the succeeding morning, I caught
six or seven of them, with a large hook attached to a
chain to prevent its being bitten off' by the powerful
jaws of this voracious animal. The Peaked-Nose Shark,
of which variety these were specimens, is about seven
feet long. He has a long fin upon each side of his body,
black upon the upper side and white underneath. The
flukes are vertical and of unequal length ; the upper one,
the longer of the two, seems to be the only one used in
directing the motions of the animal. The mouth is
situated at some distance from the end of his nose, so
that he is obliged to turn over upon his side whenever
he bites. His terrible jaws are armed with extremely
sharp teeth, inclining inwards; in the lower jaw the
teeth are about half an inch long, and set in three rows j
in the upper jaw, there is but one row, but the teeth are

184 TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

larger and serrated. A bite from one of these animals
must be terrible indeed. Just forward of the side fins
are five orifices, which are the gills through which he
derives air from the water, and consequently is not
compelled, like cetacea, to come upon top of water to
breathe. The skin of the shark is very hard and rough
like a file, which renders it an excellent substitute for
sandpaper in smoothing wood work. The Peaked-Nose
shark, is known by the name of the Blue shark, from
the dark azure tint upon his back, which divides his
body into two equal shades, a dark and a light. He is
always accompanied by several pilot fish that swim
by his side, and manifest the greatest consternation
whenever their ferocious companion is captured. The
shark in all his varieties, is regarded with inveterate
hatred by the sailor, and is considered a legitimate
subject for the exercise of his skill in darting the lance
or spade, to which this savage animal is admirably
adapted from his apparent insensibility to pain. At the
repeated gashes he receives from these formidable instru-
ments, he manifests the utmost indifference and calm
composure, and even with a large hook in his mouth he
still continues to exercise his voracious propensities.
Aboard whale ships, sometimes, upon the capture of a
shark during the process of trying out, he is drawn up
out of water by two or three men, and a gallon or more
of boiling oil is poured down his open mouth, a most
cruel act, but defended on the ground that "nothing is
too bad for a shark."

Monday, April 20. A large school of sperm whales
was seen this afternoon, not far from the ship ; but the
imperative necessity of reaching port as soon as possible,
owing to the leaky state of the ship, obliged us to pass by
them unmolested, although some of the men exhibited

CROSSING THE EQUATOR. 185

the impatience of the curbed hunter for the attack.
Since our disaster, we have often been tantalized by such
displays, but a mighty ocean rolls between us and our
much wished for port, and the loss of some of our boats,
might be the consequence, our only hope in case the
ship should founder. We are now driving on before the
south-east trade wind, under a press of sail. No one is
sent aloft to look out for whales, and our best wish is to
reach our distant port in safety.

Wednesday, April 29. An amusing incident occur-
red this evening. One of the boatsteerers was walking
near the tryworks, when a large flying fish in endeavor-
ing to fly over the ship, struck him on the head near the
ear. The violence of the blow was such, that he at first
thought some one had struck him with his fist, an insult
which called his irascibles into vigorous action. But
seeing no one near him except the flying fish, he secured
his floundering captive, and recovered satisfaction by
cooking and eating him.

This fish was of unusual size, and would probably
measure from twelve to fifteen inches in length, having
two sets of wings, the larger located similarly with those
in other kinds, and the additional pair, which are much
smaller, situated about midway between the tail and the
other wings, giving to the fish two sets of propellors.
We see immense numbers of flying fish every day, rising
up on each side of the ship, as she dashes on over the
sea. There is a great diversity in their size, from those
of dimensions equal to the one mentioned above to those
that look like insects skipping over the waves.

Wednesday, May 6. Sometime this morning, we
crossed the equator, making the eighth time since leav-
ing the United States. We are now bound for Oahu,

16*

186 TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

one of the Sandwich Islands, although our first intention,
after our disaster at the Gallipagos Islands, was to make
a direct course for the Society Islands, so that by
having land under our lee, we might run the ship ashore
to prevent her foundering. One of the pumps has been
kept in motion constantly, with the exception of short
intervals. Day after day an enumeration has been
made of the number of strokes of the pump, and it has
been with no ordinary solicitude that the extra strokes
of the pump denoting a daily increase, have been care-
fully noted. To wake up at dead of night and hear the
dismal clanking of the pump, and to feel that the in-
creasing leaks may send you to the bottom, are sufficient
to banish sleep, until anxiety has worked itself to rest.

Friday, May 15. After being becalmed for several
days in lat. 7° north, or thereabouts, we took the north-
east trade winds, which drive us rapidly on our course
under double reefed topsails. For several days, we
seemed to be in a region where the winds assembled
from every point of the compass, and for many hours we
had a fine breeze from the west, an unusual occurence
at sea within the tropics.

The trade winds, as I have before observed, are
regular breezes within the tropics setting towards the
equatorial regions, from north-east to south-west on the
north side, and from south-east to north-west on the
south side, although these courses are by no means
invariable, but admit of several points deviation. The
north-east trades usually cease in lat. 7° north, or
thereabouts, and there is here a region of calms, rain,
squalls, and water spouts, extending between the limits
of the trade winds, i. e. for one or two degrees, as the
south-east trades are commonly met with as soon as
four degrees, north latitude, although the limits of this

TRADE WINDS. 187

belt are by no means constant. At that season of the
year when the sun is north of the equator, the south-east
trades extend much farther to the northward of the line
than when the sun has a southern declination, and the
calm region is removed to a more northerly position ;'for
the solar rays, that give origin to all atmospheric
changes, being carried farther north during the summer
season, the rarefaction of the atmosphere in the equato-
rial regions, the cause of the trades, is removed farther
north, and vice versa, when the sun is approaching his
winter solstice. The greater extent of the south-east
trades, their blowing across the equator and meeting the
north-east trades far to the northward of the equator, are
curious facts. It would be more natural to suppose that
the region lying immediately under the equator would
be the neutral ground between the winds.

The north-east trades are more apt to be fresh and
squally than the south-east, which are commonly very
regular. For week after week the voyager is wafted along
by the south-east trades, without altering a sail, inhal-
ing a pure mild atmosphere, with a lovely sky overhead,
and a deep blue tranquil ocean extending upon each side
to the farthest bounds of the horizon, whose heaving
waters speed him on his course.

Saturday, May 23. On Wednesday evening last, as
the sun went down, the south-easternmost point of
Hawaii was dimly seen rising like a shadow above the
waves. On Thursday night, we ran down the passage
between Molakai and Maui with the intention of stop-
ping a day or two at Lahaina, a settlement on the latter
Island, but as the weather was thick and squally, the
attempt was deemed too hazardous. Yesterday morning
we came to anchor off the harbor of Honolulu, the capital

188 TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

of the Sandwich Islands, in forty days after our disaster
at the Gallapagos Islands, having sailed more than five
thousand miles in a leaky ship, with the pumps going
night and day. Though we arrived in safety at the port
of our destination, yet the passage was not without
great solicitude as may be readily imagined.

CHAPTER XVI.

SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Seamen's chapel — Honolulu harbor — Fruits and vegetables —
Appearance of the natives — Native dwellings — Police regu-
lations— Fort — Governor Kekuanoa — Capt. Brown — For-
eign residents — Horses and vehicles.

Sunday, May, 24. I attended church to-day, for the
first time since leaving the United States ; and after
being excluded from the privileges of the sanctuary for
many months, while roving over the vast ocean, it was
most welcome to me to unite in the exercises of religion
with the people of God in these remote Isles of the sea.
The services were held in the Seamen's chapel, a plain,
two story edifice, painted white, surmounted by a cupola,
from the top of which, the Bethel flag waves its wel-
come to the shipping in the port. The basement is
spacious, and is divided into several rooms, each of
which is appropriated to some object of public utility.
The discourse, delivered by Mr. Tinker, missionary from
Kauai (Towi) was a very creditable performance. Judg-
ing from appearances, the congregation was highly re-
spectable, and the music, though simple, impressed me
with emotions of pleasure such as the most studied har-
mony would have failed to do, on ordinary occasions.

Monday. May 25. After one or two attempts to enter

190 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

the harbor, which were unsuccessful, owing to the strong
breezes off the land, the ship was taken in this morning.
The anchorage outside the harbor is upon a shelving
bank which inclines at so great an angle, that a ship is
liable to drag her anchor when the wind blows hard off
the land. The depth of the water too, is very great, and
ships have been blown to sea, from the anchorage, with
seventy or eighty fathoms of chain out, with the pros-
pect of two or three days hard labor before they return
again. Before sun rise, there is usually a dead calm
under the lee of the land, but soon after the sun has risen,
the wind springs up, and increases until about noon,
when it blows fresh, coming down in strong puffs from
the mountains. Honolulu possesses a very fine harbor,
and is the only one in these Islands where ships may lie
in perfect safety, and undergo the repairs which may be
necessary. It is formed by a coral reef extending across
a recess in the Island of Oahu. Through an opening in
this barrfer, upon each side of which, the roaring surf
beats incessantly, is the passage into the harbor of about
a mile in length.

We broke. anchorage, about four o'clock, A. M., and
ran into the mouth of the passage under sail, when all
sails were run down, and a long line carried ashore to a
party of natives, fifty or more, who were stationed upon
the nearest point of land on the right hand side of the
passage. Then with loud shouts, they dashed through
the shallow water on the margin of the bay, and, with
the ship moving steadily along up the passage, soon con-
ducted her to her proper anchorage near the docks. It
is due to whalers to say, that they are noted for their
courtesy in proffering their boats and service to tow a ship
into harbor, and in rendering other acts of civility of this
nature. There was, however, but one whale ship in the

HONOLULU HARBOR. 191

harbor, which obliged us to employ natives, as I have
described, otherwise, we should have been towed in by
boats. At the head of the harbor, are several docks, the
timbers of which that extend below the surface of the
water, are always coppered, to defend them from the rav-
ages of animalculae, which start into life in countless
myriads in the tepid waters of the tropics.

Negociations, for the repairs of the North America,
have been made with Ladd & Co., an American mer-
cantile house, standing among the first in importance for
extent of business on these Islands. They furnish the
most ample facilities for heaving the ship down, as well
as commodious store-houses for the cargo, built of coral
stone, an article obtained from the reefs in great abun-
dance, and which is in frequent use as a building material.
There is also another ship-yard close by, belonging to
some ship carpenters, and provided with all the appara-
tus necessary for heaving down and repairing a ship. I
state these facts to give some idea of the importance of
these Islands to the commerce of nations afloat in the
north Pacific, an importance that can only be appre-
ciated by those that are disabled in this remote region of
the world.

- Honolulu stands upon a plain at the opening of the
valley of Nuanu, running across the Island between
high mountains, whose sterile peaks give but little indi-
cation of the fertility of the lovely valleys at their base.
There are several valleys upon the Island in a high state
of culture, and rich in verdure and productions. The
valley of Nuanu is the garden of Honolulu, exhibiting
every variety of fruits and vegetables. These consist of
delicious melons of several kinds, grapes, figs, pine
apples, bananas, plantains, taro, yams, sugar-cane, po-
tatoes, and the common culinary vegetables we have at

192 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

home. In their proper season, these are all brought
into town and are either exposed for sale in the mar-
kets, or carried around to the houses of the foreign
residents. All articles of merchandise of this kind are
transported in calibashes, large flat gourds, eighteen or
twenty inches in diameter, fitted with a cover of the same
material, and suspended in net work, attached to the ex-
tremity of a pole, which the native balances across his
shoulder, preserving the equilibrium by a corresponding
calabash containing merchandise, or with admirable sa-
gacity, substituting a large stone in preference to divid-
ing his load. This, however, is not peculiar to the Ha-
waiian Islands ; for in the "good old times" of New Am-
sterdam, many an honest cultivator of the soil was seen
riding to mill, with a bag of meal on one side of his
horse counterbalanced by a large stone, while the poor
animal went groaning under this most unphilosophical
load.

The sweet potato of these Islands is remarkably fine.
Its external appearance is like those amorphous yams
imported into the United States, from the West Indies,
and it admits of every variety of color, from a dark
purple, through the intermediate shades, to red, then to
green or yellow. There are several groves of cocoa-
nut trees on the beach. Though they shoot up to a great
height, they are wanting in that vigor of growth and
canopy of waving leaves exhibited by the cocoa-nut trees
of Tacames.

Honolulu contains about ten thousand inhabitants in
the town and the immediate vicinity. The foreign resi-
dents number not far from six hundred, and wear the
European costume. The toilet of the natives, that is,
of the masculine portion, is made in rather more of the
primitive style than 1 had expected to see. But a small

THE NATIVES. 193

proportion are to be seen with a pair of pantaloons,
except on Sundays and holydays. With but a maro
around the waist, and perhaps with a tapa or mantle of
native cloth, passing over the shoulder and knotted
under the opposite arm, they walk off with as much
dignity and consciousness of superiority as the more fa-
vored " lords of creation" display. I have seen a fellow,
in a sailor's heavy pea-jacket, which, when buttoned up
to his chin, concealed but half his person, strutting
through the street, in the broiling sun, at noon, too proud
to look at any one ; and another, with a strange disre-
gard of the rest of his person, with the exception of the
arrangement of the maro, was seen walking the streets
with his feet inserted into a pair of enormous boots, and
manifesting the utmost indifference to surrounding objects.
These incongruities are rather rare however, either from
an inability of the natives to possess themelves of these
luxuries, or because they prefer the simplicity of nature.
The native women are dressed in long gowns like the
loose morning dresses of the ladies of our country. To in-
crease their charms, of which, judging from appearances,
nature has not been very profuse, many of them tie a
gay shawl tightly around the waist, which gives them a
rather ludicrous gait. With a bright yellow shawl
around her waist, a wreath of brilliant feathers or flowers
encircling her brow, and a huge comb towering up with
masses of dark hair coiled around it, a Hawaiian lady is
dressed a la mode. The houses of the common people
are dingy looking cabins, the walls of which are con-
structed of adobies, blocks of moulded clay hardened in
the sun, and compacted by an admixture of grass. The
roofs are of thatch, which however, is a very common
covering for the outhouses of the foreign residents. The
residences of the chiefs are in one or two instances very

194 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

superior houses. There are now but few high chiefs of
the nation, many of them having died within a few years.
The authority of those now living is far less despotic
than was the case in former times. A man's rank
depends entirely upon the rank of his mother. If a
woman of high rank marries a man of low rank, all her
children will belong to the higher class : but if the case
is reversed, the children will be of low rank. Marriage
does not affect the rank of either party. Thus the Gov-
ernor of Oahu owes his station to his marriage with one
of the royal family. His rank, however, is that of an
inferior chief, and as his wife is dead, he is liable to be
deposed at any moment. The police regulations through-
out these islands are very good. Until within a year,
ardent spirits of all kinds were subject to so heavy a
duty, as to be almost prohibited, but the exertions of the
"highly enlightened and chivalrous" la belle France,
urged on by the clamors of a few brandy loving foreign-
ers, compelled these humble islanders to abrogate the
oppressive duties on ardent spirits, and accommodate
them to their convenience. A mode of determining the
tariff prevalent no where else except where u might gives
right." And these very men with an effrontery which
is really admirable, arrogate to themselves an important
place in the advancement of civilization and the arts of
life at the Hawaiian Islands !

The laws for the restraint of licenciousness are very
strict, the offenders being subject to imprisonment
at hard labor in the fort. The constables, when on
duty, carry a cane as the badge of office. While
the cargo is landing from the North America, two
or three of them are stationed about the wharf for its
protection as well as for repressing the curiosity of the
natives, that are not employed about the ship. The

THE FORT. 195

penitentiary system is adopted throughout these islands ;
criminals being compelled to labor on the roads or in
quarrying coral stone from the reefs, or in other public
works. Near the head of the harbor stands the fort, a
large area, nearly square, enclosed by a thick wall of
coral stone, which is finished off with white plaster. En
passant^ the Hawaiian islands are not dependent upon
foreign importations for the lime used in the construction
of buildings ; the reefs afford an exhaustless supply of
coral, a carbonate of lime, which when subjected to fire
is converted into as good lime as that which we obtain
from calcined shells. In the centre of the fort, rises the
flagstaff, upon which the national flag, (the British
Union, with alternate stripes of red and white,) is hoist-
ed every time a ship arrives, as well as on the Sabbath
and on pahau days, when the common people are
required to labor for the government. It was formerly
customary for the chiefs to exact every thing they might
choose from the canaille, who were compelled to work
almost every day to satisfy their oppressive demands.
But now, the authority of the chiefs is less arbitrary, and
these pahau or work days, do not recur so frequently.

The other day, I made a visit to the fort. On the
left hand side is a range of small buildings appropriated
to Kekuanoa, the Governor, parallel to which runs the
magazine, a stone vault ten or fifteen feet long. On the
right hand side there is a row of small thatched houses,
whose tops projecting a little above the ramparts, are
pierced with grated openings intended as dungeon
windows. These are the prisons of the island, although
the impression upon a stranger of their use as a place of
confinement would be rather vague. The Governor
manages however, to hold his prisoners pretty safe,

196 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

and in most cases, finds work enough for them to
do, to keep them out of mischief. The armament
of the fort consists of fifty or sixty iron guns, stationed
upon every side of the ramparts. Between each
of these, is a stone mound, of no possible use that I
could discern, except perhaps, to tumble into a breach
in the wall in case of an attack, for which they are
admirably disposed. The guns on the sea side are
twelve pounders I should judge, while those pointing
towards the town are much smaller. In the centre of
the line of guns pointing towards the sea, is a long brass
piece embossed with a great variety of ornaments and
inscribed with numerous Latin phrases, to construe
which would puzzle the ingenuity of king Kauikeaouli
and his chiefs. Previous to my going into the fort, I
had been told that no ceremony was expected of visiters,
in going the rounds of the fortifications, and as there
were no sentinels stationed at the gate, which was open,
I walked in without any delay, and ascended the battle-
ments for the purpose of taking a walk around them.
Before 1 had proceeded very far however, a native came
running across the area below, and in broken English
enquires — "Have seen de Gov'nor?" — "No, I have no
particular desire to see him just at this moment." " Aole
maikai ! (not good,) must see Gov'nor — 'spose you no
see, he tell you lawe aku, (go away.)" At this eloquent
appeal which sounded much better to my ear than —
"Hullo Mister, what you doing here?* You may just
take your walking papers and be off," with which a
foreigner intruding unintentionally into a similar place
in my own country, might have been saluted, I followed
the Kanaka. His excellency received me very politely,
and his salutation " aloha" was uttered with more

THE FORT. 197

dignity than the guttural intonations of the vulgar. But
a cloud gathered upon his brow when he was told that I
had the temerity to commence a review of his fortifica-
tions without having obtained his permission. " Why
you no come see Gov'nor?" demanded the Kanaka before
mentioned, who acted as interpreter. " Because I was
told that there was no necessity for that." " Who tell you
that?" My authority was given, at which they both ex-
claimed, " Aole maitai" in astonishment for the low es-
timation in which their dignity was held by the foreign-
ers. After conferring together for some time, I was
asked if " I did not see Governor when I went to see
fort in other country ?" " No !" I answered, if the Gov-
ernor does not wish any one to see his fort, he stations a
man at the gate to keep every one away. If he does not do
so, as you have not done, any man might come in and go out
as he chose." While this answer was under discussion,
I had a good view of the Governor. He is a large, well-
formed man, possessing that full developement of features
which characterizes the natives in distinction from the
foreigners, particularly Americans. His countenance
gave me the impression of moroseness, but this expres-
sion was owing to his feeling himself treated with dis-
respect, by my unceremonious introduction. He is con-
sidered as capable as any in the nation for the office he
holds, and possesses great dignity of manner. After a
good deal of meditation, he told me I might take a sur-
vey of the fortifications if I pleased. They are all very
anxious to adopt the customs of the most civilized nations.
Capt. Brown, of the whale ship " Catharine," of Nan-
tucket, arrived here the other day for the purpose of dis-
charging one of his men who is dangerously sick with a
pulmonary affection. In conversation with him, he
gave me an account of a personal adventure among the

IT*

198 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Marquesas Islands, which I relate, as it illustrates the
treacherous character of the natives of many of the
Polynesian Islands. Leaving Nookaheva bay in the
Island of Nookaheva, he sailed around to the opposite
side of the Island, for the purpose of trafficking with the
natives that assembled in great numbers upon the beach,
as his boat lay on the water, a few yards from the shore.
The Tipaiis, the name of this tribe, are very ferocious,
and to gratify their cannibal appetites, they are not very
scrupulous in making choice of their victims. Capt.
B., aware of their reputation for ferocity, disregarded all
their solicitations to land, but made an agreement with
them to supply his ship with a number of swine, which
were to be brought down to the beach on the coming
day. Accordingly, at the appointed time, these animals
were exhibited upon the beach tied together, and every
appearance of good faith was observed to induce the
captain to come on shore. For a long time he hesitated
about entrusting himself within their power, until after
assurances from a Spanish boy (who had accompanied
him from the opposite side of the island,) that there
would be no danger, he landed upon the beach. He
was instantly seized by a party of natives, and hurried
off to some distance from shore, while the swine were
cut loose that the savages had collected together to decoy
the captain within their reach. They now thronged
around him with horrid yells of triumph, and clamor-
ously demanded of him, as a ransom, forty musquets and
six kegs of gunpowder. As he was unable to comply
with their extravagant demands, a dreadful doom was
prepared for him. With awful anticipations of his horrid
fate, he saw them collecting together piles of dry wood,
and digging holes in the ground, to be used as ovens for
roasting him, upon the following morning; and it was

CAPTAIN BROWN. 199

with the agony of despair that he found himself sur-
rounded at night upon every side by his merciless cap-
tors. About midnight, however, he stole away from his
sleeping guards, in company with the Spanish boy, and
after wandering about among the mountains, he made
his escape to the tribe to which the Spanish boy belonged,
by whom he had been adopted, after running away from
some vessel which had stopped at Nookaheva. Capt. B.,
soon regained his ship, when the crew were eager to
take vengeance upon the savages for their treachery, but
he wisely restrained them, believing that any thing of
this kind would be retaliated upon the next ship that
might visit them. The day after his escape, the Tipaiis
challenged the friendly tribe to mortal conflict, upon their
refusal to give up into their power the man who had fled
to them for protection. A battle ensued between the
tribes, in which two men were killed upon each side,
and hostilities then ceased to allow the contending
parties the luxury of feeding upon their respective
prisoners.

Honolulu, the capital of the Hawaiian Islands, is
built upon a plain about a mile wide, washed by the sea
on one side and terminated by high mountains that rise
up abruptly in the rear of it. The town is laid out
regularly in wide streets with adobie walls running
parallel to them. All the enclosures here are made of
this material, which when plastered with lime and white-
washed, as is often the case, have a glaring effect con-
trasting with the sombre walls and dwellings of the na-
tives. The houses of the foreign residents are built in
cottage style, with green verandahs or piazzas around
them, while the adjacent grounds are tastefully laid out
and planted with trees and shrubbery. Belonging to
each, are several small outhouses in which the various

1

200 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

operations of domestic economy are conducted. The
number of foreign residents is not far from six hundred
as I observed before. Some of them live in good style
with their houses adorned with elegant furniture, and
command all the luxuries of foreign cities. It was
with no small interest that I heard the notes of the
piano forte, so many thousands of miles from my native
land. There have been musical concerts got up at Hon-
olulu, by amateur performers among the residents, the
proceeds of which have been given to charitable objects ;
and I have heard " a song for the oak, the brave old
oak," " Pensez a moi," and other well known airs, sung
with as much spirit and taste as in my own country.
The foreign residents are very hospitable, and the
kindness with which I have been received is extremely
gratifying. As far as I have been able to judge from
observation, there appears to be a division of sentiment
among them— those that favor, and those that have an an-
tipathy to the protestant missionaries. If you are known
to be a " missionary man," you will not be overburdened
with attentions from their opponents and vice versa.

I was much surprised when I was told that the
beautiful cottages belonging to the foreign residents,
were most of them built of adobies, and plastered with
lime. These answer, however, very well as a building
material, as they grow hard by age ; and as they are
protected from the rain, which rarely falls, by the pro-
jecting roof, they are sufficiently durable. There are
also several large and handsome dwelling houses and
stores, built of coral stone cut from the reefs.

The streets of Honolulu are hard and smooth, and a
carriage rolls along without a stone to jar it. Carriages
are rather rare articles of luxury here, and even these
few have not a very modern aspect. The principle ve-

HORSES AND VEHICLES. 201

hides are little four wheeled waggons, about the size of
those which are usually appendages to a nursery at
home, in which, drawn by one or two kanakas, a lady
is seen riding in style through the streets, in going to
church or making a fashionable call. The horses upon
these islands, are imported from California, and riding
horseback is a favorite amusement with all classes.
There is a livery stable in one of the principal streets,
where are exhibited an array of fine horses that many
an equestrian might envy. The natives always gal-
lop off at a John Gilpin pace without any regard to
life or limb, either of themselves or of the poor animals
they are goading to death. The women ride in the
same style, though with a perfect indifference to side
saddles, in imitation of the Spanish ladies of the South
American coast.

CHAPTER XIV.

SANDWICH ISLANDS,

Valley of Nuanu-Taro— Poi— Natives at work — Aqatic feats
— An affecting incident — Native canoes — Commerce of the
Hawaiian Islands — Moving a house — Treatment of a luna-
tic— Native salutation — Chinese — Annoyances — Scorpions-
Centipedes.

The other day, I took a delightful walk in company
with a friend up the valley of Nuanu, which, ahout a
mile in width, opening in the rear of the town, extends
entirely across the island. It is delightfully verdant,
contrasting widely with the barren, sunburnt mountains
whose craggy precipices tower up on each side of it, into
the region of the clouds. A mountain streamlet de-
scending to the sea, is diverted into a thousand little
canals, which distribute its waters among the taro
patches through which we threaded our way. These
taro patches are small basins of a quadrilateral form,
prepared with great care, into which the waters are
directed to give sustenance to the taro, which requires
constant irrigation. The taro, is a bulbous root from
twelve to fifteen inches in circumference, of an oval
shape, having usually a purple tint, and puts forth several
stalks terminating in a broad, arrowheaded leaf like that of
the calla ethiopica. When raw, itsjuices are extremely acrid

VALLEY OF NUANU. 203

and pungent, as if nettles had been introduced into the
mouth ; but when cooked, it is of a highly nutricious
character, like that of the finest potato. With the
natives, it is a sine qua non, in a much higher degree
than the potato is to inhabitants of the Emerald Isle ;
and a man's right and title to his taro patch is defended
with the utmost determination. It is in fact, the only-
personal property of any value possessed by the ignobile
vulgus. In converting the taro into use, the root is
baked in the ground, until it becomes dry and mealy,
when it is macerated by a smooth stone, with an ad-
mixture of water, until it assumes the consistency of
bookbinder's paste, and is then called poi. It is now set
aside for twenty-four hours, when it becomes slightly
acidulous, and is then considered as having attained the
proper flavor. Then stretched out upon the ground, or
adopting some other easy posture, the native with a dried
fish in his left hand, prepares himself for his repast.
Inserting the forefinger of the right hand into the mess,,
he turns it round and round until a mass of sufficient
size adheres, when with the head thrown back,
and mouth open, he introduces the poi, with the
utmost dexterity and sleight of hand. A piece of fish
administered by the other hand succeeds, la rima poi,
" the poi finger," divested of its adhesive covering ; and
thus, these processes are kept up alternately until the
materials are exhausted. So extravagantly fond are the
natives of their fish and poi, that the most luxurious
feast could not present superior charms to their eyes.
Even the chiefs, after making a repast in the European
style, are regularly served with a dish of poi, without
which they would consider themselves as having fared
very poorly.

Farther up the valley, is me Pari of Nuanu, an

204 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

awful precipice in the mountains, celebrated in the
history of the islands, as the scene of the destruction of
the King of Oahu with his followers, who were hurled
down the abyss by the victorious army of Tamehameha
the Great upon his invasion of Oahu. Just back of the
town, is a mountain presenting a circular front, which
has been fancifully named the "Punch bowl," from a
peculiar aptitude possessed by English and Americans
for giving awkward names to geographical points. It is
terminated at the top in a spacious platform, down the
sides of which are numerous angular columns. Above,
a range of long iron guns, fourteen forty -two 'pounders,
which were stationed there at an immense labor, com-
mands the town and harbor, and the fortification might
be rendered impregnable.

In the valley, are one or two country seats belonging
to gentlemen residing in town. Towards one of these
we directed our steps, as fast as possible, against the
wind which was blowing almost a gale. It was one of
the pahau days, and we fell in with a numerous body
of kanakas or native men, engaged in erecting a wall
of adobies. The majority of them however, appeared
to have nothing to do but to vociferate one to another
while indulging themselves in a favorite and exceedingly
graceful posture, commonly called "squatting." This
is a common attitude with the natives when unemployed,
and I have seen long lines of them drawn up in the
shade, continuing in this posture for hours.

After spending a short time at the seat of a gentleman
of our acquaintance, in looking over some recent num-
bers of " the Knickerbocker," and of " the New York
Mirror," we turned our steps towards a beautiful moun-
tain streamlet, the waters of which tumbling down in
many a lovely cascade through a narrow pass between

AaUATIC FEATS. 205

high hills, were received into a circular basin eight or
ten yards in diameter, upon one side of which, a rock
rose abruptly to the height of twenty or thirty feet.
Here we had an interesting exhibition of the aquatic
performances of some of the native boys. Several of
them, not more than eight or nine years of age, ascended
to the top of this rock, and Sam Patch like, leaped forward
into the basin below, from which they soon emerged,
and with loud shouts ran up to the top of the rock to
resume their sport.

The natives of these islands are almost amphibious,
and they are to be seen playing for hours in the surf,
apparently unconscious of any danger, although the
attempt would be appalling to a foreigner. A feat in
swimming, which was performed a few days since off
these islands, would be received as incredible at home,
although it can be proved on the very best of evidence,
and is not doubted in the least at Honolulu. The day
we arrived at Honolulu, intelligence had been received
of a terrible catastrophe which occurred a day or two
previous. A little schooner, the " Keola," of Honolulu,
under the charge of natives, on her passage from one
island to another of the group, with thirty or forty pas-
sengers, foundered at a distance of twenty-Jive miles
from land, and out of this crowded vessel, but four ever
returned to tell the tale of their disaster ; and these —
incredible as it may seem — reached the shore by swim-
ming ! The particulars of this melancholy event are
more fully mentioned in a letter from a missionary at
Lahaina to the Rev. Mr. Thurston, and exhibit an
affecting picture of conjugal tenderness and love, which
shone pure and bright amid the gloomy horrors of that
awful scene. The letter is in substance as follows —

18

206 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Lahaina, May 21, 1840.
Dear brother Thurston,

As the Kinau (" Kenow") is soon expected to sail
for Oahu (« Wawhoo"), I will write a few words. You
have heard, I presume of the loss of the " Keola," as the
report reached here just as Brother Green was embark-
ing for Oahu. The same day that he sailed, the persons
who escaped, arrived here and told us the sad particu-
lars. You will be afflicted to learn that Mauae (Mow-
ah-ay) is among those who were lost. As his wife is
among the saved, and as they both swam about twenty-
Jive miles together before he expired, we have a full ac-
count of him to the last.

The following is a sketch of that melancholy occur-
rence. The " Keola" left Lahaina for Kawaihae (To-
ay-hi, a settlement upon Hawaii) on Saturday evening,
May 9th, in a leaky condition as was apparent to all on
board. The next day the wind was strong, and, as we
hear, the stone ballast rolled over to leeward. It was
restored to its proper place, when two barrels of molas-
ses and a cask of water, not well secured, were precipi-
tated to leeward, in the rolling of the vessel. This was
the immediate cause of the disaster, although this would
not have been sufficient, were it not that the " Keola"
had been aground Jive times .since she was last examin-
ed, and of course was entirely unfit for sea without re-
pairing. The forward part of the schooner was engulf-
ed so suddenly, that some who were in the hold were
never extricated, but were carried down in the sinking
vessel.

The natives plunged into the ocean upon seeing that
the loss of the vessel was inevitable, while Mauae, who
had conducted prayers early in the morning, and engaged
in religious worship with the people during the fore-

AFFECTING INCIDENT. 207

noon, though contending with the ocean waves, called
the natives around him, and implored help from on high.
Having asked the assistance of the Almighty at this
awful moment, they looked about to see what they
could do to aid themselves. A current was setting to
the north, so that none thought of swimming for Hawaii.
Mauae and his wife, providing themselves with buckets,
which were covered over to exclude the water, com-
menced swimming towards Kahoolawe, the nearest land
to the northward of them. They were accompanied by
three young men, who disappeared, one after the other,
either by drowning or going in different directions. Sev-
eral of their fellow passengers were in sight on the Sab-
bath, but during the night ,they were lost sight of, and
Mauae and his wife were left to pursue their watery way
alone. On Monday morning, Kaluawahinui's bucket
came to pieces, and she swam without anything until
afternoon, when Mauae became too much exhausted to
proceed, and they stopped, while he was lomi-lomVd* by
his affectionate wife, which revived him so much that he
was enabled to renew his exertions.

They toiled on for some time longer until Kahoolawe
was in full view before them, but Mauae began to sink
under his extreme exhaustion. Kaluawahinui, then took
his bucket, which was still uninjured, and with a heroic
devotion that has never been surpassed, told him to grasp
her long hair, which was trailing on the surface of the wa-
ter, and in this way she assisted him for some distance. But
his hand soon relaxed its grasp, and all her efforts to rouse

* The process of lomi-lomi, consists in rubbing and kneading with the
hands the person who subjects himself to the operation, and it is extremely
reviving when one is fatigued. Upon an occasion, when exhausted with vio-
lent exercise, I experienced its refreshing effects, and pronounce the lomi-
lomi of the Hawaiian Islands unparalleled in its effects in restoring vigor to
the frame, when wearied,

208 THE.SANDWICH ISLANDS.

him to exertion were vain. She told him he must pray-
to God for strength to assist him. He commenced, but
could only utter a few sentences, and she then clasped
his arms around her neck — held them with one hand,
and under this unequal burden toiled on towards the
shore. When yet within some distance of the shore,
perceiving that Mauae was entirely dead, she left him
and reached the Island about sunset, after being in the
water over thirty hours. Faint with exhaustion, at a
distance from any aid, and almost blinded by her long
continuance in the sea, she wandered about in search of
food for the three following days ; but in vain, and she
must have perished miserably, were it not for the water
she found standing in crevices of the rocks. On Friday
morning, she found a number of water-melons, which
relieved her sufferings ; soon after which, she was dis-
covered by some fishermen and conducted to their village,
whence she was brought to Lahaina.

The canoes of the natives are little narrow structures,
provided with an outrigger — two light sticks secured
upon the gunnel of the canoe, and projecting from six
to ten feet, where they are crossed by another stick — an
arrangement which prevents their upsetting. In such
frail structures, these daring navigators venture many
miles out to sea, now paddling swiftly over the waves or
stopping every few minutes to bail out the water which
dashes into their humble craft. Whenever they set sail,
they endeavor, if possible, to have the outrigger to wind-
ward, so that by extending themselves upon it outside of
the canoe, they may carry sail in safety. If the outrig-
ger breaks, the canoe becomes unmanageable, and many
instances have occurred of disastrous consequences re-
sulting from this accident. I have seen none of the
large war canoes of foftier times, and the largest that

COMMERCE. 209

have come under my notice would not hold more than
fifteen or twenty men. I

A few years ago, there were several vessels belonging to
the Hawaiian Government, manned by natives. Of
these, the larger were wrecked or sold, and now there
are only one or two schooners owned by the king or
the chiefs. The king formerly owned a fine barque
called the " Don Quixote," now lying in the harbor.
She was under the charge of a former sailing master of
the American Navy, and was conducted in man of
war style, carrying an armament of light guns. On
account of the expense of keeping her in order, she was
sold to Pierce and Brewer, merchants at Honolulu. The
port of Honolulu is visited by almost all vessels fre-
quenting the north Pacific, and in the spring and fall
seasons, great numbers of whale ships, principally
American, touch for recruits, which are supplied in
abundance and of every variety.

The value of goods imported into the Hawaiian
Islands for the past year, probably exceeds three hun-
dred and fifty thousand dollars. These imports consisted
of cotton cloths, prints, chintz, hardware, copper, cordage,
canvass, naval stores, flour, bread, wines and spirits,
furniture, soap, iron, paint &c, all which were from the
United States. From Mexico, the imports were princi-
pally specie and bullion. From California were re-
ceived sea otter skins, land furs, bullock hides, soap.
Nankeens, blue cottons, teas, silks &c., were brought
from China. From Tahiti and the southern islands
were received turtle shell, oil, pearl, and pearl shell,
sugar, &c. From the north west coast and Colombia
River, the imports were lumber of various kinds, spars
and salmon. From England, the imports were broad-
cloths and other goods similar to those received from the

18*

210 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

United States. From Manilla, the manufactures of the
United States, England and China were received, togeth-
er with cigars, hats, cordage &c.

The exports of native produce during this time, have
amounted to not far from eighty thousand dollars. These
consisted of sandal wood, bullock hides, salt, goat skins,
arrow root, provisions of various kinds, ku-kui oil (a
paint oil made from the candle nut,) sugar, molasses, and
leaf tobacco.

There are seven vessels owned at Honolulu by citi-
zens of the United States — one barque, two brigs and
four schooners ; and one ship, one barque and one brig
belonging to citizens of England. The commercial
statistics of these islands show, that nearly one half of
the imports into the Hawaiian Islands, were from the
United States ; and that the arrivals of American ships
were more than double in number those from all other
foreign countries. By far the greater proportion of the
foreign residents are Americans, and the American
interests are decidedly predominant throughout the
Hawaiian Islands.

The removal of a frame building through one of the
streets of Honolulu was an interesting scene to me, from
the novel mode in which it was conducted. The di-
mensions of the building were, I should judge, twenty
by twenty five feet. Across the lower timbers, strong
poles were firmly lashed, and in the interstices between
them, a dense throng of kanakas were crowded together.
After a scene of loud vociferation from those within the
building and the multitude assembled without, accompa-
nied with the most eloquent gesticulations, three sono-
rous cheers were given, and the building was lifted up
upon the shoulders of those underneath, and carried
steadily forward some distance before it was set down.

TREATMENT OF A LUNATIC. 211

The surrounding natives were all* enthusiasm, breaking
forth into loud and expressive exclamations of wonder
and delight, as the towering pile was seen moving along
with a complicated machinery of legs and feet plying
underneath. It is indeed a rare thing to see a house
taking a walk. The enterprise was attended with no
small degree of danger, for if one of the party had
stumbled down, serious consequences would have
resulted ; or the building, when elevated upon the
shoulders of the kanakas, might have fallen from its
unstable position and crushed numbers of the crowd.

While taking a walk through one of the most public
places, my attention was arrested by a crowd of natives
following with loud cries, a poor, forlorn boy, who
wandered about bewildered by the din of the vociferous
multitude that pressed upon him. Once or twice, he
sat down upon the ground, but the throng compelled
him to remove, and endeavor to escape from their vexa-
tious clamors. As I stood wondering at the cause of the
great delight manifested in torturing a creature appa-
rently so harmless, a woman advanced to meet him, and
touched noses with him as a token of recognition ; then
clasping him in her arms, and sending forth a piteous
cry, in which she was joined by the boy, she extricated
him from the crowd and conducted him into an adjoining
hut. Here they were received by a number of natives,
who united in the lamentation, and continued it without
cessation as long as I was within hearing. The boy, it
appears, was deranged, which the natives attributed to
some superstitious cause, and considered him as a legiti-
mate subject for annoyance, seeming to take delight in
the bewilderment and terrified actions of the poor lunatic.
There seems to be a strong propensity in human nature
to ridicule and annoy the unfortunate. Nor is it con-

212 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

fined to a semibarbafous people ; for even in our own
country, it is no rare sight, to see a crowd of noisy boys
following after some poor, decrepid creature, assailing
him with abusive language, or with missiles of various
kinds, which his infirmities will not allow him to es-
cape. We reprobate vices which we readily discover in
others, but of whose existence among ourselves under a
modified form, we are insensible.

It is customary with the natives, whenever any one
dies, for the relatives of the deceased to utter loud cries
and wails incessantly, for several days in succession. In
their notes of wo, the word auwe (" oway,") is uttered,
with a protraction of the last syllable for a long time,
accompanied with numerous doleful demisemiquavers.
To wake up at dead of night, and listen to the solemn
" au-e-e-e-e" rising upon the stillness of that hour, is
dismal indeed. When one of the royal family dies, the
whole people burst forth into lamentations ; and as these
cadences of wo, from every village swell upon the
breeze, the effect is said to be almost overpowering.
When friends meet after a long separation, they touch
noses, and each party commences a low wail to testify
his joy on the occasion. We also exhibit the same
incongruities; for tears, which are the emblems of
sorrow with us, are also the overflowings of affectionate

joy.

Among the foreigners resident at Honolulu, are several
Chinese, the singularity of whose costume cannot fail of
attracting one's attention. It consists of a large frock
with ample sleeves, reaching down about midway
between the waist and the knee. For the lower dress,
they wear a pair of pantaloons made very full, and these
together with peaked shoes having thick, wooden soles,
complete their costume. Their black hair is braided in

CHINESE. 213

a tail, a yard long, which usually hangs down the back
and vibrates from side to side, like a pendulum, as they
walk through the streets ; a loss of these tails, which
many of them coil up around their heads, would be
regarded as a great disgrace. The color of these Chinese
is more sallow than that of Europeans ; their noses are
rather flat, the eyes small, and the expression of the fea-
tures dull, unlike the intelligence we expect to see indi-
cated by the physiognomy of so ingenious a people.
There is a store here, under the direction of Chinamen,
which is stocked with every variety of goods, partly
Chinese and partly American. Chinese goods, such as
silks, nankeens, &c, can be purchased here in any quan-
tity, and at a less price than is expended for corresponding
articles in the United States. Almost all other articles are
sold at a hundred per cent, on the original cost, and some
even at a much higher rate than this. A Bakery has
been established here by " Sam & Mow," bakers from
Canton, where bread, cakes, and pies, are manufactured
in every variety, and of excellent quality. Their adver-
tisement contains a classical allusion in the last line,
which will not be readily perceived, except by those who
are aware of the arrogance of the Celestial Empire.

" Good people all come near and buy
Of Sam and Mow good cake and pie,
Bread hard or soft, for land or sea,
' Celestial' made ; come buy of we."

The three most unpleasant things about Honolulu, are
the dust, the musketoes, and the fleas. The first is pe-
culiar to this Island, which, except in the valleys, is
sterile, and the soil, a light clay, is easily converted into
dust, and raised in clouds by the strong winds. The
musketoes are foreign importations, I am told, having

214 THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

been brought by some ship within a few years ; they
are now common to all the Islands, and have become so
numerous as to be a very great annoyance to all classes.
To escape being devoured by them we are all obliged to
sleep under canopies of gauze. As to the fleas, there is
no escaping their tortures. They lie secreted in the
matting of the floor, whence they sally forth to attack
the feet and ankles of the occupant of the room, with malig-
nant virulence, leaving dark, purple spots wherever they
introduce their venom. They accompany one in his calls
upon his friends, and while he is endeavoring to make him-
self agreeable, they run around inside of his boot and set
every nerve in his system on the qui vive. A gentle-
man, the other day, told me, that he had frequently been
deterred from making calls upon his friends by their an-
noyance. I have myself been terribly bitten, and it ag-
gravates the evil to be denied the sweets of revenge, for
they are so nimble that it is almost impossible to catch
them.

* There are also at Honolulu numbers of scorpions and
centipedes^ which have been introduced from the Spanish
main. The other day, in taking a walk, I carried my
umbrella with me, as the clouds gave some indications
of rain. Upon returning, after an absence of an hour or
more, I raised the umbrella during a shower which was
passing over, and walked with it over me for some dis-
tance, when, upon accidentally casting my eyes upwards,
I was somewhat startled at seeing a scorpion crawling
around very leisurely in the upper part of it, especially
when I reflected that the umbrella had been carried
loosely, and that my hand had slipped down the handle
inside of it several times during my walk. He was not
disturbed, however, until I reached my room, when 1
destroyed his ability to do mischief by putting him into

SCORPIONS — CENTIPEDES. 215

a phial of alcohol, for preservation. The scorpion is of
a grey color, and usually from three to four inches in
length. He moves upon four pairs of legs, and
has a pair of claws upon each side of his head for seizing
his prey. His body is of an oval form about one third
the entire length of the animal ; and extending from
it, is his formidable tail consisting of numerous joints,
of so flexible mechanism, that the tail can be instanta-
neously directed to any part of the animal. Upon the
end of the tail is the sting, an extremely sharp hook,
which is darted into the offender with great rapidity.
These reptiles have frequently been seen in the room I
occupy, and I never put on an article of dress, without
first examining it. The long voyage from the coast, is
said to have impaired the virulence of their poison in
some degree, so that a sting from one of them is not at-
tended with fatal consequences, although it is extremely
painful. ,

The centipede, is a long worm, about three inches in
length, usually of a dark brown or black color, of a
somewhat lighter shade on the lower side of his body.
When provoked, he bites with a pair of scissor-like jaws,
and injects the poison with his tail. The centipede, as
his name implies, is provided with a vast number of feet,
numbering in a specimen which I examined, not far from
fifty. The poison of the centipede is by no means as viru-
lent as that of the scorpion. I have seen one or two
persons that had just been stung by this reptile ; but the
pain they suffered was not much greater than one would
experience from the sting of a hornet.

CHAPTER XVIII.

EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

Brig " Clementine" — Romish priests — Accommodations on board
— Kailua — Governor Adams — Style of his house — Cavern —
Natives playing in the surf — Native church — Manufactory
— Lodgings — Escape from shipwreck — Shark catchers — To-
wauiae — Walk to Waimea — Spanish bullock hunters — Mr.
Lyons, missionary — Bullock hunting — Fate of Mr. Douglas —
Spanish saddle — Return to Honolulu.

Saturday, July 4. The great day of our National
Independence has been commemorated at Honolulu
with all the noise, and with much of the spirit, with
which it is observed in our own land. At sunrise, the ap-
propriate number of guns were fired from the fort, at the
expense of the American foreign residents. All parties,
American, English and French, all lovers of good din-
ners, embraced this opportunity for a holiday, and for
amusements of every kind. A large party of most of the
American residents met together in one of the beautiful
valleys of this Island, to commemorate the illustrious
deeds of their ancestors, and drink brandy and cham-
pagne, and to do other patriotic things. The English
residents had a dinner by themselves, rejoicing, no doubt,
in an event which gave them so plausible a pretext for
gratifying their national propensity for good dinners.
The natives too, participated in the rejoicings of the day,
and followed, in crowds, a cracked clarionet and two or
three drums with as much enthusiasm, as one of our own

BRIG "CLEMENTINE." 217

democratic throngs could in our country. My fourth of
July dinner was enjoyed in a more quiet manner, in
company with the United States Consul and two or three
of the missionaries residing here ; and we spent the time
far more pleasantly, and certainly more rationally, than
if we were participating in the boisterous festivities of
the other residents.

This morning I arrived at Honolulu after an absence
of about two weeks in an excursion to the island
of Hawaii. Our party, consisting of two gentlemen
of distinguished attainments, and myself, embarked
in the "Clementine," a vessel owned here, on Tues-
day morning, June 23d, where we were joined by a Mr.
Grimes, a resident of Honolulu. The "Clementine,"
though considered much the best of the small vessels
sailing out of this port, is one of those things of which
it maybe said most decidedly that " familiarity breeds
contempt." She is one of those vessels rigged in de-
fiance of all symmetry, and very appropriately termed
" Morferdites " (Hermaphrodites) by seamen. To do her
justice, however, she is a pretty good sailer, and we soon
ran out of the harbor into the open ocean, where as she
rolled and tumbled about, one or two of the passengers
were unable to restrain their rising emotions ; among
whom I subscribe myself, not without some reluctance,
however. There were two Roman Catholic priests on
board, going to propagate their faith in the wild regions
of Hawaii. One of these was an Irishman, educated in
France, and fully versed in all the wily arguments and
sophisms of that church. Many a warm argument en-
sued between him and the other passengers, and it was
very amusing to hear how satisfactory (to himself) he
resolved some of the absurd tenets of the Romish church.
We pressed him very closely upon the doctrine of the Pope's

19

218 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

infallibility. " No good Catholic," said he, U is obliged to
believe that the pope is infallible in all things. In the com-
mon affairs of this life, in his private relations, he may err
in judgment, like all other men ; but when he stands forth
as the head of the church, holding the keys of St. Peter,
to expound the doctrines of the church, then he is infal-
lible." That is, in trivial matters, the pope may be
subject to the frailty of all Adam's race, but in those
solemn questions that involve the destiny of the soul, the
most awful that ever agitate the human mind, he is
endowed with infallibility! By what process he had
arrived at this definite view of the powers of the papal
pontiff, we were unable to discover.

Our cabin boasted of five or six state-rooms, the berths
of which were fortunately unprovided with beds. I say
fortunately, as prudence would have prevented our
making use of them, for reasons that may suggest them-
selves to the reader, and we stretched ourselves upon
the bare boards with no very cheering anticipations of
repose. These rooms had been whitewashed ; so that
when a man exhibited himself in the morning, he looked
as if he had been sleeping in a flour barrel ! The most
forward state rooms were separated from the hold by a
frail partition of matting, which gaping open in several
places, emitted an odor that savored very much of the
stable, which is doubtless to be attributed to a horse
confined there, whose sonorous nostrils every few mo-
ments, gave indubitable indications of his close proximity.

After a passage of more than three days, during which
we barely escaped being roasted by the intense heat of the
sun, in a calm off the island Ranai, we cast anchor 01T Kai-
lua, a little town upon the western coast of Hawaii. Here
is the residence of Kuakini, or John Adams, Governor of
Hawaii, one of the highest chiefs of the nation, and distin-

GOVERNOR ADAMS. 219

guishedin the history of these islands for the favor he has
always manifested towards the missionaries. Kailua is
built close upon the beach, and has a very pretty appear-
ance with its cocoa-nut trees waving over the Governor's
house, and a few boa trees scattered here and there.
From the water's edge, the ground rises with a rapid
ascent until it is lost to the eye in the clouds.

Upon landing, we were received by Dr. Andrews,
Physician to the missionary station at Kailua, who
conducted us to his house, where we were cordially
welcomed by Mrs. Andrews, and entertained with hospi-
tality during our visit. After supper, we called upon
Governor Adams. His house, which is one of the finest
upon the islands, is situated close upon the beach, so
that the rear of the yard is washed by the ever rolling
billows of the ocean. A beautiful green sward, enclosed
by a stone wall, presents a refreshing sight to the eye,
while a grove of tall, slender cocoa-nut trees with their
pendent branches rising from it, displays an elevation of
taste such as we rarely expect to find around native
residences. The house is a large two story stone build-
ing, with a small portico projecting beyond the door,
directly above which, in the second story, are three
small gothic windows ; the other windows are like those
that are fitted in our plain dwelling houses at home,
which the house is itself intended to resemble. The
roof is shingled and painted red, displaying upon the
extremities of the ridge pole, two small chimnies placed
there for ornament. In the rear of the house and ad-
joining it, is a thatched shed, where the Governor is to
be found on most occasions, and there are several houses
upon the premises built in native style, but much larger
than those we ordinarily see.

His Excellency we found seated in his favorite place.

220 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

He received us very cordially, making several enquiries
of each one of us in the English language, and laughing
very heartily every few minutes. Kuakini is the most
corpulent man 1 ever saw, and in this respect, indicates
that he is to be classed among the chiefs of the old
school, with whom obesity was always indicative of
high rank. On one account, this is an admirable method
of exhibiting the distinguished in a nation, as the insig-
nia of their exalted rank are inseparable from their
persons. As to the Governor, his walk would remind
one of Homer's " earth- quaking" heroes, if he had the
power of locomotion, but unfortunately, he has for a long
time been laboring under a weakness of the kness which
forbids bis moving about except with the aid of crutches.
No wonder that his nether limbs should have found
themselves incompetent to sustain so immense a structure.
The expression of his features is good humored, though
I am told, that his humor is rather capricious. Those
who are acquainted with him, are very politic in their
approaches to him for any favors. When they see him
winking his eyes with great rapidity and frequency, and
laughing heartily at everything that is said, they know
that nothing will be refused them ; but when he shrugs
up his shoulders and draws down his eyebrows, they
are fully convinced that an application for any favors
would be useless.

Upon the Governor's invitation, we examined the
various rooms of his house. The main door opens into
a large hall upon each side of which are spacious rooms
finished off in good style. From the hall you ascend by
a flight of steps defended by a balustrade into the second
story, which is also finished off in the same manner
The doors and the other wood work are made of koa
wood, which unites the elegance of the curled maple and

221

the black walnut. In the hall is a large centre table,
which is decidedly the most beautiful article of the kind
I ever saw. It is veneered with ko wood arranged in
sectors of a circle, a variety resembling rose wood, but
more beautiful and susceptible of a higher polish. From
the centre of the table upon each of these sectors, the
wood is ingeniously arranged in the radii of a circle, two
feet in diameter, perhaps, formed of the knots of the tree
of equal size, and very symmetrical. This table, together
with that belonging to the king, which is said to be
somewhat inferior to the one I have described, are the
only specimens of the kind upon the island. They were
made by a German carpenter at Honolulu, a very skilful
artizan in all kinds of cabinet work. We were very
profuse in our compliments, with which the Governor
appeared to be highly gratified, and manifested his
pleasure by laughing very loudly at every exclamation
we uttered. Our principal object in visiting his Excel-
lency, was to obtain his assistance on our excursion to
the volcano. His love of money refused to do homage
to a scientific expedition, and in talking over our proposed
route, he was so liberal as to offer to forward us in a
canoe to a place thirty or forty miles distant, for the
slight consideration of twenty-jive dollars, whereas we
knew that any of the natives might easily have been
engaged for eight or ten dollars.

The next day we visited a cavern, the mouth of which
opened close by the house of Mr. Thurston, the mission-
ary of this station. The entrance is very low, so that
you are obliged to proceed in a stooping posture for some
distance, until you arrive in a spacious chamber, which
also communicates with several in succession, until the
cavern terminates in a pool of limpid water, so clear
that some of the party walked into it without being

19*

222 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

aware of its proximity. We explored the cavern by the
blaze of torches made out of the ku-kui, or candle nut, |
strung upon slender twigs. The height of the loftiest
chamber was about twenty-five feet, and its breadth ten feet,
perhaps, and the entire length of the cavern about one
thousand three hundred feet. Upon the rocks was a soft
white incrustation in many places, looking very much
like lime which has been violently acted upon by fire.
The rocks overhead, seemed at some former time, to
have been in a state of fusion, for the surface of thernwas
very uneven, owing to the stalactitical form assumed by
the molten material. We all dipped ourselves into the
pool at the extremity of the cavern. The water was
very cool, and was somewhat saline to the taste, which
taken in connection with the fact that it rises and falls
with the tide, proves that it has some communication
with the sea. Upon emerging from the cavern, we
walked along in the direction it pursued under ground,
until at a distance from the mouth of the cavern where
we supposed it to terminate, we came across a circular
excavation, five or six feet in diameter, and ten or fifteen
feet deep, which was to be continued until a passage was
made into the chamber containing the pool of water
referred to above. This labor was in progress of execu-
tion at the command of Governor Kuakini, to give
him an opportunity of visiting this cavern, an object of
interest to all strangers, but which his obesity had for-
bidden his having access to through the ordinary passage.
After witnessing this striking instance of the zeal of
Governor Kuakini for scientific objects, I took a stroll
down to the sea shore, where a. party of natives were play-
ing in the surf, which was thundering upon the beach.
Each of them had a surf board, a smooth, flat board
from six to eight feet long, by twelve to fifteen inches

«

THE CHURCH. 223

broad. Upon these, they plunged forward into the surf,
diving under a roller as it broke in foam over them, until
they arrived where the rollers were formed, a quarter of
a mile from shore perhaps, when watching a favorable
opportunity, they rose upon some huge breaker, and
balancing themselves, either by kneeling upon their
boards or extending themselves full length, they dashed
impetuously towards the shore, guiding themselves with
admirable skill and apparent unconsciousness of danger,
in their lightning-like courses, while the bursting combers
broke upon each side of them, with a deafening noise.
In this way, they amuse themselves hour after hour, in
sports which have too terrific an aspect for a foreigner to
attempt, but which are admirably adapted to the almost
amphibious character of the natives.

Towards evening, Dr. Andrews gave us an invitation
to accompany him to the church — which is one of the
best native places of worship on the islands, and its
excellence is to be attributed to the liberality of Governor
Adams. It is built of dark grey compact lava, with a
modest little cupola rising above its shingled roof, in
which there is a bell to summon the people to worship
upon proper occasions. A row of glass windows above
and below, gives to the building an appearance which
would not be discreditable to many of our beautiful
villages in New England. A congregation of two or
three thousand assemble here for worship, and in addition
to the benches in the body of the church, there are
accommodations provided in a large gallery extending
around on the sides of the building, and supported by
slender columns painted blue. The pulpit is constructed
of elegant koa wood, as also the pannelling of the gallery.
At the completion of this place of worship, I have been
told, Governor Kuakini gave imperative commands that

224 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

at the expiration of a month, no woman should be
admitted inside of the church who did not make her
appearance in a neat gown, with a decent bonnet upon
her head. His mandate was very generally complied
with, I believe, as the fair sex have never been known
to be dilatory in adopting the latest fashions.

From the church, we directed our steps to the cotton
manufactory belonging to the Governor. The cotton
plant thrives, with but little or no trouble, upon all these
islands. A plain grass house, forty or fifty feet long,
overshadowed by the cocoa-nut tree and the pandanus
constitute the manufactory. No cotton gin has as
yet made its appearance in the Hawaiian Islands, and the
seeds are extricated from the cotton by the tedious
process of picking them out by hand. The wheels
and looms are of native workmanship, and the products
of the manufactory were of a superior quality. I say,
were, for the manufactory is not now in operation, and
the place gives but very little evidence of the purpose to
which it was applied, except one or two knots of yarn
hanging up on a post, hanks of cotton scattered here and
there, one or two wheels and a loom or two. The
discontinuance of the manufactory, is to last, I was told,
until some machinery which the Governor has ordered,
arrives from the United States. One or two specimens
of its performance while in operation, were exhibited to
us ; they were similar to the coarse, chequered fabrics
that are issued from our manufactories at home. After
supper, we made preparations for returning to the brig.
The plan we had at first adopted, was to go around the
south-western part of the island in a canoe, and disem-
bark upon the coast as near as possible to the volcano.
This route would be the most eligible, were it perfectly
safe; but the navigation around the southern point of

K A I L U A . 225

the island in so frail a structure, would have been a very
hazardous enterprise.

I have not yet mentioned the manner in which we
passed the night at Kailua. Mrs. Thurston very kindly
proffered the hospitality of her house to us for the night.
Grimes and I, accordingly, accepted her invitation, and
made our way thither during the evening, over the
sharp fragments of lava that strewed the path to her
house. We were ushered into a room on the south or
west side of the house, which had been closed up tight
during the absence of the family at Honolulu, that is, for
more than a month. From the state of the atmosphere
in the room, one would have supposed that the chamber
had not been aired since the house was built ; and from
its situation on the south side of the house, exposed to
the intense glare of the sun from day to day, the heat
was intolerable, as we had ample proof, for there we
were, now on the bed and now on the floor, burning and
rolling and tossing about all night long, Grimes' counte-
nance looking as if he had just had a dive into the
Stygean Lake, which supposition, the streams of perspi-
ration running down his red hot phiz, amply justified.
As to myself, my experience was such, that I consoled
myself afterwards with the reflection, that if I had not
seen the lurid rolling fires of the crater of Mauna Roa, I
had undoubtedly been in their immediate vicinity. No
reflections upon Mrs. Thurston's hospitality ; she did all
she could to reduce the temperature of the room, but to
no purpose. Grimes and I however, arrived at this
decided conclusion, that exotics do not always thrive the
best in hot beds. About eight o'clock, P. M., we were
again upon the deck of the Clementine, and Mrs. Thurs-
ton and her son were still our" compagnions du voyage.
Mrs. T., had taken the trip to Hawaii, for the removal

226 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

of all her furniture and household utensils to Honolulu,
in the prospect of a voyage with her family to the
United States. Her departure from a people to whom
she had been ardently devoted for so many years, was a
very affecting scene. Upon her first arrival at Kailua,
the poor natives followed her in crowds wherever she
went, displaying the strongest affection for her, and the
most sincere grief at her removal from them. They
eagerly assisted in conveying her effects down to the
shore, and when she was lifted into the boat to go on
board the brig, many of them waded into the water to
testify their affection, and a wail of sorrow followed the
boat until she was along side the brig.

After waiting for some time for the land breeze to
come off, it was thought prudent to get under way with
the light sea breeze that still lingered, and endeavor to
beat out of the recess in the land where we lay at anchor,
as a bank of black clouds was piling up in threatening
array to seaward of us. The anchorage at Kailua is not
good, and but a moderate blow might have dashed us
ashore among the breakers. All sail was made upon the
brig, and with her royal out, we shot forward under the
now freshening breeze, towards a ledge of frowning
rocks, that run out into the sea on the right hand side of
the bay. One of the natives, well acquainted with the
place was stationed in the bow — "starboard your helm —
luff all you can," shouted our pilot, as our little craft
was moving rapidly towards the surf-beaten rocks, and
was now close up with them. "Starboard— starboard a
leetle !" And starboard it was, until the sails were
shivering in the wind. " Must we go about ? tell us for

sake," demanded the captain in a voice tremulous

with excitement, as he cast an anxious eye towards the
angry clouds to windward of us, and then to the black

SHARK CATCHERS. 227

rocks close under our lee bow. There was a moment's
pause, and I grasped the rail and braced myself to await
the shock of our striking upon the rocks, which were
now frightfully near us — not more distant apparently,
than three or four rods, and we were beginning to feel
the heaving motion of the surf which seemed ready to
embrace us in its resistless folds. "Keady about,"
shouted our pilot. "Hard a lee," instantly responded
the captain, and the little craft wheeling around, after a
slight struggle with the rollers, made headway and ran
forward in the opposite direction. The danger was now
over for the most part, and I drew a long breath, thank-
ful for this my second narrow escape from shipwreck.
The clouds that appeared so threatening, expended
themselves in rain, and the night passed away without
any farther alarm.

One of the passengers had been a resident upon Hawaii
for a number of years, and being very communicative,
he gave me a variety of information respecting the former
customs of the people. The natives of these islands
subsist almost entirely upon poi and fish, which they
prefer to any kind of flesh. The capture of a shark, or
of any large fish, is regarded as a great achievement, and
is attended with great rejoicing. In former times, shark
catching was often accompanied with the most revolting
cruelty. The shark catchers were in the habit of way-
laying those who had unfortunately wandered out of the
reach of assistance, and despatching them secreted their
victims until putrefaction had commenced. Then pack-
ing away parts of the body in wicker work, when the
process of decomposition had sufficiently advanced, they
started forth in their canoes, with the baskets of corrup-
tion towing after them. The sharks soon followed the
scent, and became so enchanted with the taste of this

228 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

hellish t eparation,as to allow a noose to be slipped over
them w about any difficulty.

In the afternoon we came to anchor off Towaihae, a
small settlement of a few houses upon the beach, about
sixty miles to the northward of Kailua. The only
building of any importance, is the stone store belonging
to Mr. French of Honolulu, which is the depot of all
goods shipped from this part of the island, as well as for
goods destined for the interior. Immediately back of the
village, there is a constant rise of the land, and the lofty
summits of Manna Kea and of other misty peaks are
seen rising in gloomy grandeur at the distance of twenty
or thirty miles. The principal object that strikes the eye
is a high mound or ?norai, upon the left hand side of the
village, erected upon the first line of hills back of the
settlement. It was built by Tamehameha the Great, and
consists of a huge pile of stones arranged in a quadrilate-
ral form, measuring, I was told, one hundred and fifty
two feet in length, and sixty in breadth.* Upon the top
of it, overlooking the vast expanse of the ocean, the
priests, in the former days of idolatry, were accustomed
to immolate human victims to the gods of the sea.

The first thing we attended to, upon landing, was to
make immediate preparations for a walk to Waimea, a
settlement among the mountains about fifteen miles from
the coast. The impossibility of procuring any accom-
modations for the night obliged us to set off on the Sab-
bath, much against our wishes. A couple of natives
were engaged by my comrades to transport their bag-
gage, although it had been expressly told me that it was
to be left behind, and forwarded the next day. When I

* Ellis, in his " Polynesian R-esearches," gives much greater dimensions
to this pile than those I have ascribed to it. He makes the length two
hundred and twenty foui feet, and width one hundred feet.

WALK TO W A I M E A . 229

requested a delay of a few minutes, until a native could
be engaged by me, I was answered, by two of the party
setting off without me, which compelled me to seize one
or two necessary articles and hurry along after them. It
was most intolerably hot ; the sun was blazing down in
all his intensity, while scarcely a breath of wind mitiga-
ted his ardor. In addition to this, contrary to my
repeated suggestions, the party were so impatient to
proceed that they did not provide themselves with any
water, and were it not for a pine apple we had with us,
I should have suffered extremely from thirst. For the
first eight miles, the heat was very oppressive, and a
thick woolen jacket together with a heavy pea-jacket
strapped to my back, by no means contributed to my
comfort. About nine miles from Towaihae, a cold rain
came driving down from the mountains, and instantly
checked the perspiration that was flowing from me in
streams, so that before I had walked more than a mile
or two farther, I was seized with violent rheumatic
pains, and the rest of the journey was performed with
very great difficulty and pain. My companions treated
me with any thing but civility in my disabled state, and
pushed forward, not even looking behind to see how I
got along, until they were quite out of sight. I overtook
them on the bank of a mountain streamlet which was
swollen by the rain, just as two of the party had succeed-
ed in fording it higher up the stream. The other who
understood the native language perfectly, had made an
agreement with a native to take him across upon his
back, but when he was over on the other side he ran on
to come up with the other gentlemen, without stopping
a moment to consider that I stood in some need of his
services as interpreter, to assist me in getting across the
stream. After standing some time upon the bank at a

20

230 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

loss what to do, a kind hearted native, one of the baggage
carriers came along, and volunteered his assistance to
help me over. Grimes had the kindness to wait for me
until I came up, and his company encouraged me to
hurry forward with more rapidity in the rain and gloom ;
for it was now growing dark, and I had been revolving
in my mind how I should spend the night in the native
huts which were scattered along the road, as the severe
pain I experienced seemed to forbid any farther exertion.
About eight o'clock, we came up with a collection of
thatched houses, towards the principal one of which we
directed our steps, which was a store belonging to Mr.
French of Honolulu. Here a novel scene presented
itself to us. In front of the door, a bright fire was
blazing in a cavity in the earthern floor, displaying in
strong light the dark features of the natives congregated
around it in their grotesque attitudes. Immediately
back of these, a group of fine looking men, in a pecu-
liar costume, were leaning against the counter of the
store. Some of them were Spaniards from California,
and they were all attired in the poncho, an oblong
blanket of various brilliant colors, having a hole in the
middle through which the head is thrust. The panta-
loons are open from the knee downwards on the outside,
with a row of dashing gilt buttons along the outside
seam. A pair of boots armed with prodigiously long
spurs completed their costume. They were bullock
hunters, employed in capturing the wild bullocks that
roam the mountains, and had just returned from an
expedition of eight or ten days, in which they had been
very successful.

After a delicious cup of tea and some excellent beef
steaks, vve adjourned to our place for spending the night,
about three quarters of a mile distant. Grimes took it

RETURN TO HONOLULU. 231

upon himself to be the pilot, but after stumbling about
among the bogs, and being exposed to a cold wind and
rain for more than half an hour, we were obliged to return
and get a native for our guide. Our bed consisted of
layers of thick mats, upon which the usual bedding was
spread out. The beds of the natives are nothing more
than several large mats laid one upon the other, making
a slight elevation above the floor, as in the present
instance. The chiefs, not unfrequently, take fifteen or
twenty of these mats for a bed, the area of which is
sometimes ten or twelve feet square.

The next day, Mr. Lyons, missionary at Waimea,
called upon me and invited me to his house, a very
pretty frame building. Not far off is the church, a long
grass house situated in the midst of half a dozen native
houses. During our conversation, Mr. Lyons told me
that the population of Hawaii is not far from forty-five
thousand, of whom about twelve thousand are members
of the church. The number of churches upon all these
islands is not far from eighteen or nineteen. The num-
ber of persons admitted into the church since the estab-
lishment of the mission is about twenty-one thousand
three hundred. Of these there are about eighteen thou-
sand four hundred still alive, and in good standing.
During the year ending June eighteen hundred and
forty, there were four thousand one hundred and seventy
nine admitted into the church. There were two hun-
dred and thirty seven excommunicated during the year.
Of these, one hundred and thirty-six were restored,
leaving one hundred and one, who are still excluded.
It is to be supposed that a large proportion of those that
are at present excluded from communion will return
with penitence, and be restored to the fellowship of the
church. The standard of discipline is high, and persons

232

EXCURSION TO HAWAII

are excommunicated for acts which would hardly be
considered obnoxious to church discipline in our own
country. The natives of these islands as well as of
many of the Pacific Islands are very much addicted to
smoking tobacco. All of both sexes, carry pipes with
short stems, and a tinder box for kindling a fire at any
moment, which comes into requisition at almost every
hour of the day and night. Even at night they awake
from their slumbers, and kindling a spark in their
tobacco pipes, take three or four whiffs, which are blown
down through the nostrils, then put up their pipes and
consign themselves to sleep again. Some of the mis-
sionaries thinking this excessive use of tobacco to be
an immorality, take particular cognizance of it in ad-
mitting persons into their churches. The feather and
flower leis which are also obnoxious to some of the
missionaries, are brilliant garlands of gay feathers and
flowers, with which, many of the native women enrich
the head and neck, and are very tasteful and pretty or-
naments in my opinion, for which they ought to be com-
mended rather than censured.

Tuesday, June 29. This morning, the party started
for the volcano. They employed eight or ten natives to
transport their baggage and provisions, which consisted
of jerked beef, and poi prepared in the solid form.
They had a good deal of difficulty in procuring horses
but after a scene of noisy bargaining with the natives
and other vexations to which travellers are subject, they
started in grand style, the natives moving on in their
peculiar dog-trot, and the cavaliers bringing up the rear.
I was too far disabled, to think of accompanying them, and
it was a bitter disappointment to me to be obliged to
abandon an expedition, after having advanced so far,
which I had looked forward to with such high expectation.

BULLOCK HUNTING. 233

After the party had left, I accompanied Mr. French
on a walk to a place about two miles distant, where the
business of tanning is carried on under the direction of
Chinamen. The establishment is extensive, and the
leather exhibited to me was of very superior quality as
far as I was capable of judging. Besides a saddle
maker close by the tan works, Mr. French has a shoe-
maker and carpenter in his employ.

Our principal object in taking the walk was to witness
the marking of a lot of cattle, that had been driven down
from the mountains, not long since. Great numbers of
wild bullocks are caught in the mountains every year
by the hunters. The lasso, the principal instrument in
their capture, is made of braided thongs, upon one end
of which is a ring forming a slip noose, which is thrown
with astonishing precision around any part of the animal.
Even while at full gallop in pursuit, the hunter grasps
his lasso, and giving it two or three twirls around his
head with the right hand, throws it unerringly and
entangles his victim by the horns or limbs. And now,
be wary for thy life bold hunter ; for the savage animal
is maddened with terror. See, he turns upon hi-s pursuer,
with eye-balls glaring with fire and his frame quivering
with rage. But the well trained horse springs one side,
and braces himself, while the unwieldy animal plunges
forward, but is suddenly brought up by the lasso, and
falls with a heavy momentum on the ground. Again
he rises, and tears the ground with his hoofs, and loudly
roars; then doubly furious, comes down upon his pursu-
er, but is again avoided and again dashed upon the
ground. Exhausted by repeated shocks like these, his
fury is subdued and he allows himself to be secured to a
tame bullock, which soon removes all his ferocity.

The bullocks of the mountains were till within a year
20*

234 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

or two, very numerous and savage, so that travelling
among the mountains was attended with great danger.
For their capture, a mode frequently resorted to by the
hunters, was to dig deep pits, and cover them over with
underbrush and dirt. A very melancholy casualty
occurred three or four years since among the mountains.
A gentleman named Douglass, of distinguished attain-
ments as a naturalist, was engaged in a scientific expedi-
tion to the volcano. He had nearly accomplished the
objects of his excursion, when he met with an awful
fate. As he was leaving an encampment where he had
spent the night, he was particularly cautioned respecting
three bullock pits that lay along the path he was expect-
ing to take. He mistook the directions given him, it is
presumed, for the first that was seen of him afterwards,
was when he was discovered by some natives, in one of
the bullock pits under the feet of a savage bull, who
was trampling upon him and goring him in the most
terrrinc manner ! The bull was very soon killed, and the
mangled body of the unfortunate naturalist drawn out,
but life had long since become extinct.

The Spanish saddle is of very different construction
from the saddles of our country in general use, and to
myself, is far preferable. It rises very high before and
behind, rendering it much easier for the rider, especially
in ascending or descending hills. The pommel is sur-
mounted by a large flat knot, termed the " loggerhead,"
from which the lasso of the hunter depends. A pair of
large wooden stirrups with a broad piece of leather
before each, to protect the feet in traversing a region
where the bushes grow thickly together, are also pecu-
liarities of the Spanish saddle. Their horses are governed
with powerful bits, such as would be intolerable to our
horses, and are allowed free rein, which seemed very

PANISH SADDLE

235

strange to me who had always been accustomed to see
the equestrian exhausting the strength of his arms to
keep his horse from stumbling. With us, a pull upon
either rein teaches the horse which way we would have
him go, whereas with the Spanish horse, the reins are
gently pressed against that side. of the neck in the direc-
tion in which he is to turn. The bullocks to be marked
were driven into a pen towards which we directed our
steps. They were noble animals, and had been tamed
by tying them singly with tame cattle for a time. 1 had
here some slight exhibition of the skill with which the
lasso is thrown. One of the bullocks was selected from
the herd, and in an instant the lasso was firmly en-
tangled around his horns or legs, and he was thrown
down and pinioned. The burning brand was then ap-
plied, and after sundry bellowings and other indications
of disapprobation, the poor animal was released. There
were not far from forty bullocks marked on this occa-
sion, intended for the "Clementine," in her trip down to
Honolulu, fellow-passengers of your humble servant.
They are there put into pasture, to be fattened for
the supply of ships visiting Honolulu in the fall season.
About nine o'clock in the evening, 1 set off for my
lodgings with a young man who carried a lantern to
pilot me. A narrow foot-path leads off from the road
which conducts over a brook between Mr. French's
store, and the place where I lodged. Unfortunately, we
could not find this path, and before long we plunged
into the water up to our knees. The night was dark,
and a drizzling mist almost blinded us ; but after floun-
dering about for a long time, we made our way back to
the store, which we reached after much difficulty, almost
exhausted with our fruitless efforts. Waimea is about
3,000 feet in elevation above the sea, and is constantly

236 EXCURSION TO HAWAII.

swept by the mountain winds and rains. Although it is
nearly midsummer, yet the air is so cool that an overcoat
is not unacceptable at any time. On Thursday morning,
July 2d, I rode down to Towaihae in company with Mr.
French, and in the afternoon went on board the
" Clementine." The brig had upon deck forty head of
bullocks, ranged closely together, with their heads turned
inwards. They were tied down by the horns to a strong
framework of spars, so that there was no danger of their
getting loose. For more than four hours we were ex-
posed to the most intense heat of the declining sun,
without a breath of wind, but about eight o'clock in the
evening, as there were some indications of a breeze off
the land, we got under way and stood off under our
topsail. Suddenly we heard the momnkti, coming down
the mountains and murmuring over the waters, but we
anticipated its coming, and when it struck us, the top-
sail yard had been settled down snugly upon the cap,
and we drove before it without a sail being spread until
it expended itself in a few minutes. As we drew into
the channel between Hawaii and Ranai, which is about
forty miles wide, we were brought down to a close
reefed topsail and balance reef mainsail, with a heavy
sea running. All night long we thumped about, to the
suffering of the poor animals on deck, that were thrown
down every few minutes and were trodden upon by the
others until they could be relieved. With the violent
motion of the vessel, the creaking of the timbers, and
the noise made by the stamping of the cattle upon deck,
sleep was out of the question. Glad was I on Saturday
morning, July 4th, to find myself sitting quietly in my
room at Honolulu.

CHAPTER XIX.

SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Farewell to the north America — whaleship Catharine —
Objects of a consulate — Kauikeaouli, the king — Mission
families at honolulu.

My excursion to Hawaii dissolved my connection
with the " North America ;" for she sailed from Honolulu
on her cruize the same day that we left the harbor,
bound to Hawaii. I have therefore bidden adieu to the
good old ship upon whose staunch timbers I have been
borne so many thousands of miles ; and in taking fare-
well of my wave-tossed home, I seem to have severed
the last link that bound me to my native land. Farewell
good old ship ; thou hast weathered many a gale, and
carried me in safety over the swelling deep, and my
heart is drawn towards thy old timbers, in which all
that was to me of home and kindred has for so long a
time been centered. To Captain Richards and his offi-
cers, I am under great obligations for the kind and res-
pectful attention they have displayed towards me. Cap-
tain R., is a man I shall always remember with sin-
cere regard. To his excellence as a navigator and
sailor, he adds a suavity of manner and goodness of
character, which ensure him the esteem of all who

238 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

know him. The crew always manifested a regard for
me which I shall never forget, and which attached me
very strongly to them. In conclusion, 1 shall often call
to mind the time I spent aboard the " North America,"
as one of the happiest periods of my life.

Wednesday, July 8. By the invitation of Mr.
Brinsmade, the United States' Consul, I accompanied
him on board the whaleship " Catharine," of Nantucket,
lying at anchor off the harbor. The " Catharine"
touched here some time since, under the command of
Captain Brown, whose adventures at the Marquesas
Islands I have before mentioned. After a delay of a
day, or two, she proceeded on her cruise to the north-
west-ward of these islands, when the sudden death of
her commander, and the insubordination of her crew,

obliged her to return to Honolulu. Captain B , was

off in his boat, and in the act of lancing a whale tc
which he was " fast," he suddenly fell over backwards,
in an apoplectic fit, as was supposed, and instantly ex-
pired. The command of the ship now devolved upon
the first mate, according to law, who is invested with all
the authority of the former commander. Some of the
crew, however, imagined that the death of Captain Brown
absolved them from all obligation to the ship, and began
to exhibit signs of a mutinous disposition. The new
commander fore-seeing that any conduct of this kind
must neutralize all the profits of the voyage, ran for this
port to obtain the assistance of the American Consul.

Upon arriving on board the "Catharine," we were
invited into the cabin, where the crew-list was put into
the hands of the Consul, and the names of the disaffected
pointed out to him. The latter were then summoned
aft upon the quarter deck, when the Consul asked each
one of them in turn, " what reason he had for dissatis-

OBJECTS OF A CONSULATE. 239

faction ?" Some frivolous excuse was given, and they
looked blank enough, when the Consul in a voice of
authority, assured them that " they should not go in the
ship," and that " he knew how to take care of such cha-
racters." He then made a short address to the crew,
stating clearly to them what the laws of the United
States required in similar cases, respecting the power of
the officers, and the obedience of the crew — and con-
cluded by asking each one if he was satisfied with the
conditions laid down to them ; to which they all as-
sented. After the Consul had advised the officers of
the ship to be determined in the exercise of their
authority, and to rlog the first man who manifested the
least reluctance to obey orders, we left the ship having
the four mutineers in charge. They were discharged
according to law, after remaining under the orders of
the Governor in the fort for a day or two, where they
were kept upon a short allowance of poi, a most ad-
mirable method for reducing a feverish state of the
system.

The establishment of a Consulate in a foreign country
is provided, not only that we may have a representa-
tive of our country, invested with high honors, to
watch over its interests remote from home, but also that
our seamen who are disabled by sickness while at a
distance from home, may have a protector to take care
of them. When a seaman is discharged from a ship
and placed upon the Consul's hands, he is entitled,
according to law, to receive decent accommodations,
clothes, and medical assistance, and to be sent home as
soon as possible ; and all this too, at the expense of the
United States. The Captain of the ship upon discharg-
ing a man, pays over to the Consul, a sum not far from,
thirty dollars, I believe, and gives the man two months'

240 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

wages in advance, i. e. from thirty to sixty dollars,
according to his rank. Every ship also bearing the flag
of the United States, arriving at any foreign port, is
obliged to carry home a certain number of the men
under the care of the Consul, if he chooses to put them
on board, in the proportion of one man for every fifty
tons. These men are required to render all the assist-
ance they can in navigating the ship, the Captain of which
receives ten dollars, as a kind of retaining fee, intended
as the passage money for the Consul's men. The com-
pensation is ten dollars, without respect to time or dis-
tance, whether it take one month or eight to reach home,
whether for three hundred miles or for three thousand,
a law, very unequal in its application.

Tuesday, July 21. Yesterday afternoon, the town was
thrown into commotion, by the cry of " sail ho !" echoed
from mouth to mouth. The natives have become ac-
quainted with our mode of indicating that a ship is in
sight, and the alarm is echoed in every direction like a
cry of fire, whenever a vessel is seen coming in from
sea, and sometimes when there is none to be seen, from
a praiseworthy zeal to interrupt the monotony of the
town, and to rouse up the foreigners for a few minutes.
The sail in sight was made out to be a man-of-war, and
was pronounced to be one of the Exploring Expedition,
so long and anxiously expected, until, as she came to
anchor off the mouth of the harbor, the tri-colored en-
sign was run up to her mizen-peak. Then commenced
the firing of salutes, the etiquette always observed re-
quiring a discharge of twenty-one guns from the stran-
ger, as a compliment to the flag of the nation she visits,
which is instantly returned with an equal number of
guns from a fortification or national vessel.

By the invitation of Mr. Brinsmade, I accompanied

OBJECTS OP A CONSULATE. 241

him in a call of ceremony upon the commander of the
French Corvette " La Danaide." It is customary for all
the consuls to call upon the commander of a vessel of
war aboard his ship, out of respect to the flag under
which he sails, and any omission of this ceremony is
looked upon as a direct affront. The consul, dressed
in full uniform, and myself, took our seats in a small
boat upon the United States flag, and steered out of the
harbor. On our way, we passed one of the Corvette's
boats, with several officers on board, who perceiving the
Consul's uniform, saluted us by raising their hats and
bowing very politely. The shrill whistle of the boat-
swain announced our arrival alongside the " Danaide,"
and after scrambling up the side to the extreme danger
of crushing our nether limbs between the ship and the
boat, we mounted upon deck, the Consul preceding. We
were introduced to Capt. Rosamel by M. Dudoit, the
French Consul, who acted as our interpreter, a most for-
tunate thing for us, as otherwise our visit must have
been conducted in dumb show. The Corvette rolled
most unmercifully, and as we came alongside it looked
extremely hazardous to attempt going aboard at all.
When I set foot upon deck, I made a very awkward
figure of it, especially upon being introduced to one of
the officers, when I was rolled down to starboard, and
brought up against one of the guns. We were invited
into the cabin, when after a short palaver, interspersed
with compliments, claret wine, &c, we took our leave,
the Captain observing, among other things, that he could
never make wine keep aboard his ship for any great length
of time, which, however, judging from his appearance,
was not because age exhausted its virtues.

In leaving a ship of war, the highest in rank is
the last to enter the boat, and as I considered Mr.

31

242 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Brinsmade my superior, I preceded him over the
side of the ship. We now shot ahead of the ship
about twenty yards, when the consular salute of seven
guns was fired from the Corvette, which the Consul re-
ceived with hat doffed and resting upon his oars. Thus
ended the ceremony, which the commander of the ship
is bound to return in a day or two, according to the es-
tablished etiquette.

Several days since, I had the honor of an introduction
to His Majesty, Kauikeaouli, king of the Hawaiian
islands. He is a fine looking man, twenty seven or
twenty eight years of age, of a light olive color, with an
expressive face and intelligent eye, and the contour of
his features well rounded. He is about the mediu
height, and is well formed and muscular. He mad
several enquiries of Rev. Mr. Richards, who introduce
me, respecting my origin, and the reasons of my visitin
the island ; but he speaks but very little English and of
course all my remarks were addressed to him through an
interpreter. I have met the King several times since,
and once at a small party at the house of the Rev. Mr.
Bingham. His dignified bearing insures him the respect
of all the foreign residents, although he always appeal's
without any attempt at parade, in a short white jacket
and white pantaloons, except when compelled in visits
of ceremony to wear his uniform. So much attached is
he to this light and cool dress, that while making an
official visit on board a ship of war in full uniform, im-
mediately after the ceremony of introduction, he has been
known to take off his heavy cumbersome coat, and sub-
stitute a short jacket, borne by an attendant. His judg-
ment respecting ships and nautical evolutions is said to
be very good. The name of the king " Kauikeaouli,"
like that of most of his countrymen, has a significant

MISSION FAMILIES. 243

meaning attached to it, and the literal translation of it
is « hanging in the bine sky." The native that takes
care of my room bears the name of " Pahu," which sig-
nifies a " barrel " or " box," and I could easily mention
the names of many others that have a very ludicrous idea
attached to them.

1 have delayed making any particular mention of the
missionaries I have met with at Honolulu and elsewhere,
with the intention of speaking of them collectively, when
I should be on the eve of leaving these islands. There
are about forty mission families located upon the Ha-
waiian islands, eight of whom are stationed at Honolulu,
the head quarters of missionary operations. All these
families, with one exception, reside in the eastern part
of the town, constituting a very delightful neighborhood.
Once a year the missionaries hold a convention at Hon-
olulu, to make reports of their respective parishes and to
consult about the best means of benefitting those under
their charge. This anniversary was held during the
early part of my visit to Honolulu, and I had the pleasure
of becoming acquainted with many of them, whom I
should not have seen at any other time in the year.
They are all very worthy men, actuated by the most
ardent piety, and devoting all their powers to the benefit
of those among whom their lot is cast. I have heard
several of them preach in the seamen's chapel, but can-
not speak in the most exalted terms of their perform-
ances. Some of them did not appear to have prepared
themselves sufficiently for the occasion, and perhaps their
numerous cares would not admit of it. There ought to
be no inferiority in the performance, on account of the
supposed character of the audience, which consists, in a
large proportion, of seamen ; for sailors are shrewd in
their estimate of a preacher's abilities, and are apt to

244 sandwich islands.

seize with avidity, upon any peculiarity which may
afford them a subject for mirth. The chaplains sent out
to foreign ports by the "Seamen's Friend Society,"
should be endowed with no ordinary degree of sagacity
and discretion, any want of which, will be readily dis-
covered by their hearers, who are thereby taught to
cherish more firmly than ever, a saying very common
among them, that « missionaries are mere know-nothings,
sent away from home, because they cannot get into any
other business." These remarks are not dictated by a
spirit of unkindness, but from a conviction, that Bethel
chaplains, ought not to infer from the humble character
of their audience, that they are incapable of discerning
between good and bad preaching. The missionaries at
Honolulu have treated me very kindly and invited me
frequently to their houses. Mr. and Mrs. Bingham hav
taken an affectionate interest in me, which has impresse
me very strongly with a sense of their disinterested
goodness.

d

CHAPTER XX.

SANDWICH ISLANDS

Geography — Fertility — Climate — Ancient tabu system — Idol-
atry— Oppression of the chiefs — Arrival of missionaries —
Discouragements — Success — Churches at Honolulu — Schools
— Hawaiian Institute — Supremacy of law — Depopulation.

Many persons visiting these islands, and other places
where missionaries have been established, go away with
less favorable opinions of what has been accomplished
by these devoted men, than they ought to entertain, but
it arises from a want of a comprehensive view of the past
and the present. They come from a country where a
highly enlightened state of public sentiment prevails, and
has been perpetuated from generation to generation ;
where the energies of the mind are brought into activity,
and subjected to culture, from the first developement of
the faculties ; and without reflecting that the mission-
aries have been obliged to teach the whole people before
them the very elements of civilization, and to fix their
wandering minds and accustom them to think upon the
simplest truths, they are somewhat disappointed in their
expectations of finding them a civilized and intelligent
people. With the rude islanders of the Pacific, where
the gospel has not been introduced, there is an inertness
of mind verging towards idiocy, the effect of long con-
tinued devotion to degrading pleasures, accompanied
with a vacuity of thought upon every subject. Tell

21*

246 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

them of a God, and they associate his holy attributes
with the disgusting history of their fabled deities. Tell
them of religion, and their dark minds shudder at the
bloody rites of human sacrifice, which accompany their
own superstitious frenzies. It is almost impossible for
one from our own favored country, to conceive of the
depth of degradation and pollution, and the revolting
cruelty that pervaded the character of the Polynesian
Islanders in every aspect of life, before they were visited
by the heralds of salvation ; and no one can know it in
its fullest extent, except those whose early residence in
these islands was an introduction to heathenism in all its
horrors. No one however, ought to leave these islands,
without informing himself respecting the former condi-
tion of the natives previous to the introduction of Chris-
tianity, in order that he may contrast it with their
present condition, else he will have but a faint con-
ception of the immense good that has been accomplished
by the missionaries, which is not so apparent at first
view from the difficulty of conceiving of the extreme
degradation of the natives in their state of idolatry.
And this is the reason why the accounts of the mission-
aries seem to many to be too enthusiastical. All moral
excellence is judged of comparatively, and the reports of
the missionaries written upon this principle, often
appear to be too highly colored to those who are at best
but partially acquainted with things as they exist even
at the present time.

A slight sketch of the Hawaiian Islands, will enable
us to form a more correct view of what has been done
by the missionaries, than an elaborate detail could do,
and will give me an opportunity of stating several facts,
which I have as yet omitted to mention.

The Hawaiian Islands were discovered by Capt. Cook

CLIMATE. 247

in 1778, and were by him called the " Sandwich Islands,"
after the Earl of Sandwich, by which designation they
are generally known. The missionaries upon these
islands, however, have denominated them the " Hawaiian
Islands," a title which I have adopted, as has been seen
in what precedes. They are ten in number, viz., Hawaii,
Maui, Torhoorawe, Molokini, Ranai, Molokai, Oahu,
Kauai, Niihau, and Taura, and are situated on the bor-
ders of the northern tropic, between the parallels 18° 54',
23° 08', and the meridians 154° 54', 161° 45' west.
These islands are of a volcanic nature, rising in high
craggy mountains, whose sterile peaks give an aspect of
barrenness to the island far different from that of the
lovely valleys lying at their base. Two of them, Maui
and Kauai, are highly fertile, but more particularly the
latter, upon which besides large crops of sugar cane, the
morns multicaulis is cultivated in great quantities.
Maui and Kauai are admirably adapted to the culture of
this plant, and to the rearing of cocooneries ; especially
the latter, in which very ample funds have been invested
in leasing lands of the government, and preparing them
for carrying on the silk business upon a very extensive
scale. There are three kinds of worms, the American,
the Chinese, and an intermixture of these two, which
produces silk of an excellent quality. The proprietors
are novices in the business, and were some one thor-
oughly acquainted with the silk growing business, to
take up his residence upon that island, he could com-
mand a very ample support. The business will be con-
fined to reeling the raw material which will be exported
for manufacturing, and the time is not far distant when
an immense quantity of raw silk will be shipped from
these islands to foreign countries. The climate of these
islands is most delightful : indeed, the purity and equable

248 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

temperature of the atmosphere are not surpassed any
where in the world. The thermometer ranges between
65° and 86°, for the entire year, though it very rarely
deviates from 73°, and the mercury seems, as it were, to
stagnate at that point. Situated within the region of the
trade ^winds, a fine cool breeze blows over them every
day. The nights are cool, and a refreshing sleep
obviates that extreme languor to which those residing in
tropical climates are subject. There is but little dew at
night, and the skies are rarely overcast with clouds.
During the winter months, the rainy season, as it is
called prevails. It is not to be supposed, however, that
the rain falls incessantly ; for during the winter months
the rain comes in frequent showers, one or two a day
perhaps, but not in a continued fall. These squalls are
formed upon the mountains over which they hang in
dense, black clouds, which slowly descending the moun-
tains' side, discharge themselves into the valleys below.
The drought of the summer season requires irrigation
by artificial means. In the valleys, the mountain stream-
lets are diverted into a thousand little canals, but the
gardens of Honolulu are provided with large windmills,
by the revolutions of which, water is pumped up from
the wells and distributed in every direction.

The Hawaiian Islands are very favorably situated for
Astronomical observations; for the most brilliant con-
stellations of both hemispheres are here seen in all their
splendor.

Let us now turn to the moral aspect of the nation.
Among the varied horrors connected with the former
system of idolatry, there is none of so revolting a charac-
ter, or which so clearly exhibits the extreme degradation
of the people, as the tabu system, a consecration of some
particular object by the priests and the chiefs, the viola-

ANCIENT TABU SYSTEM. 249

tion of which subjected the offender to death. This
institution is thus described. "One feature of the
ancient system was found in the oppressive tabus. The
restrictions of chiefs and priests were like the poisoned
tooth of a reptile. If the shadow of a common man fell
upon a chief, it was death ; if he put on a kapa (mantle)
or inalo (girdle) of a chief, it was death ; if he went into
the chief's yard it was death; if he wore the chief's
consecrated mat, it was death; if he went upon the
house of a chief, it was death. If a man was found,
standing on those occasions, when he should prostrate
himself, viz., when the king's bathing water, or his kapa
or his malo were carried along, it was death. So too, if
he continued standing at the mention of the king's name
in song, it was death. If a man walked in the shade of
the house of a chief with his head besmeared with clay,
or with a wreath around it, or with his head wet, or
wearing a Jcihei (mantle,) it was death. There were
many other offences of the people which were made
capital by the chiefs, who magnified and exalted them-
selves over their subjects. These are some of the cruel-
ties attributable to the priests. When one of them
deemed it desirable that a temple should be built, he
applied to the king, who commanded the natives to
construct it. When it was completed, and a log of wood
obtained for a god, a man was sacrificed to impart
power to the wooden deity. When sacrifices were
offered, men were slain and laid upon the altar with
swine that had *been immolated ; if a fish proper for
offering could not be obtained, a man was sacrificed in
his stead ; and human victims were required on other
occasions. If a man committed a crime, he suffered
death ; if he was irreligious, he suffered death ; if he
indulged in connubial pleasures on a tabu day, he paid

*^50 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

the same penalty; if he made a noise v/hile prayers
were saying, he met a like fate. If a woman ate pork,
cocoa-nuts, bananas, a certain kind of fish, or lobster, it
was death. So too, was it death to be found in a canoe
on a tabu day ; and there were many other prohibitions
of the priests.

The priesthood was very oppressive to the people. If
a temple was to be built, they had the stones to collect
for the walls, and the timber and posts to put up. They
had also the thatching to do ; and a levy for sustaining
the service was made on them of every variety of food.
The time would fail to tell all the oppressions the people
suffered from this quarter. The king and priests were
much alike, and united together, they were the nation's
main burden.

Another grievance, was the tabu which existed on
account of the idols. The idols of the chiefs and of the
common people were of wood. If one made his idol of
an apple tree, the apple tree was afterwards tabu to him.
So of all the trees of which idols were made. So too, of
articles of food. If one employed taro as the object of
his idolatry, to him the taro became sacred, and might
not be eaten by him with impunity. Thus it was of
every object of which a god was made. Birds were
objects of worship. If a hen, the hen was to him sacred,
and in a similar manner respecting all the birds which
were deified. Beasts were objects of worship, and if a
hog was chosen as the object of devotion, he was sacred
to him who chose him for his god. Stones were objects
of worship, and tabu, and for the worshippers of them
to sit upon one of them would be regarded as a gross
sacrilege. Fish were idolized ; if one adopted the shark
as his god, to him the shark was sacred. So of all
things in heaven and earth j and even the bones of the

ARRIVAL OF MISSIONARIES. 251

departed were transformed into objects of worship.
Hence the vexatious intricacy with which the tabu was
overburdened, which rendered it so extremely oppressive
to the nation.

Among the tabus, the arbitrary regulations about
eating were peculiarly burdensome both to the men and
women. A man, upon his marriage, was obliged to
build an eating house for himself; another for his god ;
another for his sleeping apartment; an apartment for
his wife to eat in, was then built, and also a place in
which to beat kapa. In addition to this, he prepared
the taro and baked it for his wife and himself in distinct
ovens, and then converted the separate portions into poi,
which was always eaten in their respective eating houses.
They never dared to eat together, lest they should incur
the penalty of death for having violated the tabic. This
was the tabu, which, on account of its severity was first
exploded, and with it the whole system was abandoned.

Another point in their past history worthy of notice, is
this, that the common people were burdened with con-
stant toil for their chiefs, and were severely taxed in
various articles of property, which were also taken away
from them for the chiefs without the slightest remunera-
tion from their oppressive masters." There were other
crimes of the most atrocious character prevalent among
them. It is indeed difficult to conceive of any thing on
the black catalogue of guilt that did not find its counter-
part'in the character of this people. s

An anecdote told by one of the missionaries, very for-
cibly illustrates the tyrannical bearing of the chiefs
towards the common people. "A poor man " said he,
u by some means obtained possession of a pig, when too
small to make a meal for his family. He secreted it at
a distance from his house, and fed it, until it had grown

252 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

to a size sufficient to afford the desired repast. It was
then killed and put into an oven, with the same precau-
tion of secrecy ; but when almost prepared for appetites
whetted by long anticipation to an exquisite keenness, a
caterer of the royal household unhappily came near, and
attracted to the spot by the savory fumes of the baking
pile, deliberately took a seat until the animal was cooked,
and then bore off the promised banquet without ceremony
or apology."

But my limits will not allow me to pursue this subject
any farther, and I turn to a more interesting feature of
Hawaiian history, the introduction of the Christian
religion. On the 23d. of October, 1819, the first band of
missionaries destined for these islands, sailed from Boston,
and after a tedious voyage of six months, arrived in April
1820. Meanwhile the providence of God had been pre-
paring the way for them to introduce the religion of the
cross; and the destruction of the ancient system of idol-
atry and that of the tabu, so intimately connected with
it, were the first welcome tidings that gladdened their
hearts after their long voyage, and upon their arrival at
these remote and uncivilized islands of the Pacific.
These wonderful events seemed to them a miraculous
interposition of divine providence, in removing the most
formidable impediments to the successful introduction of
the holy religion of the cross among a people, who had
professedly abandoned the degrading institutions of their
idol worship, and begun to make some enquiries after
the services and worship of the "unknown God." It
was at this crisis that the missionaries arrived : but if
they had never come, the condition of this people would
have been but little improved. They would have
exchanged polytheism for atheism, but have retained
some of the worst features of the former system. We

ARRIVAL OF MISSIONARIES. 253

can easily see the nature of the influence exerted by the
foreigners upon the nation, from the strenuous opposition
they made to the reception of the missionaries, whose
instructions they had good reason to fear would subvert
their selfish plans. From the misrepresentations of
these men, the chiefs were suspicious of the designs of
the missionaries, and it was not until eight or ten days
after their arrival, that they were allowed to land ; and
then, it was with the express stipulation that at the end
of a year they should leave the islands, if their conduct
was not satisfactory to the chiefs. At the expiration of
this period, so sensible had the nation become of the
benevolent intentions of the missionaries, that they were
glad to have them remain longer. But the missionaries
had many disheartening difficulties to contend with.
They took up their home in a land, where but a few
years previous, human victims were immolated upon the
altars of blood thirsty idols; and infants, murdered by
their own mothers, were dashed into the roaring surf;
where but a few years before, a song of savage triumph
might be heard, as a trembling victim was to be roasted
to satisfy their cannibal appetites. Here might have been
witnessed the most disgusting scenes of licentiousness,
and woman found degraded to a level with the lowest
animals, and allowed to exist but as subservient to their
vilest passions. What a picture of wretchedness is
exhibited by the history of those times, every feature of
which is so revolting ! The tabu had been abolished,
and the worship of idols had been abandoned, it is true;
but their demoralizing effects still remained. The mis-
sionary with untiring zeal illumined their darkened
minds with the contemplation of truths, to which their
minds hitherto accustomed to sensual and grovelling
ideas were utter strangers. He devoted himself to the

22

254 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

study of the language, and reduced it to a written form.
Schools were established, where religious truth and the
elements of knowledge were with affectionate solicitude
instilled into their minds. In 1822, the printing press
was first put into operation, and since then a great variety
of publications of a religious and moral character have
been issued, as will be seen by consulting the statistics
of the Hawaiian Mission. Within a few years, the
entire scriptures have been published at Honolulu, in the
Hawaiian language, in a style highly indicative of the
improved state of the arts among this people. Nor have
the mere rudiments of knowledge been taught. At La-
haina on the island of Maui is a high school, where the
higher branches of science, Geometry, Trigonometry
and Navigation, have been successfully prosecuted. To
follow the advancement of the nation in intelligence,
must be an interesting theme, a task liowever which
belongs rather to the historian than to the tourist. Suffice
it to say, that the engravings of maps and landscapes on
copper, executed by the pupils of the high school, are
among the most astonishing proofs of the progress of the
nation in civilization, and of their capacity for improve-
ment. At the eastern part of Honolulu, where the
mission families are located, is the printing office and
appurtenances, and the other buildings connected with
the missionary operations upon these islands. The
printing office is a two story building with an ample
basement, and is constructed entirely of coral stone.
There are belonging to it, three or four printing presses,,
several founts of type of various kinds, and a screw
press. Almost all kinds of printing are executed at this
office in good style. There is also a bindery connected
with the printing office, where the binding of books is not
inferior to what we ordinarily see in the United States.

CHURCHES AT HONOLULU. 255

At the different stations in the islands, churches have
been erected by the natives for religious worship, and the
architecture of these indicates in some measure the ad-
vancement in the arts of life at the respective stations.
At Honolulu, there are two native churches, erected at
different times, and differing widely in excellence of con-
struction. The oldest one is an immense thatched build-
ing, nearly two hundred feet in length, making no pre-
tensions to any advantages except in securing the cool-
ness and comfort of the congregation. The accompany-
ing representation is from a sketch I took of it in one of
my morning walks, and I need not particularize respect-
ing its exterior. In front of the middle door, is the pulpit,
a plain though neat structure, upon each side of which,
are the rude benches of the natives, capable of seating
not far from two thousand, and the church could contain
over a thousand more. This church is under the care
of the Rev. Hiram Bingham, one of the first missionaries
that were sent to these islands, and it numbers not far
from one thousand members in good standing.

The second native church is located in the northern
part of the town, and is under the care of the Rev. Mr.
Smith. As I attended service at this church, I shall be
somewhat more particular in my description of it. It is
a large building, about one hundred and twenty feet
long by sixty broad, made of plastered adobies, having a
roof projecting five or six feet from the main building,
and thatched with straw. The belfry is a tower uncon-
nected with the main building, as will be seen by refer-
ence to the sketch. The interior is finished off with a
nice white wall, and reflects great credit upon the skill
of the natives. The pulpit, consisting of a desk upon
a platform, is located in the rear of the building, at some
distance from the wall, from the difficulty of being heard

256 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

over so large a building. Notwithstanding the great di-
mensions of this church, every part was occupied with
attentive hearers, and I should judge there were over a
thousand persons in the room. The congregation was
perfectly decorous, and entered into the services of the
sanctuary with a propriety, which would have been
creditable to an American audience. The exercises were
conducted in the congregational form, and the tunes,
which were familiar to me, were very well performed,
though marked with a peculiar nasal intonation. There
were several natives present, whose hoary locks indicated
that they had been witnesses of the scenes of by-gone days,
and of the strange revolutions that had so rapidly suc-
ceeded one another within the last twenty years. And
only twenty years have sufficed to produce such mighty
moral revolutions ! I often thought, as I looked upon
these representatives of the past, what must be their feel-
ings, in contrasting their former degraded condition with
the present blessings, which a pure and holy religion has
conferred upon them. There are about a thousand com-
municants connected with this church ; and from all I
can learn, they appear to understand the fundamental
doctrines of religion, and the nature of their covenant
obligations, so that their admission into the church is
the result of a sober and intelligent conviction of its
importance.

But the place of religious worship, which is destined
to be by far the finest upon these islands, and which in
architecture and construction will vie with some of the
largest in our own country, is the church which is build-
ing in the eastern part of the town, very near the oh
native church. The representation I have made of it,
taken from a front view and side view, lent me by th<
Rev. Mr. Bingham, by whom the edifice was designee

schools. 257

and who is himself chief architect. The foundation of
this building was laid in 1839, and it is now carried up
nearly as high as to the cornice. It is built of coral
stone, hewn out into large cubical blocks, and its dimen-
sions are very great, being one hundred and forty four
by seventy eight feet. The expenses are defrayed by
the chiefs and by the contributions of the natives. The
labor is performed almost entirely by the natives, and
when the church is completed, it will stand as a monu-
ment which will reflect high honor upon the enterprize
and skill of the Hawaiian nation. The representations
of the old and new native churches, are. in some respects,
emblematic of the past and present condition of the Ha-
waiian nation.

There are several schools in Honolulu, for the instruc-
tion of native children; but the most interesting among
them, is a school for the education of the young chiefs
of the nation, which is under the care of Mr. and Mrs.
Cooke. It is held in a large adobie building, erected in
the form of a quadrangle, enclosing an area, upon every
side of which are the apartments of the pupils, the school-
room, and dining-room, fitted up in the most convenient
manner, and all at the expense of the government, whose
desire, that those who are to direct the future destinies
of the nation may be under a religious influence, is
highly commendable. Among the pupils was pointed
out to me the the Governor of Kauai, an office which is
hereditary in these islands. He is a fine looking boy,
and although rather restive when first introduced into
the school, he has become very obedient, and attentive
to his books.

The Oahu Charity School was commenced about
seven years ago, and has been supported by the patronage
of the foreign residents, and by the contributions of the

22*

258 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

benevolent visiting these islands. The house is a
plain little edifice, built of coral stone, with a projecting
tower surmounted by a modest cupola, in which there
is a bell to summon the scholars to their tasks at the ap-
pointed hour. The school now contains about eighty-
pupils, consisting of half-cast children, and youth bom
on the islands, and being the offspring of foreign fathers,
destined to exert a great influence in the Hawaiian na-
tion. Until the establishment of this institution, the
education of this class of children was almost entirely
neglected, but now their situation seems to promise that
they will become fitted for stations of usefulness and re-
spectability in life. It was originated, I believe, by Mr.
and Mrs. Johnston, who went out to these islands as mis-
sionaries, under whose charge it still continues, and to
whose industry and skill, its present high degree of
prosperity is to be attributed.

One of the most interesting things at Honolulu, is the
Institute, a society for the promotion of scientific investi-
gation of every kind. Belonging to the society is a
museum of curiosities, and also of specimens of natural
history. There is also a library in the same room, con-
sisting of several hundred choice books. The objects of
the society are of a highly interesting character. For
here in the central point of a vast ocean, studded with
numerous groups of islands, a great variety of curious
and useful information respecting the manners and cus-
toms of the different islanders, the natural history, and
the productions of Polynesia, might be collected. Just
before our arrival, unfortunately, the society had sus-
pended its meetings for a time, so that 1 had not the pleas-
ure of attending any of their exercises.

The missionaries in their labors at these islands, while
they have taught the people the way of life, have not

schools. 259

been neglectful of the useful arts. The men have been
instructed in agriculture, and the women have been
taught to sew, and to make garments for themselves, and
thus a people, indolent by nature, have been made indus-
trious by those whose perseverance has indicated their
devotion to the temporal as well as to the spiritual inter-
ests of the natives. But the happiest results that have
flowed from the labors of the missionaries, and to which
all the indications of refinement that are to be seen in these
islands are to be attributed, have been owing to the es-
tablishment and supremacy of law throughout the
nation. Next to religion, and indeed based upon it, was
the recommendation of the missionaries to establish de-
finite laws, by which the nation was to be governed, and
among the first enactments of the government were those
which were intimately connected with the observance
of religion ; for in February, 1823, the government pub-
licly acknowledged the Christian Sabbath, and required
the suspension of ordinary business and sports on that
sacred day. Since 1 have been at Honolulu, I have been
struck with the stillness and good order observed on the
Sabbath. All the business and pleasures of the week
are given up, and at the ringing of the bell, the people
attired in their best, are seen walking quietly to their re-
spective places of worship. The supremacy of law upon
these islands, has given a perfect security to property,
such as is not enjoyed any where else in the Pacific ; and
this is the secret of the commercial prosperity of the Ha-
waiian islands, and the appearance of enterprize and
affluence exhibited by the foreign residents at Honolulu.
It is the mainspring of commerce all over the world, and
especially among these rude islanders of thePacific, whose
cupidity and treachery no sense of justice would ever
have restrained, were it not ingrafted into them by the

260 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

religious teachings of the missionaries. Again I would
ask, what would have been the condition of these islands
had they never been visited by these devoted men 1
Would they have been taught to give up their degrading
superstitions ; to love justice and integrity ; to maintain
a sacred respect for property, by the example and
recommendation of the foreigners residing among them 7
Alas, the conduct of foreigners has too often inculcated
far different precepts from these, and these poor islanders
would never have heard any mention of the God we
worship, except in the oath of execration. I do not
mean to imply that all the foreign residents at the Ha-
waiian Islands are exerting a bad influence upon the
nation. Far from it ; there are many that I could name,
whose example has a most salutary effect upon the
government ; but these very persons would never have
taken up their residence upon these islands, unless they
had been preceded by the missionaries, whose exertions
have brought about that supremacy of law and security
of property which they now enjoy.

The most alarming feature in the present aspect of the
Hawaiian Islands, is the depopulation which is steadily
taking place from year to year. I have heard several
causes assigned for this, some of which are whimsical
enough ; but the most ridiculous of all of them, was told
me by the pilot that took the North America into the
harbor upon our arrival. He has resided for many
years at these islands, and like many other foreigners,
entertains an antipathy to the missionaries, and is dis-
posed to attribute every thing bad, to their influence.
Upon asking his opinion of the cause of the decrease of
population, he said, that '-'• since the missionaries obtained
footing upon these islands, there has been so much
•prayings that the natives have been literally prayed to

DEPOPULATION. 261

death. They are a very superstitious people, and it was
formerly the case with them to offer up prayers for the
destruction of their individual enemies. The victim,
imagining himself under a malignant influence from the
prayers of his adversary, grew sick, and in a few days,
expired. So it is at the present time, as was formerly
the case ; for the natives are constantly harassed about
religious matters, and die through their own superstitious
terrors. On one occasion," said he, in confirmation of
his theory, " I was called upon to read prayers over the
corpse of a foreign resident, and among the natives that
thronged around, was a young chief, who had incurred
the resentment of the deceased for some cause or other.
As the burial service proceeded, he imagined that the
prayers offered on the occasion were incantations offered
to the god of the stranger for vengeance upon himself.
So deeply was he impressed with this belief, that he was
filled with terror and apprehension. It haunted him.
wherever he went, until he sank beneath the horrid
images his fancy conjured up, and in about a week he
was a corpse, the victim of his own superstitious fears.
Religion is a gloomy thing, and it acts upon the simple
minds of the natives in such a way, that they are blighted
with melancholy, and die under the influence of so much
priestcraft." Previous to the arrival of the missionaries
at these islands, there were various causes that produced
a diminution of the population, as the frequent wars,
pestilence, and infanticide; but particularly the intro-
duction of vile diseases by the ships touching at the
islands. Since then, not even Christianity has been able
to stay this infection, whose deadly taint is infused so
widely throughout the nation. The consequence has
been, that there have been fewer children, and these
have too frequently fallen victims to the sins of their
parents by inheriting their diseases.

262

ANDWICH ISLANDS

" Vitio parentum
Rara juventus."

The following table exhibits the decrease of popula-
tion at the several islands within the years 1832 and
1836, a period of only four years.

Hawaii

Maui

Molokai

Ranai

Kahoolawe

Oahu

Kauai

INiihau

Total

1832

1836

45,752

39,364

35,062

24,199

6,000

6,000

1,600

1,200

80

80

29,755

26.S09

10,977

3,934

1,047

993

130,273

102,579

Decrease.

6,388
10,863

400

2,946

7,043

54

27,694

What alarming facts does this table declare ! That the
annual decrease of the population is, upon an average
over six thousand. This estimate however, is much too
high, 1 have been told, as it is formed by a comparison
of the births and deaths that come to the knowledge of
the missionaries, at their respective stations. A birth is
regarded by the natives as a matter of so little conse-
quence, that it is not made known to the missionaries,
whereas a death is an affair of public notoriety, and is
succeeded by continual wailing for several days by the
relatives of the deceased. Still the depopulation of these
islands is steadily moving forwards, and unless it is
speedily arrested, the total extinction of the nation is
inevitable, and these humble islanders must shrink away
before the irresistible march of foreign enterprize, and
like the aborigines of our own country, become extermi-

DEPOPULATION. 263

nated. What part Roman Catholicism is to bear in
directing the future destinies of the nation, it is impossi-
ble to tell, but no one who is solicitous for the welfare of
this interesting people, can look upon their movements
without apprehension. But that they have gained a
permanent footing upon many of the islands of the Pa-
cific, and that their religion which is so indulgent to-
wards the gross practices of the natives, and so attractive by
its brilliant pageantry, is destined to have the ascenden-
cy in most of these islands, is perhaps not improbable.

The Hawaiian Islands are annually growing in im-
portance as their natural resources are becoming more
fully developed, and their commercial advantages more
generally known. Situated as they are in the central
point of the vast Pacific, and communicating with the
continent of America on the east, and with Asia on the
west, and to the south west, with the numberless islands
of Polynesia, they seem to be destined to be the seat of a
flourishing empire. Before this period shall have arrived,
however, there is some reason for fearing, that from the
depopulating causes enumerated above, or from the
grasping and engrossing policy of foreign nations, the
government will have passed into other hands, and the
present race have reached the borders of extermination.

With regard to the shameful aggressions of the French
frigate « L'Artemise," at these islands, about a year since,
and the insolent and bullying conduct of the French
Consul, my limits will not allow me to enter into the
discussion in full, without which, the transactions on
that occasion, cannot be presented with sufficient vivid-
ness. All the proceedings of that disgraceful affair — the
most outrageous that has violated national sovereignty
for many years— have been published to the world, and
I are perhaps, familiar to the reader.

'

CHAPTER XXI.

VOYAGE TO TAHITI.

Embarkation — Passengers — An incident — Calm latitudes —
Poisonous fish.

Tuesday, August 4th. Yesterday, I bade a long
adieu to many kind friends at Honolulu, and established
myself in my quarters aboard the barque " Flora," Cap-
tain Spring, bound for New York. To Dr. Wood and
his estimable and accomplished lady, and to Mr. Brins-
made, the United States' Consul, I am particularly
indebted, for the continued kindness and hospitality
they displayed towards me, which I shall ever bear in
affectionate remembrance. Mr. Brinsmade is a man of
most excellent character, the friend and supporter of the
missionaries, and takes an active part in the religious
interests of Honolulu : in all these respects exhibiting a
striking contrast to his predecessor. If all the represent-
atives of our nation in foreign countries, were like the
United States Consul at the Hawaiian Islands, not only
would the interests of the republic be sustained with
more dignity, but their influence would have a most
excellent effect upon the people with whom they are
located.

With these deserved tributes to the friends I have 1

'

BARQUE FLORA. 265

behind at the Hawaiian Islands, which have faded from
view many hours since, I hasten to take a sketch of my
ship and fellow voyagers. The Flora, is a barque of
about two hundred and ninety three tons burden, nearly
a hundred tons smaller than the North America, and
in many other respects is her inferior. She is a merchant
vessel, and arrived at Honolulu a short time since, with
stores for the Exploring Expedition. Her commander
is from a highly respectable family, a brother of Dr.
Spring of New York City, and a gentleman of courteous
manners. The Flora, is chartered by one of the
mercantile houses at Honolulu, and is principally
freighted with sugar and molasses, novel exports from
the Hawaiian Islands to the United States, a distance of
eighteen thousand miles. The speculation will undoubt-
edly prove a failure, from the high rate at which the
ship is chartered— twelve hundred dollars per month —
and from the long time that must elapse before reaching
the United States, as the Flora is reputed to be a very
dull sailer. In addition to the articles I have mentioned,
she carries several casks of arrow root, of a very superior
quality, and a quantity of hides. But the most interest-
ing specimen of the productions of the Hawaiian Islands,
consists in several varieties of raw silk from the planta-
tions on the island of Kauai.

The cabin of the Flora is very small, having three
state-rooms, one of which belonging to the captain is the
only one whose dimensions were intended for comfort.
As the other two are situated upon each quarter of the
ship, they are conformed to the shape of the vessel, and
are somewhat triangular in their outlines, which renders
them very inconvenient ; for with the large sea chest I
am obliged to admit into mine, there is hardly room
enough left to stand up securely. The steerage— that

23

266 VOYAGE TO TAHITI.

part of a ship lying between the cabin and the mainmast,
is fitted up with temporary state-rooms, of large dimen-
sions, for the other passengers. There are twenty
passengers in all, who, with the exception of two or three
that are to be left at the Society Islands, are to consti-
tute a community by ourselves for many a month, while
roving the ocean, in the long voyage to our native land.
The character of the passengers, gives the fairest prom-
ises of a happy and profitable voyage. Mr. and Mrs.
Bingham, after a residence of twenty years at these
remote isles of the sea, during which, amid toils and
privations of which we have no adequate conception,
they have seen the christian religion established among
a race of idolaters, and have given permanency to a lan-
guage existing but from generation to generation, have
now embarked with their family of three young chil-
dren, to revisit the land of their fathers, for the recovery of
their health, and then to return again to these islands,
after bidding farewell forever to their children, and com-
mitting them to the care of a benevolent public. The
tide of contending emotions that agitate their hearts can
only be imagined. With the thousand perplexities and
cares attendant upon making preparation for so long a
voyage, and in separating themselves perhaps forever
from a people that had grown up under their instruction,
and to whom they had become tenderly attached, they
were almost exhausted, and it seemed like a renewal of
that depressing sorrow that attended their departure from
their native land. The poor natives accompanied them
in crowds as they came down to the ship, and thronged
the dock, with sorrow depicted in their countenances.
Soon the voice of wailing, which had been heard from
one or two. became general, and a note of wild lamenta-
tion burst forth in a deafening chorus, until by the

AN INCIDENT. 267

efforts of two or three of the missionaries, the sorrow of
the people was restrained to a more quiet demonstration
of their grief. I could not but admire the heroic forti-
tude with which Mrs. Thurston tore herself away from her
aifectionate husband, to voyage with her family, consist-
ing of two sons and three daughters, to a far distant
country, which had almost become a foreign land, after
an exile of twenty years. Poor Mr. Thurston ! When
he returns to his home upon the rocky shore of Hawaii,
how heavily must the lonesome hours pass by, which
are no longer enlivened by the presence of his beloved
family. There are a father and mother too, who with
bursting hearts, commit their little daughter, of only nine
years of age, to the care of Mrs. Bingham, to be borne
far away from their presence to a land of strangers.
Such are some of the heart-rending scenes that are often
exhibited in the missionaries' life, who not only exile
themselves from all they hold dear in their native land,
but are ready to sunder every tie of affection, if required
by a sense of duty. There are also a Mr. and Mrs.
.Rogers, from Hartford, Connecticut, very estimable
people, who are returning home after a residence of a
year or two at these islands, during which time they
have been engaged in the silk culture. Mr. R., has been
laboring for many months, under a severe attack of the
epidemic ophthalmia prevalent upon Kauai, where he has
been residing, which has obliged him to confine himself
to a room made perfectly dark, a very disagreeable situa-
tion in so warm a climate, exclusive of the distressing
nature of the ophthalmia.

Our voyage commences rather unpropitiously; for
this morning, we were all thrown into consternation by
the alarm that one of the foremast hands had cut his
throat in the forecastle. Captain S., followed by two or

268 VOYAGE TO TAHITI.

three of the passengers hurried forward and ordered the
man to be brought upon deck, when a deep gash upon
the right side of his neck, from which the blood was
bubbling out, and streaming down, told very plainly
that he had penetrated into his windpipe, while a ghast-
ly paleness made the wound appear more dangerous
than it proved to be. The gash was speedily closed up
with a needle and thread, and the man placed under
guard, lest he should repeat this attempt at suicide.
This man had been put on board the Flora, by the
United States consul at Honolulu, agreeably to law, after
having lived upon government for about a year. He
had occasionaily given indications of mental aberration,
and displayed great reluctance to come on board the
ship, shedding tears very profusely when he was com-
pelled to do so. To witness insanity is a painful scene,
anywhere ; but to be brought into so close proximity
with it, and with its extravagances and perhaps violence
constantly enacted before one's eyes, as must necessarily
be the case when it occurs on board ship, seems to cast
a shade of melancholy over our prospects for the voyage.
Monday, Sept. 7. After leaving Honolulu, our course
was in a south-easterly direction, "on the wind," and we
had a very pleasant run for two or three days, until we
arrived in latitude 10° north, when we encountered a
series of calms and light baffling winds, that detained us
for more than two weeks between the parallels of 10°
and 40° north. The Flora has most fully acted out
her character for being a dull sailer, and in this calm
region, between the north-east and south-east trade
winds, she was perfectly intolerable. Her track over
the ocean marked down upon the chart was zig-zag in
every direction, like the filaments of a spider's web. Day
after day presented the same scene with but little variety.

POISONOUS FISH. 269

The ship with her sails resting listlessly against the
masts and rigging, lay motionless upon the sea, except as
she was lifted by the swell as it rose and fell sluggishly,
while to the verge of the horizon, the glassy ocean was
a mirror to the piles of massive clouds, and reflected the
intense rays of the sun, that seemed to be concentrated
in this region. Two or three times during the day, a
black cloud might be seen slowly rising above the hori-
zon, and expanding itself; while in its approach, a dark
shadow was cast upon the waters, preceded by the wind
as it began to moan in the rigging, and accompanied by
a refreshing rain, which soon passed over, however — the
breeze died away, and the scorching sun came out
again. In latitude 4° north, the south-east trade winds
came to our assistance, and removed us from this region
of rain, squalls and calms, into a more congenial clime.
We crossed the equator in longitude 148° 20' west, and
steering close hauled upon the wind, made a southerly
course very nearly, but have fallen some distance to
leeward of Tahiti however, and are now endeavoring to
work up to windward.

While we were floating about in the calm region north
of the equator, the ship was surrounded by large schools
of Bonetto and Albacore, that continued around her for
many days, and even accompanied us for some time after
we emerged from it, which afforded us a fine opportunity
for fishing, and numbers of both varieties were captured
every day. One morning, after we had breakfasted very
freely upon some bonetto, one of the passengers was
seized with a violent blinding headache, with a feeling of
severe oppression upon the head, and the face was suf-
fused with a deep purple hue, as if all the blood in the
system had been determined in that direction. In about
an hour, the symptoms began to be more favorable, and

23*

I

270 VOYAGE TO TAHITI.

not long after, the effects of this sudden attack had
entirely passed away. A day or two afterwards, another
person was taken in a similar manner, after partaking
freely of a dish of bonetto, which convinced us that there
were poisonous properties belonging to these fish, but
confined to a particular part, as was evident from the
fact, that but one person had been disagreeably affected
in each of these instances, whereas the dish was partici-
pated in by all at the table. The poisonous properties
that are frequently resident in the dolphin are well
known, particularly in those that are taken in the vicin-
ity of the West India Islands, but in the other varieties
of ocean fish that live near the surface, as the bonetto
and albacore, it is a rare occurrence to find them thus
infected. While I was aboard the North America,
we caught great numbers of these fish, but never expe-
rienced any injury from eating them. To detect the
presence of poison, a silver spoon cooked along with
them, is said to be an infallible test, as the silver will
become blackened, if there are any poisonous properties
present. In every case like those I have mentioned an
emetic should be speedily administered, which will gene-
rally afford immediate relief. It would be an interesting
object of enquiry to the naturalist, I should suppose, to
discover the cause of this infection of ocean fish with
poisonous properties, and in what part of the fish they
reside.

CHAPTER XXII.

TAHITI.

Arrival at Tahiti— Papeete Bay— British Consulate — Ameri-
can whale ships — Natives — Capt. Upham — United States'
Consul — Disaster at Tongatabu.

Monday, September 14. After an unusually long
passage of thirty eight days from Honolulu, Tahiti and
the adjacent islands hove in sight, and we came to anchor
in Papeete (" Pah-pay-ay-tay") bay, on Thursday, Sep-
tember 10th, with the expectation of spending two or
three days at this lovely island. Papeete bay is on the lee
side of the island of Tahiti, around which the trade
winds, intercepted by the lofty mountains, are diverted in
curves around the northern and southern points of the
island, in such a manner, that a little to the southward
of the entrance to the harbor, there is a tract of water
which, is almost always perfectly calm, where ships are
sometimes detained for many hours, while, perhaps,
within a few feet of them, the wind, in a regularly de-
fined stratum, is sweeping down from the mountains and
dashing up the " white caps" upon the surface of the sea.
The appearance of Tahiti is highly picturesque, and de-
lightful to the eye, as you gradually draw nearer and
nearer. Its outline is bold, and the high mountains that
rise with a steep ascent from the shores form many an
angular ridge, until the topmost peaks pierce the clouds,

272 TAHITI.

that hang like wreaths around their summits ; while
down their sides a bright red clay contrasts strangely
with the deep green verdure of the ravines. From the
gracefully winding shore, long low points of land are
seen running out into the sea, covered with a dense array
of cocoa-nut groves, whose tall, branchless trunks, and
canopies of broad leaves, present a novel and interesting
appearance. At irregular distances from the shore, a
coral reef extends itself; upon which the sea bursts, and
encircles the islands with a snow-white fringe. In many
places, the reef is connected immediately with the shore,
but it is generally constructed at some distance, parallel
to it, forming in some instances, safe anchorage for ships
in the placid lagoons that lie between the reef and the
shore. It is a singular fact, that wherever fresh water
streams run into the sea, there are openings in the reef
abreast of them ; for the fresh water appears to have
neutralized the labors of the animalcule, to which these
reefs are supposed to owe their origin. Upon this prin-
ciple, Papeete harbor was formed. Across a deep recess,
in the island, extends the reef, which, far to the right, is
interrupted, thus giving passage into the harbor while
the surf bursts in one continued roar upon the immov-
able barrier upon each side. A ship in coming to an-
chor, runs into the passage, then beats up to her desired
anchorage — for the wind is almost always from one
quarter, that is, ahead. A noble sheet of water spreads out
before you, a mile in length perhaps, and a half mile wide.
On the left hand side, a small island of circular shape is
a beautiful feature in the scenery of the bay, the shores
of which, down to the beach are crowned with luxuri-
ant groves, while a narrow point of land running out to-
wards the reef, and set thickly with cocoa-nut trees,
gives variety to the view in that direction. Around

PAPEETE BAY. 273

this point, between the reef and the shore, there is a safe
passage for ships up to Point Venus, celebrated in the
voyages of Capt. Cook, as the place from which the
transit of Venus was observed — whence its name. Pa-
peete Bay is one of the finest in the world, and is far su-
perior to Honoulu Harbor, in natural qualities. The
hoarse surges that beat upon the reef without, are lulled
to rest in its tranquil waters where

" The glassy ocean hushed forgets to roar,
But trembling murmurs on the sandy shore."

Protected from the winds by the lofty mountain peaks,
and embosomed in verdure of the densest luxuriance of
the tropics, Papeete Bay exceeds in beauty, any sheet of
water I have ever seen. It is so capacious, that a fleet
of a hundred sail of ships might lie at anchor without
incommoding one another, and its depth of water is such
that large vessels are moored within a stone's throw of
the shore.

To form some idea of the appearance of Papeete, the
seat of government at Tahiti, imagine the shore on
the right hand side of the bay, to consist of a hot sand
beach, and within a few feet of the water's edge, a range
of light built, white houses, the intervals between which
are filled up with the sombre shantees of the natives,
while the rest of the settlement is concealed by a dense
grove of orange and lime trees, prominent among which
rise the stately bread-fruit trees, with their dark green
enameled foliage, varied here and there by the waving
leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, and you have some faint
idea of the aspect of the harbor, where nature has been
so profuse in richness of scenery, but art so humble.
The residences of the foreigners, are light wooden struc-
tures, painted white with green blinds and thatched roofs ;
in the interior the rafters are left uncovered in many in-

274 TAHITI.

stances, and they are divided off into separate rooms, by
rude partitions constructed of boards sawn from the
bread-fruit tree.

As we came to anchor, the other day, we were boarded
by Mr. Pritchard, British Consul, belonging formerly to
the missionary corps upon these islands, who came to
welcome our missionary passengers, and to propose
measures for their accommodation during the detention
of the ship at Papeete. Mr. Pritchard is a man of very
amiable character and pleasant manners, and the course
he has pursued, reflects high honor upon the nation he
represents. Although nominally pursuing a different
vocation from that of the missionary, he has not relaxed
his exertions for the welfare of Tahiti, but preaches very
frequently both in the native and in the foreign chapels.

A short time after we had dropped our anchor, an
American whale ship, the "Benjamin Tucker," Capt.
Worth, got under way, and ran out of the harbor, bound
on a cruise. Her fortune was somewhat similar with
that of the North America ; for when standing in for
an anchorage in a curve of the shore at James's Island,
one of the Gallapagos group, the ship suddenly struck a
sunken rock, and with such violence, that her loss seem-
ed to be inevitable. This occurred not far from the
scene of our disaster and about the same time. Had the
North America continued on her original course after
the accident which befel her at Chatham Island, both
ships would have been making repairs at Tahiti, about
the same time. It was a most fortunate circumstance
however, that our course was altered for Honolulu, a
more eligible place not only in offering greater facilities
on all occasions, but because Tahiti would have been
entirely exhausted of the materials we required, if the
other ship, had chanced to have arrived first. Forothei

PAPEETE BAY. 275

reasons than these I have mentioned, I esteem it a most
happy circumstance that Capt. Richards determined to
bear away for Oahu.

There was another American whale ship, the " Alex-
ander Mansfield " of Hudson, lying dismantled near the
shore. JNot long ago, she had left Papeete bay, bound on a
cruise, when, after being at sea for a few days, it was
accidentally discovered that the stern timbers of the ship
were falling to pieces. To have proceeded on the voy-
age in this dangerous condition would have been mad-
ness, and she returned to Papeete, where she was " con-
demned " as unseaworthy, and dismantled, a frequent
occurrence whenever ships are found to be incompetent
for service, either through age, or from injury. In a
case like this, happening in a foreign port, the American
Consul, upon receiving representations from the master
of the weak condition of his ship, calls a " survey," as
the examination is termed, which is performed by one
or two masters of vessels, and a ship carpenter, who de-
cide upon the fitness of the ship to go to sea, after a
thorough inspection of her timbers. For this service they
receive a suitable remuneration, and their decision de-
termines the fate of the ship. The " Mansfield" was for-
merly a Liverpool packet, sailing from New York many
years since, an exaltation that would hardly be surmised
from the appearance of the dingy looking hulk lying
condemned at Papeete.

As soon as possible, I went ashore, where I was sur-
prised at the many marks of indolence, and want of en-
terprise that presented themselves in every direction, and
I could not but contrast the aspect of industry and vigor
exhibited at Honolulu, with the lifeless air that pervaded
Papeete. With the exception of two small piers, belong-
ing to the French and English consuls, and used for

276 TAHITI.

boats, there is no landing except immediately upon the
beach. Nothing about the place indicates the least pub-
lic spirit and energy. There were no large ware -houses
filled with goods as at Honolulu, but all along the beach,
we saw groups of natives, sitting under the shade of the
cocoa-nut tree appearing to have nothing to do whatso-
ever, but to cast a dreamy look over the scenery of the
bay, and to criticise the appearance of the Flora, as
she lay at anchor, with her head high up in the air and
her stern far depressed in the water — for she was sadly
out of trim. Even their cupidity for levying contribu-
tions upon strangers, in the way of exchange for fruits
and other articles — a predominant characteristic of the
Pacific islanders — could tempt none of them to come
alongside the ship, whereas, at Honolulu, a vessel would
be surrounded by noisy venders of fruits and vegetables,
before she had even come to anchor. There are many
mountain rills emptying into the bay, which we forded
as well as we were able, for, although the beach is the
thoroughfare for all classes, yet they are too indolent to
construct bridges across these water courses, and prefer
wading through them to exerting themselves to such a
degree.

As we passed along the beach, 1 was introduced to
Capt. Upham, Master of a large whale ship, the "Sarah,"
which was " standing off and on" outside the harbor.
"When my name was announced to him, he enquired if I
was related to a young gentleman of the same family
name, residing in New York city. Upon my answering
in the affirmative, and that he was a brother of mine, I
was delighted to hear that the Captain had been very
well acquainted with him while boarding in the same
house in the city ; for nothing is more acceptable to one
who is far from home, in a strange land, than to meet with

AMERICAN WHALE S1IIPS. 277

one who is acquainted with those we love, for we then
have a theme of conversation which brings our friends
vividly to view. I was then invited by Captain Upham,
to take dinner with him at a boarding house kept by an
Englishwoman, who is almost entirely indebted to cap-
tains and officers of American whaleships for her pleas-
ant little cottage and its appurtenances. After dinner,
which by the way, was in a style of profusion quite as-
tonishing to one connected with the Barque Flora, I
parted with my newly acquired friend, who soon went
off to his ship, a fine vessel of five hundred tons bur-
den and carrying five boats in service, with a crew of
forty men.

Proceeding along the beach, I was made acquainted
with Mr. Bladder, American Consul at his residence sit-
uated at the head of the bay. Our principal topic of
conversation was the number of American whaleships
that had touched at Papeete within a few months. Ow-
ing to the recent occupation of New Zealand by the
English, whose grasping policy induces them to seize
with avidity, upon the slightest pretext, the possessions
of those who are too weak to resist their invasion,
American whaleships have been excluded from obtain-
ing supplies there, and have been obliged to go else-
where ; hence an unusual number have visited Papeete
bay. Since the commencement of the the year, fifty-
seven whale ships had arrived here for recruits, having
cargoes, on the aggregate, to the value of a million and
a half of dollars. The arrival of so many ships, placed
a large number of invalid seamen under the charge of
the consul, and many that had recovered, were standing
listlessly under the shade of the trees, while the situation
of the others must be wretched indeed, as there are no
comfortable accommodations for an invalid in Papeete,

24

278 TAHITI.

and the proper medical assistance cannot be obtained.

A few words respecting the establishment of our con-
sulates. At almost all foreign ports of any importance,
the government of the United States have appointed a
consul, whose duties I have specified in part, in a few
preceding remarks. The only remuneration that the
consul receives for his services, which often engage all
his time, and are attended with no slight degree of labor
and vexation, is in the way of perquisites, which are by
far too inadequate for his support in a respectable stand-
ing. He is therefore compelled to devise other methods
for procuring the means of subsistence, an alternative
reflecting great discredit upon a nation of such ample
resources, that the representative of their dignity should
be obliged to resort to commercial speculation through
the illiberality of his government, which places him in a
diminutive attitude, in the eyes of the people among
whom he is residing. If the importance of our com-
merce with any foreign port renders the appointment of
a consul desirable, his salary ought to be sufficiently
large, that he may not feel it necessary to neglect the in-
terests of his country, to attend to his own speculations ;
there are also many other reasons for rendering the con-
sulate independent of commercial transactions.

All the foreign residents — not a very numerous class — I
united in representing Tahiti as one of the most unde-
sirable countries to inhabit in the world. They told me,
that they could hardly get anything for their tables ex-
cept, fruit and vegetables, and frequently when they had
invited gentlemen to dine with them, they had the
mortification of sitting down to empty dishes. This
is not the case at Honolulu ; and although the barren
aspect of Oahu is strongly in contrast with the brilliant
verdure of Tahiti, and although, the natives of thatj

DISASTER AT TONGATABU. 279

island are held under a far more despotic vassalage than
they are here, yet their energy and industry generally
insures an abundance of everything to the purchaser.

Friday, September 11. The brig "Camden," belong-
ing to the London Missionary Society, and placed at the
disposal of the missionaries upon Tahiti and the adja-
cent islands, came to anchor this morning in the bay.
The intelligence she brought was of a highly interest-
ing character to the foreign residents. The " Favorite,"
an English sloop of war, was lying at anchor at the
island of Tongatabu, one of the Friendly islands, to the
westward of this group, at a time, when the natives
were divided into two parties, those that favored the
Christian religion, and the adherents of the ancient sys-
tem of idolatry, who maintained the most violent ani-
mosities between themselves. The Captain of the " Fa-
vorite" endeavored to reconcile them, and upon a certain
occasion, landed with a party of men from his ship, under
arms, to act as mediator between the opposite factions.
In this character, he assumed arbitrary powers, in virtue
of which, he marched to a fort where the heathen party
had intrenched themselves, and urged them to sur-
render; and upon their refusal, he made an attack
upon the fort, at the very commencement of which, he
fell dead with two of his men, and not long afterwards,
the rest retreated, carrying off the bodies of the killed,
together with eighteen of their number that were despe-
rately wounded. This interference was entirely Unwar-
ranted, and the British Government will not probably
retaliate. Its disastrous result teaches the necessity of
extreme caution in all transactions with the rude natives
of Polynesia.

CHAPTER XXIII.

TAHITI.

dlfferelsxe of tuvie — natives — queen pomare — pomare-tane
— Tahittan soldiers — Display — Church — Palace — Seamen's

September 30. Once more upon the main we are
ploughing our way over its fathomless depths. Mean-
while, I return to Tahiti, to narrate what passed before
me, subsequent to my preceding date.

The reckoning of time at Tahiti is one day in advance
of what obtains at the Hawaiian islands, which was de-
rived from those who came from the United States by
the way of Cape Horn. The missionary operations up-
on this and the adjacent islands, were commenced not
far from the beginning of the present century, by mission-
aries sent oat from England, under the auspices of the
London Missionary Society, and their labors have been
continued, without interruption ever since, a period of
forty years. In their passage to these islands, they sailed
eastward around Cape of Good Hope, and passed over
about 210° difference of longitude, or more than half the
circumference of the globe. Hence their computation of
time must be in advance of that adopted by the Hawaiian
missionaries, who lost time by sailing westward ; and of
course, Saturday with us on board the Flora correspond-
ed with the Sabbath on shore.

NATIVES. 281

An incident occurred upon our arrival at Honolulu,
which illustrates the difference in time produced by
sailing in opposite directions. While the North Amer-
ica, was lying outside the harbor, an English ship
came to anchor close by us, and the next day, which
was Saturday with us, we observed that every thing
was perfectly quiet on board, but on the following day,
as we were putting off from the North America to go
to church, all hands were in motion aboard our neigh-
bor, some in hanging stagings over her side, from which
to paint the ship, while a line of men was extended
upon the maintopsail yard, engaged in " bending " a new
maintopsail. This unusual activity was at first supposed
an intended desecration of the day, but we afterwards
ascertained, that they had come around Cape of Good
Hope, and consequently, that our Sabbath was Monday
with them.

About nine o'clock, A. M., Queen Pomare, was seen
moving in state along the beach, escorted by her body
guards, numbering over a hundred, who, at the distance
we viewed them, presented a very imposing pageant.
Before the procession, were borne the royal standards of
Tahiti, red, white and red, in horizontal bars; then
followed the queen and king, and after them, their dash-
ing soldiery two by two, "in proportione perturbata," as
the geometricians say. The rear was brought up by all
who could make any pretensions to decency of appear-
ance, the whole procession extending to a great distance
along the beach, and in this order moving slowly along
towards the church. Soon after they had passed, Cap-
tain Spring and I directed our steps thither, and entered
a large thatched building situated upon the beach within
a few yards of the water. The body of the church was
occupied by the queen and the military, and the galleries

24*

282 TAHITI.

principally by women. We took seats near the pulpit
in full view of her majesty and her retinue. Queen
Pomare is a good looking woman, of a light olive com-
plexion, with very dark expressive eyes, and black hair.
In person, she is about the medium height, and is rather
inclined to embonpoint, and as she stood up several
times during the service, she rose with an air of dignity
that was truly royal. She wore a white satin hat,
flaring open and flattened upon the upper rim, after the
Tahitian style, trimmed with broad satin ribbon and then
surmounted by three white ostrich feathers. Her dress
was of satin or figured silk, of a pink color, with slippers
to correspond. The husband of the queen, Pomare-tanc,
" Pomare's-man" as he is usually called, sustains the rela-
tion of a prince Albert to the government. He is a young
man, of about twenty one years of age, while her majesty
is not far from thirty, a disparity on the side of the lady,
highly averse to our notions of propriety. In the affairs
of the government, he has no power, as he was an infe-
rior chief before his marriage with Pomare, but in do-
mestic matters, is very tenacious of his rights. Pomare-
tane is a good looking man, with very much of the bon
vivant in his appearance, and an easy good humored
way about him. Although so young, his hair is very
grey, an indication of age, prematurely developed I doubt
not, by the repeated floggings he received from her
majesty many years since, when he was but a mere boy ;
occurrences entirely contrary to the order of nature.
Pomare-tane. however, was very restive under her author-
ity, and stimulated by the foreigners, had many desper-
ate contests with his spouse, until she was compelled to
succumb to his superior prowess. Since then, if reports
speak true, he has not only administered wholesome
chastisement for offences coming under his immedia

■

(iUEEN POM ARE. 283

supervision, but repays with compound interest, her
maternal care over him in his boyish days. Invested
in a brilliant crimson uniform, decked with gold epau-
lets, a sword at his side and his chapeau surmounted by
white ostrich feathers, his majesty presented a highly
imposing appearance. It would have been a matter of
deep envy to all hen-pecked husbands, acquainted with
the past history of his household, to have witnessed with
what utter nonchalance his majesty attended his royal
spouse, appearing entirely regardless of her presence.

The officers of the royal household, eight or ten in
number perhaps, were dressed in uniforms, but of various
colors and fashions, which had been adopted, as chance,
or the visit of some man of war, gave them an opportu-
nity for purchasing. White pantaloons were indulged
in by all, but the state of them indicated either a ludi-
crous deficiency of material, or a peculiar taste for imita-
ting small clothes, which they were essentially, as far as
regards dimensions. One or two of these worthies wore
a pair of stockings, but most of them inserted their feet
into thick leather boxes, without any intervening obsta-
cle. The garb of one of these gentleman struck me as
entirely anomalous. It consisted of a clergyman's black
coat, of a most peaceful character, transmuted into the
" horrid aspect of war," by means of sundry red stripes
about half an inch wide bounding the outline of the coat,
around which was buckled a bright red sword belt, a
combination of colors that was quite enchanting. The
officers of the queen's guards are undoubtedly the high-
est chiefs of the nation, no very illustrious personages,
one would infer from the fact, that they have been seen
paddling off to a man-of-war, with nothing but a maro
around the waist, to solicit the privilege of washing the
clothes of any one who would favor them with his pat-

284 TAHITI.

ronage, from the officer who promenaded the quarter
deck, down to jack before the mast. These are speci-
mens of much of the nobility of the Pacific Islands.
Behind the officers were seated the privates, with an
approach towards similarity in their uniforms, which
were blue, and at a distance, would have appeared very
well, but whose diversity of trimming was revealed by
our proximity. Some of these coats were buttoned
together ; others had fastenings of hooks and eyes, and
not a few, were held together by the ingenious device of
drawing a threaded needle from side to side, which from
appearances, must have taken wonderful strides in many
instances. The nether garments of the soldiery, were
always white, but in many instances, prepared without
observing this invariable law of nature, that a large man
requires garments of corresponding proportions. The
ingenuity one of these displayed in devising expedients
was highly creditable to him. By some miscalculation,
his coat and pantaloons, when adjusted to his person,
were found not to be within six inches of one another,
which disclosed a "hiatus valde deflendus," between
the top of his nether garments, and the edge of his coat.
In this crisis, he had procured a large black silk necker-
chief, which encircling his waist, and secured in a huge
knot in front, effectually concealed the unskil fulness of
his tailor. The soldiers, agreeably to the advice of the
missionaries, leave their muskets at their quarters, upon
the Sabbath, and carry nothing but ramrods. Their
principal employment, as well as that of their officers,
appeared to be in criticising and admiring the peculiar
taste each one had displayed, in the decoration of his
uniform. Queen Pomare seemed to be extremely
anxious to exhibit her soldiery advantageously, and
many were the searching looks she darted in among

aUEEN POMARE. 285

them, to see if any were indulging in their propensity to
avail themselves of the occasion, for repose. The con-
gregation was rather disorderly, owing to the constant
restlessness of some, who were running in and out of
the church every few minutes. Tahitians are extremely
fond of dress and show, and although the maintenance
of one hundred and fifty men — of which the royal body
guard consists — is impoverishing the nation, yet they
are not discontended, as their ruling passion is gratified.
The queen is constantly endeavoring to augment the
grandeur of her appearance, much to the injury of the
finances of her government, and notwithstanding the
heavy expense she incurred in the equipment of this
body of men, she has sent orders to Sydney, in New
Holland, for additional articles. Her principal object at
present, in collecting together, and keeping under arms
so large a body of men — large in proportion to the popu-
lation—is for the purpose of making a grand display in
an intended excursion to some of the leeward islands,
which has been determined upon every few days for the
last six weeks, and as often postponed. Several days
after seeing her at church, we were alarmed on board
the Flora, by the discharge of artillery at intervals of
every few minutes, the rolling drums, and the gathering
of a dense throng of natives upon the beach, in gay cos-
tumes. The three or four small vessels, belonging to
her majesty, were crowded to overflowing, the sails were
hoisted, and the national colors were gaily waving
from masthead, when an unlooked for obstacle presented
itself, which put a stop to all further proceedings. In
the eagerness for commencing the excursion, the idea
did not occur that these little vessels might not possess
sufficiently ample dimensions for the large retinue that
were to attend her majesty, and it was not until it was

286 T A II I T I .

demonstrated, in the present instance, that the fact was
apparent, and the expedition was, of necessity, postponed,
much to the chagrin of her majesty. So desirous is she
of making a constant display, that she never appears in
public, without being followed by half a dozen soldiers,
who step with a becoming consciousness of their proxim-
ity to royalty. On a subsequent day, when she was
returning to Papeete from a visit to point Venus, the
attempt at magnificence had a semblance of the ludicrous.
As soon as the royal barge — in this case, a whaleboat,
was seen entering the bay, with the national ensign
waving proudly over her Tahitian majesty, a salute was
fired by one of her loyal subjects, who was stationed
upon the beach with a musket in his hand, which he
continued to load and discharge with as much rapidity
as possible, until her majesty reached the shore, exhibit-
ing the most praiseworthy zeal upon the occasion.
Pomare is a constant attendant upon church, but is
scrupulously careful to appear in the afternoon, in a
different dress from the one she assumed in the morning.
This is however, the prevailing fashion among the elite
of Tahiti, in which respect, they imitate the fashionables
at some of our watering places, whose constant study, in
some instances, appears to be, the acquisition of the
cameleon-like property, of changing the hue of their
garb every time they appear in public. The Tahitians
are a finer looking race than the Hawaiians ; for their
features are more regular and their complexion is of a
lighter shade of color. The men are generally tall and
well formed, and the women are many of them, very
pretty, with their long dark hair hanging gracefully over
their shoulders, relieved by some bright flower inter-
woven with their tresses; and my taste for the beautiful
was in no instance shocked with ugliness, as was fre-

TAHITIAN SOLDIERS. 287

quently the case at the Hawaiian islands. It is as-
tonishing at what an early age they arrive at maturi-
ty. I saw numbers of them afterwards, whose ages
were far from what I should have judged from their
appearance ; for they look older at thirteen, than Ame-
rican women do at the age of twenty-three or twenty-
five. At the church, the congregation was very well
dressed, and presented a neat appearance that was
highly creditable to them. The singing was very de-
lightful, although it was entirely unlike any thing I
have ever heard before. The Tahitians have such a
natural faculty for music, that they not only catch a
tune with readiness, but even adapt symphonious parts
to it ; and their voices blend together in a strange,
but agreeable harmony. The church is a large and
convenient edifice, and the rafters and frame work
supporting the roof are concealed in part, by orna-
mental matting extending ten or fifteen feet upwards
from the wall.

At the conclusion of the services, the soldiery were ex-
tended from the church door in two parallel rows, facing
inwards, between which the royal party marched to the
head of the column, and then led the way in solemn state,
along the beach, through the dust and over the stones,
shells and bones, strewn plentifully in their path, instead
of a direct course to the "palace" by a delightful road,
which led along under the cool bread-fruit^groves. This
preference had no other object than to present an impo-
sing pageant to the shipping at anchor in the harbor.

In company with a friend, I took a walk through the
lovely grove back of the beach, to the " palace," by which
appellation the queen's residence is known to the foreign
residents. It is the largest house in Papeete, though but

288 TAHITI.

one story high, running up in a peaked roof of thatch,
and having a wide piazza extending entirelyacross the
front. It is situated within an enclosure of green grass,
and presents a somewhat pretty appearance, although as
a royal residence it would be thought rather humble.
At the gate were lounging three sentinels, whose attitudes
indicated a judicious regard to their personal comfort.
As the royal cortege had not yet come in sight, we seat-
ed ourselves in the piazza to await its approach, and be-
fore long it was seen deploying through the trees. The
officers of the household came first, who separated at the
entrance, and walking in solemn style up to the door
step, faced inwards, with hats doffed, while Queen Po-
mare and Pomare-tane passed between them, and took
their seats in the piazza, as the soldiery were arranging
themselves in the form of a crescent upon the green
sward in front of us. Meanwhile I shook hands with
the king, with whom I had previously been made ac-
quainted, and was then presented to her Tahitian majes-
ty, by my friend. The « presentation" was divested of
any court formalities, and consisted in merely shaking
hands, and saying li Your honor boy," which is the ex-
act sound, when spoken rapidly, of the native salutation,
"iaoranaoe," or "peace be with you." Her majes-
ty was not very communicative, as all her attention was
absorbed in watching the movements of her guards, and
in refreshing herself with plentiful draughts from a co-
coanut which had been brought to her the moment
she arrived, while Pomare-tane produced some cigars,
and offering one to me, adjusted himself for smoking
with the utmost tranquility. In imitation of the
queen, I called for a cocoanut and refreshed myself
with its delicious beverage, entertaining the most be-

CHAPEL. 289

nevolent wishes for the prosperity of Her Tahiti an
Majesty.

The soldiers, as I have before said, were marshalling
themselves in a semicircle in front of the palace, to be
reviewed by the queen. At the word of command, they
succeeded in averting their faces, although some of them
manifested a strong indecision of mind, with regard to
those opposite positions of the body, " front" and " rear."
After going through the intricate maneuvres of present-
ing their faces and their backs to the royal vision, they
were dismissed, and my friend and I took our leave of
their majesties.

Feeling rather unwell, I went aboard the ship, and
did not attend service at the foreign chapel on that day,
but upon the succeeding Sabbath evening, I made my
way thither. The foreign chapel is a little wooden
building, painted white, and is situated close upon the
beach. It is not plastered within, and its general appear-
ance would remind one, of those rude edifices for wor-
ship found in some of the Southern and Western states
of the Union, of so dubious an aspect, that the traveller
is doubtful what may have been the original intentions
of the builders, whether they had a barn or a meeting-
house in contemplation, in their architectural designs.
The service was conducted by a Mr. Howe, no ways re-
markable, I should judge, except for his plump, John
Bull person, and for the use of the word "circumstan-
ces," which recurred not less than forty or fifty times,
during the varied performances. The hymns were sung
in that primitive style, which obtained when hymn-
books were a rarity, the preacher reading two lines to be
sung by the congregation, and then two more, and so on
through the hymn. The music was tolerably good, but

as

290 TAHITI.

widely different in style from our own church music,
the general tenor of which is more plaintive and pos-
sesses a higher degree of sentiment than theirs^
which is more rapid, but less expressive. Upon the
whole, I was well pleased with the exercises, and the
audience appeared to be so, by the attention they
manifested.

CHAPTER XXIV.

TAHITI.

Police — Coral — Fishing by Torchlight — Diseases — Annoyances
— Moonlight at Papeete — Shaving the head — Native costume
— Novel engineering — Climbing the Cocoanut tree.

The principal power of the nation is vested in seven
judges, who constitute a supreme court of appeal, and, I
have been informed, have even power enough to try the
king and queen for criminal offences. Next to these are
the police officers, a numerous class, whose particular
province it is to make domiciliary visits to check the er-
ratic propensities of the natives during the night. They
are pronounced to be a band of great rascals, as well as
the patrol, a gang of night walkers who wander about
Papeete, and catch up any unlucky wight they may hap-
pen to come across, and convey him to the guard house
for the night. A gun is fired at eight o'clock, and anoth-
er follows at a quarter of an hour afterwards, when these
desperadoes sally forth in different directions with all
avidity for their prey. If any of them are successful a
shrill whistle is heard, at which they gather around the
captive, and he is walked off into durance vile, the pa-
trol keeping step in regular cadence. The next morn-
ing, the prisoner is informed in the most delicate man-
ner, that wayfaring men cannot be sought after so dili-
gently, and provided with a night's lodging without ade-
quate compensation, two dollars, for instance. The pe-

292 TAHITI.

culiar tramp of the gang along the beach, and the hissing
" whish — whish !" which accompanied their step, always
informed us aboard the Flora, that a prisoner was under
conveyance to his quarters. This order of police was
instituted a short time since, to prevent the nocturnal sal-
lies of seamen from the ships, but these zealous execu-
tors of the law, find it very difficult to discriminate. Not-
withstanding their enthusiasm, which induces them to
adopt too strict a construction of the law, in many in-
stances, these worthy citizens have accomplished some
good in the purification of public morals.

The language of the Tahitians is similar to the Ha-
waiian, and many words are the same in both — a most
remarkable circumstance when it is recollected that Ta-
hiti and the Hawaiian islands are about two thousand
three hundred miles apart. Similarity of language
among the various islanders of Polynesia, has given rise
to many interesting speculations relating to the exist-
ence upon islands so widely remote from one another of
different people having a common origin.

At the head of the bay, the water is shallow, close in
shore, and so clear that the beautiful coral trees growing
upon the bottom, were distinctly seen. The corals and
madripores are of every variety of form and color, and
some of them are extremely beautiful. I often amused
myself by stopping in the boat over these fantastic for-
ests, and hooking up as many specimens of coral as I
could take care of. Some of them resembled blown
sugar in appearance and structure, and were tinged with
many exquisite hues of green, red and purple. There
were also many varieties of fish to diversify the picture ;
the most numerous, were little fish about an inch long,
of a splendid blue tint, that seemed like sapphires flitting
about in the coraline forest below.

FISHING. 293

There are but few canoes at Papeete, and these are
long, misshapen things, and, except in size, far inferior to
the canoes of the Hawaiian Islands. Some of them
were large, carrying huge sails made of mats, which
would instantly have upset them, did not those who
were navigating them, stretch themselves far out upon
the outriggers of their frail craft, which are impelled
forwards with great velocity, dashing the spray high
into the air. The natives carry on their fishing opera-
tions principally by torchlight, and every evening, soon
after dark, bright lights were seen gleaming over the
glassy surface of the bay, occasionally shooting out
brilliant scintillations, that disclosed more vividly the
dark figures of the natives in their canoes. Sometimes
they were ranged in a long line not far from the reef;
and then they dispersed, gliding noiselessly with their
glaring torches. Each canoe usually contained two
men, one to direct its movements, and the other, who
stood in the bow, to carry the torch, by which the fish
were attracted to the surface of the water, and were then
struck by the spear which was darted with unerring
aim. They sometimes came close up to the ship, and I
saw several fish with bright silvery sides, taken in this
way. This sport they continue to a late hour of the
night, and are generally successful, but they very rarely
offer their fish for sale at the residences of the foreigners,
who consider them highly delicious. Two of our pas-
sengers, the day before we sailed from Papeete, partook
freely of some fine fish at the house of one of the foreign
residents, and a few hours afterwards, were seized with
excruciating pain and distress, accompanied with deadly
nausea. The attack continued for two or three hours,
with scarcely any alleviation, and then passed off grad-
ually, leaving them very much debilitated. Of those

25*

W
I

£94 TAHITI.

who partook of the fish, none beside these were unpleas-
antly affected, and the conclusion was, that the poison-
ous properties of the fish resided in some particular part,
which was eaten by the sufferers. Such attacks are very
common among the natives, and are analogous to those
that occurred on board the Flora, in her passage
down from Honolulu, with the exception of nausea
which was not present in the latter. There is a singular
relationship subsisting among the Tahitians, called
" Friends," which implies that individuals, whether of
the same or the opposite sex, conceiving a fancy for one
another, unite in a covenant of inviolable friendship,
which requires either party to assist the other in all
emergencies, and to be faithful to his interests. This
obligation also involves the necessity of frequent presents,
a source of great annoyance to the foreign residents,
happening to have a " friend," who has no hesitation in
signifying his desire to possess any article belonging to
the other that he may fancy, an appeal which must be
complied with, by every law of politeness existing
among them.

Scrofulous complaints are very prevalent among
those that live on the island of Tahiti, both foreigners
and natives. I saw several instances of large tumors
upon the neck, and heard of many cases of those who
were reduced to the last stages of misery by these terrible
deformities. A gentleman expressed his opinion, that
these glandular disorders were undoubtedly to be attrib-
uted to the peculiar nature of the water in the rills
descending the mountains, a cause analogous to what
I have somewhere read, as assigned for the prevalence
of similar disorders among the mountains of Switzerland.
The elephantiasis, a most singular deformity, bloating
up the muscles of the limbs to twice their ordinary size,

PAPEETE BAY. 295

is no uncommon disease. An instance came under my
observation, of a man whose lower limbs were swollen
to prodigious dimensions, so that he presented a most
uncouth figure, particularly in walking. It is rarely
painful, but the deformity of the appearance, and the
task of transporting such a mass of superfluous matter,
must be highly afflictive to the sufferer.

Our original intention in stopping at Tahiti, was to
land one or two of our passengers with their effects, and
then to put to sea as soon as possible, after procuring
supplies of various kinds. But instead of being detained
but a day or two, we did not get away from Papeete in
less than two weeks, Captain S. having determined to
take aboard the Flora, the oil belonging to the Alex-
ander Mansfield. Meanwhile, all the passengers, took
up their residence on shore, wherever they could find
accommodations, except myself, who paid dearly for my
preference of the ship. We then hauled up alongside
the dismantled whaler, within a few rods of shore, to
receive her cargo, consisting of a thousand barrels of oil.

Papeete bay is on the lee side of Tahiti, as I before
observed, and the lofty mountains that rise in the back
ground, almost entirely interrupt the cool trade wind
which is so grateful in the tropics, and the sun beats
down in all his intensity upon the shipping in the bay,
although on shore, the temperature is very agreeable in
the shady bread-fruit groves. On board the Flora, the
refreshing sea breeze, blowing in from the westward, was
intercepted by the cook's galley and the long boat, so
that scarcely a breath of air mitigated the scorching
heat that pervaded the quarter deck. The thermometer,
suspended in the companion way, stood as high as 98°,
and the deck became heated to such a degree, that the
temperature of the cabin was like that of a furnace.

296 TAHITI.

Besides this burning heat that was almost suffocating,
swarms of venomous musquitoes harassed me during the
night with their stings and incessant buzzing, so that my
anticipations of spending the night, were deplorable
enough. To give some idea of their number, I will just
mention what destruction ensued among them at our
vengeful hands. Captain S., killed over a hundred in
one day, and I destroyed so many that I lost my reckon-
ing of them altogether. Their virulence was as remark-
able as their numbers, for while we were congratulating
ourselves upon their having taken their flight from not
having heard them for some time, they would suddenly
"start up like hydras from every corner," and attack us
with a perseverance and determination that made us
desperate. To escape the intense heat on board ship, I
rambled among the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut groves,
whose cool shades were most delightfully reviving.
Most of my walks were taken very early in the morning,
before the sun was up, and nothing could be more
refreshing, after the adventures of the night, than a
ramble among these cool groves, shaded with the dark
broad leaves of the bread-fruit tree, or the waving cocoa-
nut, and varied by the orange and lime with their rich
yellow fruit, and the bright green of the banana. The
stillness of the hour, the invigorating air, and the merry
notes of the birds, impressed me with the liveliest emo-
tions of pleasure. But after the sun had set beyond the
mountain peaks of Eimeo, and the fair moon,

11 Apparent queen, unveiled her peerless light,
And o'er the dark her silvery mantle threw,"

a scene of enchantment bursts upon the view, such as
one's early imagination may have pictured to himself,
while roaming in fancy to the fairy isles of the Pacific
The moon rising from the dark mountains above, wit

'

THE NATIVES. 297

a brilliancy unknown without the tropics, tinges the
prominent trees of the groves, and brings their outline
vividly to view, deepening their shades, and giving to the
cocoa-nut trees a strangely fantastic appearanee. The
still waters of the bay reflect her beams from its glassy
surface, in which, along the well defined margin of the
shore, the tall trees are seen depicted with the vividness
of magic. The fisherman's torch, gliding slowly along,
seems to struggle with her overpowering beams, and as
she mounts towards the zenith, she pours in a flood of
mellow light upon the ocean that sullenly roars upon
the reef without, and upon the silent earth, tinging the
dark grove, and gentle hillock, and tall mountain peaks,
and rendering all nature a fairy scene. From the shore
too, we were charmed with the singing of the natives,
which rose upon the still evening air with a harmony
like soft voices mingling in perfect concert with instru-
mental music. The singing of the natives has a slight
nasal twang, that gives it a sound similar to instru-
mental music, and their voices chord together in a har-
mony unlike any thing I have ever heard before. In
this respect, the Tahitians far surpass the Hawaiians,
whose monotonous cadences, as they passed my room
at Honolulu, were very annoying. Many of the Tahi-
tian tunes are variations of old tunes familiar with us*
" God save the King," and a sacred tune called " Cam-
bridge," were readily recognized ; and there were several
others, which I found were old acquaintances. I often
wished that some of my friends in the United States
could have been transported to Papeete during those
glorious evenings, which presented a picture of varied
beauties, the tout ensemble approaching nearer to a scene
of enchantment, than any thing I have ever before wit-
nessed, even among the verdant lawns and majestic

298 TAHITI.

elms, of loved New Haven. The foreign residents at
Papeete are very hospitable, with but few exceptions,
and give you carte blanche to all they have. There are
but few national animosities indulged in, such as are too
prevalent at Honolulu. Their interests also, are an ar-
gument for unanimity, to present a formidable obstacle
to the capricious disposition of the government. They
are all united in representing the native character, as the
worst that can be imagined ; but many of them are not
very solicitous about improving it, as far as my observa-
tion extended. There are, doubtless, many natives of
unexceptionable moral character, and many, it is to be
hoped, that are truly pious people, but the tide of moral-
ity is at a very low ebb at Papeete.

The Tahitians, with many other islanders of the Pa-
cific, have a very singular fashion of shaving their heads
close to the skin, with the exception of a bushy lock just
above their ears. At Tahiti, before razors came into gen-
eral use, it was customary to perform this operation with
shark's teeth, an extremely painful process ; and in many of
the other islands of the Pacific, the practice is still continu-
ed. I could hardly discover any reason for this singular
practice, especially as most of them go bareheaded, exposing
their unprotected craniums to the intense heat of the sun.
Fashion is apt to be irrespective of comfort; but the Tahi-
tian is not at all more ridiculous in his compliance wit!
the fashions of his country, than are its votaries in more
enlightened society, whose limping gait in one instance,
and impeded respiration in another, betray the penaltie
they are inflicting upon themselves for their subserviene
to its dictates. Besides, as a matter of taste, shaving the
face is no greater improvement upon nature, that I a.
perceive, than shaving the head. Many of the customs
of our own country would appear ridiculous to one who

NATIVE COSTUME. 299

had never been acquainted with them, if analyzed by a
process that would very naturally occur to his mind.

In the groves, I have occasionally fallen in with Ta-
hitians that were at work, and had laid their garments
aside, displaying very beautiful and tasteful figures tat-
tood all over their persons, which consisted of every vari-
ety of curve, as well as of sprigs and branches of trees,
and of flowers and animals. While at the Hawaiian
islands, I saw some instances of tattooing, but it was ve-
ry limited and not remarkably pretty. The women in
general were slightly tattood around the ankle, as a sub-
stitute for open-worked hosiery. At Honolulu, I saw
several Marquesas Islanders, whose faces were tattood
in every imaginable curve, which gave their faces a
most grotesque expression.

The costume of the Tahitians consists of a kind of
mantle which covers the upper part of the person, and
reaches do a n to the parao, a piece of cloth about two
yards long, which is wound around the waist, and ex-
tends just below the knees. The parao is also worn by
the other sex, but is concealed by the long gown that
constitutes the female costume. The men as would
readily be supposed, have a very singular aspect, with
their calico paraos waving in the wind and giving to
them a most unmasculine appearance. A naked Tahi-
tian is a very rare object, and in this respect they are far
superior to their brethren of the Hawaiian islands, among
whom, specimens of the " human form divine," may be
seen moving about in every direction with nothing but
the maro to conceal the contour of their figures. If
the taste of the Hawaiians is less sensitive, however,
than that of the Tahitians, they have the advantage in
energy and industry, over their petticoated neighbors.

One afternoon while I was aboard the ship, I witness-

300 TAHITI.

ed a novel exhibition of mechanical power. Within a
small enclosure upon the beach, but a few rods off, a
dense throng of natives had been engaged in warm dis-
cussion, as we judged by the animation of their tones,
when all of them, to the number of several hundreds,
proceeded en masse to a short distance above where we
lay, and then another eloquent discussion ensued, which
we supposed from the vehemence of their actions, in-
volved the consideration of some affair of vital import-
ance to the existence of the nation. The populace seem-
ed to be upon the eve of insurrection, in which they
were about to inflict summary vengeance upon an offend-
er ; and the idle curiosity with which we first watched
their movements, assumed a deeper interest, as we saw
them gathering with violent gesticulations, around a stout
framework constructed like a gallows, and we looked ea-
gerly in the expectation of seeing the culprit dragged
from the throng, and condemned to instant execution.
In an hour or more, our doubts and apprehensions were
removed, and the agitation with which we viewed the
scene, subsided. But neither the shedding of blood, nor
violence of any kind was in contemplation, but the re-
moval of a large log. which lay at the water's edge, was
determined upon. To one end of this, a strong hawser
was secured, and then two or three hundred of them ea-
gerly seized hold of it, and prepared to drag it along the
beach to the place of its destination. The arrangements
were made with loud vociferations, and when everything
was ready, with three loud cheers that resounded simul-
taneously throughout the multitude, the log was started
from its repose, and moved slowly along the beach, the
throng keeping time with a regular cadence of their feet,
and with a loud hissing sound like « whish— whish !"
bursting forth from the crov/d at short intervals. The

NOVEL ENGINEERING. 301

procession was directed by four marshals, who ran up
and down the lines in the most enthusiastic manner,
stimulating them with the poles they carried by right of
office ; while the fair Tahitian ladies, attired in their gay-
est robes, with their long dark tresses decked with bright
flowers, and their brilliant eyes flashing with animation
at the sight, inspired the young men to valorous deeds.
The distance to the place where the log was deposited,
was rather more than a quarter of a mile, and when I
considered the peculiar mode they had adopted for re-
moving logs, I was at no loss in accounting for their ve-
hement and protracted debate upon the occasion. It was
a method, I confess, which would not readily have oc-
curred to any one's mind. A plan, more naturally sug-
gesting itself, would be to have employed rollers, or better
still, the log might have been floated to any required place
along the beach. This incident exhibits the eloquence
of language and of gesticulation which the Polynesian
islanders throw into every thing that interests them,
compared with which our conduct appears tame and
phlegmatic.

In one of my morning walks, I had a fine opportunity
of witnessing the method pursued by the natives in
climbing the cocoanut tree, which, as I have before ob-
served, runs up in a branchless and leafless trunk to the
height of fifty or sixty feet, at the very top of which it
is crowned with broad waving leaves, among which the
fruit is found adhering to the trunk. The loftiness of
these trees, whose branchless aspect makes their ascent
appear impracticable to a novice, was evidently intended
by nature as a stimulus to the sluggish natives of tropi-
cal climates, where she has displayed herself with a lux-
uriance that calls for but little exertion to obtain the
means of subsistence. Desirous of obtaining a fine

26

302

TAHITI

bunch of cocoanuts thai were growing upon the summit
of one of the loftiest of these trees, I succeeded in coming
to terms with the owner of them, after a protracted dis-
cussion upon the terms of the agreement. The natives
of Polynesia never transact any business, however un-
important, without having canvassed the subject to the
utmost extent of which it is susceptible, and the plan ot
proceedings is definitely settled, when nothing more
whatsoever can be said to elucidate the subject. In this
respect they resemble many of our legislators, who are
frequently not contented with the discusson of a question,
however unimportant in its bearing, until the impossi-
bility of advancing any thing more, compels them to put
a period to their eloquence, after consuming much more
time than the importance of the subject ought to require.
The necessary stipulations being made with the own-
er of the cocoanuts, a long line is produced, with which,
a boy, having his feet fettered with a short rope, so that
they are twelve or fourteen inches apart, commences
ascending the tree. Pressing his feet against the trunk,
the friction of the rope gives him a good foothold, while
with his hands clasped together around the body of the
tree, he vaults upwards with surprising agility, and dis-
engages the nuts with a hatchet, which he carries up
with him, and lowers them down with the rope. There
were eight or ten nuts in the bunch, for which I paid but
twenty-five cents, a sum I would willingly have given,
to have witnessed the activity of the native in the ascent
of the tree.

CHAPTER XXV.

TAHITI.

Fruits — Cocoanut oil — Sugar — Guava — Breadfruit — Tide.

Tahiti produces all the fruits of a tropical climate, in
the utmost abundance and luxuriance of growth. Oran-
ges of the most delicious quality, are sold in immense
quantities, at the rate of fifty cents per hundred. They
are prepared so as to keep for a long time without decay
by selecting them with care and drying them in the sun,
which partially evaporates the moisture of the rind, with-
out impairing the juices of the orange. The pine apples
of Tahiti are excellent, but by no means equal to those
we procured at Tacames, while I was in the North
America. Lemons attain a very large size, and are en-
cased in a thick rind, and lime trees are so numerous
and prolific, that hardly a ship touches here without pur-
chasing a quantity of lime juice, prepared by fermenting
it with chalk, which removes the impurities, and enables
it to keep in excellent preservation for years. Whalers,
visiting Papeete, usually purchase a barrel or more ot
this article, whose anti-scorbutic properties are well
known, for the benefit of their crews during their long
voyages. The purchaser must have a sharp eye to his
own interest, for the sagacity of the natives teaches them

304 TAHITI.

that when a barrel is half full of water, only half as
much lime juice is required to fill it, as if the barrel were
empty. The citron flourishes extensively upon these
islands, and is similar in appearance to a lemon, with
an extremely thick rind, which is the only part appro-
priated to preserving. The East India citron, such as
is found in our markets, is superior however, in all re-
spects. The vi is a rough tree, in aspect somewhat like
the oak, and sometimes grows to a great size, sending
out numerous excrescences from its trunk. The fruit
very nearly resembles our egg-plumb in its appearance.
Of the banana and plantain family, there are numerous
varieties. They are sometimes prepared for preserving
by cutting them into slices, and drying them in the sun,
which covers them with saccharine matter drawn out by
the heat. There is a variety of banana or plantain, call-
ed the fei ("fayee") or mountain banana, growing wild
in the mountains and highlands, and very dissimilar to
the other kinds except in shape. It rises upward from
the stalk, instead of depending downwards from it, as is
the case in the other kinds, and its color is of a bright
chrome yellow, with a rind of a brilliant red tint. The
taste of the boiled fei, reminds one of our parsnips ; but
it is unfit to be eaten raw, and I thought it inferior to the
other varieties of the banana. The taro thrives luxuri-
antly upon all these islands, and consists of two varieties
one of which requires a low, marshy, watery soil, and
the other grows upon dryer ground. Poi is not so fa-
vorite an article of food with the Tahitians as with the
Hawaiians, among whom poi and fish are almost the on-
ly articles of subsistence. The former, however, prepare
a delicious compound of taro, cocoanut, and bread-fruit
called poi-poij and another made of feis, taro, bread-fruit
and cocoanut, called poi-maia: both of which have a v<

1

COCOANUT OIL. 305

ry rich and agreeable flavor. The cocoanut grows in
immense quantities upon Tahiti and the adjacent islands.
The natives almost always take the nuts from the trees
for eating, when they are yet green, at a period of ad-
vancement, when the kernel is in the incipient state ot
pulp, and the shell very soft. In this state, they can be
eaten with a spoon, and contain from a pint to a quart of
slightly acidulous, and most refreshing beverage. So
plentiful are cocoanuts, that 1 saw canoes every day, la-
den down the water's edge with them, traversing the bay,
and the established price was one dollar per hundred.
They were old cocoanuts, however, and the principal
use to which they were applied, was in obtaining oil from
them. For this purpose, the kernel is chopped up into
fine pieces, and placed* in a trough, which is inclined
sufficiently for the oil, when expelled by the heat of the
sun, to trickle down into a reservoir. This oil is used
very extensively in the manufacture of soap, and for lu-
bricating machinery, as well as for other purposes. Its
value in the manufacture of soap, can hardly be appre-
ciated by people in the United States, among whom, a
large proportion of meat in their diet, supplies the soap
dealer with soap-grease in abundance. Throughout the
Pacific, soap is usually a great desideratum ; for the food
of the natives, consisting principally, of fish and vegeta-
bles, affords them nothing out of which to make this es-
sential article of domestic economy. The greater part of
the cocoanut oil, is exported to Sydney, in New Holland,
where it is applied to various purposes of the arts. A
few years since, the annual manufacture of cocoanut oil
exceeded one hundred tons, which was generally sold to
foreigners in small parcels by the natives, in exchange
for articles of merchandize. Now, scarcely any is pre-
pared from the immense quantities of cocoanuts that fall

26*

306 TAHITI.

from the trees, owing to an arbitrary enactment of the
government which forbids the natives selling any nuts
or oil to foreigners, unless upon receiving a stipulated
amount of merchandize for a certain quantity of oil or
nuts. The consequence is, that merchants finding the
exchange to be unprofitable to themselves refuse to
purchase, and thus the preparation of the oil is stopped.

There are several sugar plantations upon these islands,
and the culture of the cane is rapidly extending from
year to year. The sugar is of excellent quality, though
it is damp, the process of drying, after granulating, not
being well understood. During the past year, there
were one hundred and seventy-four tons manufactured
upon Tahiti, by the natives, and by the foreign residents ;
but in the manufacture of this article, the Tahitians are
far behind their brethren of the north Pacific, as they
are indeed in almost every thing else. The sugar and
molasses on board the " Flora," amounting to one hun-
dred tons of sugar, and eighty casks of molasses — came
from the island of Kauai, and is but a portion of what
was manufactured upon that island. There are besides, ex-
tensive cane fields upon the other islands of the Hawaiian
group. The sugar of the Hawaiian islands is very well
manufactured, and is put up in bags woven out of rushes
by the natives, each of them containing from fifty to seven-
ty pounds. This sugar has almost as many gradations in
in hue as there are shades of color in the human race.
There is the clayed sugar, similar to the white Havana ;
then come light brown, brown, browner, brownest, in a
long continued series, until you arrive at an opacity and
blackness of color, that would satisfy the most rigid
economist.

The guava is at once the bane and blessing of Tahiti.
That its prolific and erratic nature is rapidly usurping

GUAVA. 307

the verdure that once crowned this lovely isle, must be
apparent to the most careless observer, who has had op-
portunity to witness its intruding progress. The guava, of
which the world cannot present finer specimens, grows
upon a bush from six to twelve feet in height, which in
full bearing would forcibly remind one of the quinces of
New England. The fruit is about the size and shape ot
a quince, and is of a brilliant yellow color, shaded with a
carmine tinge. Within, there is a cavity, occupying half
the dimensions of the fruit, which is filled with number-
less seeds about the size of grape stones, held together by
a thick glutinous substance. The color of the interior
is of deep crimson, and the flavor of the fruit very closely
resembles that of the strawberry ; but like most tropical
fruits, it is rather unpalatable, upon tasting it for the first
time. So extremely abundant is the guava, that the
Tahitians allow their swine to roam at large, and grow
fat upon the fruit which lies neglected upon the ground ;
and the season when guavas are ripe, is hailed with a
most enthusiastic grunt of. thanksgiving from all expe-
rienced porkers, that have been dragging their emaciated
carcasses along the beach in eager anticipations of enjoy-
ing a glorious return, of what they have such pleasing
recollections. The rapid usurpation of the soil by the
guava, is indeed, a serious evil, but, as a gentleman
observed to me, the time will come, when the Tahi-
tians, alarmed at the prospect of destruction impending
over the island, if the guava obtains the ascendency,
will throw off their indolence, and extirpate it from their
soil. Thus, by rousing themselves to exertion against
the invader, they will have acquired a momentum in the
path of industry, which will not soon be stopped, so that
this evil will prove to be a blessing.

There are very few melons to be had at Tahiti, and

308 TAHITI.

culinary vegetables are rare, a scarcity severely felt by
the foreign residents. Sweet potatoes of the yellow
kind, are cultivated in sufficient quantities, but are far
inferior to those we had at Honolulu. The sweet pota-
toes ordered for the barque Flora, were unfortunately of
very diminutive proportions, and were traversed by little
veins of the bitterest substance imaginable, which was
owing to their having grown upon worn out land. Such
is their bitterness, that he who has been enjoying one of
these " roots," and any thing of the vegetable kind
becomes a luxury at sea — is suddenly brought to a dead
stand, while carrying on the process of mastication, and
by the most expressive contortions of his phiz, indicates
his unfortunate collision with these bitterest of bitter
things ; a striking emblem of the bitterness of disap-
pointed hopes.

But the noblest product of the vegetable kingdom,
which springing up spontaneously, affords the most
wholesome and palatable nutriment to the natives of the
tropical islands, is the majestic bread-fruit tree. " The
bread-fruit tree is large and umbrageous, with a rough
bark of a light color ; and the trunk is sometimes two or
three feet in diameter, rising to the height of twelve or
twenty feet without a branch. The outline of the tree
is remarkably beautiful ; the leaves are broad and in-
dented, somewhat like those of the fig tree, frequently
twelve or eighteen inches long, and rather thick, of a
dark green color, with a surface glossy as that of the
richest evergreen. The fruit is generally circular or
oval, and is on an average, six inches in diameter ; it is
covered with small square, or lozenge-shaped divisions,
having each a small elevation in the centre, and is at
first of a slight pea green color ; subsequently, it changes
to brown, and when fully ripe, assumes a rich yellow

BREAD FRUIT-

Society Islands

2i£/i of Eru&cvtf

BREAD-FRUIT. 309

tinge. It is attached to the small branches of the tree
by a short thick stalk, and hangs either singly, or in
clusters, of two or three together. The pulp is soft, and
in the centre, there is a hard kind of core, extending from
the stalk to the crown, around which a few imperfect
seeds are formed. There is nothing very pleasing in
the blossom ; but a stately tree clothed with dark shining
leaves, and loaded with many hundreds of large light
green or yellowish colored fruit, is one of the most
splendid and beautiful objects to be met with, among the
rich and diversified scenery of a Tahitian landscape."
The bread-fruit tree reminds one of the noble oaks we
have in the United States, with their deep green canopy
of glossy leaves, although its foliage is more dense than
that of the oak. The rind of the fruit is of a cellular
structure, having an exterior marked with pentagons and
hexagons, and other geometrical figures, of a more
interesting character than many that are pored over by
the student of geometry. The cellular structure of a
honey comb is perhaps the best illustration of the external

appearance of the bread flrilll. Upon dissection, VOU find

an elongated core, of a brownish color, with delicate
fibres radiating in every direction towards the rind.
When the fruit has attained perfect ripeness upon the
tree, it is of a pulpy nature, of which the natives prepare
a fermented beverage, that they are very fond of, although
it produces violent pains in every limb, particularly in
the morning. The fruit is usually plucked from the
tree, before it is fully ripe, and then its internal aspect is
like that of a slightly wilted turnip. To exhibit its
qualities in perfection, it must be baked under ground in
the native style, and is then far preferable to being baked
in the ovens of foreigners. Prepared in this way, it is
of a pure white, mealy appearance, reminding one most

310 TAHITI.

strongly of the richest boiled chestnut, more nearly than
any thing else occurring to my mind. While we lay at
Tahiti. I acquired a very great fondness for the bread-
fruit, which seemed to me the most delightful esculent I
had ever tasted.

The native style of preparing the bread-fruit, is similar
to their method of cooking meats of various kinds. A
swine that is to be cooked whole, is carefully cleansed,
and then instead of the aromatics, which our experienced
cook would introduce within his carcass, he receives a
stuffing of hot stones, whose effect is accelerated by his
swineship being carefully laid upon a bed of red hot
stones in a cavity in the ground. Some broad leaves are
then spread over him, with a layer of hot stones, and he
is allowed to repose undisturbed for some time, when he
is roused from his quiescent condition, with a high fever
heat upon him, but at the same time in a state of profuse
perspiration. This method of preparing meats, which,
en passant, is in general use throughout the Pacific
islands, is called in the Hawaiian dialect, a luaii (luow,)
derived from the name of tne herbs frequently cooked
along with them. It preserves the flavor and juices of
the animal in a much higher degree of perfection than
the process of roasting before the fire.

While we lay at Papeete, I had frequent opportunity
of observing the regularity with which the tide arrived
at its flood every day at twelve o'clock, and at its lowest
point at six o'clock, morning and evening. It is well
known that high tide occurs in every other part of the
world, not at the same hour, but about fifty minutes
later, and is principally owing to the attraction of the
moon, which arrives upon the meridian, later by this
time every day, about three hours before high tide ; this
phenomenon therefore, presents a strange anomaly,

TIDE. 311

which has not met with a satisfactory explanation.
" Among the natural phenomena of the south sea islands,
the tide is one of the most singular, and presents as
great an exception to the theory of Sir Isaac Newton, as
is to be met with in any part of the world. The rising
and falling of the waters of the ocean appear, if influenced
at all, to be so in a very small degree only by the moon.
The height to which the water rises, varies but a few
inches during the whole year, and at no time, is it eleva-
ted more than a foot or a foot and a half. The sea,
however, often rises to an unusual height, but this
appears to be the effect of strong winds blowing for some
time from one quarter, or the heavy swells of the sea,
which flow from different directions, and prevail equally
during the time of high and low water. But the most
remarkable circumstance is the uniformity of the time of
high and low water, during the year, whatever be the
age or the situation of the moon, the water is lowest at
six in the morning, and highest at noon and midnight.
This is so well established, that the time of night is
marked by the ebbing and flowing of the tide, and in all
the islands, the term for high water and for midnight is
the same." (Ellis's Polynesian Researches.)

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE SOUTH PACIFIC.

Retrospect of Tahiti — Additional passengers — Accident —
Snow — Iceberg — Religion of sadlors — Bird catching.

Friday, September 25th., we weighed anchor at Pa-
peete bay, and with a lowering unpropitious sky, that
had been deluging us with rain all the morning, and had
dyed the bay of a bright yellow, from the muddy waters
of the swollen streams, we moved slowly out of the
harbor, and were soon tossing upon the ocean, "deep,
dark, rough and shoreless" to us, for many a month.

In taking a retrospect of Tahiti, it appears to me, from
the observations which I have endeavored to make with
candor, that the " queen of the Pacific," a proud title
that has been given to this island, is far behind any of
the Hawaiian islands, in industry, knowledge of govern-
ment, and religion. The English missionaries will
themselves allow this ; and although many of them
have been stationed upon this and the adjoining islands
for more than forty years, yet their success, when
compared with what has been accomplished by the
missionaries at the Hawaiian islands, is by no means
equal to what one would naturally expect. I do not say
this in condemnation of the English missionaries, for the
materials upon which their efforts have been expended,
may have been of an unfavourable character, or they may

RETROSPECT OF TAHITI. 313

not have adopted the best possible course ; and perhaps,
they have not infused that energy into their operations,
which is so characteristic of missionary movements at
the Hawaiian islands. The number of English mis-
sionaries at Tahiti, bears a greater proportion to the
population, than that of the American missionaries at the
Hawaiian islands to the population of those islands. I
had an opportunity of seeing and conversing with several
of them, as an unusual number had convened at Papeete,
to try one of their corps, who had been guilty of some
improprieties while acting as missionary at one of the
adjacent islands. Some of them are far advanced in life,
and have spent about forty years upon these islands ;
but one or two are very juvenile in their appearance.
They are all good men, I doubt not, and are devoting
themselves to the welfare of those among whom their
lives are to be spent ; for there is nothing in the life of a
missionary that is inviting, except as it calls into exer-
cise the promptings of disinterested benevolence. Al-
though schools have been established at Tahiti, and the
adjoining islands, for the instruction of the natives, yet
there was nothing that I could discover, indicating that
improvement and intelligence that is so apparent at
Honolulu, and at many other places in the Hawaiian
group. The American missionaries have been far more
enterprising in printing tracts and books in the native
language than their brethren in the south Pacific, who
have published nothing upon any scientific subject, and
had but just received a complete edition of the scriptures
in the Tahitian language, a day or two after we arrived
at Papeete. In reviewing the labors of the Hawaiian
missionaries, and in comparing what they have done,
with what has been accomplished in other islands of the
Pacific, we cannot feel too high an admiration for the

2T

314 THE SOUTH PACIFIC.

glorious results, which the representations of impartial
tourists and the missionary periodicals are daily present-
ing to the public.

October^ 5. At Tahiti we made some additions to
our ship's company, which restored the original number
of passengers aboard the Flora. The poor man, who
cut his throat soon after leaving Honolulu, and exhibited
other marks of insanity, became so very troublesome, that
he was discharged from the ship, and placed under the
care of the United States Consul at Papeete, where he
will probably end his days. A gentleman by the name
of Hall joined us at Tahiti, a man of intelligence and
pleasing manners. He was formerly master of several
vessels in succession, and has made repeated voyages to
Russia and to various places in the East Indies, some
accounts of which that he has given me in the dog-
watches of the evening, have been highly interesting.
Captain S., received on board the mate of the Alexander
Mansfield, the condemned whale ship, who acts as one
of the officers, a very important acquisition, as one of
our officers is disabled, and has been so for some time
past. It is a very pleasant thing for me to have a
brother whaler for a shipmate ; for although I dissolved
my connection with whaling life, upon leaving the
North America, yet I shall never cease feeling an
interest in that noble service, for which I entertain
such a high degree of admiration. Mr. Gan — our new
officer — while engaged in "cutting in" a whale, several
years since, was walking across the deck, when he was
knocked down by a piece of blubber, that suddenly
swung on board, which fractured his leg, and rendered
him lame for life. He told me, that frequently when he
has been at the head of the boat, attending to the gear,
which was fast to a running whale, he has been carried

AN ACCIDENT. 315

under, and almost strangled by the violent pitching of
the boat in her impetuous course. Just before we
arrived at Tahiti, an American ship had touched there,
having met with the loss of her captain, a short time
previously, who was killed by a stroke from the flukes
of a whale to which he was fast, or had struck with the
harpoon.

After leaving Tahiti, we doubled around the island of
Eimeo, or Morea, as it is called by the natives, which is
in plain sight from Papeete. Its shores are thickly set
with cocoa-nut trees, and in its general aspect it is not
dissimilar to Tahiti. For the two or three succeeding
days, the weather was cold and rainy, and one or two
unpleasant scenes attendant upon the commencement of
a voyage — for instance, sea-sickness, were enacted over
again, by one or two of the passengers.

October, 7. During the last night, a strong breeze
brought the ship down to double reefed top-sails, when
about lour o'clock this morning, the main-top-sail yard
snapped in two, but the sail was taken in, and secured,
until four or five hours afterwards, when the wind died
away into a calm, and the broken spar was sent down.
It was found to be defective, owing to its being perforated
by an iron eye bolt, to which the chain tie was attached,
instead of to a band going around the yard. This acci-
dent was of no material importance in our present situa-
tion, but had it occurred while we were endeavoring to
beat off a lee shore, it would have endangered the loss of
the ship. By the middle of the afternoon, a new top-sail
yard was sent up, and adjusted to its proper place by the
perils, braces and lifts. The topsail was then bent upon
it, with rope hands (" robeins ") and earings ; then sheet-
ed home, and hoisted, and we were ready to take advan-

316 THE SOUTH PACIFIC.

tage of the fair wind, which sprang up just as we were
ready for it.

To-day we saw albatrosses for the first time, although
in the low latitude of 31° south, but were unsuccessful
in capturing any of them although they snapped off from
the line, and swallowed several large fish hooks for us,
and gorged themselves with the salt pork, with which
they were baited.

Monday, October 26. Last night, a strong breeze on
our starboard quarter, blew up into a gale of wind by
morning, and we ran before it under double reefed
top-sails, which was more than most ships could have
carried in safety on such an occasion. Latitute 53° 47'
longitude 96° 53'.

Tuesday, October 27. A slight fall of snow excited
great delight in our tropical friends, the more advanced
of whom, hailed its appearance as that of an old acquaint-
ance. It was highly amusing to see with what enthu-
siasm the children ran about the deck, collecting1 the
falling flakes, delighted with the novel properties of a
substance they had heard so much about, and wondering
at its benumbing effect upon their hands. The thermom-
eter stood not far from 32°, a temperature felt more
severely at sea, than a fall of the thermometer eight or
ten degrees lower, would be on land. The missionary
families, as I had anticipated, were very meagerly
supplied with suitable articles of clothing for a tempera-
ture of which they had but little idea until they encoun-
tered it ; and the elder members, after a residence of
twenty years in a tropical climate, had apparently almost
forgotten the nature of cold weather. We had no fire
on board, except what was in the cook's galley, and the
clothing of some of the children was entirely inadequate

ICEBERGS. 317

to the temperature of the weather, especially as they were
laboring under the hooping cough. Many of the
passengers, to keep warm, resort to their berths, and one
or two of the ladies are provided with slabs of soapstone,
whose power of retaining heat is rendered available in
keeping their feet warm.

Sunday ) November 1. Latitude 56° 47'. Longitude 77°
OCK From the latitude and longitude, it will be seen
that the ship is not far from Cape Horn. Last night, a
heavy gale of wind sprang up from the westward, with
frequent squalls of snow and sleet. This morning, while
reefing the fore-topsail, a man fell from the extremity of
the yard, and was caught in the studding-sail gear, which
was fortunately rove at the time; otherwise, he must
have been dashed to pieces by falling upon deck, or have
been lost overboard, for no boat could survive such a sea.
The conflict of the elements was a sight that could not
but inspire the beholder with awe. We wore flying
before the gale, but the mighty surges, swollen with
accumulated waters, gather in dread array in our rear,
then sweep onward in pursuit, with increasing momen-
tum, until towering above us with their foaming crests,
they seem ready to engulf us ; but the gallant ship, with
her taff'erel thrown high into the air, plunges headlong
down the watery steep, then mounts upon the heaving
sea, that is piling up under her bow. " An iceberg in
sight!" is suddenly echoed throughout the ship, and
every one hurries upon deck to view the interesting but
unwelcome visitant. Through the gloom of the driving
snow-storm, the majestic ice island is descried, and its
craggy peaks of a light green color tipped with white,
are distinctly seen rising in stateliness above the angry
waters. It had a wild dreary aspect, comporting well
with the hoarse roar of the winds and the raging sea,

2T*

318 THE SOUTH PACIFIC.

and reminded us of the forlorn regions southward of us,
in which it had its origin— whence it was detached, and
now, impelled by the ocean storms, it is wasted away
until not a vestige of it shall remain. The height of the
iceberg was estimated to be not far from three hundred
feet ; if this conjecture is correct, then, as the specific
gravity of ice compared with water, is as eight to nine,
the depth of the ice island below the surface of the
water, was two thousand four hundred feet, or not far
from half a mile. Whenever a fragment is detached at
this great depth — a not unfrequent occurrence — its buoy-
ancy causes it to shoot upward with very great velocity,
and many ships sailing in the neighborhood of icebergs,
have filled with water and foundered, from an encounter
with one of those masses, which are often of very great
dimensions. A foggy atmosphere very frequently invests
these ice islands, and the navigator, who has been ac-
customed to traverse those seas where they are prevalent,
takes warning of their proximity, by being suddenly
enveloped in a cold fog. On this account, and because
their position can never be foreseen by calculation, as
that of rocks laid down upon the chart, they are objects
of peculiar dread to the mariner. In a gale of wind,
where they are numerous, a ship is exposed to the
extreme danger of being crushed by their collision.
Many vessels bound around Cape Horn, that have never
been heard from are supposed to have been lost among
ice islands, whose presence in this region greatly enhances
the danger. During the last night, several other ice-
bergs were passed, as was supposed from the sudden and
intense cold experienced at different intervals by the
watch upon deck, and on one occasion, about midnight,
one of the passengers perceived so sudden an alteration
in the temperature, that he went upon deck to ascertain

LEVITY OF SAILORS. 319

the cause. All night long we were propelled before the
blast, blinded by the snow, which shrouded our course
in darkness, and winding our way amid dangers, the
very thought of which is appalling to the voyager. Soon
after this iceberg was seen, the foresail was taken in, and
the ship under a close reefed main-top-sail bounded along
over the swollen waters.

Thursday, November 5. The gale of wind we en-
countered last Sunday, abated towards night, and with
a strong breeze after us, in a day or two we doubled
Cape Horn, and were out of all danger of icebergs.

The man who fell from the fore-top-sail-yard arm, and
so narrowly escaped destruction, was somewhat sobered
by it at first, and continued so during the day, especially
as the duties he and the other seamen were called upon
to execute during the storm, were too serious and un-
comfortable to admit of much jesting over that occur-
rence. The next day, however, he was as light hearted
as any of them, and as would be the case with most
sailors who think it effeminate to heed an escape from
death, to which they are constantly exposed, the recol-
lection of his hazardous situation was almost entirely
effaced. Though compelled to undergo the severest toils
and privations, which almost always terminate his life
before he has reached its natural limit, yet the sailor is a
light-hearted, careless fellow, forgetting all sober reflec-
tions when danger has passed by. His religious notions
are often a species of universal ism, and he believes that
by a faithful discharge of his duties aboard ship, and by
open handed generosity to his shipmates, all that is
required of him, will be accomplished. Voyaging on
the deep, where he sees so many exhibitions of Almighty
power, he feels that he requires in a peculiar manner, the
protection of that Supreme Beingj who directs the ele-

320 THE SOUTH PACIFIC.

ments at his will, and he is led to imagine that some
kind spirit is watching over him from above, to speed
him on his way, and he loves to think,

" There's a sweet little cherub who sits up aloft,
To keep a watch o'er the life of poor Jack."

Mariner's Song-book.

In the terrific hurricane, or in impending shipwreck,
when death seems near, even the most thoughtless sail-
ors are brought to sober reflection upon their lives, and
the most earnest professions of repentance are made, and
perhaps they supplicate for mercy for themselves. But
as danger passes away, their serious impressions too often
evaporate, or are sometimes succeeded by the profane jest
upon their fears, which prompted them to seek help from
on high. An instance in illustration, came to my knowl-
edge some time since. A ship had just encountered a
terrific gale of wind, in which she had been thrown on
her beam ends, and was in imminent peril of being lost.
While in this awful situation, some of the crew were
paralyzed by fear, but the greater part were loudly im-
ploring help from on hi^h, and mercy upon themselves,
in prospect of the doom which seemed to be impending
over them. Meanwhile, the masts were cut away, and
the ship righted again ; and not long afterwards, the
storm abated, when jury masts were rigged, and the
ship continued on her course. But with the storm, the
religious impressions of the crew had disappeared, or were
considered as farcical, and legitimate subjects for mer-
riment. * By ," some one more hardened than the

rest exclaimed, "how Bill did pray ; he walked it off at
the rate of eight knots an hour, just as if he had been a
parson all his life." " Yes, but I only wanted to see how
big fools I could make of the rest of you, that were scared
almost to death," retorts his opponent. "Scared to

RELIGION OF SAILORS. 321

death ! You'd better 'bout ship on that tack, maty, for
didn't we all see you with your teeth chattering together
so that you couldn't speak the truth if you had tried,
and shaking all over like a top-sail shivering in the
wind V

It does not seem strange that those whose lives depend
upon the capricious elements, should be thoughtless upon
the uncertain tenure of their lives, when we reflect, that
the soldier in active service, when most familiar with
death is more than ever reckless ; and, therefore, sailors,
except when overpowered with terror at the approach of
death, are careless and indifferent about the dangers by
which they are surrounded.

" The loud tempests raise

The waters, and repentance for past sinning
In all, who o'er the great deep take their ways.
They vow to amend their lives, and yet they don't,
Because if drowned they can't — if saved they wont."

Saturday, Nov. 7. A beautiful and mild day, follow-
ed by a calm towards sunset. The great number of
birds around the ship, induced me to make the attempt
to catch some of them, which was successful ; a Moni-
moke — as this bird is called by the whalers — and a doz-
en speckled Haglets, or Cape-pigeons, as they are com-
monly, but improperly, named, were captured. The
Monimoke very nearly resembles the Albatross in shape,
and, although but two-thirds the size of the latter, is a
much finer bird in appearance. This variety is white,
having upon the head, and particularly upon the neck,
a most delicate, and pure white plumage, which is re-
lieved by the dark lead color of his back and wings.
His eye is of a most brilliant black, just above which,
there is a narrow fringe of delicate black feathers, which
gives it much more expression than it would otherwise

322 THE SOUTH PACIFIC.

have. After all the passengers had embraced the oppor-
tunity of studying the captive, it was proposed to liberate
him, and I was appointed to carry the proposition into ef-
fect. A speech was called for on the occasion, and mount-
ing upon the capstan with the bird in hand, I pronoun-
ced his release in the true Latin formulary — alias, con-
ferred on him his degree : " Pro auctoritate mihi com-
missa," &c. He was then thrown high into the air, but
did not embrace the opportunity of taking to wing, and
fell down upon deck, owing, as was suggested, to his
partial acquaintance with the Latin dialect, and from his
ignorance of our intention to liberate him. Descend-
ing from the capstan, and addressing him in the En-
glish tongue, " Over board with you !" he apprehend-
ed our purposes, as they were rendered more clear by
elevating him above the rail and giving him a tilt over-
board.

The speckled Haglet is a bird about the size of
our large pigeon. His delicate webb feet and bill, are
of jet black color, and the latter is formed with a tu-
bular nostril protruding beyond the outline of the
bill, like that of the Petrel, or " Mother Cary's chick-
en," although not quite so prominent. His eye is of
a brilliant jet black, and his plumage is of a dark
brown color, speckled with numerous white feathers,
by which he is distinguished from another variety of
the Haglet.

A pin turned round about a quarter of an inch, baited
with salt pork, and attached to a thread with a cork for
a float, is all the apparatus necessary for the capture of
these birds. There were great numbers of them about,
and their loud chatterings, and the eagerness with
which they took hold of the bait, even diving under
water to the depth of one or two feet, indicated their vo-

BIRD CATCHING. 323

racity. The plumage of these aquatic birds is so ad-
mirably adapted to the element from which they ob-
tain their subsistence, that it always continues dry, even
after repeated dives below the surface. The speckled
Haglet is a beautiful bird, but like all other aquatic birds
of this region, emits a most disgusting effluvium from its
mouth when captured.

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE SOUTH ATLANTIC

A MERCHANT SHIP — L.ONG-BOAT — CREW — GALE — PoR POISE — PaM-

pero — Dolphin — Waterspout — Protracted head- winds — Omi-
nous CHARACTER OF THE FLORA — EMPLOYMENT OF TIME.

As the Flora is a merchant vessel, she is not provided
with many of those appendages that are peculiar to wha-
lers. Alo(t, there is no difference, with the exception ot
top-gallant-cross-trees, which are wanting in the former.
Upon deck the principal difference consists, in a long-boat
in place of the try-works in which the oil is prepared,
which are located between the fore and main masts. The
long-boat is a large bulky craft, intended as a lighter in
transporting merchandize from ship to shore, while the
vessel is at anchor, and built very strong, but with no
reference to any other quality but capacity. When not
in use she is firmly secured in a framework upon deck,
and is generally housed over, forming a very convenient
receptacle for swine and other animals, as is the case in
the present instance. Several dingy-looking hen-coops
ranged along upon top, with an array of water casks up-
on each side, complete the appearance of the long-boat
and its appendages. In a whaleship, the bearers — spars
crossing the quarter deck at the height of nine or ten feet,

A MERCHANT SHIP. 325

and supporting the spare boats, which are lashed upon
them, bottom upwards — give to this part of the ship a
very different aspect from that of a merchant vessel.
At the tafferel, hangs the yawl, a light boat rowed with
four oars, and a very convenient little craft for gliding
around upon the still waters of a bay, but a miserable
structure for venturing out upon the ocean billows. It
is supported from two timbers, four or five feet long,
projecting beyond the rail, called "davits," very unlike in
shape and position, the long curved timbers, upon which
the boats of a whale ship are elevated upon each side of
the vessel.

Merchant ships almost always carry more sail than
whalers, which have no object in hurrying forward on
their course with any more rapidity, than is necessary
in hunting their game. The Flora sometimes spreads
six studding sails, when the wind is directly aft, and
some ships display eight or more at times. When a
ship is seen coming down before the wind, with lower,
topmast, top-gallant, and royal studding sails run out
upon both sides, and with lofty sky-sails set above this
cloud of canvass, she presents a most majestic and beau-
tiful appearance.

The Flora carries eleven men "all told," for her com-
plement— captain and two officers, cook and steward, and
seven men before the mast — a number that appeared to
me entirely inadequate for a vessel of her tonnage, as I
had but a short time before left the North America,
where we had thirty one men "all told," for our com-
plement, and upon one or two occasions, when we were
suddenly struck by heavy squalls, these were not found
to be too numerous. No occurrence of this kind has
as yet taken place, an event very much to be deprecated,
as the sails could not be taken in with the expedition so

28

THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

imperativly necessary on such occasions. An approach-
ing squall is almost always an object of solicitude to the
navigator, from the uncertainty of foretelling its effects.
A light mist may be seen gathering to windward, that is
hardly worth noticing, but in its folds it conceals the
tornado, that may carry away the masts before its proxim-
ity is discovered ; and again it may rise in threatening
array, with angry clouds, and yet pass harmlessly by.
Our crew is composed of representatives from a variety
of nations. There are two Swedes, a Dane, a Fin, an
Englishman, an Irishman, and a Scotchman. They are
excellent sailors, and I am very much pleased with their
appearance. Of the invalid sailors, that were put on
board at Papeete, by the United States Consul, only one
is able to be upon duty all the time. The Flora is not
well found in rigging, for much of the running rigging
is defective, and not of sufficient length, and the tackles
are of the worst description, a deficiency which struck
me the more forcibly, from the excellent condition of
every thing of this description on board the North Amer-
ica ; but there are no ships in the world that are fitted
out with more liberality than whale ships, and the
Flora may not be very inferior to the average of mer-
chant vessels. The discipline of these two ships
is very different ; for a familiarity often takes place
between officers and men aboard this ship, that would
never have been tolerated in the least, aboard the North
America. Where the seamen endeavor to modify an
order they receive from their officers, by suggesting some
improvement, there can be no very high degree of disci-
pline observed. This is not the case in the generality of
merchant ships ; for in the merchant as well as in the wha~
ling service, the degree of discipline observed depends
almost entirely upon the will and energy of the master.

GALE. 327

Some degree of rivalry exists between the whaling
and merchant services. The whaler in his career of
adventure, looks with contempt upon the dullness and
monotony of the merchant service, and the merchant-
man, as he is ploughing his way over the deep under a
cloud of canvass, disdains the dirty "blubber hunter," as
he invidiously denominates his rival, who is moving
slowly under diminished sail, and quietly pursuing his
avocations. I have conversed with many persons who
have been engaged in both services, and they have
invariably given their preference to a whaling life. A
gentleman of my acquaintance, who was master of sever-
al merchant ships in succession, many years since, told
me, that if he was a young man, upon the eve of follow-
ing the seas for life, he should by all means enter the
whaling business. ■<

Sunday ■, Monday, Tuesday, November, 8, 9, 10.
Foggy, rainy weather, with light and baffling winds for
some time past. On Monday night last, it commenced
blowing hard from the north-east preceded by a great
fall in the barometer, which stood at 2S° 37', at the com-
mencement of the gale. The ship was "hove to,'*
heading north north-west with the wind and sea increas-
ing during the succeeding day. At night the aspect of
the gale was surpassingly grand. "Storm howled to
storm," careering through the rigging in one continued
sullen roar, while the ominous gloom diffused around,
and the angry waves " upraised in hills of fluctuating fire,"
flashing amid the surrounding darkness, impressed an
awful grandeur upon the scene.

Whenever a gale of wind in these iatitudes comes
from the north, it usually veers towards the west, then
to the south-west, from which quarter it often bursts
forth with increased violence. During one of these

328 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

gales, it is not an unusual occurrence, for the wind to
shift suddenly to the south-west, exposing a ship to the
danger of being taken aback, if she is heading towards the
west, and driving her stern first against the heavy sea
from the north, a situation of extreme peril. It is hence
much safer for a ship to be hove to, on the other tack ;
for a sudden change of wind is received on her quarter,
and all that is necessary is to check in the weather bra-
ces. During the gale, I amused myself with catching
speckled-haglets, as a kind of relief to our uncomfortable
situation, and was very successful. The ship's deck has
been leaky for some time, and the passengers in the steer-
age bitterly complain of beds and clothes saturated with
water. No doubt, the constant dampness of the state-
rooms has been the cause of the violent coughs with
which the children are all afflicted. Notwithstanding
the grandeur and display of power in a storm at sea, a
man who is at all rational, ought to be satisfied with one
exhibition. Upon deck the raging storm holds undisputed
sway, while below, the dismal gloom and humid exhala-
tions from every thing, render the scene scarcely more
inviting. In addition to this, the violent pitching of the
ship, and the groaning of the bulkheads, forbid all at-
tempts at seeking repose. And besides, let the rattling
of the plates at the table be taken into the account, or,
what is worse, the reception of your dinner upon your
outward man— and, most respected reader, you have an
exhibition of what a glorious thing a storm at sea is, when
viewed behind the scenes.

In the evening, Capt. Hall and I were suddenly alarm-
ed by a crash upon deck just over our heads. We ran
up to ascertain the cause, when we found that one of the
wheel ropes had given way, and that the tiller had been
forced up against the round house, carrying away a piece

porpoise. 329

of it, by a sea striking against the rudder. The reliev-
ing-tackles were instantly hooked on, and the rope was
soon repaired. An accident like this occurring under
some circumstances — while scudding before a gale of wind
for instance — might be attended with disastrous conse-
quences. During the night — Tuesday — a rise of the
barometer indicated that the violence of the gale was over,
and by the next morning, it had materially abated. Lat.
51o S. Long. 45o W.

Friday, Nov. 13. A large porpoise, of a species pecu-
liar to Cape Horn and these regions, was captured this
morning. This variety has but a short snout, wmch is a
characteristic distinguishing it from the common kinds.
His exterior is nearly black, with a broad, longitudinal
stripe of a milk white color, wider towards the extremi-
ties than in the middle. The mouths of all varieties of
the porpoise, have some resemblance to that of a swine,
from which circumstance, sailors have assigned a rather
fanciful origin to this class of cetacea. According to an
opinion prevalent among them, when the evil spirits were
cast out of the unfortunate man near the lake of Gennes-
saret, and entered into the herd of swine, " the whole
herd ran violently down a steep place into the sea," and
were changed into porpoises, which also accounts for the
unusual degree of activity, and the gambols displayed by
these animals. This theory would be rather more plau-
sible, if the miracle had not taken place upon the mar-
gin of an inland lake, which had no communication with
the sea.

Saturday, Nov. 14. With some of the blubber of the
porpoise attached to a large fish hook, I succeeded in cap-
turing six Albatrosses, besides losing many more by the
breaking of the line or the hook, and blistering my hands.
The capture of these birds was a source of great amuse-

28*

330 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

ment to the passengers, who provided themselves amply
with their beautiful feathers, and were by no means neg-
lectful of the fricassee, in which form these Albatrosses
made their appearance upon the table.

Tuesday, Nov. 17. During the last night, a heavy
gale of wind sprang up from the west, accompanied with
frequent and violent squalls, surpassing every thing of
the kind we have yet experienced. The sea was not so
high however as it has been on former occasions, and
our situation was by no means as uncomfortable. The
winds may howl in fury through the rigging, and yet,
opposed by the powerful cordage and spars, may do no
injury ; but the impetuosity of the surges, as they accu-
mulate during a heavy and continued gale of wind is ir-
resistible, and the strain upon a ship is very great upon
such occasions. The latitude of the ship to-day, is 43°
27', not far from that of the mouth of the river De la Pla-
ta, in passing which, ships not unfrequently encounter
tremendous gales, lasting from six to eight hours, which
have been known to reduce a vessel to a complete wreck.
The vast pampas, or plains upon the banks of this river,
extending far inland, disturb the equilibrium of the at-
mosphere, and give origin to these pamperos or hurri-
canes which are felt far out to sea.

" Quippe ferant rapidi secum, verrantque per auras."

As for myself, my situation was uncomfortable enough,
as I passed a sleepless night, listening to the roar of the
gale, and holding myself in my berth, which, with reflect-
ing upon the serious consequences likely to happen to
my person in the event of falling out, kept me very effec-
tually awake. What rendered my anticipations of such
a casualty the more unfavorable to repose, was that there
were two boxes in my state-room, separated from one an-

STORMY WEATHER. 331

other by a space of two feet or more, and if I had been
pitched out of my berth upon their sharp edges, I should
certainly have been put hors du combat. The board that
in stormy weather, passed across my berth for a defence,
had been removed a day or two previous, and nothing
would have prevented me from rolling out, if I had fall-
en asleep.

Wednesday, Nov. 18. I find in my note book the
following brief memoranda. " Constant rainy, foggy and
blowy weather for more than two weeks past — ship leaky
in her upper works— forecastle water-logged, and men
sick." As regards the weather, the only qualifying ad-
jectives applicable to it, are bad, ivorse, worst. With
calms and fogs, cold rains and stormy winds, our situa-
tion may be readily conceived to be of a very trying na-
ture to all on board. Our state-rooms are all wet, and
the forecastle is pronounced to be afloat. Several of the
men, in consequence, have been taken sick, and off duty,
at a time when the services of every one were almost in-
dispensable. Violent colds have also been very prevalent
among the passengers.

To diversify the scene in some degree, I amused my-
self in catching birds, among which were several speci-
mens of the black Monimoke, a species I have not yet
described. The black Monimoke is somewhat smaller
than the white variety, and is about the size of a common
goose. His plumage is of a dark brown, glossy appear-
ance, and his bill and feet are of a jet black color. His
jet black eye is set in bold relief, by a delicate fringe of
white feathers immediately over it, and his bill is a-
dorned with a white cord running along the lower part
of it.

Sunday, Nov. 22. Our Meteorological table still con-
tinues the same, with the agreeable reflection of having

332 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

made but little Northing for some time past. Lat. 32°
47' S., Long. 35° 46' W.

Tuesday, Dec. 1. A mild and beautiful day with
scarcely any wind, a most agreeable relief from the
gloomy atmosphere that has hung over us for so long a
time. From a school of small dolphins that visited the
ship, I succeeded in capturing two, each of which meas-
ured about two feet in length. The Dolphin is regarded
as one of the most beautiful of the finny tribe, not only
for his elegance of shape, but from his possessing the cha-
meleon-like property of changing his colors at will. He
rarely exceeds five feet in length, and he is very thin in
proportion to his breadth. The head of those of the lar-
gest size has some resemblance in outline to that of the
sperm whale, although the under jaw does not differ ma-
terially from that of the common varieties of fish. Upon
his back commencing just above the gills, and extending
almost to his tail, is a thin membrane stretching between
slender bones, forming a beautiful crest, which together
with his back, is of a deep blue or purple color. His ven-
tral fin resembles a delicate fringe, and is tipped with
white. His tail is long and slender, and his entire shape
fits him for great activity and velocity of motion. While
the " North America " was in Panama bay, we were dai-
ly visited by numbers of dolphins, and I frequently saw
them leap out of water ten or twelve times in rapid suc-
cesion, as far as twenty or twenty-five feet at each time.
With his dorsal crest erect, and all his fins distended in
the eagerness of pursuit after flying fish, and his hues
changing from blue to green, then to yellow, in all the in-
termediate shades — then with bands of a brown color en-
circling him, or stripes running longitudinally — and all
these changes taking place like the flash of the Aurora
Borealis— the dolphin is entitled to be considered one of

WATERSPOUT. 333

the most beautiful and interesting of the finny tribe. The
changing hues of the dying dolphin have always been
celebrated. The various shades of blue are the predom-
inating colors, which are rapidly exchanged for delicate
tinges of green and yellow, as the agonies of death are
convulsing his frame.

Wednesday, Dec. 9. This morning, we were called
upon deck to view a waterspout. The weather had been
lowering with light winds, and from an extended stratum
of dark clouds, drawn along at an elevation of about
twenty-five degrees, the waterspout or whirlwind was
seen forming. It extended downwards in a well defined
dark column, turned a little to the right, with a whitish
streak in the middle of it, and assuming different attitudes
until it disappeared. It never extended much more than
half way to the horizon, but when at its greatest elonga-
tion, we could perceive a light vapor rising from the sea
immediately underneath. The distance from ua was un-
doubtedly very great.

Tuesday, Dec. 22. The following items I extract from
my note book. " Dec. 13. Yesterday, gale of wind from
the N. E.— Ship reefed down. To-day, wind from the
north from which quarter it has been blowing steadily
for the last twenty days, which has, of course, almost en-
tirely prevented our making any progress. Dec. 15.
Spoke a Swedish brig, the "Oberon," from Rio de Janeiro
— light baffling weather — provisions almost gone. Dec.
20. Passed a barque on opposite tacks, within a few feet
of him — spoke him, but he manifested a most determined
silence — no colors were run up." A summary of the
days in which we have experienced head winds, exhibits
the lamentable truth, that from Nov. 27 to Dec. 22, a pe-
riod of twenty-five days, we have encountered a constant
succession of head winds, with but rare exceptions, and

334 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

those of very short continuance. On Nov. 27th our lati-
tude was 27° 56' S. ; and on Dec. 22, it was 23° 44'
showing an advance of only 4° 12', or two hundred and
fifty two miles in twenty-five days, which gives us an
average of ten miles per day. The Flora is a most mis-
erable sailer, and for beating to windward, a tub with a
large pocket handkerchief for a sail could do almost as
well. The vessels mentioned above, out-sailed us to such
a degree, that although they were first seen upon our lee
quarter, yet they worked up to windward, and were out
of sight of us before the next day. Such a superiority is
very humiliating; for the feelings of the voyager become
intimately associated with his ship, and the character she
exhibits is an object of no ordinary interest to him. It
reminds us of the commencement of the fable of " The
Hare and the Tortoise," in which the Hare is soon out of
si^ht leaving the tortoise laffffinsr on behind. It would be
some consolation if we could entertain the animating
hope declared at the end of the fable, that " slow and
steady wins the race ;" but by numerous irresistible
proofs, we have arrived at the conclusion, that the Flora
is an anomaly, setting all established rules at defiance.
Standing east on one tack, and west on the other, we
can hardly expect to make much northing. To do this
craft justice, however, she possesses one desirable quality,
in being very easy in a gale of wind; and safe, so long as
she has a plenty of sea room.

The weather, for the most part, is now delightful, and
were it not that we are short of provisions, and have been
entirely destitute of vegetables for many weeks, it would
make no material difference with me to be detained here
much longer. Some of the passengers are absolutely
suffering for the want of vegetables, and there is but little
prospect of relief unless the wind changes, which will,

BRIGHTER PROSPECTS. 335

of course be in our favor. It is some consolation, when
one is reduced to the lowest stage of misfortune, to know
that any change in his circumstances must necessarily
prove an alleviation. Those that are shipwrecked and
meet with the entire loss of their wardrobes, are admira-
bly prepared for the latest fashions.

The Swedish brig we spoke the other day, was a
beautiful clipper built vessel, and Oberon himself, king
of the fairies, would have felt honored by having his
name adopted by so elegant a craft. She was from Rio
de Janeiro, bound to Falmouth, England, with English
property on board, which was owing to a panic among
the English at that city, from a report that has just reach-
ed them, that France and England were on the eve of
war ; and they therefore entrusted their property to a
neutral flag. This intelligence was highly interesting
to us, as we were liable to be intercepted and annoyed by
cruizers of either nation, and afforded an ample fund for
conversation for some time.

Tuesday, Dec. 22. After many most melancholy sup-
pers upon hard bread and molasses (our butter disap-
peared more than two months since) a note of joy was
heard throughout the ship, which diffused a smile of glad-
ness over every face. A barrel of flour was found, which
had eluded the strict search that had been made for it,
and it was with feelings of thanksgiving that we saw it
committed to the hands of the steward.

Wednesday Dec. 23. If " woes cluster," it is perhaps
equally true that tokens of prosperity are not solitary vis-
iters. It is so with us ; for the ship is heading north with
a fine breeze from the eastward, probably the first im-
pulse of the S. E. trade wind.

It may not prove uninteresting to take a sketch of the
manner in which we spend our time. In the morning,

336 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

before eight o'clock — the breakfast hour— the missionary
families hold prayer in their respective state-rooms. As
to myself, I seize upon this time, as the most quiet period
from sunrise to sunset, for reading or writing. At half
past seven o'clock, commence the percussion of jumping
ropes, squealing, and other indications that "this is the
age of oddities let loose." From ten to twelve, I read in
some favorite author to Mrs. Bingham upon deck, who is
usually joined by the young ladies and others. From
twelve o'clock M. until dinner is announced, we are
again entertained by a prelude in clicker clack! clicker
clack ! clicker clack! from half a dozen jumping ropes,
which although they are stringed instruments are of the
most intolerable character. We dine at one o'clock,
but are glad to dispatch our viands as soon as possible,
to make our escape from the hard and uncomfortable
benches upon which we sit, and also from the noise of
the creaking: bulkheads, which is so loud as almost to
forbid conversation. After dinner, we take a stroll upon
deck, not to work off its effects, however, for we are nev-
er guilty of the sin of satiety, although it may be ques-
tioned how far our abstemiousness is a virtue. At four
o'clock the sounds from the deck announce that the ju-
venile part of the Flora's passengers is on the qui vive,
and these are unceasing for the hour and a half that suc-
ceeds. After supper, we promenade the deck ; some
walking arm-in-arm with the ladies, and entertaining
them with the latest news, or cultivating scandal,
which is always prolific when there is a vacuity of sense
or of news, as is the case in the present instance. As for
myself, I prefer my solitary walk upon deck ; or leaning
over the rail, or mounting up the rigging, to review what
1 may have heard or read worth remembering — to recall
the happy hours of days long since passed away, and to

EMPLOYMENT OF TIME. 337

picture to myself the lineaments of my own dear home.

" Oh ! what can sanctify the joys of home
Like hope's gay glance from Ocean's troubled foam."

At eight o'clock, public prayers are held in the steerage,
and this interesting exercise is usually attended by all,
except the officer of the watch and the man at the wheel.
Upon the Sabbath, the Rev. Mr. Bingham delivers a dis-
course, both in the morning and in the afternoon, which
is often accompanied with earnest appeals to the sea-
men. The two or three hours succeeding evening pray-
ers are devoted by myself to study, or reading, and they
are the most favorable as far as respects quiet, of the
twenty four hours. At half past ten, the gentlemen take
a bath upon deck, and we then retire to our berths, most
delightfully refreshed, and prepared for uninterrupted
slumbers.

29

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.
Stores of the Flora — Pernambtjco — Harbor.

Tuesday > December 29. It has already been intima
ted that we are almost out of provisions, and although
the subject of eating- and drinking may have a very
unpoetical aspect, yet to the voyager, whose supplies an
almost exhausted, and himself at a distance from an
port where they may be procured, it becomes an object
of prominent interest. Such is our situation, and as we
hear that one article after another is entirely exhausted,
and perceive that some of the passengers are suffering
from the unpalatable diet to which they are subjected,
we cannot but feel an anxiety about the meagre condi-
tion of our stores, which constitutes the principal theme
of conversation. In approaching ^his subject, it is not in
a spirit of censoriousness, nor with a design of attributing
our illiberal fare to any thing but miscalculation.

From the list of stores for the barque Flora, I might
easily make a selection which would convince any one
acquainted with the subject, that the most economical
calculations were made in fitting out this ship with
twenty passengers for a voyage of five months, or at
best, that extremely inadequate views of human wants
were entertained. The closeness manifested in the supply
of some of the items, would appear ludicrous to any
one, unless like ourselves, he had to bear the consequen-

STORES OF THE FLORA. 339

ces. In our table furniture, no allowance was made for
breakage, a very natural occurrence, particularly at sea,
and hence we find ourselves reduced to three tumblers
out of the dozen put on board. During our passage
from Honolulu to Tahiti, our table exhibited itself to far
greater advantage than it has done at any subsequent
time. Even then, the rigid economy with which our
viands were prepared, would have amused one accus-
tomed to any degree of liberality. For the passengers,
upon all occasions, swept off every thing from the dishes,
so that not a fragment should be left. As an instance
of the inadequate supply of provisions for so long a
voyage, I will mention, that two barrels of flour were
consumed during our passage of thirty eight days, which
constituted two fifths of all we had on board, for a voy-
age of five months. Although our provisions were more
varied and better prepared than they were aboard the
North America, yet in that good old ship, our food was
always wholesome, and in abundance, so that we always
left a few specimens of what was brought upon the table.
At Tahiti, two barrels of flour were added to what
remained ; a most ample allowance one would suppose,
judging from past experience. I forbear mentioning
the proportionate relations of the articles on the table to
the demands of the passengers. All the steward's calcu-
lations were carried on by the rules of Reduction
descending^ of which he exhibited a most profound
knowledge. Our meagre amount of butter was entirely
exhausted before we had doubled Cape Horn, and for
more than two months we have been compelled to make
molasses our substitute, of which, it ought to be regarded
as a matter of rejoicing, we have an abundant supply, as
the ship is freighted with it. Our Sandwich Islanders
have proved themselves to be Yankees, in one important

340 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

particular, long before they have reached the shores of
New England. The condition of our stores may be
inferred from the fact, that for several days we have
subsisted upon "salt junk, and hard tack,"* with beans
for variety at regular intervals ; rather disheartening fare
to those that are invalids, as is the case with one or two
of the passengers.

After doubling the Cape, the necessity of replenishing
our stores became more and more apparent every day.
The passengers, in frequent consultations with one
another, in private, came to the resolution of sending a
petition to Captain Spring, to run for some port, where
provisions might be obtained. The resolution was carried
into effect, and a manifesto containing a representation
of the exhausted state of our stores and its effect upon
the health of the passengers, and subscribed by the sig-
natures of all the gentlemen, was laid before the captain.
This step had however, been anticipated by Captain S.>
who requested the oldest of the passengers to draw up a
manifesto, which, bearing the signatures of all the gentle-
men, would shield him from blame in the event of any
disaster happening to the ship by deviating from the
course prescribed by her policy of insurance ; for a policy
of insurance is always vitiated by a ship in going out of
the course specified by the terms of the agreement,
unless compelled to do so by some providential occur-
rence, that could not have been anticipated.

After receiving this manifesto, Captain S. determined
to put in at Pernambuco, a town upon the coast not far
from Cape St. Roque, the most eastern extremity of South
America, to procure a supply of provisions. For a few
days past, we have had a very good run, and are now
within three or four hundred miles of our destined port.

* Salt meat and sea- bread.

LAND HO! 341

Friday ) January 1, 1841. Land ho ! At four bells in
the forenoon watch, the dim outline of the coast of
South America, was just discernible through the gloom
resting upon it, the first sight of terra-firma that has
greeted our eyes since leaving Tahiti, a period of three
months. If those that have been at sea but thirty days,
while crossing the Atlantic, a distance of only three
thousand miles, and faring most sumptuously all the time
aboard those splendid packet ships, congratulate them-
selves upon the view of something more substantial than
the ever heaving waters around, we, that for thrice that
period, have been traversing stormy seas, and encountered
every vicissitude of weather, while experimenting in the
short allowance system, have a legitimate claim to exhibit
more than ordinary demonstrations of rejoicing at the
sight of mother earth. The children upon this occasion,
came out with an entirely new set of gymnastics, and ran
round the deck testifying to their joy by very expressive
vociferations of delight. In about a couple of hours, we
ran in to the anchorage off Pernambuco, where were
three or four vessels lying at anchor in the open road-
stead outside the harbor, about two miles from the town.
One of these is the " Nantucket," of Nantucket, a whaler,
bound home full of oil. By comparing our respective
tracks, after doubling Cape Horn, we find that we were
not alone in bad luck. Between the parallels of latitude
27° and 24° south, the Nantucket was detained for thirty
six days by head winds, whereas the Flora made her
escape from that spell bound region in thirty days. This
is certainly some consolation for past misfortunes, for

u Misery still delights to trace
Its semblance in another's case."

Pernambuco lies in about 8° south latitude, upon the
most eastern extremity of Brazil, within two or three

29*

342 THE SOUTH ATLANTIC.

days sail of Cape St. Roque. From its situation not far
from the track of ships bound around the two capes, it is
a place of very frequent resort for procuring supplies ;
and not only this, but its commercial importance is
rapidly increasing. The harbor is formed by a coral
reef extending in front of the town, which completely
protects the shipping inside, from the fury of the sea,
which accumulating before the constant trade winds,
thunders upon this natural breakwater, rolling up its
surges, and falling in a sheet of pure foam into the quiet
waters of the bay. By the assistance of art, the reef
assumes the appearance of a perpendicular wall towards
the city, rising eight or ten feet above the surface of the
harbor. The bay thus formed, is very similar to that of
Papeete, although much more regular in its outline. The
entrance is at the right hand side of the reef, and the bay
runs along parallel to it, upon the extremity of which,
near the entrance, stands a fine lighthouse, built up from
a solid foundation of stone work, that rises to the height
of twenty feet or more, of an octagonal figure. It is a
variegated light, as it is called, that is, the light assumes
different colors, at regular intervals of every few moments.
At one time, it is of a dull crimson hue ; then increasing
rapidly in intensity, it shoots up into a most vivid glowing
red, when it gradually wanes, until it disappears. Again
it makes its appearance, but with a totally different
aspect; with a green hue, it is seen slowly emerging
from the surrounding darkness, until with a sickly gleam
it spreads across the waters, and then in turn gives place
to a golden yellow. These are the only colors displayed
at present, although there were two or three more exhib-
ited at the first establishment of the lighthouse, which
are now disused from their deficiency in vividness.
The appearance of the city is rather prepossessing as

PERNAMBUCO. 343

seen from our anchorage. The whitewashed houses
and spires of the numerous churches stand out in bold
relief from the verdure of the adjacent country, which
though low, is gently undulating, with groves of cocoa-
nut trees extending in dense array along the coast. In
all Portuguese places, ships are exposed to numerous
petty vexations from the officers of the custom house, and
of the health office. We were very doubtful, on our
passage to Pernambuco, whether we should be allowed
to land at all, as we had obtained no bill of health from
Papeete, the last port we visited. "A clean bill of
health," as it is called, is a certificate from one of our
consuls, that the ship is entirely free from any contagious
diseases, upon her leaving the port from which it is pro-
cured; this certificate is always respected, and usually
insures a ship somewhat greater facilities in communica-
ting with any port where she may arrive.

Soon after coming to anchor, Captain S. rowed into
the harbor, to ascertain whether we should be allowed
to go ashore. Upon entering the harbor, he was obliged
to go alongside of three Brazilian men-of-war in succes-
sion, so that each one of them might have the agreeable
privilege of exhibiting his authority before the strangers.
We were very glad to find upon his return to the
ship, that he had been successful in his application, and
that the gentlemen would have an opportunity of visiting
the city upon the next day.

CHAPTER XXIX.

PERNAMBUCO.

Katamarans — Churches — Splendor — Appearance of the popu-
lation — Architecture — Fireworks — Supplies purchased —
Cross the equator.

Saturday, January 2. This morning-, after some
delay, we started from our floating home, to refresh our-
selves with a ramble on shore, prepared for all the sights
and sounds that might present themselves in a strange
city. Our progress in the boat was slow and tedious
enough, as may be easily imagined, when we consider
that our craft was a little egg-shell of a thing, two feet
too short for a ship of three hundred tons, and laden
down to the water's edge, which threatened her with the
danger of being swamped every moment, as there was
a heavy swell heaving in towards the land, and espe-
cially, as we had a long line of large water casks towing
after us. Our anticipations for the safety and condition
of our respective persons were therefore by no means of
a favorable character. We escaped however, without
any other misfortunes than being sprinkled with salt
water, and having the skirts of our coats, in one or two
instances, thoroughly saturated with brine by trailing
over the side of the boat, through the carelessness of their

KATAMARANS. 345

owners. Upon entering the harbor, we were astonished
at the quantity of shipping lying there. Over a hundred
sail of vessels from a great variety of nations, were
displaying their colors to the breeze. A steamboat, bear-
ing the Brazilian flag, lay at anchor in the bay. She
was built in England, and like all English steamers, is a
black heavy looking structure.

On the side of the bay opposite the entrance, is a wide
beach, upon which great numbers of katamara?is, or
fishermen's craft, were hauled up. The singular form
of these frail structures — for they can hardly be called
boats — claims a particular notice. They consist of sever-
al logs of light wood, varying in numbers, from three to
six or seven and from fifteen to twenty five feet in length,
bound securely together by wooden bolts passing through
them. Upon the upper side there is a strong frame work
fixed amid-ships, which holds a box to contain any fish
that may be captured, and also serves to keep the voy-
agers from rolling off. A triangular sail of great dimen-
sions, and the broad steering oar, complete the tout en-
semble of these fantastic specimens of naval architec-
ture, in which the hardy fishermen dash over the ocean
wave, with the foam and spray hiding their craft from
view, so that but occasional glimpses of her are seen as
she rises upon the crests of the billows, while " all hands "
are standing up on the weather side, with the water up
to their knees, and grasping the frame work to prevent
their being washed overboard in the plunging of the
katamaran. These frail craft are often seen stretching
out to sea beyond the sight of land, and working to
windward with astonishing velocity.

Just back of the beach, commences a line of buildings,
which following the curvature of the shore, extends to
the public quays, about which lie the principal part of

346 PERNAMBUCO

3 by a

the shipping. We were met at the landing place by
gentleman connected with an American mercantile
house in the city, who conducted us to his office. After
attending to the putting up of our private stores— of
which, warned by past experience, we had determined
to have enough — we were invited to take breakfast in an
upper room, where we sat down in delightful bachelor
style to a glorious breakfast of steaks, ham and potatoes,
spread out in a style of profusion to which our eyes had
long been strangers. We had carte blanche given us to
call for any thing we wished, which we were not dila-
tory in availing ourselves of, and kept the Portuguese
servant circulating between the kitchen and the dining
room, with a frequency and earnestness that was a mat-
ter of astonishment to him ; for we recollected that before
the day was over, we should be obliged to return to the
Flora, and each one applied to himself the injunction
of the poet "take the good the gods provide thee," with
a becoming sense of his individual responsibility. Indeed,
we left no room for the regret expressed by Stephen
Burroughs, when nearly famished in jail — "that he had
not eaten more when he had the opportunity."

After breakfast, we visited a church in the immediate
vicinity. In all Roman Catholic countries, this season
of the year, commencing with Christmas and extending
along for several weeks, is devoted to rejoicings of every
kind. The churches during the whole time, are thrown
open, masses are performed with great frequency, and a
general holiday is proclaimed among all classes. There
are several large churches in Pernambuco, two or three
of which were visited during our ramble. In the first
one we entered, public mass was in performance, which
we mistook at first, for the rehearsal of some military
band, from the martial sounds issuing from the edifice.

CHURCHES. 347

The interior of this church — the finest in some respects
of any in Pernambuco, presented a splendor and glare of
ornament that was highly imposing. In common with
all the churches we examined, it is arranged in the form
of a cross, at the upper end of which, is an image of the
Savior, hanging upon the cross, with the utmost agony
depicted in the expression of his countenance, and in the
contortions of his body, and with streams of blood gush-
ing from his hands and his side, a representation that
can not but affect the sympathies of every worshipper.
The ceiling above the cross is carved and gilded in the
most elaborate and costly manner, and in this recess are
some fine scriptural paintings. Besides the image of the
Savior, there are six or eight images of saints fixed in
niches in the walls, with paintings illustrating scenes in
the lives of these holy personages. The Host, which is
carried about the streets on great occasions, escorted by
a procession of priests, is about twenty feet in height, and
is covered over with glittering tapestry of velvet and
tinsel. The vestibule and the aisle leading up to the
altar, are paved in Mosaic, and the latter is defended by
heavy balustrades upon each side. There are no pews
in these churches as in ours, and the only provision for
seats, consists in a range of mahogany chairs upon each
side of the aisle adjoining the balustrades. A number of
priests, dressed in their sacerdotal robes, consisting of a
light tunic of white gauze worn over a black gown, were
performing the ceremonies of mass, which were, of course,
all pantomime to us. The orchestra was ranged along
on the right hand side of the church near the altar, and
numbered thirty or forty musicians, whose martial
instruments uniting in a full burst of harmony, re-echoed
with grand effect from the lofty ceiling. There is some-
thing extremely imposing in the ceremonies of the Roman

348 PERNAMBUCO.

Catholic church, and it is not wonderful that this religion,
by the pomp and glitter of its devotional exercises, and
by the charms of noble music, whose solemn strains thrill
through every feeling of the worshipper, is so firmly riv-
eted upon those countries where it holds its sway.

In viewing the splendor of this church, the principal
objects that attracted our attention, were the immense
number of waxen candles, that were kept constantly burn-
ing before the cross of the Savior, the images of the saints,
and the Host, which were supported in massive silver
candlesticks. There could not have been less than sev-
enty or eighty of the smaller size, weighing, upon a gen-
eral average, not far from thirty pounds. Besides these,
there were eight or ten of an immense size, four feet or
more in height, surrounding the Host. Respecting the
value of these costly utensils, we — Yankee like— were
making some calculations, as the religious ceremonies
were proceeding. Thirty pounds of silver — the suppos-
ed weight of the smaller size — are worth about four hun-
dred and fifty dollars ; and as there were as many as sev-
enty of them in all, their aggregate value could not be
less than thirty-one thousand five hundred dollars. Of
the larger size, one would probably be equal in weight to
five of the smaller. Allowing that there were eight
of these, their aggregate value would be nearly
eighteen thousand dollars; so that the silver candlesticks
alone, in this church, are worth about forty-nine thou-
sand five hundred dollars. If the value of the other sil-
ver utensils that come into service during the complica-
ted ceremonies, which are, undoubtedly, of a correspond-
ing richness of material, is annexed to the sum computed
above, the calculation swells to an immense amount.
And when it is recollected that this is but one of the ma-
ny churches in this city, all of which are furnished in a

RELIGIOUS VENERATION. 349

somewhat similar style of magnificence, astonishment
must succeed the calculation of the vast sums lavished
upon them. While examining: the magnificence of these
palaces of superstition, it seemed strange to me, that we,
who believe in a purer faith, which awakens the religious
sensibilities by a direct appeal to the words of truth, in-
stead of paralyzing them by unmeaning rites, by repres-
sing the scriptures, and tolerating the most gross immor-
alities, should ever suffer our religion to languish for
want of suitable funds to enable it to carry on its opera-
tions, and make such illiberal provision, as is too frequent-
ly the case, for those who minister at its sacred ordinan-
ces. Previous to entering the church, we were caution-
ed to take off our hats, before crossing the threshold of
the outer door, and not to replace them until we had
passed entirely out of the house ; otherwise we might be
treated with rudeness. When I saw the scrupulous care
manifested by those that entered the church in the remo-
val of their hats, and in putting them on again in leav-
ing, I must confess that the veneration for their church
thus exhibited, had a far better appearance than the ill-
mannered custom — to call it by its least objectionable ep-
ithet— that obtains very generally in the United States,
of wearing: our hats sometime after entering the church,
and of putting them on again, almost as soon as we have
risen from our seats. There are other considerations, in
which an imitation of the Roman Catholics would be at-
tended with advantage. They have connections with
the faculty of reverence, in which my countrymen are
said by phrenologists to be deficient. Their constant
habit of deep reverence for their church, guards them
against expressions of disrespect to her observances.
We have far less veneration for the sacredness of a place
consecrated to the offices of religion, as such, than the

30

350 PERNAMBUCO.

Roman Catholics have for their places of worship, and
scenes are occurring in our churches, which a Roman
Catholic would look upon with indignation, as a profa-
nation of his sanctuary. That high degree of respect
for those who are devoted to the offices of religion which
the Roman Catholic entertains, is far less prevalent with
us. While we speak with the utmost freedom and not
unfrequently with disrespect of those whose sacred office,
if nothing else, should teach us to revere them, the Ro-
man Catholic would shrink from the sin of calumniating
his priest.

After spending half an hour or more in this church,
we took a walk around the city commenting upon the
appearance of the population, as we saw it represented in
the well dressed gentleman who passed us with an im-
portant air down to the grovelling slave, whose vacant
look seemed almost to indicate, that " his race is a con-
necting link between man and the inferior order of ani-
mals," as is sometimes asserted. The free part of the
population were very well dressed, and gentlemen in
passing one another, raised their hats in the most grace-
ful manner, which it would be well for Americans to im-
itate, as a substitute for the careless nod or the cold
" How are you V\ the customary salutation of acquaintan-
ces in the streets. We saw numerous soldiers in the
streets, either standing guard at the corners or before
public buildings, or promenading like ourselves, which
indicated very forcibly that we were in the domains of
despotism. They are well dressed and finely formed
young men, though rather small, and what would sur-
prise us, who, with all our benevolence, maintain the
strongest antipathies to our fellow men, are of all shades
of color, from white down to the dark, wooly race of Af-
rica, and were to be seen walking arm-in-arm in every

THE POPULATION. 351

direction, unconscious apparently, of any difference.
Gentlemen of the ebony race received the salutations of
the whites in exchange for their own, and I could not
but feel a sincere pity for the people of color in my own
country, who are doomed to an inferior condition in life,
by the deeply fixed prejudices of society. As to the
genuine African, whose infancy was nurtured amid the
hot sands of the opposite continent, and who was brought
hither in the hold of the slave ship, there seems to be
very little hope for him. He is the most abject specimen
of the human race I ever saw, but perhaps, is not more
unpromising in appearance, than negro slaves, wherever
they are found. The men that were not engaged in
active exercise, in transporting merchandize, or in other
laborious occupations, were employed in braiding straw
for the manufacture of hats. Whenever there are sever-
al of them engaged in removing a heavy article of mer-
chandize upon their shoulders, they keep step by a mon-
otonous grunt, "Hu, hu, hu-e !" in a similar style with
that which obtains among the islanders of the Pacific.
The women are the most revolting specimens of the
fairer portion of creation I have as yet had the felicity of
beholding. Their principal employment in the streets,
appeared to be in carrying burdens upon their heads,
which are protected by little pads resting upon their
craniums. In this, they are very expert, balancing
whatever they carry with remarkable precision, so that
they move about with the utmost nonchalance, talking
and laughing all the time, without disturbing their equi-
librium. At other times they are occupied in sell-
ing fruits and vegetables near the corners of the
streets, for there are no houses in this city appropriated
to markets. The population of Pernambuco is not far
from seventy thousand, of which nearly two thirds are

352 PERNAMBUCO.

slaves, a state of things not more deplorable than what
obtains in some sections of our country. The importa-
tion of slaves is prohibited by the government, yet thou-
sands are annually smuggled in by the connivance of
underlings in office.

•• In our ramble, we passed over two fine bridges, cross-
ing a small river which empties into the bay, and extended
our walk as far as the suburbs of the city, stopping fre-
quently to admire the delightful residences of gentlemen
of wealth, which are surrounded by ample grounds,
crossed by elegant terraces and ornamented with lovely
parterres. The country in the rear of the city, is highly
verdant, varied here and there with rich meads, which
are overshadowed by the dense dark foliage of the tall
and wide spreading mango, the graceful palm, and other
noble trees of the country. The mango is a variety of
fruit about the size of one's fist, resembling in shape the
fruit of the egg plant we have in the United States.
When the thick rind is torn off, a rich golden yellow
fruit is disclosed, of a fibrous nature, somewhat like that
of a cling-stone peach, enveloping a large white pit of an
oval form, two inches perhaps, in length, to which the
pulp adheres with great tenacity. The flavor of the
mango, is that of the pine-apple thoroughly impregnated
with spruce.

Brazil produces all the fruits of the tropics in the
highest degree of luxuriance, and besides these, coffee is
cultivated very extensively, so that the immense amount
of one hundred and thirty-five million pounds is an-
nually exported from this Empire, which is nearly one
half of all that is consumed throughout the world.

About five o'clock P. M , we started out for the ship
in a clumsy Portuguese boat, and were entertained for
more than an hour, during our slow and tedious passage

FIRE-WORKS. 353

by the ceaseless chattering of the negroes who rowed
the boat. We were obliged to pay six dollars for
the hire of this boat, which is a good illustration of the
exorbitant charges for every thing we purchased at Per-
nambuco. A ship could be provided with supplies at
the Sandwich Islands at a far cheaper rate than at this
city, although they are six times as far removed from
communication with the great commercial nations.

We found the ladies anxiously awaiting our arrival,
and lamenting over the gloomy uncomfortable time that
had passed during our absence, and which they were
pleased to say, our return had tended to enliven, a state
of affairs highly flattering to our vanity, although benev-
olence and courtesy prompted us to express the desire
that our welcome had been suggested by other causes.
We were careful to reciprocate such compliments, by
assuring them, how often, during our delightful excur-
sion, we regretted the necessity of their remaining aboard
the ship, and of their being denied the pleasure of a stroll
upon terra firma.

Sunday, January 3. We had anticipated going
ashore this morning, to witness the ceremonies of grand
mass, which we understood were to be celebrated with
unusual magnificence, but the danger of the ship being
obliged to get under way, and stand out to sea, in case
our ground tackling should give out, detained ns aboard
the Flora. This evening, at intervals of every few min-
utes, rockets are seen shooting upward from the city
with their fiery trains, and exploding in brilliant scintil-
lations. The fire- works, we were told, were to be on the
grandest scale, exhibiting almost every variety of pyro-
technics, a display not very well comporting with our
ideas of the proper observance of the sabbath, and not
very well calculated to inspire devotional feelings in the

30»

354 PERNAMBUCO.

spectators. A religion whose rites consist in a great
degree of holidays and amusements cannot but be accep-
table to human nature.

Thursday, January 7. On Monday last, we left our
anchorage off Pernambuco, and with a fine fresh breeze,
that swelled our sails, the shores of South America soon
receded from view. Before long we were again upon
the open ocean, and as sail after sail was distended to
the breeze, that was speeding us on our course, the old
ship seemed to wing her way, with renewed life, towards
our dear native land.

The supplies purchased for the ship were on a tolera-
bly liberal scale ; as far as regards the cost of them, we
ought most certainly to be satisfied. Owing to the ex-
orbitant charges for every thing, a sum rather more than
three hundred dollars was expended for articles, whose
reasonable value could not exceed two thirds of this
amount. Our potatoes, of which v/e had but the meagre
supply often bushels for a voyage, ordinarily of thirty or
thirty-five days, were found to be disappearing with the
most alarming rapidity, when it was ascertained that they
had been invaded by the huge rats, that throng in
immense numbers the old Flora, and are heard racing
about among the timbers, squealing and making
all sorts of noises to disturb our rest at night. While
we were at Tahiti, Captain Hall and myself had cut a
great number of elegant orange wood canes, which were
intended for presents to our friends at home. After we
had been out at sea for about a month, the captain drew
his canes out of the locker in the back of his state-room,
when great was his astonishment and chagrin, to find
that these beautiful sticks had been completely stripped
of their bark by these voracious vermin. While the
oranges I purchased at Tahiti lasted. I was accustomed

CROSS THE EaUATpR. 355

to look them over every morning, to throw away what
remained of those whose contents had been purloined
daring the night.

We crossed the equator this evening in longitude 37°
5(K west, making the tenth time I have crossed it since
leaving the United States. The children were all stim-
ulated with the prospect of seeing the line, which how-
ever, was not apparent to the unassisted vision, but
through the spy-glass, it was represented in a broad
distinct band crossing the field of view, which may be
readily accounted for, by supposing a string to be drawn
across one of the lenses of the instrument.

Monday, January 11. We ran across the equator
with a fine breeze, and were anticipating a most disa-
greeable time in the latitude of calms and rain, but our
expectations have been most agreeably disappointed. On
Friday night last, the wind hauled round to the north-
east in a heavy squall, and has continued to blow from
that quarter ever since ; so that we left the south-east
trade winds, to resume the north-east, without any disa-
greeable intermission of squalls, deluging rain, with
thunder and lightning, rendered the more intolerable by
the suffocating heat below. This evening, we caught
the glimmer of the north star in the mist that invests
the horizon, after having lost sight, for so long a time
of his friendly ray that looks mildly down upon our
dear homes in New England. Several evenings since,
we recognized the Great Bear, elevating his starry
dipper above the dark waters, telling us that our wan-
derings upon the ocean were drawing towards their
close.

CHAPTER XXX.

HOME.

Bathing— Sailor's fare — Cape Hatteras— " Land ho !" — Anchor
at Sandy Hook.

Thursday, January 21. Since leaving Pernambuco,
we have had a very fine run, with a strong breeze all the
time, and frequently more than would admit of our car-
rying studding sails. To-day we passed out of the
tropic of Cancer in the longitude of the Bermuda islands.

Not long after doubling Cape Horn, the passengers
adopted a course of frequent bathing, as soon as the tem-
perature of the air and water would admit of it, which
has been pronounced by all, to be attended with very
beneficial effect upon the health. For the ladies, a large
tub, which was secured by a sail supported on a frame,
answered the purpose of a bath room. This arrange-
ment would do very well for one person, but I did not
much envy the seventh or eighth in the series. The
gentlemen preferred the evening, and at half past nine
or ten o'clock, we followed one another upon deck. The
method we adopted had several advantages. Drawing
twelve or fifteen buckets of water from the ocean in suc-
cession with the draw bucket, we invert them over our
heads, giving ourselves the advantage of the exercise, as
well as the invigorating shock from a considerable body

BATHING. 357

of water ; we then return to our state-rooms, and rub
ourselves dry with coarse towels or canvass, which com-
pletes the process, and prepares us for most delightful
slumbers. We have pursued this course every night,
with scarcely any intermission, for two months past, and
there is nothing connected with sea life, I shall wish for
a return of so much, as the refreshing baths taken every
night. When feeling rather exhausted from the studies
and various occupations of the day, a pure cool saltwater
bath at ten or eleven o'clock at night, has a most aston-
ishingly reviving effect, and I attribute the excellent
health, I am now enjoying, to this most salutary practice.
When aboard the North America, I was in the habit of
carrying a basin of salt water into my state-room every
night, and of spunging myself thoroughly before retiring,
a practice accompanied with admirable effects. But
there is nothing of the kind equal to the application of
successive buckets of cool water to the person ; for a
shock and stimulus are given to the system, which are
extremely invigorating.

Friday, January 22. We are now within a fortnight's
sail of home, and as I soon expect to bid farewell to the
ocean, upon whose restless billows I have been tossed
incessantly for more than a year, and formed some
acquaintance with life on shipboard, it would not seem
an inappropriate finale, to make a connected sketch of
the habits and mode of life of the sailor at home in his
floating habitation ; but believing that they have been
portrayed in what precedes, as far as my opportunities
for observation would admit, this attempt would be but
repetition, and all that remains for me, is to complete
the brief outline, by bringing in what might have been
with more propriety perhaps, introduced into a former
page,

358 HOME.

The eating utensils, and the style in which the sailor
partakes of his " grub," are as barbarous as his other
accommodations. A tin cup, which serves for coffee cup,
tea cup and tumbler, an iron spoon and a tin plate form
his summary of eating utensils. An addition to these of
a knife and fork, in any instance, would imply luxurious
notions in the mind of the owner. The sheath knife,
which hangs at his side, is his inseparable companion,
and is devoted to a great variety of purposes. It is
indispensible, while he is at work upon the tarred and
M slushy" rigging; it assists him in his tailoring and shoe-
making — cuts his tobacco and carves his meat. The
style in which his meals are taken, is entirely primitive.
The kidj a small tub, which contains the dinner, is loca-
ted in the centre of the circle seated upon deck, and each
one helps himself out of it, without any scrupulous
notions about introducing his own knife and spoon ;
emphatically his own, for they are purchased out of his
own scanty wages, or he goes without. The fare of the
common sailor would be repugnant to the taste of any
landsman, were he to be confined to it exclusively for
month after month, as the sailor is obliged to be during
a long voyage. In the morning, a piece of salt beef or
pork with hard bread and coffee, is served out to him.
The term coffee, conveys a luxurious idea, which van-
ishes, however, when we are aware that it is not unfre-
quently made out of burnt peas, or at any rate, that it is
of the most inferior quality. Sometimes, for variety, a
preparation of hard bread and beef and pork is served
up, which with some slight variation, is known by the
elegant denominations of" lobscouse" and "lobdominion."
For dinner, he receives an allowance of potatoes, or some
other vegetables — if they are not already exhausted, with
his meat ; or in lieu of these, duff, rice or beans, which

THE LAND. 359

are well covered with molasses, answering to the acidu-
lous preserves that accompany our viands. For supper,
his tin cup full of tea sweetened with molasses, and a
plenty of salt beef or pork and hard bread constitute his
invariable bill of fare. The tea which sailors drink, is
not always the growth of the celestial empire. One
variety is said to flourish in North Carolina, and from
the huge sticks entangled with the herb, which rise upon
the surface of the fluid as they are successively disen-
gaged, receives the appellation of "studding-sail boom
tea," a very expressive soubriquet. It has nearly as
delicate a flavor as might be expected from a decoction
of mulien stalks.

Monday ', February 1. Cape Hatteras, opposite which
we crossed the Gulf Stream, like most high headlands,
is famous for sudden gusts of wind, called by seamen
" white squalls," that without any warning, strike a ship
in all their fury, and the first intimation the navigator
has of their presence, is indicated by the falling of the
spars over the side of the vessel. The region of the
ocean lying between the Bermuda Islands and this Cape,
is noted for its squally character, particularly the vicinity
of these islands, which was fully tested while I was in
the North America. Hence this admonitory distich is
treasured up in the mind of the mariner as he navigates
these seas :

" If Bermuda let you pass,
Then look out for Hatteras."

Wednesday, February 3. At daylight, this morning,
the low outline of the coast of the United States, was
seen stretching along to the westward of us, not more
than ten or twelve miles off. Though the patches of
snow, that were seen at frequent intervals along the coast,
indicated the season of the year, yet the general aspect

360 HOME,

of the country was less forbidding than I had anticipated.
Then too, the thought that I should soon be restored to
the circle of those I hold dear, and hear from them the
various occurrences that had taken place during our
Jong separation — not an inkling of which had gladdened
my heart for a year and a half — was so transporting, that
even the desolate shores of New Jersey, with their shorn
and melancholy forests, and the cold atmosphere of the
morning were far more delightful to me than the exube-
rant verdure and balmy air of the tropics, from which
we had not long since emerged. But a period of a year
and a half may have brought many sad changes, and
while I looked upon my native land growing more and
more distinct, with such emotions of delight, as the
returning voyager alone experiences, a feeling of deep
solicitude, that cast a shade over my fairest anticipations,
could not be repressed. In the evening we came to
anchor off Sandy Hook, in six months from the Sand-
wich Islands.

On Friday morning, 1 met with my brother in New
York ; but the enquiries that on ordinary occasions
would have been made with eagerness, were repressed
by sad forebodings, until, assured by his manner, I ven-
tured to make the enquiry "Are all well at home?" and
when it was answered in the affirmative, the solicitude
that brooded over me like an incubus, was instantly
suceeded by unspeakable emotions of joy and gratitude.

Courteous Reader ! Thou hast kindly accompanied
me in my wanderings, for forty thousand miles over the
mighty main. Our cruise is up, and as I am taking my
parting look of old ocean, if I have been favored with
thy sympathies and kindness, while voyaging with me,
believe me they are reciprocated, and permit me to
express the language of my heart — shipmate farewell !

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